 Poster: A snowHead
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Thanks to the amazing Richard_Sideways and his friend my daughter now has her first snowboard.
Can anybody help me with what the edge angles will be?
Googling has just confused me.
It is a Rossignol Diva.
The base angle I have seen suggestions this could be several things - my tool is good for 1 degree. So will need to get a new one?
The side edges google suggests 90 degree but then others say it could be up to 87? So anybody know what manufacturer angle would be?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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... popcorn question 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@rayscoops, really? Certainly not intended as such? I had expected to be able to get them of the manufacturers site but failed so far?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@NickyJ, I will be genuinely interested in the replies
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Why not just set them to what you want?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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1 ish and 1 ish
Shouldn’t really need to do the base unless it’s had a grind.
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It's actually probably at 90 at the moment, and maybe best leave that until E is more confident on the board. You can take it to 89 (or less) if you want more bite on hard snow.
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@Richard_Sideways, thanks!
@hang11, they clearly encountered something hard so I had intended to ensure I smoothed over before fill the couple of little holes in the base, then waxed.
Overall it is in amazing condition. Just, I guess, looking at it with the same eye I would put on skis.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| Layne wrote: |
Base angle don't change them.
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Trying desperately not to, hence the question. Ski’s are 1 degree. My google seemed to indicate boards may be different?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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and then you de-tune the edges ... just a little bit and just in a small location ... or maybe not for some? 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I always set my boards to 1 on the base, and afaik most boards are factory set to that, but somebody may come along with a better answer. I would be careful with base edges if they are just scuffed up. The edge needs to be level to the base, so removing edge on the base isn’t a good idea, angles only really need to be set after a base grind, just clean up the rough bits with a stone. Sharpen edges from the side. I always do mine at 1 or 2 depending on the board, but more is fine if that’s your thing.
I do all my own tuning, but I’m no expert, so take my advice with a pinch of salt.
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| hang11 wrote: |
I always set my boards to 1 on the base, and afaik most boards are factory set to that, but somebody may come along with a better answer. I would be careful with base edges if they are just scuffed up. The edge needs to be level to the base, so removing edge on the base isn’t a good idea, angles only really need to be set after a base grind, just clean up the rough bits with a stone. Sharpen edges from the side. I always do mine at 1 or 2 depending on the board, but more is fine if that’s your thing.
I do all my own tuning, but I’m no expert, so take my advice with a pinch of salt. |
Thanks! Yes that was all I was going to be doing but as I use the guide to do that, was worried if it was the wrong angle
This is reassuring to read
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You know it makes sense.
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I had the Rossi Jibsaw which is the men's version, it's very forgiving so you don't need to worry about detuning the contact points. I think you would have a bit of a problem getting a consistent edge angle through the magnetraction, my board had a particularly stiff centre camber and was difficult to engage on ice anyway. Very nimble board and good fun.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| Layne wrote: |
Base angle don't change them.
| NickyJ wrote: |
| Trying desperately not to, hence the question. Ski’s are 1 degree. My google seemed to indicate boards may be different? |
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Don't see why. The same principle's apply afaik.
With no angle on the base it would engage instantly which by and large (slalom racers excepted) you don't want. A one degree is enough to make the ski/board ride more predictably but still very responsive.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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edge angle theory hasn’t quite caught up with board geometry ... on a bang average camber board it may have been a little bit important (try running a stiff 163 fast & flat on a cat track with 90 deg sharp edges) ... but it’s amazing now what a bit of rocker, asymmetric shape and magnaT gives you 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@rayscoops, Absolutely. We run our Bataleon Triple Base boards at 0, 90. Edge catches - what are they?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@NickyJ, if you have a 1 degree base edge file holder run some black felt tip pen over the edges then run a stone/file (in the guide) over the edge then if it all comes of nicely then you have 1 degree.
Side edge, with boards these are variable, if its a brand new board, then do the felt tip test with your side edge angel holder, to see if its 1 (89) 2 ( 88 ) 3 ( 87), or just decide what angle you want to have.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| Layne wrote: |
| ... With no angle on the base it would engage instantly which by and large (slalom racers excepted) you don't want. A one degree is enough to make the ski/board ride more predictably but still very responsive. |
Yeah but you don't actually need to be in a race in order to want race performance. That explains my car and my Kessler SL and a few other toys.
Whatever, I think you should tune boards the way the designer intended, which for Kessler is 0.5 base and 3 side.
For powder boards I don't care as I don't ride them if there's any danger of needing to use the edge.
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Thanks all. Going with my 1 degree base tool and using 90degree for edge angle, seems to have gone fine.
Done some little p-tex fills where a couple of sinks on the edges. Board is now cooling after applying reconditioning wax.
Thanks for all the help
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Most average recreational riders wouldn't 'feel' the difference between 88 / 89 / 90 ...... apart from when the lesser grabs and slams 'em
One and one usually ends up as the default due to servicing
| rayscoops wrote: |
| and then you de-tune the edges ... just a little bit and just in a small location ... or maybe not for some? |
Quite, and far more important than a degree or so
I roll them off a lot, and over a longer 'location' ....... I guess it's an old guy thing ......
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| BCjohnny wrote: |
Most average recreational riders wouldn't 'feel' the difference between 88 / 89 / 90 ...... apart from when the lesser grabs and slams 'em
One and one usually ends up as the default due to servicing
| rayscoops wrote: |
| and then you de-tune the edges ... just a little bit and just in a small location ... or maybe not for some? |
Quite, and far more important than a degree or so
I roll them off a lot, and over a longer 'location' ....... I guess it's an old guy thing ...... |
I bought a Jones Hovercraft a couple of years ago. "Nose and tail detuned from the factory" it said in the blurb. It was weirdly 'grabby' even when riding flat base you'd suddenly feel something engage and the board pull and slow. I took it into a shops service centre and they detuned the nose, saying it hadn't been done at all. Totally different board. I didn't realise what it was and how much difference it made.
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| rogg wrote: |
| BCjohnny wrote: |
Most average recreational riders wouldn't 'feel' the difference between 88 / 89 / 90 ...... apart from when the lesser grabs and slams 'em
One and one usually ends up as the default due to servicing
| rayscoops wrote: |
| and then you de-tune the edges ... just a little bit and just in a small location ... or maybe not for some? |
Quite, and far more important than a degree or so
I roll them off a lot, and over a longer 'location' ....... I guess it's an old guy thing ...... |
I bought a Jones Hovercraft a couple of years ago. "Nose and tail detuned from the factory" it said in the blurb. It was weirdly 'grabby' even when riding flat base you'd suddenly feel something engage and the board pull and slow. I took it into a shops service centre and they detuned the nose, saying it hadn't been done at all. Totally different board. I didn't realise what it was and how much difference it made. |
This sounds like something I may need to research further!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@BCjohnny, I generally just run my file down the edges to sharpen them so probably have different angles all the way down the board, sometimes though, just take a bit off the sharpness at the top and bottom.
However sometimes when I don’t detune, I really do feel the board catching the the front toe edge when riding on flattish ground (normally tracks) and wanting to turn when I do not want to turn - I would call it ‘twitchy’ and probably an issue for learners or intermediates not being able to react to adjust their center of gravity ... a face plant is the normal outcome 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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The 3D base on the newer hovercrafts definitely helps as well. Don’t feel the need to detune mine although only really ride it in new snow.
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Sorry ...... not been on here in a bit ......
By 'roll off' the edges I don't just mean knock the corner of, I mean put a proper rad on there .... basically almost the full quadrant
And pull it back a bit further into main radius than the 'experts' suggest ..... estimate the 'tangential point'* at each end and 'roll off' at least half an inch extra from there towards the waist ...... particularly the tail if the board still feels funky
When you buy a new board, it kinda seems a bit barbaric ...... just gotta be done
[*It's not, it's some kinda ellipsoid ....... french curve or something ..... or neither, who cares .......]
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You know it makes sense.
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As above, 1 & 1 will suit most people fine. I generally don't touch the base edges unless they're damaged.
I don't do much detuning. If I feel the nose gripping excessively on the first ride out, I might get slightly more aggressive, otherwise just a quick rub with a gummy stone to blunt them slightly.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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| alan1405 wrote: |
| .......nice to have edges not like a knife edge for the park or if learning ........ |
Exactly, always been an advocate of 'soft edges' for beginners
As regards the park, you have to roll them off a bit more ..... to the extent a dedicated park board essentially gets created
If you see someone slam over the back or front in the park, a sharp edge has grabbed a feature, or similar ....... aluminium angle edges are particularly lethal
Don't go much, but at the Dome last month they put out a box, just above the little jump ....... saw, and heard, several beauties, one girl got took off in the sled and off to hospital .....
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