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What do I need to use UK/EU 220-240V waxing iron/shaver in N America?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Leave for Canada next Friday.

I've got a 220-240V Dakine waxing iron with EU plug that I want to be able to use there (2 week trip), as well as shaver/beard trimmer with UK plug. I've had trimmers/shavers die in the US before because I didn't know you couldn't just plug them in like other electronics (eg. phone/laptop) through a regular adapter.

What do I need to stop them from blowing in Canada?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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You'll need a voltage converter of the correct rating if they are not dual voltage devices. For a wax iron that could be quite big.
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Actually just noticed that the waxing iron is 1000W which is ridiculous and would actually need a massive converter. I guess I'll have to keep my fingers crossed someone will have one to borrow over there. It's an instruction camp so hopefully so.
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@karansaraf, specifically you'll need a 110V to 220-240V step up transformer (or autotransformer) with sufficient power rating for your waxing iron. What is its power rating? Edit: I see you say it's 1000W, in which case as you say you'd need a big heavy (and expensive ) transformer.


Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Sun 19-01-20 19:11; edited 1 time in total
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Quote:

UK/EU 220-240V waxing iron/shaver

First thought was that's some multi-function device... Toofy Grin
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The waxing iron will work just fine - albeit a little slower than on 230V. You’ll need another plug or some sort of converter though. Dunno about the shaver.
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altis wrote:
The waxing iron will work just fine - albeit a little slower than on 230V.


Are you sure? At half the UK voltage the iron will produce just a quarter of its usual power, so the temperature it ultimately reaches could well be substantially less than normal...
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Alastair Pink wrote:
altis wrote:
The waxing iron will work just fine - albeit a little slower than on 230V.


Are you sure? At half the UK voltage the iron will produce just a quarter of its usual power, so the temperature it ultimately reaches could well be substantially less than normal...


It may take extra current though - depends how simple it is. If it does, keep an eye on the cable temp Very Happy
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Have you had a close look to see if it's got a small multi-voltage switch on it? Many devices do (including my own Demon model), worth a good look. Shocked
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1000W at 110v is under 10A, so a 13A UK cord will handle it just fine.

So, no need for converter , it should work fine, just a bit slower.
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@Alastair Pink, I’m absolutely certain it’ll work. My iron has a 500W/250W switch and works fine on either setting. That’s what the thermostat is for.

And I’ve never yet met an iron with a switch-mode PSU so it’s not going too draw more current either.


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Sun 19-01-20 21:57; edited 1 time in total
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I know a couple of people form doing ski seasons that used European 230V waxing iron in Canada. They worked fine just took longer to heat up.
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@karansaraf, ....where are you staying? I had the following conversation with a chalet in La Tania:

'I am coming next Saturday'
'OK'
'Do you have a waxing iron in the basement'
'yes'
'Can I use it please'
'yes'
'thank you'

worth trying
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
martinm wrote:
Alastair Pink wrote:
altis wrote:
The waxing iron will work just fine - albeit a little slower than on 230V.


Are you sure? At half the UK voltage the iron will produce just a quarter of its usual power, so the temperature it ultimately reaches could well be substantially less than normal...


It may take extra current though - depends how simple it is. If it does, keep an eye on the cable temp Very Happy


No, it will take half the current, Ohms law,
R=resistance in ohms of the heating element this stays constant unless there is a power switch eg 250/500w
V=voltage 240v or 120v
I = current in amps
P = power in watts
P = VI
I = V/R
First thought says that if V is halved then P is halved too? No, If R stays constant, if V is halved, I is halved too so if V=0.5 and I=0.5 then P=VI=0.25 so a 1000w/240v heating element will pull half the current and produce a quarter of the power at 120v

Where it gets exciting is when the N Americans plug their 120v equipment into 240v sockets Shocked Shocked Shocked
Laughing Laughing Laughing
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tangowaggon wrote:

It may take extra current though - depends how simple it is. If it does, keep an eye on the cable temp Very Happy


No, it will take half the current, Ohms law,
R=resistance in ohms of the heating element this stays constant unless there is a power switch eg 250/500w
V=voltage 240v or 120v
I = current in amps
P = power in watts
P = VI
I = V/R
[/quote]

Ah, but R increases massively as it heats up. Check the resistance of a lightbulb Very Happy

tangowaggon wrote:

First thought says that if V is halved then P is halved too? No, If R stays constant, if V is halved, I is halved too so if V=0.5 and I=0.5 then P=VI=0.25 so a 1000w/240v heating element will pull half the current and produce a quarter of the power at 120v


No, it will take the same power (assuming it's just a plain filament/element) so will need twice the current to do so. More or less!
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altis wrote:
My iron has a 500W/250W switch and works fine on either setting. That’s what the thermostat is for.

And I’ve never yet met an iron with a switch-mode PSU so it’s not going too draw more current either.


Not sure what a switched mode PSU has to do with it - if you half the voltage, you need to double the current to get the same power. The thermostat is to provide a more accurate temperature and a safety feature.
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Quote:

Ah, but R increases massively as it heats up. Check the resistance of a lightbulb


A very different case. A typical metallic heating element will only change resistance by a few percent between 0 and 300 degrees C.

Quote:

No, it will take the same power (assuming it's just a plain filament/element) so will need twice the current to do so. More or less!


I'd love to hear how a plain element is going to draw more current from a lower voltage. Do please explain.

Quote:

Not sure what a switched mode PSU has to do with it - if you half the voltage, you need to double the current to get the same power.


Exactly his point. If want to double the current for a simple resistive element you need some way of stepping up the voltage to drive more current through it.
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olderscot wrote:

A very different case. A typical metallic heating element will only change resistance by a few percent between 0 and 300 degrees C.

Fairy nuff.

olderscot wrote:
I'd love to hear how a plain element is going to draw more current from a lower voltage. Do please explain.

To get the same W.

olderscot wrote:

Exactly his point. If want to double the current for a simple resistive element you need some way of stepping up the voltage to drive more current through it.


Not sure about that.

I'm genuinely interested, got any links that aren't quite as sarcastic as your comments that explain it?
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A heating element is just a resistive element that has been selected to generate a certain amount of heat at a defined voltage using P=VI. So for example, if you want 500W at 250V you'd select one that would draw 2 amps at 250V which would be 125 Ohm, as V=IR and 250 = 2 x 125.

In a nutshell that's it. You now have a heating element of 125 Ohm. It will draw 2 amps at 250V and generate 500W. If you only give it 110V it's still a 125 Ohm resistance so will draw less current, in this case 0.88A, generating just 96.8W again using P=VI.
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olderscot wrote:
A heating element is just a resistive element that has been selected to generate a certain amount of heat at a defined voltage using P=VI. So for example, if you want 500W at 250V you'd select one that would draw 2 amps at 250V which would be 125 Ohm, as V=IR and 250 = 2 x 125.

In a nutshell that's it. You now have a heating element of 125 Ohm. It will draw 2 amps at 250V and generate 500W. If you only give it 110V it's still a 125 Ohm resistance so will draw less current, in this case 0.88A, generating just 96.8W again using P=VI.


Ta. So the important factor is that the element doesn't really change it's resistance as it heats?
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olderscot wrote:
A heating element is just a resistive element that has been selected to generate a certain amount of heat at a defined voltage using P=VI. So for example, if you want 500W at 250V you'd select one that would draw 2 amps at 250V which would be 125 Ohm, as V=IR and 250 = 2 x 125.

In a nutshell that's it. You now have a heating element of 125 Ohm. It will draw 2 amps at 250V and generate 500W. If you only give it 110V it's still a 125 Ohm resistance so will draw less current, in this case 0.88A, generating just 96.8W again using P=VI.


+1
A 1000w @ 240v element would have a resisance of 57 ohms, to get an element to produce 1000w of heat @ 120v, you would have to use an element with just 14.4 ohms
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Quote:
Ta. So the important factor is that the element doesn't really change it's resistance as it heats?


That's one of the factors, yes. But even if it did it would always draw less current and generate less power at 110V than at 220-240V.

The important factor is that for a resistive element V=IR. So if you keep R the same then the current drops with the voltage. The heating element has no way of knowing you want a certain power out of it and no way of changing it's resistance to try and increase the current if the voltage drops.

It's only 500W at 250V.
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@olderscot, PTC element increases resistance exponentially until it aproaches the target temperature where it becomes an insulator. So it it's perfectly possible (depending on it's specs) for it to draw double the current in the beginning to compensate the lower voltage
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Quote:


@olderscot, PTC element increases resistance exponentially until it aproaches the target temperature where it becomes an insulator. So it it's perfectly possible (depending on it's specs) for it to draw double the current in the beginning to compensate the lower voltage


Not quite. Even a PTC element will only draw half the current (for half the voltage) at a given temperature as it warms up. And many PTC elements are made using a thermistor to limit the current as it warms up so it's often akin to using a thermostat rather than a plain element on it's own.
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Buy a 110v wax iron out there! Your shaver is bound to be dual voltage, otherwise get a disposable razor and some shave gel or grow a beard!
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No need to shave on a ski vacation. Are you racing while in Canada? Who needs a ski iron on a ski trip? Use rub on wax and some elbow grease. Oh, and one more thing, the conditions should be pretty good when you get there. Enjoy!
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Half the voltage means half the current (I am ignoring resistance change with temperature ) so quarter the power. = 250 watts. Simples. May work but probably not in my opinion.

If you are desperate to wax your skis in Canada buy a cheapo non steaming clothes iron for less than equiv of £20 over there. That is what I use and it works well. No need for small production and hence more expensive poncy pukka jobs. Set the temperature with the just not smoking melting wax. Cheap enough to leave behind if luggage limits flying back.
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