 Poster: A snowHead
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I’ve got a bit carried away and managed to shear off a screw in my quiver killer ski mount. There only about 2-3mm of screw above the mount so not much to grab hold of.
Anyone got any ideas or tips on removal of the whole unit? I’ve heard about heating it with a soldering iron- anyone had any experience of it?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Cut a slot in the screw with dremmel or hacksaw blade and use a good quality straight bladed screwdriver to un-wind it. Tap the screwdriver in to seat it well and lean on it hard while turning to prevent the tip "camming " out under duress.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Google stud extractors, designed pretty much for that sort of thing.
You can actually also get a type of stud extractor (I have one) which has an eccentric cam and could probably grab 3mm of a bolt with a sheared head.
I've used both approaches in the past (not on stuff I broke - I have torque wrenches!).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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The engineers solution is as has been said a stud extractor , file the top of the broken screw flat , then center punch in the middle of the screw, drill down the center of the screw with the appropriate clearance bit for the extractor, mount the extractor in a tap holder and screw anti clockwise into the hole until the taper bites, increase pressure and unscrew the broken part. Or you could try Mole grips....not the engineers solution. 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Left handed drill bit?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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I wouldn't try a stud extractor. The screw is stainless so could work harden while you drill it. Plus if it's tight, small diameter extractors have a habit of breaking.
Mole grips might be worth an initial try and if that foesnt work easily, I'd go with Dremel and thin cutting disc then screw driver. The cutting heat should soften the locking compound. Shouldn't need much torque unless the reason it broke was you used too long a screw and bottomed out and as it broke under the head any thread distortion should be in the exposed section.
Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Wed 18-12-19 20:32; edited 1 time in total
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Agree a certain" feel" is needed when using any extractor and stainless can be a pain, and when it all goes pear shaped and you start contacting the guy with the spark erosion equipment and opening the Scotch bottle. 
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| adithorp wrote: |
| ......the reason it broke was you used too long a screw and bottomed out and as it broke under the head any thread distortion should be in the exposed section. |
The OP emailed me a pic of the screw and ^this + a power driver is the only way it could have happened. Wouldn't surprise me if danthemedic was an orthopaedic surgeon  . And he's tried mole grips to no avail.
@danthemedic, I've replied to your email. I've had to removed a number of inserts following peoples cock-ups but the method depends upon the tools you have and whether, if you remove the inserts from the ski, that you have the kit to install a new insert etc. If you give me a call I'll talk you through the options depending upon what kit you have. My number's on the contact page of my website and my phone's always on until late.
Or if you can get to me I'll have it out in a few minutes.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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If you can't get a grip with mole grips and the 'cut a screwdriver slot in the exposed screw' doesn't work then you'll need to removed the screw & inserts completely. You'll need a 5mm drill, a soldering iron and a 6mm left hand tap.
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@spyderjon, I read that as left handed tape, and thought it was one of those things you kept on the shelf with the striped paint and a long weight 
It’s getting late.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Plus the "Tin of elbow grease".
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| Scarlet wrote: |
@spyderjon, I read that as left handed tape, and thought it was one of those things you kept on the shelf with the striped paint and a long weight
It’s getting late. |
Scarlet, My logo'd packaging tape is actually left handed - by special order - I'll leave you to suss out the difference.
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@spyderjon, yebbut it’s got writing on so it can be the wrong way up. And iirc you are one of those left handed types so I assume it’s so you don’t label all your boxes upside down 
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You know it makes sense.
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Why does it matter which way up @spyderjon, is when he labels boxes?
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| spyderjon wrote: |
If you can't get a grip with mole grips and the 'cut a screwdriver slot in the exposed screw' doesn't work then you'll need to removed the screw & inserts completely. You'll need a 5mm drill, a soldering iron and a 6mm left hand tap.
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You tease! trying to work out what you'd be doing with that stuff
Drill out the screw?
Heat up the insert?
then use the tap to unscrew the insert from the ski?
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Poster: A snowHead
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(BTW - Jon sold me some quiverkiller gear and installation tools and I'm going to try to mount my first bindings over the Xmas hols so I'm reading this thread with precautionary interest!)
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@jedster I done my first DIY quiver killer the night before PSB (jon drilled pilot holes in rite place on EOSB with jig). Pretty straight forward but I originally bought the basic drill set with adjustable stop collar but upgraded to the professional drill which I think was a good move.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@WASHOUT, a stepped drill bit so you can't mess up with a slipping collar? Can't remember what I bought TBH and its all in the Alps. If I get the fear when I start then there is a ski shop over the road... I'm planning to drill out an offcut of wood to start. If I struggle getting those holes just right then I may take it across the road to someone with a proper drill press (if that is what they are called?).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@jedster, yep, that's the method. Drill out the screw in the insert and being a 5mm dia drill it also reomves the internal threads in the insert. Then stand the soldering iron in the insert for 15-20 seconds to soften the epoxy bond to the screw. Then use the LH 6mm tap to unscrew the insert (the 5mm drill is being correct tap drill size for the 6mm LH tap). The ski stays totally untouched and after a quick clean-up of the threads using the QK tap a new replacement insert can be epoxied in.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| spyderjon wrote: |
If you can't get a grip with mole grips and the 'cut a screwdriver slot in the exposed screw' doesn't work then you'll need to removed the screw & inserts completely. You'll need a 5mm drill, a soldering iron and a 6mm left hand tap.
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What sort of bloody idiot would need to use that...……………………...oh, wait.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@Mosha Marc, I was tempted to grass you up but somehow managed to resist.
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