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Grand Massif tips for first time visit

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi, we're a family of good intermediates going to GM for the first time this Feb (half term due to GCSEs and also Paris week - groan).

Staying at Morillon Les Esserts and driving. We DIY each year so have the travel blueprint sorted.

However with it being our first time here I was after any tips - great runs/not so great/must do/avoid etc. On the slopes and off (as in sledging more than après - kids are young teens).

Also, any 'bargain' restaurants for lunch. Know that that's a needle in an expensive haystack when it comes to skiing but I've been fleeced before (cheaper lunch in Espace Killy than cake and hot chocs in Les Saisies!).

Thanks
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Morillon 1100 (or Esserts) is quite a small contained area with a few restaurants, it’s quiet in the evenings. They are just installing a new Sairon lift from 1100 which will be a vast improvement for this Winter. The chair leads to Marvel a great green and the Sairon run a really good blue. Chalet d’Eclair at the top of the Sairon lift has a large terrace and does good food and great hot chocolate, it isn’t cheap thou… there is a good snack bar (outside seating only) that isn’t too pricey to the left of the Sairon run as you come into 1100 slightly higher up than the lift station which is good with lovely owners. Most of the good cruisy blues are over in Flaine from where you can do the 14km Cascades run down to Sixt. You’re best route to the rest of the GM and Flaine is via the Coulouvrier lift. To get to Coulouvrier avoid Paccoty it’s an extremely steep red and there is no get out, use the blue Chars instead although it does get chopped up. GM has tons to go at, enjoy!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
In order to avoid to ope a new Thema, i write my questions also here...
We intend to go to Grand Massif in the Week 31 Dec till 07. Jan
I know it is high season but with school kinder we do not have other options
Except that i bought two season card for the children, aiming to go in Jan and maybe the first or secont April Week
So my questions
1. Where exactly? Les Carroz or better Flaine? or somewhere else? and if Flaine where is the better poisition? Flaine 1700? 1600? 1500? is there any difference at all? I really dont know if the names are right...but so are in Travelski.
2. are there some option to eat outside with normal prices? and i dont mean for Restaurants...Pizzeria, Crepes etc are also perfect.

Please pay attention that better for us = easy access to ESF, Blue slopes etc...i suppose according to Faust1 , it is better for us up in Flaine...but is it important where exactly we will find our accommodation?
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I also thought Chalet d'Clair at top of Sairon lift was excellent. Prices seemed fair to me, but it was a few years ago and getting near to 1.4 euros to the pound made a big difference. The lasagne, chips and salad was about 14 euros, quite reasonable at that exchange rate, but it was very large and could easily be split between two if required.

Restaurant La Combe in Morillon 1100 was very nice for dinner - double height windows at the front gave it a nice feel and the food was good and well-priced. La Combe is alos good for lunch and you can ski right to it. We spent our time in the Madison pub which also acted as a restaurant and served good meals too - steak and chips, salads. It was French run and just the sort of place I hope for in a small resort, somewhere nice to have a few drinks and where people congregate in the evenings. It seems it might now be called 'Le Bar'.

We stayed there twice in a row, having also stayed at Les Carroz the year before. Whilst Les Carroz is a larger village with more going on, I think I prefer Morillon 1100 as it's got enough bars/restaurants to get on with, is quite attractive, and the access to the skiing makes for an easy time.

The ski area is great, in my opinion. Perfect for your level of skiing. Everything seems good to me. As someone else has mentioned, the new Sairon lift should help at peak times. Also, the old 'Lanches' chairlift seems to be a thing of the past and access into the rest of the lift system is now probably much easier, much quicker, and less prone to queues than when we were there.

Overall, I thought it was a great place to go - and I remember it as good value too (but it was 1.4 euros to the pound at the time).
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I stayed in Helios apartments in Flaine over Easter weekend. It’s ski in ski out but the snow was diminishing rapidly in typical end of season fashion at low level (1600). You’ll be fine at the times quoted for the trips here. It was only my second ever time skiing in resort and I found flaine bowl great for me an early intermediate with low confidence.

My favourite blues were Crystal, Serpentine and Mephisto. Faust is a red to avoid with moguels at the top and a very steep section back into the bottom of Flaine bowl - it was carnage watching folks come down there at lunch when it was beginning to get slushy (mid April snow on the last weekend of the season).

Le Bissac was our favourite mountain eatery - excellent food and great atmosphere.
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@Moorzee10, To give some context, last season was pretty poor in the GM in terms of snow depth and lack of fresh snow. Easter, especially when late, is very risky in Flaine - it isn't high enough for decent conditions. Even in Mid-march, when I was there, the snow was hard and worn and you had to work hard. But, in good conditions, I'd say Faust is the best run in the Flaine bowl for a half decent skier (which I suppose I am). Yes, Cristal and Serpentine are decent cruising blues but it's all about conditions. I wouldn't book ahead for Flaine for later than mid-March.

@turms2, Flaine is divided into 2 distinct levels: "Foret" at 1700m and "Forum" (the main part) at 1600m the two being linked with free passenger lifts. Both have shops and takeaway food outlets and it's mostly ski in, ski out. There's also a lower level called "Front de neige" with some accommodation. I prefer Foret but some will prefer Forum.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
@kettonskimum, great thread.

I'm visiting Grand Massif / Samoens for the first time at Christmas week, and I look forward to any recommendations on runs and restaurants!

Until then, you'll find me poring over the snow report threads from previous years.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@turms2, I should add that there is the Montsoleil development just outside the entrance to Foret, which has its own ski lift access to the main ski area but it's quite a way from the Flaine village - I'd find it too inconvenient but I guess some will like it.
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billb wrote:
@Moorzee10, To give some context, last season was pretty poor in the GM in terms of snow depth and lack of fresh snow. Easter, especially when late, is very risky in Flaine - it isn't high enough for decent conditions. Even in Mid-march, when I was there, the snow was hard and worn and you had to work hard. But, in good conditions, I'd say Faust is the best run in the Flaine bowl for a half decent skier (which I suppose I am). Yes, Cristal and Serpentine are decent cruising blues but it's all about conditions. I wouldn't book ahead for Flaine for later than mid-March.


My first visit to the GM was in very late March 2008. We had a week of getting 35-50cm a day of fresh powder. We have been skiing regularly in GM since 2012 - as in holding season passes and doing a minimum of 25 days a year. Last season was actually OK in terms of snow cover. Our last skiing day was 10th April 2022 and that week we had 4 Bluebird powder days with knee deep powder. 2021 and 2020 there was also a truck load of snow well into May! So mid-March on is a bit of a punt, but statistically the odds are still in your favour. Speak to any of the locals and they would tell you that Flaine has its own microclimate and that it gets its own weather. Funnily enough, this season gone, the offpiste at Gers was often better than anything lift served that Chamonix could offer, except the Big Boys terrain.
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@cheburator, yes, of course, it can be good in April and I'm glad you've enjoyed good conditions but, as you say, it's a bit of a punt. If I only had one week I wouldn't risk booking ahead for anytime after mid March. I am a fan of the GM having been many times. snowHead
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Just to confirm my Easter weekend GM logic. I had just got back from 3V on 02nd April and was keen to ski again before the end of the season. Being limited to just a 4 day trip (3 days of skiing) and therefore needing something close to Geneva, we opted for GM as they had a huge dump of fresh snow around the weekend of the 8th April. From memory, the GM bowl stayed open for a week longer than planned due to this extra end of season snow but as previously stated, nothing low down from the Tormaline was really open.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@kettonskimum, we’ve skied the GM from Flaine 8-9 times, but not since 2012, there are some pinch points, generally the converging runs connecting Flaine/Samoen, Samoen and Morrilon/Les Carroz towards end of the day. I didn’t particularly enjoy Cascades, it took 2-3 hours from Flaine, and after the first 2-3km it’s a bit dull IMO.
My top tip would be to get out early, ski until 11.30 have a coffee and cake break, ski through lunch peak period 12-2 and have lunch after 2. Bissac in Flaine is good value self service, one main will feed two, with bread to bulk out the meal for the teens. Going back to Morrilon after lunch, I’d go early and to avoid busy lift out of Flaine and then enjoy the runs at the top of Samoens and Morrilon, getting stuck on the Flaine or Les Carroz side will be an expensive taxi.
Overall it’s a great area, I must get back there sometime soon.
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Most of these questions seem to focus on Christmas week and half term. If you want to eat in village then you had better start booking now. Same applies if anybody wants lessons.
Everything will be busy including on mountain restaurants but I don't think they all the bookings.
Best advice on here is about skiing through the lunch peak period. Take that advice. Have fun.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@geoffknight, I disagree that Cascades is "dull". Depends what you want really. Sometimes it's good to get away from the madding crowd and enjoy the silence, certainly at half term and Cascades enables that. Yes, you can end up polling if you don't get a move on and it can be icy/thin/cut up and awkward towards the bottom but I'm always disappointed if it's closed all week. Cascades makes a change from hammering up and down busier, shorter pistes all day long.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@billb, That’s fair enough, I just didn’t think the time it took to do the run and then get back on the slopes at Samoens gave enough skiing in return.
I agree it’s nice to get away from the crowds, that’s why I ski through lunch, I’ve lapped Mephisto many times without anyone in sight.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Thanks all for the comments.

I've been contacted by the owner to ask if we want to hire child sledges - 10 Euros per week. The kids are early teens but I'm sure they'd have a laugh. And I think you need to bring them for Marvel sledging.

My question is, is it worth doing this in advance or just sorting when we get there (Paris half term week). And, is there decent sledging to be done? Do sledges normally get rented out by the week, as opposed to the day?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I’ve spent around 6 weeks in total over the past few years skiing GM either based In Morillon or Samoens and I’ve never really seen any sledging and really can’t consciously recall ever seeing toboggans on the marvel piste, so maybe wait and see what’s available when you go. To my knowledge there’s no dedicated toboggan runs but maybe as it’s not something we were interested in I’ve just not seen them.

As far as restaurants are concerned I agree with others that Chalet d’Eclair has always been good but our fav was always Igloo at the top of Marvel. We’ve had everything from Christmas dinner through to a beer and hot chocolate with snacks and never felt anything less than pleased.

In half term ski through recognised lunch times and sit afterwards.

The whole area has a great mix of runs but the only stretch we have always found stressful during half term or bad snow conditions is the Perce Neige link from Tête des Saix down towards Carroz and Morrillon. It’s nearly always busy, gets scraped and narrows to a choke point often with flyers. Take extra care down there but don’t be put off using it.
Sairon and Marvel will get very busy during half term so don’t overlook using the red Bergin which sits between the two. The lift is always quieter and it’s a really nice wide but steep in places Red run. There is some nice off piste runs beneath the chair lift in the trees too if that interests you.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
If you fancy one night heading down into Morillon Village for a relatively inexpensive dinner I highly recommend the pizzeria opposite the lift station. Either to dine in or takeaway. We always have one dinner from there every visit and defo enjoy it.
Also in the village Le Grenier did a great steak and Hotel Morillon did a great fondu and raclette but a bit more expensive. Probably need to book ahead for those in HT

Also as you have your own transport defo take a drive just a few mins up the road to Samoens one evening. It’s a lovely authentic alpine town with some nice restaurants, bars and shops. Some evenings there is Ice Hockey on at the rink there if the teenagers are interested in watching.
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jirac18 wrote:
the Perce Neige link from Tête des Saix down towards Carroz and Morrillon. It’s nearly always busy, gets scraped and narrows to a choke point often with flyers.


Haven't ski-ed in GM for quite a few years, but I think this is what an ESF instructor called "l'abattoir".....
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@caughtanedge, very apt!
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Worthy of note also as a choke point is the bottom section of Marmottes. As good intermediate skiers on the face of it it’s nothing to worry about, however in HT this is always chockablock and it where it turns 90° left at the bottom section it becomes a congested mogul field. When my kids were little and with my wife who is a nervous beginner/intermediate we always took our time to spot a decent gap in traffic and ski this section swiftly off to one side. Some of the worst unsafe skiing I’ve ever seen has been on this last few hundred metres of a blue run.
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https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=50517

That is a very good topic on gems of GM
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
caughtanedge wrote:
jirac18 wrote:
the Perce Neige link from Tête des Saix down towards Carroz and Morrillon. It’s nearly always busy, gets scraped and narrows to a choke point often with flyers.


Haven't ski-ed in GM for quite a few years, but I think this is what an ESF instructor called "l'abattoir".....


They re-modelled the whole of Tète des Saix about 7 years ago with much wider pisre etc to facilitate just how much traffic can comfortably pass through at peak times. That did make a large difference to early skills skiers generally and giving less fear of approaching it.
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ski3 wrote:
caughtanedge wrote:
jirac18 wrote:
the Perce Neige link from Tête des Saix down towards Carroz and Morrillon. It’s nearly always busy, gets scraped and narrows to a choke point often with flyers.


Haven't ski-ed in GM for quite a few years, but I think this is what an ESF instructor called "l'abattoir".....


They re-modelled the whole of Tète des Saix about 7 years ago with much wider pisre etc to facilitate just how much traffic can comfortably pass through at peak times. That did make a large difference to early skills skiers generally and giving less fear of approaching it.


it is still carnage though Happy
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jirac18 wrote:
Worthy of note also as a choke point is the bottom section of Marmottes. As good intermediate skiers on the face of it it’s nothing to worry about, however in HT this is always chockablock and it where it turns 90° left at the bottom section it becomes a congested mogul field. When my kids were little and with my wife who is a nervous beginner/intermediate we always took our time to spot a decent gap in traffic and ski this section swiftly off to one side. Some of the worst unsafe skiing I’ve ever seen has been on this last few hundred metres of a blue run.
it has been widened over he last few years but still stick to the right edge all way down at the 90 degree left, all the nutters bomb down left or centre, and always look back to your left before going towards tunnel under road for same nutters!
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