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Saalbach - Hinterglemm - Leogang - Fieberbrunn 2018/19 Official Unofficial Thread

 Poster: A snowHead
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Just booked the Adler Resort again for next January. Can't wait to get back. Just back from 5 days in St Anton and have to say S-H wins for me these days - the Arlberg really starting to take the pi55 in terms of prices in bars and restaurants
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Just had a great few days in Saalbach - mostly following advice from on here (tx @tatmantours - we must have crossed paths as we left just as Elvis / Tom was starting).

Conditions were strange after heavy snow turned to rain after the bashers had done most of their work - made Saturday quite challenging and perhaps not the best day to attempt the SkiCircus challenge - our legs gave up @50k and so we skipped Leogang and headed down 66 / 51 back home to the Hotel Astrid. A bit chillier on Sat night and the pistes held up better than I thought they would on Sunday.

First trip to S/H and I have to say we loved it - great town, great ski area, that wonderful relaxed Austrian attitude, the schnapps at Hansi-best-price ski hire, mountain huts-a-plenty, apres-ski options (though we almost always started at Inferno and then Bobbys for watching the sports) then drinks - and more.

The lift system is perhaps the best I have experienced - the group of 12 mixed ability skiers and boarders loved the whole place/vibe.....I now have a decision to make as we had intended to go to Italy next year but I think we may be making a quick return to Saalbach.

10/10 from us
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Not sure I should say this, but conditions yesterday in Leogang, and especially today in Fieberbrunn were excellent. The fresh snow over the last couple of days has freshened up the pistes nicely and the air temperatures have remained cold. Even the south-facing pistes were in great condition today - no moguls or slush, and not many people to churn them up. In fact we didn’t see a single other person on the Reckmoos South red run - F12 - at around 3.30pm, which is a time when you might expect plenty of people to be returning from Fieberbrunn in the direction of S-H.
Pistes F14 (the red from Reiterkogel OST down to the TirolS gondola), F8, and the Reckmoos North and South runs were as good as at any time since January; F14 was an absolute joy.
Disappointed that F6 and F6a were both closed, owing to avalanche danger, so couldn’t get over to my chosen lunch venue, the Wildalpgatterl restaurant. However my group thoroughly enjoyed lunch at the Hochhoerndlhuette - excellent food and service, and very reasonable prices. I think that this will become our restaurant of choice in that area.
The only piste that we encountered in a very full day, which was unpleasant was the run down from the Pfefferalm to the Goassstall - but that was no great surprise.
Talking about the Goassstall, it was my first visit to it for a couple of years, and I only went because some of companions had never been before and wanted to experience it. Unsurprisingly neither I nor my friends enjoyed it. IMHO it has been ruined, and I speak as someone who used to go regularly many years ago. It has expanded to the point where it represents apres-ski on an industrial scale, with hundreds of people standing around under several massive umbrellas, drinking and talking but not really partying as they used to. During the 45 minutes or so that we endured (before catching a taxi to the Spitzbub, where Spacey was entertaining in his inimitable way), the music left much to be desired, the sound system was muffled, and a woman kept bawling unintelligibly in German from behind the counter of the gift shop (which was inexplicably sited years ago in a position that obstructs the beautiful view).
Each to his own, but I won’t be hurrying back. Anyone else feel the same? (Fortunately there are plenty of other good places.)
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@RobJsy. You had a tasty sample of the smorgasbord that S/H has to offer. Bin Italy.
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To support @tatmanstours,
View of Fieberbrunn


View of F12 at 3.15

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@tatmanstours, re the Goastahl. I've always enjoyed it - maybe you didn't stay long enough for the beers to kick in
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@tatmanstours, re the Goastahl. I've always enjoyed it - maybe you didn't stay long enough for the beers to kick in
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Seem to be having issues with my posts - it was a reasonably lengthy response
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@tatmanstours, re the Goastahl. I've always enjoyed it - maybe you didn't stay long enough for the beers to kick in . Zipfer is certainly one of the best Austrian beers imo and €4.50 a pint is decent. They usually do offers each day too. Compared to €6.90 a pint in St Anton it's much better value. I've been to Hinterhagalm twice now and on both occasions totally underwhelmed - probably as I hadn't had enough beers. When we went in January it was basically some Austrian dude murdering various songs on karaoke. The Schwarzacher is a great spot - DJ is a hoot and great location at foot of slopes. Is at the pricier end of the scale though - although slightly better value if you buy your drinks from inside, ie get half litre of beer for same price as .4 outside.
Regardless, the whole area is amazing and offers a much better overall experience than the Arlberg or indeed Ischgl
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There we go. Doesn't like the phones emojis
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@boabski I thought the Schwarzagger was great. First time we have come across it. And just across from our lodgings. You could hear it right across that whole side of the valley. Beer was a touch "tangy" but didn't notice after the first ten. Toofy Grin One thing I love about every place. The facilities are nearly always immaculate. But one question. Why are they always down stairs? Laughing Laughing
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Counting down the hours now! Fly out on Saturday for Saalbach for the first time!
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The top of Schattberg West 11.30 today

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@ianbradders, the DJ is a legend Very Happy (we call him lizard tongue)
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The best apres-ski I’ve experienced this season has been at the Spitzbub and the Soul House - in both cases live entertainment, rather than a DJ.
The Goassstall felt like standing in a football crowd.
The Hinterhag is going down the pan, as a result of Josef Solar (who has sung in there for around 40 years) deserting it this season, in favour of the Bavarian Village at Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland. His side-kick is trying his best but isn’t really up to the job. Not sure who could replace Josef, but, if he’s not coming back, a replacement is needed. People still seem to be enjoying themselves in there however, although I wonder how many realise how much better it used to be. Unfortunately I have little faith in the owner, Evi, who has about as much judgment as Theresa May.
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@tatmanstours, +1 for Soul House.
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Fabulous ribs at the Soul House, have to be the best in the whole of Saalbach
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Ah the Soul House. Wondered where that was. Will definitely look at that next year as it's a classic apres location Toofy Grin seemed busier than previous years when passing it (I love that run down to it too)
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@boabski, we eat there last night for the first time in a couple of years @tatmanstours, had assured me the ribs were as good as ever, he was wrong they are so much better, think he was trying to save them for himself, they are proper smoked ribs and to Mrs R’s delight they also do sweet potato fries. The Big John red is also pretty good. It was definitely busier than the last time we went, we also like that you can book a table beyond 7pm
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@radar, now you're talking. My lads will love that Toofy Grin
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tatmanstours wrote:

The Hinterhag is going down the pan, as a result of Josef Solar (who has sung in there for around 40 years) deserting it this season, in favour of the Bavarian Village at Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland. His side-kick is trying his best but isn’t really up to the job. Not sure who could replace Josef, but, if he’s not coming back, a replacement is needed. People still seem to be enjoying themselves in there however, although I wonder how many realise how much better it used to be. Unfortunately I have little faith in the owner, Evi, who has about as much judgment as Theresa May.


I visited in February and very sadly thought the same thing, although I kept my own counsel at the time. The curly haired guy tried his best but him and the wee tenor guy have no concept of how to structure a setlist so that the crowd is kept engaged. Very few "schlager" standards, some weird opera singing which lost the mood at key moments and tbh despite Josef's vocal limitations, the singing was dreadful. I think it was noticeably quieter in there than in past years, which is a shame, but time moves on, and new experiences present themselves.
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So what are people's opinion on that smart new restaurant at the top of the Schonleitenbahn? (How new - wasn't there 4 years ago) I thought it was pretty good and not ridiculously expensive (it's much cheaper than Wengen)
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@buchanan101 I am guessing you mean at the top of the new Kohlmais. New this season along with the upgraded lift. Didn't actually get to use either the lift or the restaurant unfortunately. Have always thought it was a fantastic location sadly unutilised until now. Top of Schonleiten is the Wildenkarkogel if memory serves me well.
As to value, even the swankiest huts seem to offer very similar prices to any other. Feels almost charitable compared to other destinations (no naming and shaming rolling eyes )
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ianbradders wrote:
@buchanan101 I am guessing you mean at the top of the new Kohlmais. New this season along with the upgraded lift. Didn't actually get to use either the lift or the restaurant unfortunately. Have always thought it was a fantastic location sadly unutilised until now. Top of Schonleiten is the Wildenkarkogel if memory serves me well.
As to value, even the swankiest huts seem to offer very similar prices to any other. Feels almost charitable compared to other destinations (no naming and shaming rolling eyes )


Sorry yes, top of Kohlmais. It was very swanky and about 20% more expensive probably but worth a visit.

Top of Schonleiten was a large but pleasant and very efficient restaurant.

I do like table service...provided it is quick!
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+1 for soul house as best apres this year, still love Burgi’s which was packed always and hence great atmosphere

I ate in the new place at top of Kohlmais, very good food and swish place, bit more expensive than other places

Spit roast suckling pig on view to tempt you as you enter
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Shame about the Hinterhag, we loved it in there a few years back. Also the Goassstall, we enjoyed when it was smaller and played decent tunes, what a shame they've spoilt it.

Soul House sounds great, where is that? Never went to Spacey's either, sounds like we really missed out.

Got back from Zell am See on Weds. Had a lovely time but there is zero apres. ZERO. The umbrella bar people had mentioned at the Hotel Alpin was closed the whole time we were there.
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@HoneyBunny, at the bottom of 46 above the Bernkogel bahn lift station.
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HoneyBunny wrote:
Shame about the Hinterhag, we loved it in there a few years back. Also the Goassstall, we enjoyed when it was smaller and played decent tunes, what a shame they've spoilt it.

Soul House sounds great, where is that? Never went to Spacey's either, sounds like we really missed out.

Got back from Zell am See on Weds. Had a lovely time but there is zero apres. ZERO. The umbrella bar people had mentioned at the Hotel Alpin was closed the whole time we were there.

fortunately not everyone shares the same views which is a good thing ,we were in saalbach early march and had a ball in the hinterhag ,yes is not the same without josef but the 4 visits we made the crowd was good nature vladim with his band members were entertaining and effi was just as eccentric , considering she is in her 70s a legend, and all generations in the place looked to be having a great time, the only thing we found had slipped was the time taken to get served upstairs. but thats the beauty of the apres in saalbach there is something for everyone and plenty of it as its impossible to visit everywhere in a week
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Montana Royal

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Evening all,

How are the pistes looking?

Flying out tomorrow and it looks like weather wise it's going to be a good week. Some sunshine, low wind and perhaps some small amounts of snow on Monday/Tuesday.
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@Fridge03, there’s pleanty of snow depth on piste and with it becoming cooler next week should be very good, even with the warmer conditions we have been able to ski everything we wanted.
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Excellent. Well we have just arrived and it’s t-shirt weather. Lovely. But hoping for it to be a tad cooler and looking forward to some fresh stuff (albeit quite a small amount) later in the week.
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Saalbach people, i need some advice. I have booked flights to Munich crack of dawn on the 3rd April flying back very late on the 8th (only dates i can do). Considering different resorts I can get to without too long a drive, Saalbach being one of them.

I know most places are going to be a bit of a slush fest, that's fine I can live with that. I've been tempted to try Saalbach Hinterglemm for ages and despite they warmth it still seems to have really good snow cover... but it looks like an awful lot will be closed after 30/31st. With the good snow I thought more might be kept open but looks like not so...

As we'd be there after 31st I'm wondering if what's left would be worth it and is there any likelihood they'll extend and keep more open? Any thoughts and advice welcome!
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@Rowlski, the closures of the Hochalm area, the Reiterkogel area and the Kohlmais area from the 1st April is something which has been planned from the season start, and not likely to alter. That said, there is still plenty to do in the time you are there. The other side of the valley is still open so you can still get over to Leogang for a day ( on the return you will have to get the bus back into Saalbach from the Schonleitenbahn). If you get the Salzburg super ski pass you could also go to Kaprun for the day. I should think that the 4 or so days you have skiing there will be more than enough. In the last ten years or so at this time we have had blazing sun and heavy snow, and everything inbetween! But without fail we have always had a great time here.
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Unless I decide to go up to happy hour at the Berger Alm, it looks as if I'm having a day off today - snowing very hard outside and very murky up the mountain.

It's been a great couple of weeks. Early last week we got a worthwhile dump, and the temps stayed cool for a few days, resulting in the best ski days I've had since January. Later in the week it warmed up considerably, and until yesterday we had typical spring skiing - obviously it pays to give some thought to the orientation of slopes later in the day. However, as a result of perseverance, I seem to have developed a fairly positive, "it's all good practice" attitude - even to piste 2b in the afternoon. I can see why some people call soft, slushy snow "poor man's powder". Even the moguls that inevitably develop are soft and forgiving, rather than those hard, unyielding lumps that can catch out even experienced skiers.

Late March in Saalbach is one of my favourite times, and the only thing that has marred my enjoyment is that I have a heavily sunburnt bottom lip, which has swollen into a semi-trout-pout. Won't make that mistake again when plastering on the factor 40. White Pearl Mountain Days is currently hosting very extravagant parties in the snow - many sights designed to make your eyes pop out, and some very cool live, musical performers. This happens at a different mountain restaurant every day. I attended last Wednesday's WPMD party, when it was at Mama Thresl's Hendlfischerei (Chicken Man) at Leogang; yesterday it was at the Rosswaldhuette above Hinterglemm. Lots of beautiful people (me excepted) dancing in the sun to cool vibes that even an old curmudgeon like me had to admit were pretty good.

The apres-ski scene feels as if it's reaching a climactic finale. Friday night's closing party at the Underbar kept us out until 03.00am (but still enjoyed the next day's skiing to the bottom of the Steinberg run at Leogang, accompanied by this week's guests). Last night might have been Spacey's final gig in the Oetzi Bar, and it was certainly the most riotous that I have been to, thanks to a party of a dozen young, British, twenty-something party animals (part of a larger party of 36, staying at Pension Enzian), who were hell-bent on having a good time - and that apparently included taking their tops off (girls included). At times it resembled a sauna! It is also likely that tomorrow evening's 5.00-8.00pm Spacey show at the Spitzbub will be the last of the season. (Fingers crossed that one or more of these bar owners decide that it's worth keeping the apres-ski going until the end of the week).

On the skiing front, it obviously changes all the time, and the heavy snow currently falling should bode well for the rest of this week. Yesterday, despite the warm, sunny weather, I found some extremely good skiing on the Schattberg Westgipfel run down to Hinterglemm, and on the Zwoelfer Nordabfahrt (piste 14) - both north/west facing. On crossing to the other side of the valley, we had some enjoyable slush skiing (thankfully, none of that sticky, stop/start stuff), and the WPMD party at the Rosswaldhuette was a blast when we got there at about 1.30pm. Photos and videos to be posted on Facebook for those of you who are FB friends.

Looking forward to the Crazy Deer this evening (which is open until the end of April incidentally), and the Spitzbub apres-ski show tomorrow.
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@Rowlski, For the number of people who will still be skiing, the amount of skiing still available during the first week of April should be more than adequate. Only the south-facing side of the Glemm valley will be closed, so at least half of the 270km area will still be open. Last year we found that, after they had similarly closed that side of the valley, we were nevertheless able to ski back down the Kohlmais on the way back from Leogang. However I would need to enquire about this, as last year was unusual, in that the Kohlmaisgipfelbahn gondola had been closed to enable work to start on the new gondola. The ski areas that will still be open include all the best late season pistes (i.e. all those shaded from the sun).
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Thanks @tatmanstours and @summerseat, Saalbach Hinterglemm would still be my preferred destination but it looks like its easier to get the kids in a ski school in other resorts which are due to be open longer like Kitzbuhel and Alpbach. Seems odd as Saalbach has the better snow and a bit more altitude but both of those plan to stay open longer.

Anyhow the missus is keener on going somewhere the ski schools will take the kids in group lessons and most of the schools I have got in touch in Saalbach have told me they're closed or doing private lessons only after the 31st March. Haven't decided either way yet, still determined to get to Saalbach sometime, its been on my list for so long!!

Will see - thanks for the help and enjoy the late March skiing
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Hello all,

Have been lurking quite a bit and am quite excited in general to be skiing Saalbach Hinterglemm next year in January. Having only skied Niseko, (where accommodations get booked up really early or become prohibitively expensive) I am wondering when I ought to start making bookings.

My many thanks!
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The Mountain Attack race takes place in Jan next year and having pm'd him I am expecting Mr Tatman to be kind enough to give a fairly definitive answer but has anyone else been in Saalbach at the same time as a previous race and got any experience or opinions of how it affects a holiday? The party in the village sounds good but are the slopes/lifts affected in the run up to the start?
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byroxz wrote:
Hello all,

Have been lurking quite a bit and am quite excited in general to be skiing Saalbach Hinterglemm next year in January. Having only skied Niseko, (where accommodations get booked up really early or become prohibitively expensive) I am wondering when I ought to start making bookings.

My many thanks!

if you are booking a week with a mainstream t/o suggest the earlier the better to get what you want as from what ive seen the last few years uk based t/o dont have a massive amount of availability( in relation to germans dutch danish and scandis uk folks are thin on the ground) and what they have tends to get booked up early esp the more affordable.self catering your best help would be tatman. If you are planning on doing your own booking flexible dates are more likely in mid jan and then that depends on your travel i.e wether fly or drive, there arnt that many flights into salzburg but with careful planning can give you an extra 2 x2/3 of a day skiing as against munich,weve driven via north sea ferries and or flown into salzburg this last few years in both jan and march and if going for a week sat/sat we book hotel before sept if poss whatever travel plans , just a word of caution saalbach and hinterglem are completely different in terms of ambience and style plus be careful to choose accom in the centre if at all poss as ive found taxis a tad expensive should you need one to get home!!
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