 Poster: A snowHead
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Trip report, Hokkaido March 3rd to 17th 2018.
5 go on an adventure. We flew into Sapporo separately from a snowbound UK. Two of the party were delayed by snow at Heathrow and missed the first day skiing in exchange for a BA upgrade. Not a bad deal in the end.
We'd pre booked a couple of nights in Sapporo followed by 3 nights in Furano with the idea to follow the snow there after. The trip was fully DIY with 2 cars hired between us and selected 4wd with roof bars.
Day 1.
Monday - Sapporo Teine.
The weather had turned warm as we flew out, resulting in a big thaw followed by a brutal refreeze. Day 1 ended up skiing on refrozen ice complete with death cookies. Not really the Japow experience we were after. Teine is a nice resort and 'On a powder day' would deliver the goods for sure. The fair ground and ferris wheel added a slightly surreal note.
Day 2.
Tuesday - Mount Racey.
With the group assembled the orical that is snow-forecast.com pointed us to Mount Racey as an option on the way to Furano. Sure enough there was some fresh, but really deeper dust in crust. Another resort which 'On a powder day' would deliver the goods with some steeper terrain off to the skiers right. Not many people on the slopes and super friendly staff.
^^ Some fresh in the Mt Racey car park.
Day 3.
Wednesday - Furano.
Heavy snow set in as we left Mt Racey for the drive over to Furano. Expectations were high and we decided to head over to the skiers left of the resort to look at the gates C and E. The new snow had given a reset and the higher runs were closed for Avy control leaving gate C. We were the first through and after some pondering as to the line we dropped in, face shots and all. Exit was via a short skin back to the pistes mid mountain and repeat.
By this time gate E was open, so a hike up to the gate and then up the ridge gave us fresh lines on the face. One of the runs of the trip.
^^ Finding a line beyond Gate C
^^ Hiking up to the ridge after taking Gate E
^^ Pleasantly steep japow.
Day 4.
Thursday - Furano.
No new snow overnight and an indifferent weather forecast gave rise to a plan to look at some touring over on the Tokachi range in the Daisetsuzan National Park, a 40 minute drive from Furano. A quick diversion to the Back Country hire shop for maps and local info, and we headed out. We (I) managed to miss the roadside parking and ended up at an Onsen. The weather was brutal with high winds and and drifting snow so over a coffee we ditched the ski touring plan and went for a walk up to the next Onsen, another popular ski touring start point giving access to Alpine terrain above the tree line.
The snow started to fall by evening and was properly hammering down by the time we had finished dinner. In the spirit of cultural exchange we introduced the concept of bomberdino's to the local Italian style bar.
^^ Steep alpine terrain in the Daisetsuzan National Park. Lots of Ski touring and steep skiing options.
^^ A member of the crew attempting to influence the forecast rain with a snow dance.
Day 5.
Friday - Furano.
Japow was taunting us. The heavy snow had turned to biblical rain which had turned the pavements to a lethal mix of water on ice. The only thing to do was a down day consisting of a slither to Mac Donald and studying the weather forecast to tomorrows move. Going high seemed a plan.
Day 6.
Saturday - Asahidake.
A single cable car 'resort' with the base at 1100m and the top station at 1600m, Asahidake has the vibe of a mini La Grave. With token pistes the real interest is the off piste in the trees despite the recorded safety message suggesting otherwise.
The day was clear and bright, with a little fresh on a hard base so we explored the terrain off the top lift, eventually deciding to skin up the ridge overlooking the fumerals. With cloud drifting in and out visibility was variable. Typically we'd all left our ski crampons at home which limited our options a little.
^^ Access cable car.
^^ Heading up to the Volcano. Fumerals steaming in the distance.
Day 7, 8 and 9.
Sunday - Asahidake.
Another clear day saw us putting on the skins and heading up to the fumerals and then up the central gully of the Volcano. It's possible to get close up to the fumeral vents which expel steam and sulphur. The small river running off the hill runs warm and you can see places on the hill where the snow is being melted back. It does add an extra dimension to understanding the avalanche risk.
Asahidake seemed very popular with the local snow boarders. Swallow tail boards seemed especially popular along with some split boards and one guy riding a 2m plus monster. That said, some of the exits were not boarder friendly requiring long walks out.
Another feature of Asahidake is the relative steepness of some of the lines on offer with some pleasantly steep skiing available if wanted but with the associated avalanches risks. Don't believe all you read about Japan being low risk or only shallow.
^^ Heading back down to the crater.
^^ Sunset turns.
^^ Perhaps not the tool of choice for dust on crust.
Day 10
Wednesday - Kamui Ski Links.
With the snow forecast taunting and not delivering in Asahidake we needed a break so decided on a day trip out of the valley over to Kamui. Although the main off piste runs were closed Kamui gave us one of the best piste skiing days I've had this season, complete with a gnarly boarder cross run and a couple of runs through a GS course marked with twigs and blue spray paint ! Sadly no timer....
Out of bounds safety information complete with avalanched danger spots were posted in the cafe at the top of the resort although it was unclear the view the resort takes to dropping off piste between runs.
^^ An early morning visitor to the hotel.
^^ Colour coded lifts at Kamui.
Day 11 and 12
Thursday Friday - Asahidake.
With heavy snow forecast for Thursday day and night, hopes were high for another taste of Japow before heading home. Unfortunately the predicted snow for Thursday didn't materialise until early evening at which point it started snowing hard. Friday dawned with fresh snow ground and gave us a day of Japow, finding fresh tracks until departing back for the airport hotel.
^^ 2 of the crew enjoying a little bit of fresh before the final snowfall.
To wrap:
We obviously didn't get the full Japow experience but chatting to locals and regulars it seems we were unlucky rather than too late with a March trip. A return in on the cards to complete the unfinished business.
My flight back took me over the main island resorts and Mt Fuji. Lots of resorts and Alpine looking terrain which could be tempting next time.
Other useful info for first timers:
Booking with JAL I was technically in breech of their luggage policy (L + W + H no more than 203cm) for ski's but on this occasion no one took any notice. The final connection time at Helsinki was tight and as a result I'm waiting for my luggage to arrive as I type. For first timers, it's worth noting you will need to complete imegration at your first airport in Japan, meaning you will need to collect you luggage and check in again for the domestic leg (if required).
On the return trip, the luggage was checked through to my UK airport but I had to go through security at each leg which added extra time for the connections.
Car hire was straight forward but ski racks and a 4x4 are a good idea. Some of the Japanese mini vans are 'mini', so for the 5 of us we went for 2 cars.
Chip and Pin credit card machines are rare, so a fresh card with a new magnetic strip is worth considering. Some places (and resorts) don't accept cards and cash machines tend to be in the 7-11 stores which may need a drive to get to. Petrol stations seem to use automated pre pay machines and for some reason my cards would not work.
A taxi for 5 with ski gear is hard to find for the short transfer to the airport....
We went fully DIY and unguided which I think saved us about £1200 per person compared to one of the popular tour companies, and give us a couple of extra ski days. However the unguided option won't be for everyone.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Thanks for the TR - it’s good to read about the DIY options. I thought that the famed Japow was basically guaranteed, so this was a bit of an eye opener. Shame you didn’t have luck in this regard.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Great report, thank you.
I’ve only been going to Hokkaido for the last 3 seasons, for 2 weeks each time, running from mid February, into early March. I’ve definitely got the impression that conditions are much more variable at this time, than in January.
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Great report. I visited Japan for 2 weeks at the start of February 2015 and experienced a similar mix of conditions. Having since read many similar reports I'm increasingly beginning to wonder if receiving non stop JaPow for a typical 1 week or fortnight visit is lucky rather than to be expected.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You were definitely unlucky - but then I did leave a couple of days before your arrival, and returned to snow in Wales 😉
March is my favourite month on Hokkaido and it typically provides 3-4 snow events per week, with sunshine the rest.
It's not guaranteed, but high odds of great skiing in a 10-14 day period in my experience. And I know there'll be replies saying they had average conditions too.
I've skied the line in your Daisetsusan pic and it is most definitely worth a return.
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Cheers all.
@Mike Pow, I think it was bad luck rather than a poor decision on the time of year. I got chatting to an Australian who visited the same time for the last 7 years and reckons it's normally Japow. I know a few people who have also struggled earlier in the year as well so as ever it's just a case of being lucky.
Good work with that line, as nice as it looks ?
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@AndAnotherThing.., very interesting, thank you.
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@AndAnotherThing.., thank for the full report, I've been enjoying your photos along the way. Fun times. Ange 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Hurtle, @flangesax, Thanks 
@flangesax, hope the knee is feeling better.
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@AndAnotherThing.., thank you, both knees, a somewhat medical mystery so far! Skiing will resume at some point this week! Ange
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| AndAnotherThing.. wrote: |
Cheers all.
@Mike Pow, I think it was bad luck rather than a poor decision on the time of year. I got chatting to an Australian who visited the same time for the last 7 years and reckons it's normally Japow. I know a few people who have also struggled earlier in the year as well so as ever it's just a case of being lucky.
Good work with that line, as nice as it looks ? |
Oh yes 👍👌
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@AndAnotherThing.., Great report, cheers, myself and Kooky are hoping to get out during the next few years.
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@Scarpa, Gotta do it. I reckon my costs we're about the same as 2 weeks in the Alps... although you do have an advantage there 
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You know it makes sense.
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AndAnotherThing.., Thanks for taking the time for the TR , some great photos there. 
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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We did Furano/Kamui in mid January for 2 weeks, snowed 80% of the days. So epic. 2 days at Kamui were the best. This resort is a little secret. $Au37 a day to snowboard. Was only about 30 cars in the car park. Have the mountain just about to yourself.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@AndAnotherThing.., thanks for this, really interesting.
Think its looking like January for me then because this will be a once in a lifetime trip.
I love that photo of the fox btw, very cute!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Thanks for the trip resort. Interesting to hear about the DIY options. Some of the photos confirm my expectation that as with many things in Japan, the lift infrastructure is far from high tech. Much of the technology appears to be focused on vending machines and toilets 
You mentioned a couple of onsens - did you try them? I've not skied in Japan but have spent a lot of time in onsens and sentos and am now convinced it would be a near perfect way to ease the muscles at the end of a skiing day.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@sugarmoma666, Personally I didn't. I was hoping to find an outdoor one but that didn't work out in the end. A few of the group did though
The lift infrastructure wasn't an issue.
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@Kooky, I did a 'once in a lifetime' trip to Hokkaido last January. Just booked for xmas/new year 17/18 - be careful!
@AndAnotherThing.., thanks for the TR, looks like you made the best of the mixed conditions. Probably for the best if the bombardinos stay in Italy though...
Can I ask who you rented the car through and roughly how much you paid? Seems to be a bit of a minefield.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@AndAnotherThing.., Great TR. I've been three times in late Jan/early Feb and had mixed conditions every time, although no rain. Powder at least half the time though - definitely totally worth it. I want to go back next winter.
@element, I can recommend what I did for renting a car. Booked mid-November 2016 for mid-January 2017. It was by some way the best deal I found at the time:
You have to navigate a Japanese website via Google Translate:
http://www.tabirai.net/car/hokkaido/
We booked a small automatic 4WD with ski racks (spacious for 2, would be OK for 3 but the racks only held 2 pairs) for 12 days for 45,700 Yen. The actual booking was with Budget but it was much cheaper than booking direct. The winter packages probably won't appear until much closer to the time. No prepay or credit card details required. Second driver was included for no charge.
The pickup and drop-off process was excellent, super friendly and efficient! The car was fine driving on snow-covered roads.
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@musehead, that's pretty much half the price of everything I have seen so far, thanks for the tip. Did that price include full insurance and sat navs, and could you choose ski racks as an option or did u have to negotiate at the counter? Could tag on a day's cat skiing if I could get the car at that price!
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@element, We went Nippon Rent a car, Nissan Note (or similar) with 4wd and ski rack, auto, snow tires. Bus from CTS to collect from depot. In the end we got a small hatch which was fine for 2 and we did manage 3 up with luggage for the 1st day.
90k yen for not quite 2 weeks, Sunday > Friday on some sort of discount code. No prepay etc but it looks like you needed to give a card to reserve.
@musehead 45k yen sounds like a good deal.
edit, It did come with Satnav which was a bit odd. The best way of programming it was by the phone number of the destination but it seemed to drop out and not let you enter details on occasion. I also took my phone pre loaded with maps as a back up but tended to revert to the incar one. All the extras were pre booked. No extra for 2nd driver.
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@element, It was a package deal called "complete winter specification" which already included 4WD, ski racks and snow tires. It also had a satnav built in but I used my phone instead. I didn't pay anything extra for insurance because I already had a comprehensive separate policy.
I had a quick look just now for the summer (winter not on sale yet) and cars are going for about 50-55k yen for two weeks. The prices are cheaper in you search in Japanese rather than English.
I'd probably wait until the Autumn and then see what winter deals are available.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks again for all the info.
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FAQ
