 Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@beermatt, It really depends on the designer of the ski where the mount point is. Each ski should have a ski boot mid boot mount point marked on it. Your boots will also have a small arrow or line marked on the boot mid point. When mounted 'normally' these two marks will line up. However you can move the mount point of the bindings backwards or forwards depends on your preference.
You old skis appear to have a rearwards basis to the mount point, whereas the new ones are more centrally mounted. Provided the mount points line up you should be fine.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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OK thanks.
I can see the mount point guide on the boot but not on the skis. It appears to be covered up by the plastic running between the front and back bindings. I can't see any way of adusting them. Well other than either unscrewing the bindings from the skis which I'm assuming is a bad idea, or moving both of the normal boot length adjustments in the same direction but that also seems a bit dodgy.
The old ones don't appear to have them at all! Possibly because of their age.
Maybe I'll just have to try them and see how they feel. More difficult to return after I've tried them on so thought I'd have an ask around first. And try to understand it.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@beermatt, If you have the same skis as the link below, with the same Look bindings, there maybe some scope for a movement 1-2cm, but that would depend on your boot length.
https://www.wedze.co.uk/xlander-700-mens-all-mountain-skis-yellow-id_8370046
You don't mention if the bindings have been adjusted. If you haven't already done so, it might be worth while taking your boots and skis to your local ski shop, and asking them to setup the bindings. If you book in advance and don't try 2pm on a Saturday, they will probably help, and if they charge it should be around £20-25.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Depends on the design and profile of the ski. For example, my old Scott Powdairs are a traditionally cambered and side cut design with no rocker and have significantly more ski in front of the binding than behind. My newer aggressively rockered freeride skis have the bindings mounted more centrally, even though they're 8cm back from ski centre...if that makes sense!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Yup, I've certainly found that I prefer a more centrally mounted binding as seen on many of the current skis which are designed to be skied with a more balanced stance. Quicker turning and more agile. Stability at speed should be fine, current ski production uses new materials, varying stiffness towards the tips, torsional stiffness etc to improve performance. An all mountain ski should be fine unless you really like GS ski speeds most of the time 
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@PowderAdict yes that's the right link. My boots are 315mm and I adjusted the bindings myself, that bit seemed fairly straight forward. Several calculators and charts agree I'm a 6 DIN. I guess by 1-2cm scope for movement you mean to move both front and back bindings in the same direction so that it still fits the boot even though the numbers will read differently. I'll give myself plenty of time to get uesd to them in their original position first, but will bear that in mind if they still don't feel right.
@Sharkymark and @Scarpa thanks guys, sounds reassuring. Going to give them a try on an indoor slope today (only thing available at the moment! Off to Bansko next week though.)
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Impressed after trying them out. Much easier to turn than I was expecting. Going from roughly a 12m radius to a 17m radius I thought it'd be quite difficult, but I guess that geometry is following the exact curve of the skis; the reality is I can spin them round in just a few metres. Probably 5 metres to go from edge to edge if I push it, roughly half that to goto edge from straight downwards (eg emergency stop!). I can feel the tail dragging a bit on some turns and often requires a bit more effort than my shorter skis, but not much, overall they're very responsive and manageable.
They do feel smoother and less chattery at speed too. I'm not sure whether that's because the longer backs stop them from dropping into holes as much, or whether it's just a better technology. Or whether it's just placebo! Difficult to tell on an indoor slope, they'll get a more thorough grilling next week. But so far so good 
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FAQ
I was expectig roughly an extra 7cm at the front and an extra 7cm at the back, but the reality is the entire additional 14cm seems has been stitched on the back.
