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St Anton tips for a nervous intermediate

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
After leaving it to the last minute and being left with very little choice I have booked one of the few remaining easily accessible chalets in the alps for next week. I will be travelling with my wife who has the same level of ability as me but suffers badly from a lack of confidence particularly affected by busy slopes, ice and moguls (she can ski moguls pretty well but has recurring knee problems and they cause her a lot of pain). To give some idea of ability we can both ski reasonably well your average French and Italian reds and can safely get down (albeit not particularly stylishly) most tricky reds and easy blacks i.e we had no issue skiing every run in Cervinia earlier this year and most reds in Alpe D'Huez last year plus the Sarenne and the another easy black. However, at the end of the day with busy home runs, tired legs, scraped off areas and moguls she really struggled and it affected her confidence.

Taking the above into account I am well aware that we aren't really going to the most suitable resort. However, we are where we are so can any St Anton regulars offer some tips for us to make the most of the skiing. From what I've read the Lech, Zurs, Warth, Sonnenkopf and Rendl areas appear to be the most suitable for intermediate cruising but with the exception of the latter transport to the others sounds like it can be a bit of a nightmare. Are these areas easily accessible using public transport / ski bus and can you offer any tips to make things easier, best places to catch buses to avoid crowds, ensure we don't get stranded etc? We are staying just to the west of the town centre about 10 mins walk out.

Also are there any particular runs of note that may be best avoided that wouldn't be obvious from the piste map, i.e particularly nasty reds etc?

One last thing, we are catching the train from Innsbruck to St Anton, is this service usually reliable as on our return we need to catch the first train out in the morning and don't have bags of time to spare. I guess it's tough if the answer is no but a bit or reassurance would be great Toofy Grin

Any help or advice would be much appreciated either on anything mentioned or just on St Anton in general really. Our trips are usually well planned but it literally feels like we are going into this one blind.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Rendl is always our first day skiing in st Anton. Usually quiet and well groomed. The skiing around Stuben is quiet too but pretty limited in terms of pistes. I've used the train a few times and reliable ime.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Trains in Austria are very reliable. (probably -rumour has it- much more so than in the UK)
Skiing in St.Anton can indeed by tricky for quiet intermediates. Even some blues can get bumby here. The valleyrun is bumby almost every end of day. You need to make good study of the skimap, and probably some forummembers can give details for the easiest way-around-the-bottlenecks (if available)
Forget about Warth and Sonnenkopf at first: too far/circumstantial.
Lech and Zürs offer plenty (plenty!!) of gentle cruisers (although the connecting piste from Zürs to Lech, "Madloch", is bumby often)
To get to Lech and Zürs without having to ski in St.Anton the very reliable yellow Postbus (not free, but not expensive either) is the way to go, which leaves from the central terminal near the Rendl-bahn.
You can also get to Lech/Zürs via the free skibus from Alpe Rauz which is in the middle of the St.Anton-Stuben skiarea. But by this way, you will still have to use to St.Anton valley run at the end of day....
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@GottaCatchEmAll, i'm sure you will both be fine.

As @boabski, says Rendl would be a lovely introduction to the area and help find your ski legs.

Study the map carefully to get your bearings. What we would often do is ski over to St Christof/Alpe Rauz and catch the bus to Lech from either of these two places but I guess this will depend on you location. Lech is lovely, cruisy pistes and a nice vibe in the town. Lech will have lots for you to enjoy but even St Anton has good piste skiing.
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Quote:

However, at the end of the day with busy home runs, tired legs, scraped off areas and moguls she really struggled and it affected her confidence.

I entirely empathize with that! My answer is to download in a lift, where it makes sense, rather than fight it out on the valley runs with a whole lot of others, many of whom can't ski. I don't know St Anton but it sounds as though there are plenty of good options for you.

Have a good time. snowHead
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The Gampen/Nasserein area is also good to find your feet.

Rendl is best mid-morning to early afternoon when it gets the sun.

The run down into St Christoph (#8 ) from the Galzig area is nice and as mentioned above is a handy point to pick up the bus to Lech. The Hospitz Alm is a good lunch spot in St Christoph which has a gimmiky slide to the loos. If you are nervious, for your first couple of days avoid the runs (#19) off the top of the Vallugabahn I.

When I was much younger we used to try and avoid the crowds on the home run (#1) by arriving at the Mooserwirt at around 3 pm (just as they are playing "The Final Countdown" or "Let me entertain you") and settle in for the afternoon. You can then do the remainder of the run approx 300-400m at your leisure. Just try not to be this bloke:


http://youtube.com/v/BdC5UqbHAMg rolling eyes
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Trains are very reliable and punctual, having used the services regularly in both directions between Innsbruck/Zurich to St Anton.
Rendl is best for more sympathetic pistes. On the Galzig side, as @chivdog, if you are there, ski down before 3pm before the crowds, otherwise use the cable car down, however, if you do this you will need to walk up the slopes to the KK, Griabli,Mooserwirt, Sennhutte, etc.
To visit Lech maybe use the post bus service from St. Anton west bus terminal, best to avoid Zurs and stay on to Lech.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Don't go to Rendl until after 11am, otherwise you'll be rattling your fillings out on the cast iron corduroy.

And don't go to Moosewert because it's unutterably dreadful.
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Dr John wrote:
it's unutterably dreadful.


I regard that as a reason to go to the Mooserwirt wink ... at least once. It is the trashiest of trash.

Sometimes we used to perch ourselves at the hotel / bar opposite the Mooserwirt and enjoy the train wreck occuring in slow motion across the other side of the run.
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@chivdog, the Griabli is a great spot in the sun, as you say to observe the nightmare unfolding across the way, but that is as close as you need to get. Taps and KK offer better music, a far more diverse crowd and drinks/toilets without a 30 minute wait.
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Echo points re he griabli. Best beer in area, table service and if the snowtones are playing it rocks.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@boabski, the circle bar outside is great for people watching
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Agree with Pam W - when your legs are tired and the runs chopped up/icy/busy the sensible option is to get a lift back down the resort - why spoil a lovely day's skiing.
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 You know it makes sense.
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@GottaCatchEmAll,

The blues and reds on Galzig are easy.
The blues and reds on Rendl are easy.
Run 17 to Aple Rauz best avoided later in the day.
Blue run S1a into Stuben is a really nice cruise.
Red run S2 into Stuben is a narrow track best avoided.
Blue run 4 (Happy Valley) can be closed so maybe check before/during day. Possible to get to go down on Galzigbahn and avoid this run and the black alternative both from Galzig and also from the Stuben side via new Tanzboden chair lift.

Definitely worth a trip to Sonnenkopf, Lech, Zurs, and Warth:

Sonnenkopf has a fairly steep black but otherwise the runs are nice for intermediates.
Zurs has no difficult pistes and will be quiet except for people doing the WhiteRing route.
Lech also has no difficult pistes and will generally also be quite quiet.
Warth has some easier and some harder blacks but these can be viewed from the lifts before you ski them should you wish.

Some of the easy ski routes are regularly (some I suspect always when open) pisted e.g. 33, 56, 48, 63, 64, 65, 15, (38b sometimes).
It is also likely 37 will be pisted quite often and although it is a harder ski route grading as it has a steep first pitch (after the button lift), it was mogul free when I skied it a few weeks ago. This is a nice run with a leisurely cruise through the trees after the initial slope.

It is also worth noting there are a few flat sections that are a little bit of a pain and some of the connections quite slow. There is a rope tow at the top of the Zug chair that is also a pain (only avoided by unpisted ski route)!

Try to do the WhiteRing route from Zurs first thing before it gets busy from people in Lech (by mid morning). Also worth checking the piste overlay on googlemaps as this will show you the actual length and steepness of different slopes (whereas the piste map is a little misleading in some areas).
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Make sure you go to the Mooserwirt, it's brilliant!

Ignore the miserable old sods, it's one of the most legendary apres spots in the world.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Thanks for the advice everyone, some great info there to be reading through Madeye-Smiley

We will definitely be taking a visit to Mooserwirt, even if it is just the once Twisted Evil snowHead
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HoneyBunny wrote:
Make sure you go to the Mooserwirt, it's brilliant!

Ignore the miserable old sods, it's one of the most legendary apres spots in the world.


Yep. Griabli is normally full of old blokes peering over at the younger people partying and wondering why they are having such fun!

(joke).
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Take the bus to lech is a good bet
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Around 90% of skiers are gash. It is a tough skill to master. Most people vacationing in the Alps are in the same boat as you / your wife.

Nightlife in St Anton is busy but tragic. Full of old people who only party once or twice a year and student nerds who think it's hip to dance on tables.
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@Whitegold,
Another very stylish comment.
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Whitegold wrote:
Full of old people who only party once or twice a year and student nerds who think it's hip to dance on tables.


Best description of the Mooser ever (& could also be said about 90% of ski resorts)
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Quote:

Nightlife in St Anton is busy but tragic. Full of old people who only party once or twice a year and student nerds who think it's hip to dance on tables

Laughing
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
So yes, you can go skiing but how dare you have any fun in the evenings!?!
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GottaCatchEmAll wrote:

We will definitely be taking a visit to Mooserwirt, even if it is just the once Twisted Evil snowHead


Go once; go large. Toofy Grin

Here are my tips:

1. go on a spectacular sunny day;
2. get there early (around 1/2 pm) to secure an outside table and perhaps have lunch. You could also go across to the Griabli for lunch and then move to the Moose no later than 2.30 ish. You'll get served at your table;
3. once the music gets going (around 3/3.30 ish) either dance on tables or get coated in beer/schnapps - your choice;
4. keep an eye on your skis/boards - thefts are common;
5. when skiing back to town in the dark, watch out for the piste bashers...

enjoy!
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Whitegold wrote:
Nightlife in St Anton is busy but tragic. Full of old people who only party once or twice a year and student nerds who think it's hip to dance on tables.


Totally inaccurate. I'm an old guy (well getting there) who only parties once or twice per year and I think it's hip to dance on tables Toofy Grin .
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@chivdog, to summarise; lose half a day skiing, get yourself covered in alcohol, significantly increased risk of losing your skis, and if you don't lose your skis try to to crash into a basher and/or get mowed down by pissed people.

That's the world famous Moosewirt experience in a nutshell folks.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Dr John wrote:
@chivdog, to summarise; lose half a day skiing, get yourself covered in alcohol, significantly increased risk of losing your skis, and if you don't lose your skis try to to crash into a basher and/or get mowed down by pissed people.


Pretty much!
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Quote:

to summarise; lose half a day skiing, get yourself covered in alcohol, significantly increased risk of losing your skis, and if you don't lose your skis try to to crash into a basher and/or get mowed down by pissed people.

Well, some people clearly enjoy all that enough to give up half a day's skiing, others would have to be paid a lot to even consider it.

Fortunately, it takes all sorts...... wink
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@pam w, more people prefer beach holidays than skiing, believe it or not.

Fortunately, it takes all sorts...... wink
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Quote:

more people prefer beach holidays than skiing

and for quite a few of them, getting off their trolleys is an essential part of a beach holiday, too.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
The main pistes at Rendl are lovely. There is an old chair that goes higher up and the only way down from it is a ski-route. As an eager intermediate I didn't realise this. The run looked lovely from below but once I was half-way up the chair I realised the top was just a mass of enormous moguls, well beyond my capabilities at the time. I've skied around 25 weeks now and I think quite a high percentage of all my skiing falls occurred coming down that one run.

Between Zurs and Lech there's a ski route (only doable in one direction) called the White Ring that gets fairly heavily promoted on the piste maps etc. as a big thing to do. Lots of St Anton based skiers will do it for a ski away day. There is one section going from Zurs to Lech (the red ski-route descent to Zug) that can get quite mogulled, so your wife might not enjoy that. The section going from Lech back to Zurs is usually quieter and smoother and you'd really enjoy that. On a clear day it's a blue-piste cruise with beautiful scenery. I'd suggest you get the bus to Lech, ski the pistes above Oberlech in the morning, having a nice lunch there then drop down into Lech to get the big cable car up the other side for the trip round to Zurs. Get a couple of nice runs in down to Zurs, couple of drinks at the bar near the bus stop then bus back to Alpe Rauz in time to ski back to St Anton.
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I've always had plenty of fun at the Mooserwirt. Once or twice it's been too crowded but by and large as long as you are happy to get into the spirit, dance (on tables or not) and don't mind a crowd it's great. If that's not your thing and you know that in advance it's unlikely that you'll suddenly find you enjoy it (though you might), so in that case avoid it. There are plenty of other fun places to suit all tastes. The saddest of all are those that sneer at other people enjoying themselves (whether they are dancing on a table or train spotting). God save us all from having to spend any time with them. That would indeed be a dismal way to spend life.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
We've always had a great time in the Mooserwirt. The Krazy Kangaruh is also good for a laugh too. It's hardly Magaluf on a Saturday night... Just have fun.

You must do the evening tobogganing. Book a table in the restaurant halfway down (Rodel Alm?) as they do great food - the grostl is superb. One of the highlights of our trips has been this, and it's cheap to do.
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@nozawaonsen, @Rhoobarb, knock yourselves out guys, each to their own. I'll probably have to put in an appearance in a couple of weeks, I'll be with a couple of St Anton virgins who'll want to see it. My main point is that the hype doesn't live up to the reality and there are better places that people miss out on because MW get's all the press.
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@Dr John, you're right of course, lots of places to have fun and that comes in all shapes and sizes. Personally I always enjoy the Underground, but some people don't. Anyway good times a plenty to be had.
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Quote:

The saddest of all are those that sneer at other people enjoying themselves

Indeed, including those who suggest that anyone who doesn't enjoy the Mooserwirt and would prefer a quiet glass of wine watching the sunset is a miserable old git.
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@pam w, has anyone said that? And indeed have you ever been to St Anton or indeed the Mooserwirt?
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@nozawaonsen, "Ignore the miserable old sods" ..... somebody said above. No, I've not been to the Mooserwirt, and only visited St Anton in summer. The videos of the Mooserwirt give me the willies, frankly. I like to dance, and enjoy a drink, but I hate drunks, and hate drunken crowds most of all.

Similarly the videos of the Folie Douce(s) or Ibiza give me the willies too. It's not specifically St Anton.

I prefer the low key French "apres" which is the regular target of all kinds of sneers here on SHs. In fact, there is far more frequent criticism of French "apres" than of the Austria variety.
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@pam w, but no one said what you accused them of. So it's a bit unfair to put words in their mouth.

Neither Taps, Griabli or KKs are renowned as being quiet places to enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sunset.

Quieter than Mooserwirt, but plenty of party in all of them.

But if you want a quiet glass and the sunset that's fine too.

And why do you imply this is somehow about Austrian versus French après? It was about different busy après bars in St Anton. No one mentioned France at all until you did.
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@nozawaonsen, well, the implication was quite clear that the people who'd been critical of the mooserwirt were MOGs.

And you made a very general point criticising those who sneered at other people enjoying themselves, with no reference to anything on this thread. I agreed with it, but pointed out that the sneering - on this thread and elsewhere - cuts both ways.
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