 Poster: A snowHead
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Does anybody out there happen to have any information about the delta/ ramp angle for the new(ish) Marker Kingpin binding? In particular when combined with Dynafit Vulcan boots?
Cheers
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@HammondR, i had a couple of days on a pair last spring (thanks to SAS temporarily diverting my ski bag en route to Lofoten), and on a purely feel basis they seemed not dissimilar to my Plum Yaks which are relatively flat (certainly compared to radicals/verticals...).
Not very scientific, but I am normally quite sensitive to overly- ramped bindings.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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PS skiing Mercurys so same same for a Vulcan I imagine.
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@offpisteskiing,
My word that was quick! I understand that the Vulcans & Mercury are the same in this respect.
Thanks
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@HammondR, Marker haven't detailed the ramp angle in any of their Kingpin literature ( ). They do have noticeable ramp angle though contrary to initial rumours of them being neutral. From memory after handling them a while back I'd take a punt at about 9/10mm but I'll be able to measure them when my Kingpin stock arrives in a few weeks.
And yes, the Vulcan & the Mercury are essentially identical apart from flex (and cost!).
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@spyderjon, Thanks Jon. Any likelihood that you might be in the business of supplying shims for the toe pieces before next season? Having said that, as the Kingpin heel does not use pins, might fiddling with shims at the toe piece affect how the heel works?
I must arrange to have some new skis pampered at your establishment in the near future and get to the bottom of this.
Thanks
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@HammondR, there's no problem shimming the Kingpin toe & the heel function is unaffected - it's basically just an alpine heel. If my stock Vist 2mm, 3mm or 4mm shims (or combinations of) aren't the correct footprint then I have acrylic sheet in stock from which I can make them. The only potential issue is longer screws if they end up needing to be an unusual length although this isn't a problem at all if they're mounted with Quiver Killer inserts.
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| Quote: |
longer screws if they end up needing to be an unusual length although this isn't a problem at all if they're mounted with Quiver Killer inserts.
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I decided to go for the Marker Kingpins to replace my Marker Barons, which I have been very happy with but are undoubtedly heavy either strapped to your back or after 2 hours skinning! I bought a pair a month or so ago from Germany and intend to mount them with quiver killers and have been experimenting with mounting them on a piece of 4x2 first before drilling the skis.
My initial impressions are:
Mounting using the downloadable template was spot on with my boot centre being right over the centre line and the heel piece being well in front of the "stop". Boots are Scarpa Freedom sl @ 317mm. I don't know how this would work for much smaller or larger boots, I guess you might have to adjust the toe section to suit.
When using Quiver Killers one will need several different sizes of screws: 4 @ about 13mm for the toe piece, 1 @ 10mm for the centre mount, 2 @ 18mm for through the brake section, 2 @ 8mm for the rear holes. This should all leave about 5-8mm protruding to seat into the insert. Not the end of the world but a bit of a fiddle....
When you change the binding from one pair of skis to another the heel piece has to be removed completely to get at the screws. Not in itself a problem, but it does mean retensioning the heel piece at every change, so you need your boot handy, and the tensioner is a worm running on slots in the plastic/carbon/composite base so wear to this part might be an issue.
So I can see changeovers being not as simple as with the Barons, but the bindings look and feel good especially the solid alpine feel of the heel piece - no idea how they ski though! Others' experiences/feedback in due course will be interesting
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@inspark, QK screws should protrude a min of 4.5mm & a max of 5.5mm from the underside of the binding. If the bindings you've bought don't have the latest toe piece design then send them back for replacement (under warranty) as there were problems with the initial design and they should not be skied. Also ensure that you have adjusted the toe pins correctly.
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| Quote: |
QK screws should protrude a min of 4.5mm & a max of 5.5mm from the underside of the binding
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Thanks for the info, if I could only see to measure .5mm with my eyes I'd be happy! I'm sure you will supply the correct screws with the QKs in due course...
My main thought was the fact that various different screw lengths are required, which is more of a concern than with the Barons where the screws are all the same. Some of the awkward places I've swapped over the bindings leads me to think a whole extra spare set would be a good idea!
The toe piece pins give the impression of being the updated version with the knurled appearance. I''m not seeing any adjustment that can be made to the pins though
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@inspark, I've QK mounted a few pairs of the first/pre-production Kingpin bindings & the QK screw spec was:
Toes: 8no. 12mm csk flat heads with heads reduced to 8mm dia
Lever & rear heel: 6no. 8mm csk flat heads
Front heel: 4no. 18mm csk flat heads
I'm presuming that the pucka production will be the same but they have made a few changes so I can't confirm the spec until I get the bindings in stock.
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Sun 6-09-15 8:47; edited 2 times in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@spyderjon,
Krikey Jon,
18 screws, in 3 different lengths (if I understand you correctly). That sounds like a QK nightmare for someone like me. I was convinced I would die following remounting my Marker F10's (9 screws the same length)!
Is the Beast 14 simpler?
Cheers.
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Thanks very much for that Jon.
Food for thought indeed. I will send you an email about my timetable for alignment and balance checking, and to enquire about prices.
Regards
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Poster: A snowHead
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@inspark, I've now sussed out the Quiver Killer screw spec for the production Kingpin which is slighty different to that of the pre-production model. The correct spec is:
Toes: 8no. 12mm csk flat heads with heads reduced to 8mm dia
Lever & rear heel: 6no. 8mm csk flat heads
Front heel: 4no. 18mm csk flat heads
[quote="inspark"]
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| ....The toe piece pins give the impression of being the updated version with the knurled appearance. I''m not seeing any adjustment that can be made to the pins though |
Sorry, my mistake. I meant to say to ensure that the two pressed metal toe 'stops' are correctly adjusted.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Darn that of a lot of ramp on the kingpins. Has anyone tried to make them more with some site of spacer?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Apingaut wrote: |
| Darn that of a lot of ramp on the kingpins. Has anyone tried to make them more with some site of spacer? |
I'm assuming you mean using toe shims to reduce the delta? If so that's not a problem assuming you can find appropriately longer screws of the correct head style/diameter etc. Or if you mount 'em with Quiver Killer inserts then shims/longer screws are a doddle.
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Hi! I have been following this thread as I am experimenting with lowering the delta angle of my kingpins. @Spyderjon, I see in your pictures that you used a very different ski for comparing the kingpins to the Dynafits. I am suspecting that this may have an effect on your comparison.
Looks like the Volkls that you have the Dynafits on have a vertical sidewall that stays pretty constant height between heel and toe. The cap construction ski you have the Kingpins on looks like the sidewall may get thinner towards the toe, which would effectively lower the toe height and increase the delta you are measuring. Any way you could check that?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@GOB, My quoted measurements were adjusted to allow for ski thickness.
@GOB, @Apingaut, As it happens the production Kingpin did change and the delta is 9.5mm when measured with a Mercury/Vulcan boot.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Great! Good to know. Thanks for following up. I'm going to start with a 3.2mm shim under the toe to bring it up a bit and the delta down, and see how that feels. I may go further. I have a relatively short BSL, 295 (25.5 boot), so I think the ramp is magnified for me.
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Hi Jon! what thickness shims have you usually been going with for the kingpins? I have both the 3.2 and the 4.7mm from B and D. I'm looking to match my salomon wardens for consistency. From blister (and I got similar measurements), looks like the warden heel is a at 24.5mm and toe is at 21mm, for a delta of 3.5 mm.
I'm thinking my boots may have a little less rocker than the mercurys, which I think would mean a little less delta with the kingpins. I don't have inserts on my skis, so I kind of only get one shot at this!
Thanks for your input!
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@GOB, go with the thicker of the two shims. I presume that you've got the correspondingly longer screws as well?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks, Jon - yeah, I've got 19mm screws.
Do you think it would be worth going thicker, the 6.2mm shims? or even combining the 4.7 and 3.2? (would obviously need longer screws)
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I'd try the 4.7mm first so you're not losing too much climb bar effectiveness. Don't over torque the screws to ensure that you've got a good thread in case you do want to go with a thicker shim. All the Kingpin shim jobs I've done have been 5mm and all the users were very pleased with the results.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Great, thanks so much for the advice!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Skied with the 4.7mm shim for the past 2 days, binding felt great.
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@GOB, 
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FAQ
