 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi, looking for advice on ski preparation, waxes and edges (not binding boot sizing or DIN ratings). BTW, I also have a seperate question in another thread re on going maintenance.
I decided to get the skis from the UK, the intention is to use them on Xscape slope. I getting confliction 'advice from the two ski shops concerned. Shop 1 stated no initial maintenance required (edges and wax) "they have a factory prep" and that I should wait 3 to 4 days. Shop 2 stated they should be fully prepared on day 1, and on no account should they be used without additional work. BTW. hey aren't going to do the work for for nothing so there is a cost implication. Main concerns are: Are they usable and will I do harm? 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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fraserp, that sounds reasonable. Factory prep means the edges are ready to go, so don't bother with them. The wax on the base is more there to protect the skis during transport and shop storage, but it is OK to ski on. My normal practice is to re-wax the bases before hitting the slopes on day one.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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fraserp, you didn't expect consensus on a forum did you  Seriously though my distillation of the various sometimes diametrically opposed views is sometimes the factory protective wax is enough for a slide or two, sometimes it just isn't. Safest thing is to get a wax. BTW Xscape "snow" is very abrasive, and you'll probably only get several hours of skiing max from each wax. Edges should be sharp from the factory but the angles may actually be inexact (spyderjon reported in a previous maintenance thread). I've never had a problem though.
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fraserp,
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BTW Xscape "snow" is very abrasive, and you'll probably only get several hours of skiing max from each wax
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I agree with slikedges, on this one. Xscape seems to suck the wax out in a hour, for me 
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fraserp, just to clarify by "additional work" all the other threads were discussing was the benefits of hot waxing new skis, a very simple process. I don't think anyone would recommend base and edge tuning on new skis unless they have a particular requirement for a non-factory tune.
Hot waxing is a simple diy job if a bit messy, just requires a small outlay for an iron, wax, scraper and brush. Very theraputic process.
If you don't go for the hot wax get some cold top up wax to use on your trip, the factory wax is likely to be pretty tired afetr a few days.
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fraserp, Welcome to snowHeads. Welcome to the often contradictory world of ski tuning. Like yourself I received conflicting advice but after plenty of research & advice from experienced tuners on both this forum & Epicski my view for new skis are as follows:
Most recreational skis (ie not race skis) are shipped from the factory with the base & side angles fully prepped & ready to ski. However you need to ascertain what these angles are so that you can manitain them at the correct angle in the future.
The factory wax is another matter & varies with different manufacturers, but it is really for protection rather than performance. It might last half a day to a few days. However, new skis also arrive at the store with plenty of graphite dust in the pores and coarse microscopic hairs on the base left from the original grind.
Therefore it's best to perform a 'hot scrape' on new skis & repeat a further 4/5 times as the base needs 'loading up' with wax to give better protection, speed & control. Use a warm, low melting point wax as they perform an excellent clean & have great penetration in a new base. Even better are the specific waxes just for this purpose like Dominator Zoom Renew or Holmonkol Base Prep.
For one of the scrape cycles use a very cold temperature wax & let it cool before scraping. The hard wax will grip the p-tex hairs left on the base & pull them out when scraped off, something that a soft wax can't do. Occasional future applications of cold waxes are needed to eliminate coarseness from a base.
BTW, serious racers may do 40/50 waxes & scrape cycles on their new race skis.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| spyderjon wrote: |
Most recreational skis (ie not race skis) are shipped from the factory with the base & side angles fully prepped & ready to ski. However you need to ascertain what these angles are so that you can manitain them at the correct angle in the future. |
That's not true, the base/side angles are a question of choice based on the preference and ability of the skier, not something for the manufacturer to choose and be adhered to for all time.
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| ise wrote: |
| That's not true, the base/side angles are a question of choice based on the preference and ability of the skier, not something for the manufacturer to choose and be adhered to for all time. |
I agree, just didn't want to complicate matters - as I'm often accused of when it comes to tuning.
I assume that the manufacturers design & set the angles to give optimum performance/durability for the type of ski & the likely ability of the users. Most skiers then demo, like, buy & then use skis with these factory angles - therefore it's important to know what they are so that those angles can be maintained, either by a store tune or by DIY.
As you say, the user can of course alter the angles to give differing performance characteristics. Angle changes will also increase the wear to the edges.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| spyderjon wrote: |
I assume that the manufacturers design & set the angles to give optimum performance/durability for the type of ski & the likely ability of the users. Most skiers then demo, like, buy & then use skis with these factory angles - therefore it's important to know what they are so that those angles can be maintained, either by a store tune or by DIY. |
I've not made a study of it but I doubt that as well. I'd rather hope that the factory angles represent the neutral state from which an angle can be set; if that's not true then it's a pain as you're going to be reducing the life of the edges by going from, say, 88' back to 89', it seems to make more sense to leave angles at 0/90. As for testing, I can't see that either, unless you're the first guy on the first day then the angle's going to run at whatever the store sets them to. A good store will know this, IIRC when I bought our stöckli's they mentioned the demo angles were at 2' I think and the factory angle was neutral.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| ise wrote: |
| I've not made a study of it but I doubt that as well. I'd rather hope that the factory angles represent the neutral state from which an angle can be set |
I agree but if that was the case why do the various manufacturers have differing shipping angles? An Atomic rep told me that they ship all their skis set to 1/3 because that was how they were designed to be skied.
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FAQ
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snowHeads 
, i'll have some supplimentary work done. Hopefully this will get the best out of the gear and not spend unnecessary cash ling the ski mechanics pockets in Courchevel! Hay ho, 14 days to go.... 
