Resorts within striking distance of Geneva

A snowHead

I started another thread about an Italian trip for the 2015 season but I'm taking a step back and looking at logistics. The flights to Geneva are pretty good and work out well from Boston so I'm wondering what are the options from that airport. It looks like there is regular bus service to a number of resorts in France and Italy which would meet our needs. We're two advanced skiers looking for varied off-piste terrain, enough terrain to keep us busy for a week, some good lodging and dining options but we're not looking for night life or instruction.

Thanks again,

-dave-

A snowHead

yad, oh, lordy. Too many options.

In no particular order

Chamonix (best for off piste but depending on high mountain skills a guide may be a good idea, at least for some routes)

Portes du Soleil (e.g. Morzine, Avoriaz)
Grand Massif (Flaine, Les Carroz)

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

I suspect that there will be dozens of options. Let me help limit things a bit. In 2013 we went to Lech/Zurs and had a great time. But I think we'd be happier this time in a smaller, less fancy area. A smaller village that has options but isn't overwhelming.

We would definitely hire a guide for serious off-piste days. We did so in Lech and it was well worth it.

I'd already started looking at Grand Massif. Is Chamonix overwhelming? I'll take a look at Portes du Soleil. Thanks for the info and please, would love to hear more options to investigate.

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yad, Chamonix isn't overwhelming - it's a much bigger town (the whole valley has around 12,000 permanent inhabitants) but the skiing uplift is somewhat more North American (long lifts, multiple routes down). I don't think you'd have a problem with it.

Both Grand Massif and Portes du Soleil have lots of fairly accessible side and lift served off piste but don't generally require guides (no, or few, glaciers, not really "high mountain" skiing by European standards). Both have loads of touring though. As you'd imagine.

A couple of hours further from Geneva St Foy might be an option - I've not visited but it used to be (apparently) a bit of an off piste mecca, although it has developed itself in a family oriented direction (not that the off piste will have gone anywhere Happy

)

If you are in that neck of the woods, Espace Killy (Val d'Isere or Tignes) definitely worth checking out as are these guys http://www.alpineexperience.com/information/35/meet-the-guides

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Insiders, Morzine's my favourite. Avoriaz brings something a little different and is PdS central.

You don't think I'd be recommending Chatel do you? wink

I mean, I hardly know the village. It will be interesting to see how perceptions change once the new lifts connect_by_ski_lift Linga and Chatel.

Previously, it would be reasonable to consider Linga as part of the Avoriaz domain, were one that way inclined (lift passes notwithstanding)... Twisted Evil

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yad, How far do you want to travel from Geneva? As above comments there's lots within a reasonable striking distance. How about Verbier and the 4 valleys? Verbier is around 2hrs drive from GVA. Great pistes, great off piste, itineries. It can be a bit lively and expensive but I think it's worth it. Zermatt a bit further. Never been but it's on the to do list.

After all it is free

Logistics could be difficult unless you hire a car, yad but I reckon that La Grave should be high on your list of options.

3 hours by car, small town, one lift, no pistes, guides a plenty.

altis, yep.

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yad, if you really want to venture away from the "fancy" to "la France profonde" you could have a look at Areches-Beaufort. Do you read French? This is a comparison between St Foy and Areches http://www.skiinfo.fr/actualites/a/589884/ski-hors-piste---ar%C3%AAches-beaufort-vs-sainte-foy-tarentaise

I've not skied at St Foy. Areches has only a small pisted area (50 kms) with nothing much for advanced skiers - but as the linked article says Le point fort du domaine est qu'il regorge de spots freeride facilement accessibles : combes sauvages, couloirs et forêts font le plaisir des freerideurs.

In Areches you would probably find you were amongst a very tiny minority of non-French skiers. When I've been there (on piste) and stopped in a restaurant for lunch it was very noticeable that practically all the skis stacked up outside were touring skis.

If you don't speak any French it might just be a bit too different.

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But you would also find that, unlike in the more famous off-piste spots, all the best stuff won't be tracked out a few hours after a snowfall.

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In Grand Massif, Les Carroz would match what you've described. Less than an hour from Geneva, nice 'proper' town with plenty of accommodation and dining options, good bus service in town (not very much ski in, ski out here), and right in the centre of the GM.

Flaine is higher, but it's not a town, just a collection of apartments and shops/restaurants. Samoens is a lovely town, but you are right down in the valley and reliant upon a single cable car to take you up to the slopes.

pam w, That's an interesting call. Liking the cut of your jib.

You know it makes sense.

Wow, lots of good information to digest. I speak some French, enough to get around in Paris but it would be interesting in a quieter village. I suspect I'd be more comfortable than my wife, who hasn't traveled as much. It's trying to find that balance that allows enough choices but not full blown tourist central that's going to be hard until we actually are on the ground.

We had a great time off-piste in Lech, the run down from Valluga was one the best I've ever had. I'm not sure if nasty couloirs is our bread and butter, but we'd certainly go with a guide for a day if he or she thought our skills were up to it. I think we'll probably do more guided days this trip. For us East Coast US skiers there's really not enough time in avy terrain to gain the experience we would need to go without guides.

A good friend has gone to La Grave multiple times and spent the whole time with a guide skiing all sorts of interesting terrain. But they go with a small group of regulars so there's more social interaction than it would be with just me and my wife.

I think we'd be comfortable with 2-4 hours by bus/train from Geneva, I'd love to keep it under 2 hours. We don't want to rent a car, once we arrive I want to use the local buses if we need to visit nearby areas. It worked great in Lech/Zurs/St Anton.

If we can duplicate this we'll be happy skiers:

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

yad, check out Grimentz, a very small village with plenty of off piste, few queues and a handful of good IFGMA. guides. Ticks a number of boxes unless you are after a big name destination in which case Chamonix, Verbier, Zermatt and Val dIsere need to be checked.

A snowHead

How about Les Diablerets which is about 2 hours direct by train from GVA.

For some other ideas have a slide around:
http://openpistemap.org/

To track down the best public transport options use:
http://www.bahn.de/p_en/view/index.shtml
or
http://www.sbb.ch/en/home.html

Be aware that trains for the French resorts around Chamonix are from Eaux Vives, a tiny station the other side of Geneva - and a train and tram journey from the airport. For Cham it's easiest to travel by one of the frequent coaches - try:
http://www.altibus.com/airport/geneva-airport-ra2_en.aspx

A snowHead

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Everyone is right about the enormous list of options. You really are spoilt for choice. We all have our personal favourites-here is my list: (in no particular order)
Zermatt is 3hrs 30 by train from Geneva- though little longer than your preferred travel time, it's dead easy and such an iconic location. Be prepared for lovely hotels, extensive skiing including into Italy, and high prices.
I second the recommendations for Grimentz too, though I think you would have to get a bus up the hill from Sion station. It's very quiet. Tiny village and good value for Switzerland compared with Zermatt,
Les Carroz is a very nice village-not particularly chocolate boxy pretty, but attractive, and links up to Flaine for more extensive skiing and off piste opportunities. If you can face hiring a car, there are so many other options just down the road (so you could drive round to Chamonix in under an hour and do the Vallee Blanche-guide needed).
You don't say when you plan to travel. Be warned-French school holidays over 4 weeks in Feb and early March, especially the Paris week and the one which coincides with UK, or Belgian or Dutch based half term weeks are busy!
If you are still thinking of Italy- we have just returned from a summer "research" trip to Gressoney la Trinite. The combined slopes of the Monterosa ski area, plus the obvious off piste opportunities has put this destination firmly on our list for this winter. Lovely quiet village, friendly hotels. Sensible prices and just about 2 hours from Milan Malpensa airport by car.
Back to France and my own personal fave, and I guess about 2 hours 30 -3 hours by bus from Geneva, is St Martin de Belleville. It is in the 3 Valllees, which some snowheads off piste experts may be rather sniffy about, but the ski area is sooo huge, there is stacks of lift served off piste, and plenty of guides who can take you away from the lifts. The village is very attractive, still feels like a proper village, but has enough restaurants and bars to keep you happy.
A good reference book which you should be able to get on amazon is -Where to Ski and Snowboard- it comes out annually, and I expect here are recent editions going cheap. I find leafing through it a rather nice guilt pleasure. It should certainly help you orientate yourself and see what is on offer.

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Perty, I don't think Zermatt would qualify as "less fancy" than Lech/Zurs. wink

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yad, I would also suggest you get a copy of where to ski and snowboard. The new addition is about to come out so you might get last years cheaper. I normally buy a copy every two years as I like the read. The local main library should have a copy as well

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I must confess that I always found "where to ski and snowboard" (I do own one copy) a bit not very good.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

After all it is free

kat.ryb, I found the information rather dated and somewhat stereotyped. And not very helpful.

But hten, I've never wanted "bog standard ... ... ski trip" and who would?

http://www.ultimate-ski.com/ used to be much more useful but doesn't seem to be being updated so much...

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yad,

you have many options from Geneva, lots of them good, but if I was coming all the way from Boston and were "two advanced skiers looking for varied off-piste terrain, enough terrain to keep us busy for a week, some good lodging and dining options" I wouldn't look further than Chamonix. History, scenery, atmosphere as well as terrain (enough for a lifetime never mind a week!). Good eating options in Chamonix itself. I'd budget to take a guide for a day so you can see a bit more of the area than you would likely feel comfortable on your own.

That's not intended to down play the attractions of PDS or GM just that I think Chamonix would give you the richest flavour of the Alps.

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jedster, well said.

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The Monterosa ski area - Champoluc, Gressoney etc is good for off-piste and heli-skiing. Food up the mountain was not good when I was there about 10 years ago but it is within easy reach of Geneva, Turin or Milan airports and hotel options are quite good from memory.

under a new name, I had suggested the book as there are so many places you could get to from GVA, and it is a useful overview. I agree that it does not go into too much detail as it covers so many places. I found it handy in the past when I have never heard of most of the places, and my first trips were package deals - I suppose it just helps for you to start somewhere

You know it makes sense.

chrisb, I suppose it does. I just found that it was so wrong (or misguided) about anywhere I knew well. Or gave far too much weight to the usual nonsense (height always matters, etc.)

Gordyjh, In 10 years the on mountain dining has (in places) much improved. Rascard Frantze above Champoluc leaps to mind. Very, very good indeed in a lovely setting (I think). Also Eric's new place just off Ostafa, the name of which escapes me.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

under a new name, yes very much agree with you on the emphasis on height, which is of course a classic line in any tour operator brochure as well. Height was certainly not an issue in Scotland last year.

A snowHead

chrisb, From some pics on here I think it's still not an issue snowHead

A snowHead

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

yad, Chamonix, although it's a big, busy, place is not "fancy" in the way that some resorts are - it's exciting rather, with so many genuine gnarly mountain men knocking around, and not too many mink coats and darling little dogs. Because many people there are doing a lot of skiing on rather little money, it's not got that irritating "rich man's playground" vibe though obviously there are expensive restaurants etc if you want to seek them out.

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Perty, at risk of thread creep (he he he) many of the Monterosa restaurants, although perfectly fine and good vfm compared with France, have only snack bar menus. And those menus can be quite similar.

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Insiders, why is it ridiculous? And it's not misinformation. Linga is directly linked to Avoriaz by chairlift and (currently) only to Chatel by bus. Stands to reason. And how on earth is Chatel the "little" guy? the "little guy" in this case would surely have to be Avoriaz which doesn't even have a population big enough to have its own mayor.

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under a new name, ok, put it like this... Super Morzine is linked to Pleney by the Petite train, or by walking not by lifts, and Pleney is linked in with Lets Gets, not the other side of Morzine... Does this mean that Avoriaz can claim Super Morzine as its own, and Lets Gets claim Pleney... No, it doesn't... Linga is in an entirely different Valley than Avoriaz and is not only separated by TWO Mountains, but by Linderets aswell... Just because Linga hasn't had a lift linking Super Chatel and Linga Ski Areas it does not mean that suddenly Linga could belong to Avoriaz...

You'd have to BE in Chatel to ski from Linga, ergo, Linga belongs to Chatel.... SIMPLES Evil or Very Mad

After all it is free

AND, Avoriaz doesn't have a Mayor because it's technically an Offshoot of Morzine, built on the cliffs above Morzine some 60 odd years ago by the powers that be... It's a purpose built resort, not an actual town - although some poor soles do live there year round no doubt. I'm sure somewhere there's some note saying that Avoriaz is a commune of Morzine... therefore the Mayor of Morzine probably has final say regards development etc...

Avoriaz is a famous enough resort, lots of people have been to Avoriaz - I know many myself. But Chatels reputation is not on the same stage as Avoriaz or Morzine, these 2 think they own the PDS and that all the Skiing in the PDS belongs to them, and them alone - your thoughts on the Linga prove this fact.

If you were to ask a huge crowd of none snowheads to name 3 resorts in the PDS Morzine, Lets Gets and Avoriaz would probably be the ones most mentioned - a small fraction mentioning some of the other resorts. I refer to Chatel as the little guy, because it is often forgotten about in terms of the other more noisy neighbours in the PDS, not because of it's population or size.

Spoiler we are about to go totally off piste Happy

Insiders, actually... just to straighten out your facts:

The Morzine-Les Gets lift pass does not cover Super Morzine. The Avoriaz one does. So very much yes, Avoriaz "claims" Super Morzine and to an extent Les Gets "claims" Pleney. Or, Pleney "claims" Les Gets.

Lindarets doesn't separate anything as the Avoriaz boundary runs along that ridge.

"You'd have to BE in Chatel to ski from Linga" is not in fact "simples", but simply makes no sense. We frequently ski Linga... from Avoriaz.

Avoriaz doesn't have a mayor as it doesn't have a large enough resident population to justify one. Actually, some years it does and a few years ago there was a campaign for it to split from Morzine and have it's own administration but the campaign failed. Not entirely sure why (I wasn't sufficiently interested to pay attention).

It was built not by any powers that be (who are they then?) but by French playboy Gerard Bremont (who founded Pierre et Vacances) at the request of local golden boy Jean Vuarnet who had been asked by Morzine to develop the ski area. Purely as a commercial venture and built on land that was in the Morzine commune.

Chatel may well not have the same reputation today as Morzine or Avoriaz, but it was of similar reputation in 1989 or so. If that's changed now, whose fault might it be? Anyway I am far from convinced that it's less well known. Why don't you provide something to back that up - like winter visitor stats?

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