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Ski Honeymoon in the Alps - February 2015 - want to ski two countries, or more - where to go?

 Poster: A snowHead
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Hello SnowHeads!

This is my first post in the forum, and I thank you in advance for your advice and patience.

My fiance and I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada, and we are planning our honeymoon for February 2015, which will hopefully involve lots of skiing in the Alps and delicious food and drink. We have never been to the Alps, and as skiers, this is a bucket list item. We have booked our plane tickets and will fly into Zurich on Thurs, Feb 5, 2015, arriving at 8pm, and will depart from Zurich at 11:30am on Thurs, Feb 19, 2015. Right now, the plan is to spend 1 night in Zurich, travel to ski resort #1 for 5 or 6 days, travel to ski resort #2 for 5 or 6 days, and then spend 1 or 2 nights in Zurich before returning home.

Our hope is to stay in 2 different ski resorts during our trip, and be able to ski in at least 2 different countries, or ideally, 3 different countries, if possible. The thought of skiing from one country into another (as in at Portes du Soleil, or Zermatt/Cervinia) is definitely appealing as this isn't possible where we live in Canada. However, we do not want to spend endless hours in transit, and would prefer to travel mostly by train (rather than by bus). It would be nice to take a scenic train route as part of our trip (i.e. the Glacier Express or the Bernina Express), but the priority is definitely skiing, and spending more time in the villages rather than on the train / in transit.

My fiance is an expert skier (he can ski anything, and used to be a ski racer), and I am a strong intermediate skier (I can ski most North American blues, and wide open, but steep North American blacks...still working on improving at moguls). To give you an idea of the sorts of mountains we are used to/prefer for skiing vacations, we love skiing at Whistler, both in terms of the diversity and range of runs and for the ski-in/ski-out village with lots of non-skiing activities. Other favourite mountains include Lake Louise (Alberta) and Big White (BC) for the runs and the snow, but neither mountain is preferred for its "village". Neither of us have any backcountry / off-piste experience, and to be honest, we don't particularly like to push ourselves hard during skiing vacations (i.e. we typically only ski half-days during vacation, or take it pretty easy in terms of skiing after lunch).

We're hoping to ski in Alps resorts which have ski-in/ski-out access (i.e. where we do not have to take a bus to start our skiing day - although taking a tram or a lift at the beginning or end of our day would not be a dealbreaker). It is also important the resort be walkable, have great apres-ski and excellent restaurants and bars (we are foodies). We are not nightclub-folks, so there need not be huge discos or clubs in the resort. In terms of accommodation, we're looking at 4 star hotels or above (it is our honeymoon, after all!) with great spas.

In doing our research, we have identified the following ski resorts as ones that appeal to us:
    St Anton, Austria
    Chamonix, France (less ideal in terms of skiing because it is not ski-in/ski-out, but the village is very appealing for apres-ski and non-ski-activities and the history of the town)
    Portes du Soleil, France (could stay on the Swiss side if it is more convenient for travel - perhaps Champery or Morgins?)
    Zermatt, Switzerland / Cervinia, Italy
    Wengen or Grindelwald, Switzerland


The Austrian Alps are on the top of our list, if only because of cost - the Swiss Alps look amazing, but also seem prohibitively expensive in terms of hotel and food cost. We are really eager to ski PDS, but it seems complicated to get to the French Alps by train alone if one is starting from Switzerland. It seems inconvenient to get to the Italian Alps from Zurich, particularly if we are combining another region into our trip, but perhaps Zermatt/Cervinia is an option?

We will be bringing our ski boots, but will be renting skis at the various resorts.

Thank you in advance for your advice on which of the above resorts - or other resorts - would meet our needs, as well as suggestions for towns/hotels to stay in for these areas. Much appreciated!
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St Anton - Innsbruck (for a day/night) - Dolomites (In Italy, but in reality basically Tirolean)?

Ischgl is a bit like St Anton in many ways, but maybe a bit more... Russian. Great resort though, better piste skiing than St Anton, has some great restaurants, and you can ski into Switzerland (Samnaun). From there it would also be easy to head to the Dolomites too, which are some of the most dramatic mountains in Europe.

St Anton to Geneva airport is fairly painless on the train (I've only done it from Innsbruck, but that's just one hour further to the East on the same line), which goes right through Zurich. From Geneva there are plenty of options to get to the PdS. St Anton to Geneva (Genf in German) is 5 and a half hours on the train, with 1 or 2 changes, according to: http://fahrplan.oebb.at/bin/query.exe/en?ld=19&seqnr=5&ident=dx.028392180.1399412007&REQ0HafasScrollDir=1
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Lauonlaw, welcome to Snowheads snowHead

Zermatt definitely ticks a lot of your boxes and I'm sure there will be lots of info forthcoming. I've been there twice and would rate it highly as a skiing honeymoon destination.

But as you are wanting to ski the PDS, a couple of thoughts.... I'm pretty sure the nearest train station for the Swiss resorts is Aigle, looks to be three hours from Zurich, and then it's a short car transfer up the hill less than 30 mins. To the best of my knowledge there are no 4* hotels with spa etc in Morgins, though Morgins is a pretty little town. Just along is Val d'Iliez which has a large thermal baths/spa complex which is really lovely, you can stay there in apartments http://www.thermes-parc.com/en or there is this very nice looking place in Les Crosets http://www.mountain-lodge.co.uk/winter.html This would be a decent enough Swiss base for the PDS circuit. On the French side (same rail station) in Chatel there is a 4* Hotel http://www.hotelmacchi.com/l-accueil_de_l-hotel_macchi_dans_la_vallee_d-abondance.html though much as I love Chatel, I can't quite see it as a honeymoon destination. There will be other Snowheads who can comment better on other PDS resorts.

Happy planning snowHead
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Zurich to St Anton is also easy by train (OBB RailJet).

All European resorts are walkable by North American standards -- slopeside hotel versus a 5 minute free ski-bus ride versus hotel that supplies a smartly dressed driver is just a matter of budget...

First decision probably has to be how much travelling you want to do. Presumably train / public transport is preferred? Criss-crossing to St Anton and then back to Geneva is a long journey by train and will write off a day, but with a Swiss rail pass say you could break the journey and ski (and eat) for the odd half day in a resort or two along the way. But you would be paying in Swiss Francs.

As you're flying to Zurich, to experience a few different resorts at that time of year without spending too much time/money in Switzerland I think clarky999's suggestion of St Anton and then the Dolomites is hard to beat: perhaps add a couple of days in a (small?) Swiss resort to break things up and tick off another country.
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Thank you SnowHeads! mtsuit, yes, train is preferred (with bus a distant second). If only we had the funds for a ski safari or to be helicoptered around the Alps...one can dream. Razz From a cost-perspective, I agree that it would be beneficial to spend as little time/money in Switzerland as possible.

Any recommendations for small-ish Swiss resorts close to Zurich (other than Wengen) for a couple of days?

I will also look at the threads on the Dolomites for suggestions for that region - great suggestion!
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Lauonlaw, welcome to SHs.

We're off to Whistler (our favourite resort and one we have been to year after year) / Vancouver for Christmas this year, can't wait.

My suggestions would be as follows / all done by train from Zurich :

Murren (across the valley from Wengen)
Picturesque / car free in winter. My wife and I escaped our kids for a long weekend a couple of years ago, stayed at the Hotel Eiger. I think there's something magical about Murren, the views across the valley to the Eiger, the Jungfrau and the Monch, the snow covered paths and the skiing is not bad either. You can also, of course, hop across the valley to ski Wengen / Grindelwald.

Zermatt / Cervinia
Zermatt is a cracking village with a number of high-end hotels. Great skiing (albeit a bit dis-jointed), amazing views and fab food. An ideal honeymoon destination.

Good luck Smile
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sarah wrote:
But as you are wanting to ski the PDS, a couple of thoughts.... I'm pretty sure the nearest train station for the Swiss resorts is Aigle, looks to be three hours from Zurich, and then it's a short car transfer up the hill less than 30 mins.

There is a train from Aigle up to Champery, it also stops in Val d'Iliez.
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Zermatt is one of those resorts that everyone should do at least once in their lives. The skiing is varied and the views of the Matterhorn are breathtaking. It's hard to look beyond there when you list your criteria.

You could then look to travel into Austria via part of the glacier express route and look at St Anton.
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rjs wrote:
sarah wrote:
But as you are wanting to ski the PDS, a couple of thoughts.... I'm pretty sure the nearest train station for the Swiss resorts is Aigle, looks to be three hours from Zurich, and then it's a short car transfer up the hill less than 30 mins.

There is a train from Aigle up to Champery, it also stops in Val d'Iliez.


rjs doh! Thanks, yes and I've seen it from the hot pool at val d'Iliez Laughing
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Lauonlaw wrote:
Thank you SnowHeads! mtsuit, yes, train is preferred (with bus a distant second). If only we had the funds for a ski safari or to be helicoptered around the Alps...one can dream. Razz From a cost-perspective, I agree that it would be beneficial to spend as little time/money in Switzerland as possible.

Any recommendations for small-ish Swiss resorts close to Zurich (other than Wengen) for a couple of days?

I will also look at the threads on the Dolomites for suggestions for that region - great suggestion!


Resorts close to Zurich would include Laax-Flims, Lenzerheide-Arosa, Splugen. If you are heading south to the dollies from Zurich it'd be easy to stop into any of these on the way there or back. I'd strongly recommend Lenzerheide for the type of skiing you are looking for, particularly the side with the link to Arosa, newly upgraded and brilliant fun to ski with plenty of decent blacks, reds, blues and a small but pretty nice town. Switzerland isn't as expensive as you may fear, its really only eating out can be eyewatering, but there tends to be a pretty consistent and reasonable quality in general i have found. It also has the advantage of by and large empty pistes, particularly compared with france. Zermatt for a honeymoon is a bit of a no brainer, spectacular with some great dining options as well. Flying into Zurich gives you plenty of options though, so good luck with the planning!
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Lauonlaw, welcome to snowheads. snowHead The French school holidays start on 7 February for 4 weeks. Given that you can't do everything you want I'd suggest you forget the PdS (which will be busy that week and frantic the next, as it's UK half term too) and take clarky999's suggestion of heading south from Innsbruck to the Dolomites - specifically, as you are piste skiers, one of the resorts on the Sella Ronda circuit. Dramatically beautiful mountains and some very cool mountain eateries. Some great Italian food at very reasonable prices.

St Anton isn't famous for its piste skiing and if you're not wanting to tackle the famous off-piste it might be a bit wasted on you (and is it the most expensive place in Europe to rent skis?).

So - you can't do everything. I'd do an Austrian resort (maybe one of the smaller, more "authentic" and less glitzy ones than Ischgl) and the Sella Ronda and forget St Anton and the PdS. Zermatt would be fantastic if the budget will stretch but.......
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+1 for Ischgl - having just returned from a week there I can't recommend the place more really.
Fantastic lift system, great hotels mostly 4-star many with spa's, and at that time of year will be ski-in ski-out right into the town.
Also you will be able to seamlessly ski in and out of Switzerland without any lift issues - and Samnaun is a lovely little town definitely worth a visit.

My other idea would be that would suit the three countries and more including a trip to Milan would be -

Train from Zurich to Zermatt - spend X number of days there skiing in both Switzerland and Italy then,
Train from Zermatt to Milan - spend 1 or 2 days sight seeing maybe see a Milan football match (soccer) Cool
Train from Milan to Oulx via Turin - stay in any of the Milky Way (Via Lattea) resorts - I would prefer Montgenevre (France), Sestriere or Claviere (Italy). Though not heralded by many these resorts are nice, fun, varied and good value resorts. The Montgenevre/Claviere end of the Via Lattea also features some of the best off piste opportunities throughout the Alps and do not get tracked out for days as most are piste skiers in this area.

At the end you could either do the reverse of the trip or fly from nearby Turin reached by train to Zurich. Flights on the Tuesday before you leave are available with Darwin Airline for about $100.

The only issues I can see maybe arising would be that most accommodation during the winter season is available on a week long basis only - but as you are looking for hotels with Spa's I think you will be looking at the end of the market that won't be fully booked. Fingers crossed.


Also, finally get booked in asap as the time you are away is the busiest period including half term week for some European countries inc the UK. Got to say though I am very jealous - I hope my OH will let me have a Ski holiday honeymoon if I ever get round to popping the question!
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I will declare an interest at the outset, as we had our honeymoon in Zermatt, and although we have skied in many lovely great places since, we have never fallen for anywhere else in quite the same way. I think the suggestions above of train to Austria and then Zermatt (or the other way round) sound fantastic. The Dolomites would be lovely too, but building that in travel wise a little more complicated (though not impossible). As you have worked out, the train system in Switzerland is fantastic and makes for a very scenic and relaxing way to travel. If you were only going to one destination and back the Swiss Transfer Ticket is very good value, but wouldn't work for multiple destinations as you plan to do.
Zermatt is of course not a budget resort, but there is accommodation at all levels, and often three stars are close to four star standard in other places. You might look at places like the Cervo, Coeur des Alpes, Omnia, Focus, Firefly for the sort of thing you describe, or the Mont Cervin or Monte Rosa for more traditional Swiss 4/5 star hospitality, but if they are beyond your budget, then there are very nice three stars that might fit the bill also. Let me know if you want some suggestions, as that is more our price point!
Hope you have a wonderful time, wherever you end up!
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A few observations

If you are foodies and are interested in the restaurants to eat out in in the evening you need to be a bit aware of the accommodation that you book , much accommodation is sold on a half board basis, staying in an expensive hotel and eating out can get expensive no matter what the country.
A personal opinion is that for foodies Italy is the country not to miss and whereas you can get perfectly pleasant food in Austria it ain't exactly foodie heaven.

If I was skiing the Arlberg on my honeymoon I would rather stay in Lech than St Anton. It is a far more attractive /romantic village, the actual piste skiing is generally in better condition. To ski the St Anton area from Lech is a short free bus trip because you get into the back of the St Anton area whereas to go ski Lech from St Anton you either have to get a long post bus or ski half way for the free bus for which there is often a huge bad tempered scrum.

For a honeymoon or any once in a lifetime trip, Zermatt probably will tick more boxes than anywhere else for most people. Stunning scenery, great skiing, fabulous mountain restaurants.
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Lauonlaw, Train to St Anton would be such a straight forward option. For best of piste skiing you need a short bus to Lech and Zurs.

Ischgl might be slightly better option for piste skiing and you can ski into Switzerland as well from there. I think you can still take the train to Landeck and then local bus.

Zermatt-Cervinia sounds great for second resort. (or Dolomites from Innsbruck by bus probably).
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Just a suggestion but if the idea of cross-border skiing is an appealing one then slightly less expensive, but as good, if not better skiing, is to be found in the Samnaun-Silvretta area of eastern Switzerland: http://www.bergfex.com/samnaun/

Well placed for flights into and out of Zurich, more so I would think than PdS to be honest.

Staying on the Silvretta side means better value for money and does fulfill the stated desire to be in the Austrian Alps (top of Lauonlaw's list apparently.
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Samerberg Sue, Ischgl was suggested. And they want some apres as well Wink
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Tom W, I think if you stay on the Samnaun side it is a "tax-free" area, so it could, despite being in Switzerland, cheaper than the Ischgl option! I have quite a few German friends who would not normally stay in Switzerland, but do actually stay in Samnaun Dorf to ski the area as it works out cheaper than Ischgl. Mind you the road up from Pfunds is a killer if you are not a good traveller. The après in Samnaun is pretty good from what I remember but I'm not someone who likes the Krazy Kangeroo/Mooserwirt full on stuff.
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Quote:

they want some apres as well

but the OP did say they are not looking for discos and clubs.
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You should take the opportunity to experience the difference to the Rockies.
Switzerland: Zermatt with a foray into Cervinia (Italy) for lunch; also don't neglect Wengen/Murren
Austria: Lech with a day out to St Anton to experience The KK/Mooserwirt
Italy: Sella Ronda (anywhere)
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pam w wrote:
but the OP did say they are not looking for discos and clubs.

But they must do Apres if they go to Austria, if only one time
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I agree with all the recommendations for Zermatt/Cervinia. A classic Swiss resort (including traditional cog railway, and a town centre with every other shop selling multi-thousand SF Swiss watches). A trip to Chamonix would also be good - another iconic resort with a huge alpine mountaineering history - but getting around can be a pain. You could hire a small car at the airport for not very much money, which would make getting around much easier. You could also catch the bus through the Mont Blanc tunnel to ski Courmayeur in Itlay (the lift pass is included in Cham's, and last year IIRC the return bus ticket, or the car ticket if using the lift pass discount, was 20Eu). PDS is a large, interlinked area with huge motorway pistes. I'm sure you can find challenging skiing there, but in general, it's geared up for intermediates.
Have fun!
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Quote:

But they must do Apres if they go to Austria, if only one time

But "doing apres" doesn't mean doing clubs and discos, does it? It's not actually compulsory to get bladdered? They have specifically said they are not wanting to go to clubs and discos and, personally, I don't blame them! Sounds as though they are looking for really good food, which they won't want to be vomiting onto the pavement.
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and they're on their honeymoon - so an early night, maybe, after a long day's skiing, a delicious dinner and a digestif or two?
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pam w wrote:
It's not actually compulsory to get bladdered?

Are you sure ? I wish someone would have told me that earlier, yes it did spoil my dinner but I don't think I could have coped with the Europop sober.
Not doing the Mooserwort whilst in St Anton would be like going to Agra & not visiting the Taj Mahal.
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Lechbob,
I have actually left the Mooserwirt sober but singing along to zwanzig centimetres may not be everyones idea of a perfect honeymoon I guess.
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OP here...SHs is amazing - I go to sleep and wake up to a flurry of very helpful responses! Razz

Quote:

But "doing apres" doesn't mean doing clubs and discos, does it? It's not actually compulsory to get bladdered? They have specifically said they are not wanting to go to clubs and discos and, personally, I don't blame them! Sounds as though they are looking for really good food, which they won't want to be vomiting onto the pavement.


Quote:

and they're on their honeymoon - so an early night, maybe, after a long day's skiing, a delicious dinner and a digestif or two?


pam_w, you have us described to a tee. We are in our early to mid 30s, and here at home, when we ski at Whistler-Blackcomb, our idea of "apres" is a couple of beers on the deck at Merlins, GLC, or Longhorns, a hot tub at the condo, a nap, a great dinner out (or in), and a couple of glasses of wine at a local bar before calling it a night. Smile Our days of partying until the wee hours at the clubs (i.e. Whistler's Garfinkels or Buffalo Bills) are long behind us!

We are particularly excited to indulge in great on-piste restaurants (for both food and drink) while skiing in the Alps - this is not something we have in the BC coastal mountains, or really, the Rockies, as most of our Canadian resorts are corporate-owned with not-so-exciting on-piste dining options.

Plus, the fiance hates crowds. Razz

----


Last edited by And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. on Wed 7-05-14 19:06; edited 1 time in total
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Quote:

the fiance hates crowds

don't go to the PdS in mid February then. The Sella Ronda too is not exactly quiet, though there are other areas not on the "circuit" which are much quieter. In February nowhere is likely to be really quiet - it's all relative.
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It's gonna be hard to choose two out of Lech + St Anton, Zermatt + Cervinia, and the Dolomites. Personal preference but I don't think the Portes du Soleil comes close for all your criteria. (I would prefer Via Lattea as an option to the three above).

If in Austria, you have to try the apres-ski, though I do agree there's no need to get bladdered or stay out late at night.

Enjoy!
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Quote:

Not doing the Mooserwort whilst in St Anton would be like going to Agra & not visiting the Taj Mahal

Laughing Well I did go to Niagara and not visit the Falls..... I also went to Timbuktoo and didn't visit the main tourist attraction - the ancient university. So I could definitely go to St Anton and not visit the Mooserwirt.
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Chamonix, Zermatt and most of the Dolomites stick in my mind as being the most beautiful and scenic resorts I have visited. Some combination of 2 of them would be pretty stunning as a honeymoon.
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pam w wrote:
Quote:

the fiance hates crowds

don't go to the PdS in mid February then.


Pam, when did you last go to the PDS in mid Feb and in particular to the Swiss resorts of the PDS? (as the OP was talking primarily about the Swiss side resorts) You are always recommending that people avoid certain areas in Feb and I think it's not necessarily justified! We have now skied the last three half terms, and the last two New Years and Easters in the PDS and the Swiss parts are not crowded and some of the French parts are not crowded either.

Understand the OP is no longer that interested in the PDS anyway but just wanted to add some balance to this view of hideous crowds in the PDS.
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I hope by now you are convinced that Zermatt/Cervinia is a must do destination. Fab hotels, great restaurants on and off the mountain, and the bonus of cheaper but fantastic Italian food on the other side of the hill. It isn't ski in/ski out, but if you look at the hotels listed by Scotsgirl they are all in good locations. As someone else has observed, for North American skiers the hotels are all located no more than a 10 min walk from the lifts, and there are lockers at the lift station where you can store your gear overnight if you want to avoid the walk in ski boots (though my choice would be to carry ski boots to the lift, change into boots and dump shoes there during the day and change back into them for the walk back to the hotel). Can I also add to the list the Europe Hotel-4 star, lovely spa pool in basement and great spot in the village. Zermatt is an iconic destination and you will kick yourselves if you don't go!

I agree also with the suggestion of Lech as a place to base yourself over St Anton. Lech is more piste skier orientated and you can always take the (free) bus over to St A for the day-takes about 20 mins to get to the lift at Stuben. You do indeed need to spend some apres time at the Mooserwirt in St A but then maybe follow it with the more chilled out atmosphere of The Underground bar!
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Perty] - yes, I'm definitely convinced that Zermatt/Cervinia is a must-do destination. It sounds glorious! Now to keep dreaming about destination #2. So many mountains/pistes, so little time...
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sarah wrote:
pam w wrote:
Quote:

the fiance hates crowds

don't go to the PdS in mid February then.


Pam, when did you last go to the PDS in mid Feb and in particular to the Swiss resorts of the PDS? (as the OP was talking primarily about the Swiss side resorts) You are always recommending that people avoid certain areas in Feb and I think it's not necessarily justified! We have now skied the last three half terms, and the last two New Years and Easters in the PDS and the Swiss parts are not crowded and some of the French parts are not crowded either.

Understand the OP is no longer that interested in the PDS anyway but just wanted to add some balance to this view of hideous crowds in the PDS.


I worked in the PDS for one season and one season only. I was based in chatel. The queues were horrendous and I would never work or holiday there again.
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Go to St Anton or Lech then second week in Arabba or Cervinia to taste. Transfer to the former likely to be easier. Tip then Underground is much better apres than Mooser if you're not 40+, German and wearing a cow costume. Think Hairfarmers rather than Euro ooompf Oompf oompf.
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scotsgirl, would love to have your suggestions on nice three star hotels in Zermatt. Thank you in advance!
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singing along to zwanzig centimetres may not be everyone's idea of a perfect honeymoon I guess
Ahem....let's let Lauonlaw be the judge of that Embarassed Toofy Grin

Meanwhile Lauonlaw, I've had a quick skim through the responses as I'm at work wink - I don't think anyone has mentioned skiing in Liechtenstein? The small resort of Malbun, which is fairly near to Zurich is worth a visit for a day - and would be adding another ski country to your list Very Happy:

http://www.tourismus.li/en/activities/winter/skiing-snowboarding.html

Zermatt is expensive - eyewateringly so in some places. We had a very comfortable stay at the *** Hotel Matterhornblick a few years ago - it's reasonably priced for Zermatt (The name of the hotel translates as Matterhorn View by the way.)

http://www.matterhornblick.ch/welcome.html

To add to earlier comments, Zermatt/Cervinia definitely wouldn't disappoint; nor would Ischgl/Samnaun; Lech/Zuers; or St Anton.

Add a day in Liechtenstein into the mix and a four countries tour would be possible!
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Re-3 star hotels in Zermatt-we have stayed in the Hotel Bristol a few times and found the rooms comfy, with a good breakfast, and I think now most if not all the rooms are newly modernised. The hotel is in a great location a 5 min walk to the Matterhorn glacier paradise bubble. The Couronne over the road from the Bristol also gets good tripadvisor reviews. They both have loads of rooms with direct Matterhorn views too. It is definitely worth having a room with THAT view, nothing quite like lying in bed watching the sun hit the Matterhorn in the morning! Very Happy
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We have stayed many times at the Hotel Perren. This is a family run three star, very clean comfortable accommodation and good food. It can be booked on either a half board or bed and breakfast basis or, the hotel is very flexible about letting you book half board and then saying on any particular morning that you will in fact be eating out that night. If so you get a credit to your bill for any evening meal not taken. I only mention this because although there are many wonderful places to eat in Zermatt, it can get expensive, and half board (i.e. breakfast and evening meal) is always more economical. They have a nice suite on the top floor with a balcony and great views of the famous mountain. That might make a good compromise between spending a bit less on accommodation and still feeling like you are doing something special on your honeymoon. Other three stars which I haven't personally stayed in but have either heard good things about or know people who stayed there and were very happy are: the Bellerive (bed and breakfast only) the Butterfly and the Phoenix. In turn these are located in the centre of town, by the train station and slightly further up the hill on the far side of the river from the train station. Nowhere in Zermatt is that far away from the main street, bars, restaurants etc. The Perren is a two minute walk (max) from the Sunnegga funicular which takes you up to the Sunnegga/Rothorn sector from where you can connect easily (given your standard of skiing) to the other areas. Alternatively the bus stop to the Klein Matterhorn lift is less than a minutes walk from the hotel. There are Spas of one sort or another in most of these I think bar the Phoenix, which has a weights/fitness room instead. Although the Perren doesn't have a pool, you can use the pool at the nearby Hotel National for a small fee. It does have a sauna, hammam etc and a massage therapist on site also.
Another possibility might be the Welcome B&B which is located close to the Bellerive, where we have spent a number of New year holidays. It really does depend on your budget, but within the 3 star category this has very nice accommodation, great breakfast in their top floor dining room with more spectacular views. It also has a couple of small apartments with kitchen facilities, which you might find useful, and you can still have breakfast made for you if you prefer.. I suppose every holiday (even a honeymoon!) has to have some compromises, and since you are both foodies, you may prefer to allocate more of your budget to lunches on the slopes (which will be a highlight of your honeymoon, for sure) and compromise a bit on the accommodation, since a lot of the day will be spent out of the hotel in any event. I should say though that standards in the hotels in Zermatt are pretty universally high, so I can't really think of anywhere in the 3 star and upwards category that would be a serious let down.

Finally, I have passed this little place below many times and thought it looked really sweet - you own little swiss chalet in the middle of the oldest part of Zermatt…no catering included though, but very cute place!

http://www.zermattholidays.com/en/chalet/46198

Although it won't be cheap, I am confident that the honeymoon you are planning will be something you will remember forever, certainly my honeymoon in Zermatt couldn't have been better, and that was without the add on of another country, which will be fantastic also!
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