TR Dolomites Hut to Hut ski tour

A snowHead

Ski Hut Tour:
Flew to Bologna, rented a car with a prepaid voucher to find out there was a 1,200€ deposit, which I wasn’t prepared for. This combined with overhearing a very awkward conversation between the car hire company and a returning customer, gave me doubts about hiring the car.
Quickly changed the plan, took a taxi (15€ ) to Bologna train station and took the Italian hi speed train up to Bolzano. A very comfortable and relaxing train ride of 2,5 hours that cost 40€ for one adult and two children. From there, we took a taxi, that the arriving hotel organized for 90€ to Selva. Total transfer cost 145€ for three people. As there had been a landslide on the freeway, the taxi took the small one lane road through the mountainside, as did the large trucks coming from the opposite direction. Too much excitement for the first day, and we hadn’t put on our ski’s yet! Although we could have skied the first day, my youngest had been vomiting, and thought better of it. We took, underwear and socks for each day, and 3 thermals a piece, wore one and packed two, a extra pair of gloves, toiletries, medicine (ibuprofen, Tylenol PM, moleskins, asthma inhalers, bandaids were part of the lot), sunglasses, googles, uggs for me, and snowboots for the kids. The uggs were my splurge packing item to have something comfy at the end of the day. I also took a down skirt and and a extra sweater for the après-ski wear. And it all those kilo’s add up!
Saturday:
Everyone gathered in Hotel Wolkenstein to sort lift passes and rental equipment, we quickly got on our ski’s and headed over to ski Sasslong, then returned up to the Col Raiser and had the best pizza of the trip, best pizza of my life at Rifugio Fermeda. At 16.00 we all met at the bottom of the Col Raiser gondola for the uplift, and first ski down with the backpack… that was bizarre, I had 8 kilo’s on my back, and it was bouncing from here to kingdom come and my skiing suffered. I was starting off very insecure. My goal was to have 4 kilo per person, and we did have that, only the children had 2,5-3 kilo each and I had the rest… as mothers do. The uplift to the first refugio was with a snow scooter. That is like water skiing except with snow ski’s… it was a hold on tight experience! A short time after arrival, the clouds started to clear, and we were rewarded with the most beautiful views from the refugio Juac. (http://www.juac.it/eng/welcome.htm)

Sunday:
8.45 am, packed up on ski’s through some untracked powder from the refugio to the bottom of the Col Raiser, then with the underground train to the Sasslong making our way over direction Canazei. 11.00 am coffee stop at Piz Sect€ . We continued on into Canazei, where we walked through town to the main road and took the ski bus for about 10 minutes to Alba-Ciampac, and uploaded in the Gondola. Our backpacks had been transported for us to Pozza Fossa, so we continued to ski over and fetch the backpacks. The ski into the Pozza Fossa is one of the loveliest runs tree lined runs with creeks running through it, and passing the occasional small church or other mountain side eateries along the way. We stayed in the Refugio Tobia del Gaigher, (http://www.rifugiotobiadelgiagher.com) on the piste and the place was packed and bustling until about 3.30. As evening rolled on, it were only our group, plus a another small group, being visited by the piste bully driver during his espresso break.

Monday:
8.55, on ski’s and with the first lift up to repeat the ski into Pozza Fossa. Again we are delighted with more bluebird skies, and going through the sun cream at an alarming rate. Crisp air temperatures are keeping the snow soft without being slushy. This was meant to be the day we should ski the Marmolada, but 3 weeks before, an avalanche took out two supports from the only lift that takes you back to Arabba, leaving the Marmolada quite isolated, and actually I believe that section was closed. The substitute plan was then, the guides organized a private bus to take us from Pozza Fossa to San Pelligrino. San Pelligrino is a lovely area to explore for a day or two. No lift lines, great snow, lovely eateries. By crossing the street, you can ski there, you end up Col Margherita, which is just as uncrowded, tree lined pistes, and some yet to be skied by me tree skiing. Definitely a place to return to for a day or more! Lunch was had in the sun, with culinary delights at the bottom of the ski lift La Buse Larasei at Rifugio Giglio Picol. It was around 15.00 when we skied down to the base of Falcade, some made another round, but I opted for an extra cappuccino, and a bus picked us up for a 10 km ride to Allegehe, where we uplifted and skied down to the bottom of Palavera. Now it was around 17.00 and the owner of the next refugio picked us and transported us back to their place. This was probably my least favorite refugio because it wasn’t on the piste, and on piste refugio’s were my expecgtation. For the rest the refugio Stualanza is a nice place, and would recommend, it was only it’s location that disturbed me (http://www.staulanza.it/). Were I booking this privately, I would opt for the refugio at the base of the lift.

Tuesday:
At 8.45 the first group was ferried back to the Ploda lift and began making laps whilst waiting for the other groups to arrive. After the group was complete, we skied the whole Civetta area, which was probably in terms of skiing my favorite place. A real pity that it isn’t lift connected to the rest of the Dolomiti ski area, but the bonus is, no lift lines to speak of. It was my favorite because it had a lot of trees, and nice little places to ski off the piste in between the trees. Even at boasting 80 km of skiing, it is big enough on its own, and has enough on offer that I think me and my girls could easily amuse ourselves there for 5 ski days. I saw a lot of nice places to play that weren’t being counted in the 80 km piste skiing, and while this skiing is technically ‘off-piste’, it was all tree lined, and protected from avalanche area, and I would rate these non piste map runs as red-blacks and 5 star fun! We skied back over to Alleghe, skiing past the World War I ski route, which was closed due to Avalanche danger. It is sometimes closed due to lack of snow, and unusual to be closed due to too much snow! We then uplifted back, but this time we skied the Val di Zoldo area, also fantastic, still in the Alleghe-Civetta lift connected ski area. The restaurant (refugio) at the top of the Pescul-Fertazza gets my vote for the best cappuccino in the Dolomites, possibly Italy. Only 1,70€ and you get a chocolate sprinkled on top in the shape of a flower, just to make you feel a bit more spoiled. We also got another one of the strawberry-custard pastry things, and what can I say, strawberry + custard + plus buttery and flaky crust is never a poor choice to delight the senses!
This is also when it got exciting. The plan was to take the ski bus to Fedare, and upload and ski down to the Refugio Scoiatolli…. BUT. 45 minutes before we were meant to load the ski bus, an avalanche came and blocked one of the tunnels leading up to the pass. It was already 16.00 in the afternoon, and the guides, rose to their moment of glory and quickly started mapping out alternative routes over different passes, calling private busses, and quite possibly also the Italian army. In the end, getting to our planned refugio that evening wasn’t going to work, and miracously, they found a lovely 3 star hotel with beds and dinner for 30 people! (I just want to point out, it is exactly this reason, that booking this sort of trip on your own, while possible, is not recommended for the stress level it brings when things go pear shaped, not to mention, how relaxing it is to play follow the leader and not constantly be looking at a piste map). So hats off to guides, for quick thinking and the Hotel Mondeval, for taking all 30 of us in, and putting together an all not too bad dinner for 30 on literally a moments notice!

Wednesday:
The next morning we all loaded up on a bus chartered by Dolomiti Stars bus company. An extra contribution of 12,- per person was required as stated in the T&C’s of the booking company (snowemotions.nl). Given the change in hotel, and that it in fact was an upgrade from a refugio, no one really complained. It was nice to have a private bathroom/shower for one night, especially in the middle of the trip to regroup ones self.
The bus then brought us to the Passo Falzarego (about a 30 minute bus ride), and then we skied down the trail to the bottom of the 5 torri ski lift, uploaded and we had finally arrived at Rifugio Scoiattoli (http://www.rifugioscoiattoli.it), as we were meant to the evening before. I can say without doubt, this was my favorite Rifugio for many reasons. The location and view were fantastic, being seemingly parallel with the 5 torri, the food, was without question, the best food in all of the eateries we experienced along the way (cappuccino aside, that vote goes to the refugio from the day before, and pizza wasn’t on the menu). The food vote goes not only for the deserts, but the main course and sides that were served. I don’t know if it is Michelin rated, but it was that type of food. To top things off, as if it were necessary, the rifugio has its own wooden hot tub, warmed by a proper log fire. The owner serves you champagne in the hot tub, at the top of the mountain parallel to the 5 torri. How can you beat that? Well, you can’t. It wins.
Some folks (me included) decided to take a rest day after arrival, and others went to ski in the Tofane area, about 10 minutes by bus at the bottom of the 5 torri lift. It was a great day to chill out in the hut and make some local laps around the 5 torri lift, as visibility became worse as the day grew old. By the end of the day, it was a complete white out.

Thursday:
This was my least favorite day for a couple of reasons. First we took a 20 minute bus ride to Cortina, we had a long uplift with tram to the top, skiing wasn’t any better than anywhere else we’d been, then ended the day with a 30 minute bus ride back to Passo Falzarego. Having said that, it really wasn’t a bad day at all! Food was noticeably more expensive in Cortina, and we skied from the Faloria area over to the Rio Gere area (where we had a distant view of the 5 torri) and back again. In my opinion, there could have been a lot more skiing that day with a different ski itinerary or possibly skiing the other side of the valley so as to have less time in the ski bus. But anyway, now I’ve skied Cortina for the 2nd time of my life. I might would go back, but organize it differently to get more skiing in. The day ended with the last gondola up to the Rifugio Lagazoui (www.rifugiolagazuoi.com) , which by the way, comes equipped with it’s own sauna, which is literally on the top of the world. Upon arrival, it was clouded over, but the again the morning brought blue skies and view for forever and a day.

Friday:
Now, I can’t believe the trip is almost coming to an end…but it is. Today, we skied first down to the bottom of the tram, they say it’s a black run, but I say it’s red. From the top down the back side of yet another gorgeous 10+ km run with jaw dropping scenery. At the end, you get pulled another kilometer or so across the snow to Armentorla, where the lifts begin. You can also take a taxi there (no fun) or a taxi back to Passo Falzrego. We, however need to get back Santa Cristina, and we all have our packs on our backs, and as we approach the Sella Ronda area, the lift lines become longer, though we never had to wait more than 10 minutes…. But ten minutes 3 times, does start cut into my coffee time! In Arabba, one or two of us sort of went off, so we had to make another lap to gather every one up, first time of the week, all in all, a group accomplishment in my opinion! It was lovely to see Arabba, and definitely, the pistes there offer more challenge, and it was a pity I had 8-0 kilo on my back, because I didn’t really feel as though I could enjoy the challenge as much. The extra kilo’s on ones back is definitely a factor, and I did hold myself back to keep myself safe. I didn’t want to go tumbling down the mountain like a turtle with such a back on my back. We made it over to the Rodella area by about 2 pm, and took the pleasure of having the 2nd best pizza on the mountain, at the orange colored Rifugio Fredarola in passo pordoi.
After lunch, around 15.00 it was a race back through Piz Seteur and Piz Sella to the Ciamponi, and a race down the Sasslong (appropriate enough) to get the last underground train up to Col Raiser, last gondola up to return to the Hut Juac where we spent our first night. I rose the occasion and skied pretty fast considering I had such a large pack on my back. I’m not going to say it was pretty, but I didn’t crash, and I got the job done within the time allotted. Sometimes, skiing is just like that and that has its own charm.

Apres-Ski Tour (Saturday)
Here we choose to explore Alpe di Suisi. I took the red egg up, and we had a series a very slow and old two persons chairs. As we made our way around the valley, the uplift quality increased. Sadly, the visibility decreased, and snow started falling. Once on the other end of the valley, by the Florian lift, we opted for the 3€ bus ride down to St. Cristina, Monte Panne area. The most exciting 3€ bus ride every. How those buses get down the one lane dirt road and tight turns, is truly a wonder. I would have never guessed! Finding ourselves again at the bottom of the Sasslong, up to the top of Col Raiser, and the chair up again for the 10 km run down to Ortisei. This was one of our favorite runs because of the turns, and variations of steepness, scenery, and choice of lovely eateries should one choose for a coffee break along the way. It wasn’t particularly difficult, just fun skiing. On the Sunday morning, we choose just to play around the long run down into Ortisei and compare hot chocolate and cappuccino’s in the various eateries that ski run offers. We also filmed each other skiing and generally took it easy as we winded our ski holiday down.
Return home:
Eventless. We took a taxi with Taxi Olympic to the Ponte Gardena train station (40€ , +39 471 792 111, Olympic@val-gardena.com) a Volkswagen Sharan with a ski carrier on top. Train from Ponte Gardena to Bolzano with a 30 minute stop over, 2,5 hour train ride to Bologna (43,75€ for 3 of us for the train ride) and a taxi to the airport for 17€. I could have probably skied a bit more Sunday,and taken a later train, but with two kids, ski bag, and one large suitcase with ski helmets and other various issues, I just gave us more time to stroll back home.[img][/img]

A snowHead

HeidiAmsterdam, good report, but could you please reduce the image sizes, as it is messing up the forum.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Hells Bells,

Let me figure that out and will do, it showed up OK on my screen...

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kat.ryb,

try it now, lmk-

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HeidiAmsterdam, looks much better.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

Thanks for the 'epic' report Smile

:: Are your ski poles supposed to bent like that, or did you have a big fall ?? Wink

After all it is free

Loving the pictures of Alleghe too. Bringing back memories, although not many of our days were so sunny.

HeidiAmsterdam, thanks for that report. How much "uphill" did you do, and what sort of kit did you use? It sounds great. I have been reading up on walking tours in that area in summer - am seriously tempted. Was your backpack not secured to you? Even walking back from the shops with heavy stuff in a backpack I like to use a waist and chest strap.

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pam w,

No uphill at all. All lift connected or ski bus ride. As I understand it, there is normally less bus ride times, but as the uplift from Marmolada back to Arraba was taken out, that part of the itinerary needed to change, without disturbing their current standing reservations in the refugios. The net being, there were more bus rides than originally planned. And funny enough, it was only the Cortina day of bus rides that I found less than satisfactory, and that was evidently the original plan. I do plan to write the organizers about this, and suggest they do something else. For example, the San Pelligrino day wasn't in the plan, and I found it pretty delightful there.

This is something you could totally do Pam. All the skiing, apart from a few runs, was red and blues. It was a lot of cruising kilometer skiing. It was only Friday that I had to ski the whole day with my pack. A couple days I didn't ski at all with my pack, and the other days it was like 2 hours of skiing with the pack. All very reasonable.

The whole 'must do' bit was in the morning and skiing until about 3.30, then there were places where you could take an afternoon break or ski, of cut out early as you had already arrived at the next location. I paid 590 EUR for the week for 7 nights half pension with the guide. You could do worse. No private rooms or bathrooms though.

Backpack was secured, but I had 9 kilo's, and really I wouldn't do more than 5 kilo, and the less the better. My issues was I carried stuff for my kids because I didn't want them with packs that were too heavy for them. Given my situation, I couldn't get around the weight issue...I was as light as I could manage while carrying for ostensibly 2 full people, whilst the children carried for a 1/2 person.

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albob,

Sorry to disappoint here, but no dramatic story of my skiing like a turtle on my back to account for the bent ski poles.

After 30 years with the same ski poles, they bent whilst hanging from the chair lift and scraped the mounds of snow such that they bent. It was the second to last day of skiing and I couldn't be done with buying new poles. But did save the beloved hand grips and plan to get new sticks and remount my hand grips.

snow reports

HeidiAmsterdam, there was so much snow in the Dolomites, we were almost touching the ground at times on the chairlifts.

Was it "ski touring" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ski_touring or a multi accomodation alpine skiing holiday in huts?

You know it makes sense.

HeidiAmsterdam, some of the the summer walking tours (I've been looking at Colletts which have a v good reputation) are very tough but they also do an easy/moderate version, self-guided, which is 4 - 5 hours walking (plus breaks) each day, which sounds about right for me. Some rifugios, some hotels. They use lifts for some of the ascents so there's a fair bit more downhill than up, and I'd actually prefer to do about the same amount of up and down, as steep downhill is a bit of a punishment on my knees (I do use walking poles, which help a lot).

It's such a beautiful area - had a tantalizing glimpse on the one day of good visibility in Arabba this year.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

DB,

It was a multi accomodation alpine skiing holiday, where the accommodations were refugios on piste, all lift accessible. Only the first refugio, we got pulled up with a snowmobile.

Me, walking uphill with touring skis? Not really folks.

A snowHead

pam w,

the scenery and nature just can't be beat. And the food, I actually gained a kilo on this holiday!!!! Not that I felt my clothes getting tighter or anything, or could be water weight, in any case not fussed about it.

I'm also looking at some walking tours, as I have now invested in some very nice packs. After purchasing the packs, all these other ideas starting popping up with other things we could do!

A snowHead

HeidiAmsterdam, which packs did you use?

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

I used an Osprey Sirrus 36 liter pack, and the girls had the same except 24 liters.

I would say for a week, that 30 to 33 liters is about the right size for a female, and you don't need more than that. When the 36 liter pack was full, it was just slightly too big for my frame, and I'm not small and petite...

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HeidiAmsterdam, I am very flexible about holiday dates, as I no longer work Little Angel

so I am going to look out for a "last minute offer" on the Colletts summer walking holidays. I like the look of their formula very much - you can do an easy/moderate or more demanding organised walk each day, or get leaflets for "self guided" walks, or just sit with a book with your feet up. And you can start any day of the week - no Sat/Sat strictures.

The very little bit (just an easy introductory day) of ski touring I did (with rented kit) was a bit of a revelation. I enjoyed the uphill (those kick turns in deep snow!) and did rather better on that than on the downhill, where the guide had to rescue me from a position firmly wedged in the shrubbery I had failed to turn around sufficiently niftily. We only did about 400m ascent, but apart from a developing blister on my shin (rented boots....) I could happily have done more. I'm also enjoying cross-country skiing - downhill isn't the only show in town for me.

If I were going to do a "touring" holiday, whether in winter or summer, staying in refugios, I'd prefer to avoid any bussing to and fro. The lack of privacy and bathrooms would be acceptable, as would carrying a pack for part of the time, if it were really a "wilderness" experience, but if I'm going to be on busses I think I'd prefer to have my own room!

I bought a "Forclaz 37" very lightweight pack from Decathlon - not expensive. But I have yet to use it in anger for an overnight - definitely this summer!

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Well, the thing about the bus bit, in terms of skiing, the only day that it annoyed me was the day to Cortina, just too much time wasted in a bus. For the rest of it, it were short bus rides, and it enabled you to get to the non lift connected parts of the Dolomites, and there was a bit more than normal because of the uplift back to Arabba situation, which I don't have to tell this group about. But for me, a 10-15 minute bus ride per day was quite acceptable, and when you are with a guide, he knows the bus schedule, so he makes sure you are on schedule, I didn't suffer any stress from 'staying on schedule' apart from the fact I'm not typically up on the first lift as we were in this tour. rolling eyes

But I too am thinking about some walking tours in the summer over there. Thinking about August when I hope all the snow will have melted from the winter... all the mountain huts where you can sleep and wake up in the nature and not have to lug around a sleeping bag and cooking equipment, is just my speed.

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HeidiAmsterdam, Bus rides wouldn't bother me in the least - it's just that the whole point of staying in places with dorms and no decent bathrooms is, for me, that that's the price you pay for touring "off the beaten track". If I were younger and fitter I'd like to camp, but that's definitely too much lugging.

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pam w,

Well, private bathrooms is pretty much out of the question, private rooms is likely to be arranged. Because I was with two kids, we were able to avoid the dormitory rooms, apart from one night when 3 dutch men insisted they wanted rest, and didn't give a thought about how bizarre it was for 3 men in their 50's to be sleeping in a room with an 11 and 12 year old girl. I was flabbergasted that they wouldn't switch rooms with other females. Anyway, we got through it and had a decent nights sleep all the same, just found their attitude totally bizarre. My guess is, with a bit of research you could manage the same thing in hotels at the base of lifts, but then you miss the whole point of waking up high in the mountains...

After all it is free

[quote="pam w"]

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HeidiAmsterdam,
I'm guessing the Dutch guys were completely knackered after skinning up the mountains for a few days to then have a few females try and change their sleeping arrangements. Mountain huts are basic, you share with whoever else books the room irresepective of age, nationality or sex. The people who use the huts tend to respect the mounatins and each other.

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DB,

They weren't skinning...but probably knackered all the same. I didn't make a big deal of it, I just kindly asked. It's only worth mentioning if you were to do this with children in toe, so that you are aware of what kind of situations you could run into.

The other side of the coin, coming from the land of law suit happiness in the states, you wouldn't have to ask to switch out rooms...it is just understood, and just isn't done. You would want to avoid such issues at any cost.

Nevertheless, like I said, we ended up with a good nights sleep, nothing weird happened, so all is well that ends well.

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We were in the room first, so they didn't have to unpack, and it was mentioned to them before they unpacked.

at Girl Scout Camps in the US they have pretty strict rules, and adults are not allowed to be alone with children, even same sex. In Holland, coaches are uber sensitive to avoiding any situation which could bring their intentions under question. So, in my world, it is a current issue. Sadly enough.

But that is a whole side track from the hut tour.

You know it makes sense.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

HeidiAmsterdam, but the adult "strangers" weren't alone with children because their mother was there too? When I read about rifugios I read they were mixed gender and that seems fair enough to me. The blokes were probably relieved that at least two of their roommates weren't likely to be snorers! (Being one myself, I know how annoying it can be for others).

A snowHead

HeidiAmsterdam, great trip report thanks.

It is an interesting concept and doing a ski safari looks fun. Not 100% sure I would want to muck about being in a big group of people skiing together and being bused about though. I would love to do something similar but with off piste and some uphill and a much smaller group Very Happy

Expect that would be much more expensive though.

I think the men in room situation says more about your view of the world than about the men! Its a dorm room, you are with them, the men weren't exactly going to rape the kids with you in the room were they! And as for thinking of the possibility that your children could make a malicious allegation, well, that would be a pretty fu*ked up thing for the men to assume and for the kids to do. The whole peado scare culture has gone mental, kids are way more likely to be abused by Uncle Tom than a stranger in a refugio.

A snowHead

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

HeidiAmsterdam, lovely report and gorgeous girls. Must have been geat to share the tour with them.

Who did you book the trip with, and how big is the group that they take? I gather from report around 30 or does that include staff?
Thinking that it would be perfect if you can fill whole group.

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can I ask,... how much for all of your group ..590 ? or was that just you ?
I am looking at doing a ski tour with my boys but maybe a ski safari might be a better introduction as the youngest is 13 ... would prefer the get away from it feel as it will be something completely different for them

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HeidiAmsterdam, good. No harm done then!

A great report from a type of holiday that I didn't know existed. Full marks for tracking it down and carrying it through.

After all it is free

agreed.

I think there have been one too many unfortunate situations. Even as unpaid volunteer I'm required to go through some training, and it is a theme that is trained on, not only in the U.S., but in Holland as well. At the club down the street from us, a youth coach accused of sodomizing young boys killed himself once it came out in public. I have no idea if he did it or not, the investigation never got that far. It was just someone I knew, not a friend, so can't begin to guess if it was true. There was another situation with a young lesbian camper angry with the attention she didn't get from the camp counselor, made some accusations, unfounded, but caused a lot people a lot of pain.

So, maybe it's just me and the evidently weird world I live in. Fortunately my kids aren't afraid of men, young, middle-aged or old, actually, they talk with everyone, and still they didn't like sleeping in the same room with men they didn't know. It was what it was, and we still managed a good nights sleep, without much drama. There was far less discussed at the time then on this thread!

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590 all of you did sound a bit silly asking ... but hey ,...sillier not to ask ..
sounds great fun .. thanks for the great report !! will let you know how I get on snowHead

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