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Climb/Ski 'le vrai' Mont Blanc

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
clarky999, Cheers. Sole Boot Lab fitted Dynafit Mercurys, volkl nanuq and plum yaks (without the brakes Toofy Grin )

Great set up, I've done a 3 day haute route and a multi day in Monta Rosa with no issues.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Nice one Wink
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Buddy, how did the 3-day Haute Route go?
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Good. 1st day GM to Champex via the col de Chardonnet. 2nd day Verbier to Arolla. 3rd day Arolla to Zermatt. Stayed in valley hotels in Champex (taxi to Verbier the next morning) and Arolla rather than mountain huts. Hotels were cheaper, chance to have a shower and free drinking water. Just means you have to climb a bit further out of Arolla on the 3rd day into Zermatt. Solid 8-9 hour days though.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Good effort.
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superb - 3 day HR is pretty cool training Very Happy
good luck for the big day!
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Buddy, how did the 3 day Haute Route work out?
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
?????
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
suspect 22 dropout may have been looking at page 1 of the thread only, not realising there was a page 2 to move onto.
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Looking forward to hearing how this goes. Good luck!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Has everyone got page two on "ignore"?

Buddy1664, thanks for the write up.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Buddy1664 wrote:
Good. 1st day GM to Champex via the col de Chardonnet. 2nd day Verbier to Arolla. 3rd day Arolla to Zermatt. Stayed in valley hotels in Champex (taxi to Verbier the next morning) and Arolla rather than mountain huts. Hotels were cheaper, chance to have a shower and free drinking water. Just means you have to climb a bit further out of Arolla on the 3rd day into Zermatt. Solid 8-9 hour days though.

Nice one! I don't suppose you have more pictures, topos etc? I'd be really interested to hear more about this, maybe on a separate thread?
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Yep. Small print and I do not get along. I too would be like to hear more about the HR, especially average speed and stops/rests, as they can be real speed killers.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
22 dropout, Chamcham, I'll put up another TR for the HR.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Another training run with a couple of friends on Fri/Sat. We thought the best snow was up high and we weren't wrong. We left the mid station at around half 3 and got to the grand mulets hut around 6pm. After some dinner and bug all sleep we left the hut at 2:30am the next morning. We skinned part of the way up the Arrete Royal and then boot packed the rest of the way up to the Dome de Gouter. It was really amazing place to be when dawn broke. Front pointing on an ice slope with the lights of the valley blanketed by low lying cloud far below you. Very special place to be. I would recommend this route to anybody tackling MB in winter. It may be longer but it's far more aesthetically pleasing and you don't have the constant danger of sera fall of the grand mulet direct route.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead

We summited at around midday after a really good effort from Paul. Unfortunately the wind had picked up a bit and some cloud had come in. It was good to get skis back on to ski some pretty wind effected snow on the north face.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person

Lower down gave some of the best snow I've skied this season, really surfy powder. Lots of fun!!! We skied down to the old lift station and then walked down the track to the tunnel where Paul's lovely wife very kindly picked us up. Good few days in the hills. Powder is coming back to Chamonix, time to dig out the fat skis again!!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Buddy1664 wrote:

We summited at around midday after a really good effort from Paul. Unfortunately the wind had picked up a bit and some cloud had come in. It was good to get skis back on to ski some pretty wind effected snow on the north face.


how was the skiing with 3 skis between 2? wink

looks like a great trip
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Hahaha well spotted. Paul was hanging, so Phil and I took a ski each for him.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Some good trips here Buddy1664 - good luck for the 'oner'
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is this the best thread on snow heads currently? or is it the Ben Nevis off piste? both epic...
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Quote:

s this the best thread on snow heads currently? or is it the Ben Nevis off piste? both epic...


Too hard to choose wink
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Well I seemed to have tried everywhere else and had two people bail on me at the last minute. So are there any cham locals that have a decent engine and some experience, fancy doing MB from town starting tomorrow night??? Small weather window next few days. Unfortunately I have to be back in the UK this weekend so this is the only opportunity I've got left.

Quote:

is this the best thread on snow heads currently? or is it the Ben Nevis off piste? both epic...


I reckon Ben Nevis off piste has the nod if I don't manage to get a partner. Tried all the guides above but they are either busy (PdG etc) and one thinks a particular slope below the Arrete Royal will be loaded which is fair enough but I'd still like to go and have a look.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
Fingers crossed for your 'oner'.
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Buddy1664 wrote:
Well I seemed to have tried everywhere else and had two people bail on me at the last minute. So are there any cham locals that have a decent engine and some experience, fancy doing MB from town starting tomorrow night??? Small weather window next few days. Unfortunately I have to be back in the UK this weekend so this is the only opportunity I've got left.

Quote:

is this the best thread on snow heads currently? or is it the Ben Nevis off piste? both epic...


I reckon Ben Nevis off piste has the nod if I don't manage to get a partner. Tried all the guides above but they are either busy (PdG etc) and one thinks a particular slope below the Arrete Royal will be loaded which is fair enough but I'd still like to go and have a look.



I am crying
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Sent you a PM RE my mate whos attempting the same. It's a long shot as they've already got their group sorted so I wouldn't get your hopes up but worth a go.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Buddy1664, to have already topped out and skied off Mont Blanc at all is so cool, and much as I hope your bodacious ambition all comes together for you this weekend, the efforts you've put in so far look to have already given you amazing adventures and reaped you rewards that most can only dream of. If it doesn't happen this year, I'm sure you'll get a chance for another pop at it. Cool
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
rich739, Cheers mate, I've sent him a message.

moffatross, Thanks, just very annoying when the plug gets pulled at the 11th hour. Plus I'm looking at the slope below the Arrete and there is a substantial skin track in from this mornings teams. But… you're absolutely right, I've had a great season with so much on my doorstep. I know it sounds a bit sentimental but I can understand how some people come for the season, fall in love with the place and never leave.

Fingers crossed.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
moffatross, Buddy1664, Great threads from both of you.

Buddy1664, I hope it comes off for you, if not, there's always next year. Better to do it in safety, and succeed, than vice versa Sad
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Any news?
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
PP, Doesn't look good for this year. Had a possible from rich739, but there group was full. Good luck to them.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Can't you just do Ben Nevis instead wink

Getting the time, equipment, right weather and building up the high level of fitness then having someone else pull the plug must be really frustrating. Evil or Very Mad Be a real shame if it doesn't work out for you this year.


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Mon 5-05-14 16:06; edited 3 times in total
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Today and tomorrow should have been ideal esp. if you can move quick before the next weather system comes in.
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davidof, Cheers I know, I have a great view from my window! Toofy Grin

Not prepared to do it solo therefore at the whim of other people. Anyway I've got a lift sorted back to the UK tomorrow. Next year I'm afraid. Thanks for all the support from fellow SHs.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Buddy1664 wrote:
davidof, Cheers I know, I have a great view from my window! Toofy Grin

Not prepared to do it solo therefore at the whim of other people. Anyway I've got a lift sorted back to the UK tomorrow. Next year I'm afraid. Thanks for all the support from fellow SHs.


ah that is really too bad, very frustrating but I've been a victim of other people hemming and hawing in the past so know what it is like.
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No worries.

For your information they didn't make it anyway. They underestimated what a huge ask it is adding a further 2k vert on summit day. We summited today but were in the hut overnight. A oner is truely a special thing, a lot of respect for the training you've done.

Edit: Oh and there was a LARGE slide on the Royale route yesterday. Only 9 people summited, those who took the Mulets. All the guides today were taking people the Mulets route. There was more talk of the loaded slab you mentioned still there and deep. soft avvy debris. We went with the Mulets in the end as whilst seracs are terrifying, willingly walking into a loaded zone is far worse IMO.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
rich739, Thanks mate. Well done for summiting today, it must have been spectacular. Very Happy

Interesting to here about the slide. I must commend Jon Bracey for acting on his conviction and pulling the plug on Sat eve. I'm sure he could have taken my money, got to the slope and turned around to be back in town in time for breakfast.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Really gutting Buddy1664. Well done on your achievements thus far. Also this was for me the SH thread of the year. I will look forward to your thread next season.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
What a good call from Jon Bracey.
Buddy1664, what a great couple of ticks you had anyhow.
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What a thread, what a set of adventures.....Buddy1664, great reading altogether, thanks for sharing the journey with us.

Gutted for you of course about the canned 'Oner' attempt, but hats off to your guide, great call on the potential for a slide. I had 2 good ski buddies doing a classical MB ascent in that weather window and I was nervous as a kitten for them looking at the ava warnings, etc. 1 of them summitted fine, but the other blistered badly& had to turn back, so ok thankfully, but they were lucky obviously.

Well done again on your amazing adventures and thanks for sharing them here.
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