Looking for a really pretty resort in Austria for Xmas and new year?

A snowHead

Hi this is my first post Very Happy

Looking for a pretty resort for myself advanced skier, my 9yr old who is intermediate and my wife who loves skiing but has had a knee op so won't be able to ski much at all, so need a resort with a few things to do.
We are driving out so can be flexible with transport.
Was thinking of Innsbruck area? Went there as a kid for Xmas and new year, stayed in Igls, but remembered that the skiing was limited.
As we are going for about 10days we would like to be able to go out and do a day or two non skiing stuff.
So please any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Very Happy

A snowHead

I'd suggest Zell Am See. Absolutely STUNNING and plenty to do off-slope, plus there is Saalbach nearby.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Jimbobwillis, Welcome to snowHeads!

Two of the prettiest resorts in Austria (in fact I think they have both been voted the prettiest one in Austria, work that one out! Laughing

) are Alpbach and Westendorf. The skiing at Alpbach has recently been linked with that of the neighbouring Wildschonau valley to form the new Ski Juwel (Ski Jewel) area. Westendorf has its own ski area but also links via Brixen into the SkiWelt area on the Wilder Kaiser mountain range, and the fairly new Ki-West connection links into the skiing of nearby Kirchberg and Kitzbuhel, see KitzbuhelerAlpen skimap. It's easy for your wife to have a day trip to Kitzbuhel using the local bus service from Westendorf.

Zell am See as suggested above is also a good location, with the pretty lake (frozen of course in Winter). There is a traditional Xmas market held in the town square in the days preceding Xmas, and on Xmas Eve the town band plays traditional Austrian music there.

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Jimbobwillis, lots of choices. I addition to what has been said I would also recommend Kitzbühel,. The skiing is more extensive than in either Alpbach or Zell am See, and offers something for all levels.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Jimbobwillis, Take a look at Wagrain which really does have that something extra and goes that wee bit further to play up the Christmas atmosphere. Disneyland it ain't but the fact that it is the birthplace of the priest who wrote the words to Silent Night means they do look at being a real Christmas destination.

Skiing for all levels with more mileage than even the fastest ski all day type, including greatly underrated off-piste opportunities combined with great piste skiing for everyone. Lift system is one of the best I've come across as all the drag lifts (other than those on the nursery slopes) have been replaced with modern 6 or 8 seater chairs, many with heated seats for a warm bum! wink

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I always thought that Alpbach was the classic Christmasy- village..

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I think we're on a +3 for Alpbach now. A very pretty village and valley, with easy links to Innsbruck and Kufstein for non-skiing days out. However, most of Alpbach village itself is built on the side of the valley, so a lot of the roads go up/down... That might not be ideal if your wife is nervous after her knee op.

After all it is free

In my opinion Kitz isnt worth the extra cash for its rep. IMO only the very center of the town is pretty, and most accommodation I think is outside of this. We stayed at Kirchberg the following year and I actually thought we got a much better deal there, and it was a nicer environment.

-1 for Kitzbuhel, as per dennisp - overpriced and over-rated, especially when the low altitude can leave you carrying your skis down a muddy slope halfway down the hill. Kirchberg is a cheaper alternative, provides a good entry point and also gives easy access to Brixen, but I'm not in any hurry to return there.

Zell am See is pretty, and has a number of other options available for non-skiers, but most of them require working knees - skating, walking, snow shoes, etc. The swimming pool is good though.

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Jimbobwillis, what's she had done to her knee? Quite a few of us have had issues with our knees and may be able to give some hope? I am waiting for an operation on my left one having torn medial meniscus and our holiday is booked for Easter. Thankfully I know mine should be relatively quick recovery but don't have an op date yet....

Best of luck.

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1 for Kitzbuhel, as per dennisp - overpriced and over-rated, especially when the low altitude can leave you carrying your skis down a muddy slope halfway down the hill. Kirchberg is a cheaper alternative, provides a good entry point and also gives easy access to Brixen, but I'm not in any hurry to return there.

Im intrigued to know when and where you were carrying your skis down a muddy slope halfway down the hill in Kitzbuhel. Apart from a late start all over the Alps in 2006/7 I doubt if you would have attempted to ski down rather than take a gondola. Its a long, long way down back into Kitzbuhel from half way down back to the bottom. There would have been signs up saying piste closed Im sure.

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Bode Swiller, +1, I really like Kitzbuhel and it'd tick all the boxes, great snow record.

Like most things in life you get what you pay for, Kitzbuhel is no exception, great place to stay over festive period and done if many times without issue. Loads to do for non skiers too.

You know it makes sense.

I can highly recommend Neukirchen am Großvenediger in the Hohe Tauern National Park. Absolutely stunning views with lots of Austrian charm.... Google it and take a look. Ski area is called Wildkogel.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

Alpbach for me.

A snowHead

Alpbach for me.

A snowHead

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

Has the tunnel re opened yet?

Im out in a couple of weeks and will have to drive down to Klagenfurt from Kirchberg hopefully via Lienz

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If you mean the Felbertaurn one, it was never closed as such. The road was cut by a landslide near Matei, but they built a work around which has been in operation over the summer. There was a report on the Salzburger-Nachricht-show (Salzburg local news programme) about it on Saturday evening, but I have not yet looked at it. Expect a lot of big road works to appear between now (all the schools are back so no big holiday traffic hold ups) and the end of the roadworking season in December. Certainly that is what is happening now along the A8 between Munich and Rosenheim as of thursday this week (the day the Bavarian schools go back).

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2294901&highlight=felbertauern#2294901

The tunnel itself wasn't actually affected, but the road itself between Mittersill and Lienz was not passable.

It looked like it reopened after the workaround at the end of July. I know in July they were certainly showing the diversions were still in place Zell and further East down the motorway via Spittal area. Which must have been a helluva diversion if you lived in Mittersall and worked in Lienz.

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jafa, Bode Swiller, Feb-March 2012. I got half way down the Hahnenkamm, which was definitely open and had no signs, ropes or poles preventing anyone from going down it, when I found a mogul field which was fully brown, including the slush between the bare moguls. It was a 10 minute wade downhill to get clear of it, and into an area with grey slush instead.

Bode Swiller, I mentioned this in my trip report, which you responded to:

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ousekjarr, that's right, I said " it was pretty much the same all over". Poor conditions weren't an issue with Kitzbuhel alone but you make it sound to the OP like Kitzbuhel is to be avoided.

After all it is free

As I've said several times, altitude is no guarantee of snow, and lack of it doesn't mean there won't be any, but having been bitten by Kitzbuhel once, I'm unlikely to return.

I think that your experience of Kitzbuhel that week re the weather could have been transferred to many Austrian resorts that week/year.

Certainly coming down the Hahnenkamm after the race w/end there are areas that are most definetly roped off with orange netting. They are never piste bashed and if it was one of them(which I suspect it was) then yes its just as likely when you went that the snow had gone off the ground and you ended up walking down there. Certainly Ive never seen any area coming down the Streif that was so unskiable they have still allowed skiers to come down there. Was this near the bottom from the Hausbergkate by any chance? Very few people attempt that in normal conditions far less when its warm and bare.

There are two routes on the Hahnenkamm. One of them, the real race route, is graded as an 'extreme ski route' (which is quite funny 'cos there's nothing extreme about it). Due to this, I think it is VERY rarely groomed, and probably only in the run-up to the race weekend - thus it'll melt quicker than the main piste. IIRC, the main piste route curves around the steeper parts, maybe at the time the lifties had intended people to only ski the piste and not the ungroomed sections. The one time I've skied the Hahnekamm we also encountered a 5 metre stretch of mud/grass on the sunniest bit, wasn't a big deal to walk across it. In fact I think signs did direct us to stay on the piste rather than the ski route part at that point.

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Definitely Austria, a lovely contrast to the Christmas shopping fest in the UK. With the emphasis on Christmas: Zell am See or Kitzbuhel. Or St Wolfgang with even less skiing involved. Skiing on Christmas day rather than sleeping in front of the TV is a bonus.

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Bode Swiller, in my opinion, it is to be avoided - hot weather aside, I thought the pistes were pretty boring, and there were more uphill sections than I've encountered anywhere else, many of them in key areas where you end up having to walk up to lifts unless the conditions allow a very long run up. The off piste is no doubt good when the conditions are good, but that's true just about anywhere, and in our case there was no off piste anywhere in the area.

Kitzbuhel is a place which is living on the reputation of its race. It charges a premium based on this. To me, the reputation is overblown, and the premium is entirely unjustified. I've been to a fair few resorts in Austria, and of them all, Kitzbuhel comes bottom for me. Given a choice of returning, or of taking a chance on somewhere new, I'd go anywhere else - which is a shame, as the Kirchberg side, especially Ki-West and into the Ski Welt were all good, but I'd rather cover those from Brixen, Ellmau or Scheffau instead.

So, for the OP, if you really like the idea of Kitzbuhel, don't be put off by my experiences - go for it - but do it at the last minute based on the 7-day forecast.

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ousekjarr, yep, the ski area has it's downsides, like the flat 'poling' bits - would hate to be a snowboarder there. I like Pass Thurn and, like you, the Kirchberg side. For skiing, I'd always prefer Westendorf. The town though is hard to beat IMO.

jafa, I think the work around was in place earlier than "officially allowed" for just such a reason as you quote - for the locals. It was sign-posted on the overhead gantries along the A8 from Irschenberg onwards that the road was closed, probably to make sure the holiday traffic did not clogged it up before absolutely necessary. A friend who lives down that way said that for him there were only a couple of days he could not use it, but it was closed "officially" for a long time.

Use the ÖAMTC web site to see where the roadworks and road closures are - much more accurate than any other resource in my experience. http://www.oeamtc.at/?id=2500%2C%2C1095812%2C Also has a good page for finding the cheapest petrol stations on any particular day (Spritpreis)! wink

ousekjarr, Bode Swiller, and Co - if this runs like the usual sHs "recommend me a resort for ......" thread posted by a newbie, we won't see them again! Toofy Grin

You know it makes sense.

ousekjarr, Bode Swiller, agree with you both there. Especially the race rep bit.

Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:

I am surprised that so many folk have problems with Kitzbühel. I find it a fine area, though like many larger, linked areas (Saalbach, SkiWelt) there are often flatter linking runs on the circuit. I have never found 'poling bits' that bothered me much. It can be slushy lower down at times. The problems are more the crowds at busy times. It is probably true that Kirchberg offers better value for money, to access the same skiing. I have always found the Hahnenkamm quite extreme enough for me Laughing

With regard to the Felbertauernstrasse, the original road is closed and looks like it will stay that way till 2015. The temporary road which has been built to bypass the blockage has also been affected by a landslide and is presently single track, with one way traffic controlled by traffic lights. It seems that the delays aren't too long, however. For those who read German, you can find more details here.

A snowHead

espri, agree with that. I always ski either in St.Anton or Kitzbühel whenever I take a day out, or Garmisch for a quick half day. I just don't get it that people on here think Kitz is all flat! It isn't. It also has plenty of really ( I mean really ) nice off-piste runs. With it being connected up, well sort of, with the ski welt these days what's not to like?
As far as poling is concerned... where do you have to do that Puzzled

A snowHead

espri, Steilhang, + 1 from me. I think the old link above the Fleckalmbahn may have influenced some people's memories as well as the return to the Hahnenkamm lift. I download quite often and it is a bit of a bore but hardly the end of the world. Toofy Grin

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

We're heading to Kitzbuhel for Hogmanay and can't wait. Haven't been there for 30 years - any ski bums out there that spent some time in the village 1979-83?

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Wow thanks for all he tips. Sounds like Kitz is a bit over priced and over rated, I feel the same about the courchavel and the 3 valleys. NickyJ My wife has had a partial knee replacement 6 months ago and they Say that it will take upto 18 months for full recovery. So thanks for the comment, but not sure that you will be able to help...unless you have a magic wand! Very Happy

My son also plays ice hockey and we would love to play outside on the lake or an open air rink. Do any of the above resorts have this? Obviously Zell has a lake, do they clear the snow off regularly ?
Thanks again for all the advice. Will have to get my resort guide out and check them out.
Alpbach does sound favourable (without looking at resort guide) how long does it take drive to Innsbruck from here?

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

Jimbobwillis, It would take about 45 minutes to drive from Alpbach to Innsbruck.

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Jimbobwillis, must admit if I had a magic wand I would be using It on myself first. I can only give my sympathy, my last ski holiday I was recovering from an MCL injury, and the previous still recovering after an op to remove medial meniscus cartilage tear. Now waiting for an op for the same on my other knee, with 8year ago had an ACL reconstruction. I was joking that I wanted a new knee Embarassed

but with it being a 2yr recovery, maybe not.

Hope you all have a great time.

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I have been to most resorts in Austria including all the ones mentioned above. most of them admittedly just a walk around while doing group trip research but have skied a few as well .Zell Am See wins hands down for what you are after. would rate way ahead of Alpbach which I couldn't believe was voted prettiest village. pretty yes but prettiest?? and you also have to bus to ski area. lift is no more than 500m from any Zell accom.
liked Zell so much I got married there!

After all it is free

espri, Steilhang, Samerberg Sue, I think Kitzbuehel is a 'good' resort, and I've had plenty of fun skiing there, but don't think it's 'one of the best' - which is what it seems to bill itself as. Like Bode Swiller, I like the town, but would rather ski in Westendorf if I'm in that neck of the woods.

Jimbobwillis, I can't remember the lake at Zell am See being cleared for skating/hockey, but when it's really cold and the lake is frozen, it is possible to walk across from Zell to Thumersbach on a marked trail.

On the subject of ice hockey, there is a big indoor ice-rink, the local Zell Eisbear's team play in a Pan-European Alpine League against teams from Austria, Slovenia and Italy and the home matches are very well supported. They have home matches over Christmas: Sat 21st Dec at 19.30 v Lustenau, Thurs 26th Dec at 19.30 v. Bregenzerwald and Sat 28th at 19.30 v. Celje

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Jimbobwillis, there is an indoor ice rink in Zell am See with a national league team - http://www.ek-zellereisbaeren.at/

The lake usually freezes over in winter, but as it is a big one there are still some patches of open water, and the thickness varies, so while the local council open it up to walkers and put benches and conifer saplings along a safe route to enable you to walk to the other side when the conditions permit, it wouldn't be advisable to try running a full hockey game on it except in the most severe winters. I've heard that vehicles can drive over it in some years, but I've also been there in February when there was no ice.

The other benefits of Zell are the compact city centre, the ease of access to the lifts either directly in town (the City Express lift) or via a short bus journey, and the fact that you can get there by train from Salzburg in about an hour for about €20 each, so a day of sightseeing and/or shopping in Salzburg is a distinct possibility. There's also a world class spa now in Kaprun, about 10 minutes away by bus, and if you need guaranteed snow cover the glacier is about 20 minutes away and is worth the trip anyway as it is a great area.

With the Salzburg Super Ski Card, you can do Zell, Kaprun, Saalbach/Hinterglemm and several other areas on day trips if you are worried that you'd get bored.

Help!!

Looking for a really pretty resort in Austria for Xmas and new year?

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