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Re drilling skis

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Ok I have a question about re drilling skis. I have some Rossi scratch fs skis that are a few years old which I want to re drill for use on dry slope so I don't destroy my newer skis. They have been drilled twice, once for fks 120 (I think) and then once for salomon rental bindings which I had put on so friends could borrow them to save money. Anyway I plan on making quite a few trips to dry slope this year mainly for freestyle and was hoping I could put a third mount. Looking at the previous holes there isn't a great deal of room to work with. I will post photos when I get a chance too.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Why not just keep the Salomon rental bindings on there?
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Images are here:





I hope you can make out the old holes and then the 3 red lines. That is the centre line and the heel and toe of my boot marked on the ski in red.

Mistress Panda, they are mounted too far back from centre. I tried spinning with them but there is so much extra length at the tips. The remount would be 9cm further forward than the salomon bindings.
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Put CH4 wax on newer skis for plastic and throw these away
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
pcurran871, Why not make a paper template of the holes for the Salomon rental bindings then slide it along to where you want the centre line to be and see if there is enough clearance for where you would drill new holes.
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rjs, I wouldn't be mounting again with salomon bindings but I guess that would still give me a rough idea.

Cynic, I'm not about to brand new skis on plastic. Had this problem last year and after 2 sessions a week for 11 weeks the edge separated making the ski useless. I would rather use these until I go away and then throw them out. Ill see what the ski tech thinks and decide after that.

I was more curious as to how much room there should be between holes to stop any cracking or the binding ripping out?
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Ideally you should have 10mm separation between the holes but you have to factor in the usage, user & the ski's construction. For a big guy doing big landings on a non metal layer ski or one with a shoite core I like to have more of a margin, especially if you have a line of holes running across the ski - the opposite of this & you can go closer. Old holes should be properly plugged.

Once you've got reasonable separation from a properly plugged hole the binding retention has more to do with the quality of the mount (ie no top sheet eruption & screws not over tightened) combined with the force of your dodgy landings wink
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
spyderjon, thanks that's more of an answer I was looking for. I only have about 8mm but since its only dry slope and the kickers aren't exactly big and I only weigh 65kg I thought I should be fine? The old holes have already been properly plugged so that shouldn't be an issue.
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pcurran871 wrote:
spyderjon, thanks that's more of an answer I was looking for. I only have about 8mm but since its only dry slope and the kickers aren't exactly big and I only weigh 65kg I thought I should be fine? The old holes have already been properly plugged so that shouldn't be an issue.

Yep, go for it.
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When I wanted to have a third mount on a pair of ski's a year or so ago the shop (Snow&Rock Milton Keynes) wouldn't do it. I still have the ski's. Not sure what to do with them. One of the bindings had broken hence the need to fit another set. All about risk assessment I guess. Opinion seemed divided on here. Might stick them up as a freebie and clear some space in the garage!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.

The general rule is no more than three mounts but it does depend upon the criteria I mentioned above. What usually happens when trying to get a third mount in is that to avoid conflicts you end up having to offset the fore/aft mounting point quite a bit which is not good. There's a good thread on multiple mounts on TGR:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/215852-Review-Binding-Freedom-Inserts-The-Swiss-Cheese-Experiment/page9?highlight=swiss+cheese

Here's a pic of my carbon 183 Bros with a few sets of Quiver Killer inserts in 'em.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
spyderjon, some of those holes are less than 10mm apart. I'm guessing you still didn't have any issues even after the 3rd mount?
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pcurran871 wrote:
spyderjon, some of those holes are less than 10mm apart. I'm guessing you still didn't have any issues even after the 3rd mount?

Quiver Killers are extremely strong & the multiple carbon layers in the PM Gear's makes them very torsionally stiff. I sold the skis to a mid-weight middle-aged technically very good guy who's using Dynafits on them for freeride touring & I'm 100% confident with them. His son however in 6'3"/17stone & drops 30 footers so he's banned from using them.

I never dream of doing that many inserts or that close on say a Line ski.

It's all down to the ski's construction, the user, the usage & some common sense.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Yea i get what you mean. More weight = more force on the ski. Luckily im only 150 pounds and even the force of landing on a solid dry slop probably wouldnt be enough for me to rip out a heel piece. Thanks for your help.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Yea i get what you mean. More weight = more force on the ski. Luckily im only 150 pounds and even the force of landing on a solid dry slop probably wouldnt be enough for me to rip out a heel piece. Thanks for your help.
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