Poster: A snowHead
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Quick question regarding some new skis I had mounted with quiver killer inserts. A few of the inserts have raised the topsheet 1-2mm above the flat (around the holes) and to my untrained eye the mount looks a little scrappy compared to rest. Is this a big problem?
Can post pics if I can discover how to use media zone.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Qk1
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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qk2
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Elston, yep, you've had some top sheet eruption there which is too proud to be left as it'll mean that a lot of the torsional load on the binding will be on the mounting screws rather than transmitted directly on the ski (as when the binding is sitting flat).
You have a couple of options:
1. Warm up the insert for 15-30 secs with the tip of soldering iron to soften the epoxy & then use an M5 screw/double lock nut assembly to remove the insert to enable you to dress off the top sheet with a chisel & check the hole/thread depth etc prior to re-gluing/re-installation etc.
2. Use a file/dremel to flush down the top sheet/insert. To avoid damaging the internal thread you MUST first install an M5x5mm grub screw in to the insert until it bottoms out - this can then removed after filing/grinding to 're-cut' any damage to the top thread of the insert. I've got the grub screws in stock if you need some.
BTW, from your other pics it looks like the other 'unaffected' holes still have a slightly raised surrounding & also need dressing off with a chisel. Hopefully you're dressing off any burrs on the top sheet after the both the initial drilling & then after tapping the thread?
This type of top sheet eruption (also known as volcano'ing) often happens when bindings are installed conventionally but one never sees it as the binding covers the area. The problem with a Quiver Killer insert is that ones work is always on show
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Have passed a sharp blade across the base of the volcano with no worries, does the trick - do it slowly, one sweep rarely does itf
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spyderjon, barry thanks.
Based on the above pics would the binding even sit flush to the ski?
I must admit that I was expecting a job well done, or at the very least a finished product, for the price paid and it would be a lot of hassle to drop them back to the shop.
I'll think about what to do in the morning but TBH I could do without the hassle.
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top of your insert should be JUST below flush with the ski - it shouldnt be flush with top of volcano. if it is, get it in further to where it should naturally sit, then you should still be able to trim back the volcano sides - should be pretty easy to remove
this is actually pretty common - not only when do inserts, happens doing striaght-attached bindings too - trick is clean up the hole including any volcanoing before proceeding to mount/insert. But you should still be able to tidy it up at this stage without too much hassle
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Elston, mostly it's the skis construction that causes it unless the insert hole has been drilled too shallow - which is unlikely as the installation drill has either a stop collar or shoulder & the other holes are all fine. I've had ones like that although with experience (I've installed over 800 sets) you get to know the makes/models that might be susceptible however it's only a few minutes job to dress them down properly. Some skis you can never get truly smooth but that's no diffferent to mounting a conventional binding. They do need some attention though to correctly seat the binding to the ski so I'd take 'em back to whoever installed them.
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I suppose it would depend on a number of factors, such as height of "volcano" and binding material, but could you not slightly countersink the binding plate so it sits flat?. Bit extreme I suppose so I await being shot down in flames.
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^ really no need (and i know i'd make a balls of it!). Countersinking is a good point though - if you use a proper counter sink "ski" drill to drill the ski, this issue is reduced (but can still sometimes occur, but it is certainly easier to clean up the raised/split material if hole is "countersunk")
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