 Poster: A snowHead
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@MHskier, I noticed that Courmayeur was 100% shut today whereas Monterosa was partially open (especially the middle valley). La Thuile had the most lifts open in the Aosta Valley. Might be worth bearing in mind.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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100% really?! Is that lack of snow?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Courmayeur could have been shut because of wind, you need a cablecar or gondola to get up to any skiing.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@MHskier, high winds, not lack of snow. Even the lifts up from town / Dolonne / Val Veny were shut! But my point was - if it's forecast to be windy again tomorrow, Courmayeur might not be a better option than Monterosa. But La Thuile might be, even if it's only the lower lifts that can open.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Checked meteoblue again this morning and shows max 31kmh at checruit (courmayeur) vs 100 at cervinia though. They’re what 50 miles apart so could well be v different. La Thule starts with a gondola and we’ve already done there so will risk courmayeur.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@MHskier, let us know what conditions are like! I have to pop back to the UK for a meeting - badly timed! - so no skiing for me til Friday. 
Looking up towards Pila in the sunshine from our apartment just now and feeling rather hard done by, first world problems eh.
Am keeping an eye on Crevacol web cam though for this weekend...
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Stunning day at courmayeur today. It’s my third time there and the first time you could see Mont Blanc, low wind with blue skies. It’s such a pretty ski area. Loads of interesting little corners and the fresh snow really helped. Not sure it would stretch to a week but followed up a full day with a mooch around the town and a fantastic value pizza. Recommended.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Monterosa from frachey yesterday. Much drier everywhere compared to Pila and Courmayeur with soft spring conditions from 11 onwards on some of the pistest. Got as far as passo del salati which is a spectacular location for a drink. Pistes held up surprisingly well for the return (northerly) and a great days skiing was had. A bigger drive than I remembered from Aosta though and the walk in staffal to the gondola base and then between the top of that gondola and the sant Anna chair are a real pain.
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@MHskier, amazing, thanks for the updates! My other half popped up to pila yesterday and said it was lovely. I'm extremely envious of the pair of you.  Will be back on the slopes tomorrow.
Quick note on Turin airport - was meant to be flying from Milan but BA cancellation chaos - everything was very quick and efficient on a week day, I've just landed at 4.30 and am already on the bus into Turin at 5. That includes taxiing, passport control and picking up baggage. Have read elsewhere on here that it can be carnage on a weekend, which i can imagine as it's tiny.
Only passport and vax stuff checked at Gatwick, had the lot checked in Turin.
Re. The bus to the station from the airport, it's 7euro online via the arriva mypay app. Think it's a euro more expensive buying on the bus.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Last few days have been oddly hectic - work! - and last week's trip to the UK was very discombobulating; have got very used to our little chilled out Aosta life and found London a bit over the top, and the weather very British.
We had a nice pop up to Pila on Friday afternoon, though it was extremely busy (Carnival/half term cross over?) and extremely warm. Same on Monday; in fact Monday was probably the most chaotic I've seen on the slopes with lots of people strung across ledges/strewn around the pistes/straight lining small children. Piste 2 (EDIT - I meant piste 7/9!) was a good example - usually very quiet, it has a slightly narrow section where there's a kind of natural half pipe - it's very short and only takes a few short turns to get down normally. Monday it was lined with people employing the side slip/straight line plough effect, or just standing at the side regretting their choices. When we popped back up yesterday (Tuesday) lunchtime, empty slopes again. Man made snow holding up quite well in the upper parts of Pila, hard as nails but decent and mainly just slushy on the lower sections, though there are some seriously icy bits around the lifts now after all the people over the last couple of weeks. Hoping that a little top up this weekend will help matters, we'll see.
Saturday we took a day off - Friday ski made us realise that everywhere would be ridiculously busy - and went to the Forte Di Bard which I highly recommend for a foul weather/can't be bothered day. Train from Aosta to Hone-Bard is direct and easy. The fort itself is enormous and holds I think 5 exhibitions as well as being interesting in its own right, and being in a gorgeous medieval village. Really worth going - we spent hours in the Alpine museum, the museum of Alpine fortifications, there was an exhibit about the fort itself, an Alpine natural history/anthropology bit, and the Wildlife Photographer of the Year which is always brilliant. In Bard, we had an excellent lunch at Casa Ciuca which hit many cheesy high notes, especially the traditional polenta with fontina, now just known as 'dirty polenta' and completely delicious. A really great day out, one of the great things about being in the area for a while is that we can explore some of the other things the valley has to offer.
On Sunday we headed to Valtournenche. We had thought we'd go to Chamois, which is apparently beautiful, but the snow situation meant they only had two runs open whereas everything including the valley run was open further up the road. Transport was train to Chatillon (20 mins) then bus up the hill to a stop (V. Cime Bianche) where you can walk down a few steps onto the Gran Pista valley run - ski in ski out!! The valley is gorgeous, must be absolutely wonderful in summer with loads of great walking routes.
Anyway, boots on next to the piste and down to the Salette gondola. Valtournenche is obviously connected to Cervinia, but we chose to just do this sector as we hope to come back and do Cervinia/Zermatt as a two day stay. We had a very sunny, very low wind day, and this place is perfect for those conditions - wide open, no cover, just sunshine and snow. The snow itself was ok, a little bare in places and lovely in others, lots of man made. The mix of gentle blues (there's a really nice learner slope off the Motta chair) and reds with enough steep to be challenging for the likes of me was good - we particularly liked the little Stadio Slalom Variente (the Stadio Slalom run was being used for training) and the Super Gigante off the top of Cime Bianche. The slopes were fairly busy but not rammed, and the only pinch points on the main runs were off the top of Cie Bianche where there's a lemming ledge. We had a nice if slightly pricey lunch at La Roisette which is self service but the food is freshly made - our pasta bowls were tasty but quite small for 13 euro a pop. Husband recommends the carbonara.
Being a wuss, I had suggested downloading in case the snow on the valley run was shot, but husband persuaded me to get on with it so at the end of the day we took the Gran Pista down to the bus stop. This run is fabulous, long and a bit twisty, decently steep and generally a lot of fun. BUT - do it when everyone else isn't. It was mild carnage towards the end of the day, so many people who perhaps shouldn't have been on it, so some very careful skiing was required. Have to say actually that everyone bar a few loons were really careful going down, and for all my fears the snow on the piste was great except for right at the bottom. Do watch out for the bit just before the tunnel under the main road, the piste suddenly narrows, it's suddenly bumpy and cambered (and full of victims), and the bit through the tunnel is also bumpy as hell - I took it a bit too fast (for once, not my usual style) and just about made it through upright on one leg. Had to help a couple of people up who appeared at the end of the tunnel on their bums having perhaps misjudged their entry. One person came out backwards, impressive! 
The way home was more annoying - there was an hour to wait between the bus and the train, and there is literally nothing to do in the train station bit of Chatillon (even the bar at the station was closed). I would consider if doing it again getting a taxi down from Valtournenche to meet the train. All in all though a great day out, really looking forward to exploring further in this direction.
Whilst we're at it, a massive recommendation for dinner in Aosta - last night we went to Birrifico 63 (we meant to go for a nice comforting bowl of pasta but loads of places were shut) and had really excellent bbq ribs with roast potatoes, some deep friend battered things of the cheesy and vegetably variety, and good beer from their brewery (Swing was cracking for a lager drinker). Food was enormous and amazing quality, ribs melted in the mouth, and the bill for the lot was around 50 euro. Really rated this place for a bit of solid comfort food.
In other news, my skiing has been getting increasingly tense and rubbish, so I have a two hour lesson booked on Thursday with Evolution ski school up in Pila. We were booked to have a lesson with Phil Brown of Impulse a couple of weeks ago but he broke himself and cancelled, and I probably should have booked something immediately that happened. Oh well, better late than never, and a bit of guidance should help me get through the mental block! Will let you know how that went later in the week.
Until then, praying to the snow gods and trying to appreciate the wall to wall sunshine. 
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Thu 3-03-22 17:17; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@ElzP, Really enjoying your posts! Please keep up the great work. Oh, and keep praying to the snow Gods, I need them for the Aosta valley myself next week.
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@ElzP, thanks for continuing with the detailed reports, and good luck with the lessons! Looks like some cool weather coming up which will at least help preserve the snow.
Hope you don't mind me asking a question about parking? On your wanders, have you seen whether the car parks close to the city centre are free for overnight parking (not during skiing hours). Our apartment is in the centre, like yours, and we'll have a hire car.
I know parking at the Pila gondola is free but somewhere closer would reduce time lugging ski gear around. Google Streetview suggests that central, outdoor car parks are free 6pm-8am, which might just about cover it, but not sure if that information is up to date.
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You know it makes sense.
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@denfinella, yes - free 6pm til 8am, certainly the parking round us. Finding a spot could be fun but the streets to the north of the old town might be a good bet.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@ElzP, thank you!
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Poster: A snowHead
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It's been a while! We took a bit of time off to travel around this week so there's been a bit of falling asleep after eating and drinking too much...
Hot of the press - it snowed in Pila today! Began last night - yes, very light, and not likely to make a huge difference to the knackered icy base which is still evident, but snow none the less. Despite the terrible visibility, had some of the nicest skiing today for a while, plus a cracking bowl of soup with cheese in the place at the top of Chamole. Unfortunately, we didn't spot Sofia Goggia who was training here today - saw them putting the nets away and skied over the blue line (not down it!) they'd laid on run 12. Husband was gutted. Forecast is for a bit more over the next couple of days, with a bit more wind tomorrow - we shall see. Best pistes still off the top of Leisses and Nouva, the runs off Chamole are icy at the tops and at the bottoms, and fine in between. We really enjoyed 13 today, and the 9/7 combo starting from Leisses.
I mentioned I was going to have some lessons to try and restore my bottle, which I've been seriously losing on anything vaguely steep - maybe the icy conditions, maybe unfitness, maybe the two year break and the world outside - and I've had two over the last week. First was with Evolution ski school in Pila, with the very sweet Stefano who couldn't have been more gently encouraging, I imagine he's great with kids and certainly good for nerves. That couple of hours focused very much on getting my position straightened out and body facing down the hill, lots of work with and without poles, which did help. Unfortunately didn't help with the fear gremlins which reappeared in force (see later).
Second lesson after a few bad days was in Cervinia, and was three hours with a brilliant lady called Alessandra booked through Maison Sport. This lesson went the other way, and focused on leg angle, stance and power, and intentional skiing. Husband joined for this one, and actually that was useful as the instructor decided I was more than capable of working at his level - I found this gave me a boost, and whilst I was still slower and a bit more tentative I was able to do more than I thought. One thing the lesson lacked was steeps, as the main area in Cervinia kind of lacks them! But I felt improved enough, and understood enough more about weight and movement to feel much more comfortable and less static in Pila today (don't get me wrong, I know the steeper pitches in Pila probably aren't steep to anyone who can actually ski, but to me they are precipices lined with ice). Being static in fear is not a good thing... funnily enough hard to ski if you don't move. 
Over this week we've skied in Pila, La Thuile, Courmeyeur and Cervinia, so I'll try and keep observations on each short...
We stayed over in Courmeyeur for a couple of nights, and had hired a car (Ferrato in Aosta, cheaper than the other hire places - 40E a day - very friendly but zero English spoken, car was fine), so we could explore at a more leisurely pace. Hotel Crampon was the cosiest place I've ever stayed in Italy, it's simple but super friendly and super comfortable, recommend. Courmeyeur skiing didn't do much to rise in my estimation this time round, and of course like everywhere it's got scoured and icy, though the snow making was noticeably good and pistes decent higher up. There's something about being near Mont Blanc that freaks me out - so damn high - so my bottle was in short supply. But I practiced on the front bowl, while the OH went off to play around the Gabba and Bertoloni lifts, which he really enjoyed. Courmeyeur town is very attractive, kept amused by the posh shops, and it was full of English people. We had a delicious pizza at the Tunnel - thanks for the recommendation! - and a decent steak at Beer Pub Mont Frety, though the music was a bit bloody loud for dinner. I didn't think the prices were much higher than anywhere else in the valley, which surprised me slightly.
Tuesday we went over to La Thuile. I'd say the best conditions are over there, it actually felt like there was some snow underfoot, though a bit variable. By this point though, anywhere with less ice is my friend. Shame, the bottle went again, and my OH had to explore over the top and into France on his own. He reported better snow conditions on that side, and a beautiful landscape. He also reported that coming back to Italy, it's possible to not bother with the second drag lift (Bellecombe 2) and instead ski 26 from the top of Bellecombe 1 to the bottom of the Fourclaz Express chair. I meanwhile did some more practicing around Chalet Express, which was about all I was good for - don't know if anyone else has experienced the paralysing 'can't do it' fear, but goodness I do not recommend it, sure way to spoil the fun.
Wednesday we took a day off skiing and used our free go up the Skyway Mont Blanc. As it has been for what feels like weeks, the sun was shining and the wind low, so perfect conditions for the big views. It's a great experience, and sitting out on the snow in deckchairs at the middle station was lovely. It's also a bit vertiginous if you're that way inclined, and I am; even my fingernails turned grey after the world slightly swayed. I'm so good at this mountain lark eh! Was fun watching the serious skiers head off for some off piste action, and even more serious (mad?!) skiers glide down on parachutes and landing on their skis. After that we headed to Technosport in Aosta for some boot faff - my footbeds had collapsed so got some heel lifts etc sorted, much better now! - and finally a new helmet after OH noticed a dent in mine following my fall at the beginning of our time here. Oops. The guys at this shop are great, really helpful, and was easy to get round there with the car.
Have rambled above about our lesson in Cervinia. I really liked it here, probably because it felt less demanding! We did stick to the main front side for our lesson and didn't venture much beyond except for a couple of the village runs - slush at the end of the day, which I'll take over ice! The lack of snow is, as everywhere, making the pistes icy, and again the pistes were better higher up, but so many gentle slopes have kept decent cover. If I had a learner to bring and the weather was looking decent, Cervinia would be the place. We had lunch at the self service bit of Chalet Etoile which was fine and better value/bigger than a similar lunch in Valtournenche the other week, didn't think to book a table but will next time. Our instructor also recommended the Rifugio Teodulo for lunch, and you can stay there as well - that would be an experience, sleeping at 3301 metres! Next time. We spent most time on pistes 6, 27 and 29, all gentle reds and very nice. It was all very chilled out really - think I was expecting Cervinia to have more of a 'big resort' feel give the Zermatt link, but it felt very comfortable and accessible. Thumbs up from me.
In all, a series of 'next time' impressions from me - next time in La Thuile I'll ski over to France, probably getting over there first thing to have the best possibility of smooth pistes before the high traffic bumps them up. Next time in Cervinia I'll ski down run 7 and it'll be a breeze, and we'll pop to Zermatt. Next time in Courmeyeur I'll not let the wobbles take over and make the most of the runs there are. More lessons required. I'd say next time I won't nearly pass out up the Skyway, but b*gger getting on that again.
Most of all doing a snow dance in the hope it continues for a while and we get a decent end to our two months snow-wise. Fingers crossed!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@denfinella, thank you! Really appreciate the slope tips, that's super kind.
Have discovered today that nothing is as steep or scary when there is actual snow on the ground.  I'll amend the snow dance to 'snow overnight, and cold blue skies during the day' - that'd do us I reckon!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@ElzP, yep I would definitely settle for that!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Feast or famine in Pila this week with the snow:
Monday - cold, blue sky morning with quite a bit of fresh snow, absolutely glorious.
Tuesday - out in the afternoon, by which time the heavy snow we'd peaked at on the webcams in the morning was a few inches of brown slushy bumps from the desert dust. Looked like lightly toasted meringue, skied like driving with the handbrake on, and in the lower parts was completely flattened. Revolting.
Wednesday - the bashers had done a great job of sorting out the sh*t-show of Tuesday, though all the pistes were slightly beige and uneven. Plenty of nice cold cord first thing in the morning, but the snow was already beginning to soften significantly by 10.30am when we headed back for work. Lovely to ski higher up, but threatening another slush fest lower down. Am a bit obsessed with run 14 (off blue 15 from Leisse) at the moment, it always seems to be really well prepped and has some nice varied gradients and terrain. It's also relatively long combined with 19/19a from Couis 2.
Met with the lovely denfinella and partner for dinner - thanks guys! - and steered them into Gekoo bar on the town square which has great cocktails, and very good value! I recommend the Especial Mojito with dark rum. 
The weather is warm - very spring like in town - and daytime temps in double figures are forecast for the next couple of days. We're off to Champoluc to meet friends on Friday and staying all weekend so have fingers crossed for slightly colder temps over there, and perhaps some snow. Have taken note that La Sapin restaurant is highly rated by some on here so will definitely be trying that for dinner one night!
Can't quite believe we only have 2 and a half weeks left here! Going to have to pack in as much as possible.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Staying at Courmayer for a week and hoping to visit some of the other resorts. Which ski pass would you recommend.
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@brovert, depends how much you want to travel around - 6 day Courmayeur pass offers two days elsewhere which would probably be enough for many, you could do La Thuile/La Ros and Pila.
Mind you, the 6 day valley pass is only 25 E more expensive and gives full flexibility (except Zermatt, more money for that). Some long drives if you go further than Pila from Courmayeur though, might not end up being much of a holiday! Snow has been a bit better in La Thuile so you may want to spend more time there, and valley pass gives you the option to chase snow.
Horses for courses!
https://www.courmayeur-montblanc.com/?q=daily_tarifs&language=en
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@ElzP, hope you enjoyed Monterosa today!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@denfinella, we did.
Going to have a lengthy rave about Monte Rosa here - will maybe split into two posts! Maybe it was just the circumstances, but we've had the best weekend skiing.
The circs were - my best mate from school was over there on a ski esprit hol at the Hotel de Champoluc with total beginner husband, 3 year old sprog, and her mum and dad. My chum and her parents have been skiing for donkeys years, she's done seasons, etc, so we were expecting a weekend of trying to keep up. As it happened, her dad has packed it in and her mum had taken a nasty tumble the day before we arrived, so we just skied with my mate and she couldn't have been a better ski guide.
Friday morning we grabbed our skis and got the 8.40 train from Aosta to Verres (30 mins), then ten minutes after arriving at Verres the bus up to Champoluc (takes around 50 mins). We'd skipped breakfast so dumped our bags at the hotel l'aiglon which we'd booked for two nights, sorted storage next to the gondola for skis and boots (rent2play, 10 euros for the 3 days - my mate J had rental skis off them, really nice stokli in the advanced category and her mum had head super joys in the intermediate category, decent!), and had lunch at the kondor next door where they knocked us up some omelettes even though the kitchen was closed. Phew!
We then headed up the gondola to meet J and co, and she took us off to ski the champoluc and frachey side. I for one was incredibly grateful, the visibility was really poor, and the route from Champoluc to Frachey isn't simple. On the way up J said she'd been told repeatedly that 'the goat' - the red run over to the connection, was a stinker. Frankly, apart from the first turn being a bit 'oh, ok...', i didn't notice much as she lead us down expertly and i couldn't see a bloody thing. My body can clearly do steep even if my mind can't...
We skied all we could on that side - the red down from Bettaforca to Frachey a highlight - then headed back to Champoluc side. The connection is via an old two way chair which gives you a good smack in the legs, and you have to be pretty swift and careful getting off it coming back to Champoluc, we saw a few wipe outs.
The conditions underfoot were decent up top, but went from sugar to full slush as we descended each run. J and i decided we wanted the home run feeling, so we headed down the slushy bumpy nonsense into the village - my OH and J's OH, who had been practicing on the baby slope at the top of the first gondola, downloaded.
We sensibly decided to meet for bombardinos, beers and shots at Kondor (they have a terrace at the end of the piste), before we headed for a pre dinner snooze and they went to sort their sprog. They'd kindly arranged for us to have dinner at their hotel so we could properly catch up, so can report for anyone looking at ski esprit or Inghams there, the staff are lovely, the food is decent and plentiful, the cocktails excellent and the wine free flowing. We paid 25 euros each to join and that includes booze. Of which we drank a lot. 
We were drunk enough to not be able to find a light switch when we got back to our room, but that was no problem for the incredibly friendly and helpful l'aiglon staff. Really rated this hotel, fairly simple but good bathroom, really cosy room, and breakfast was probably the best I've had in a ski hotel. Homemade pastries, local cheese, ham and yogurts, eggs and bacon, boiled eggs... we stuffed ourselves. And the staff - so friendly. In fact, brilliant staff is a feature of each hotel we've stayed at in the valley.
I'll do a separate post about day two and three. But safe to say, Monterosa already had us hooked, even in the gloom and with an impending hangover...
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| ElzP wrote: |
| We were drunk enough to not be able to find a light switch ... |
I think that is enough to tell us it was a good weekend!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@ElzP, I guess you have left, but Lo Bistrot was at the top of their game last night.
I can not believe we actually ordered, and drank, magnum of Teo Costa's finest Nebbiolo.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@j b, could have felt better the next morning.
@under a new name, delicious! Wow, that must have been a treat.
@t44tomo, I never believe everything I read on the internet...  To be honest, I thought it would be too challenging for me given my recent struggles - a classic case of don't judge a resort by its piste map!
On to day 2, and we woke up feeling rather fragile. We'd arranged to meet J over in Frachey fairly early for a day of skiing as much as we could; we made it up the funicular at 10.30am. Never mind! We first headed up and over towards Stafal, where J and my OH came down the fun slope and I swished down the piste beside, on very nice snow at this point. The run down is lovely and dead easy until you get to the bottom of the chair lift back up - at that point you turn off left onto a bit of a narrow road. Tip 1 - don't miss the turning. Tip 2 - try and stay upright on the magic carpet back to that piste when a tiny child falls over in front of you...
The road leads to the most unpleasant bit of skiing we had all day - what felt like a long wall of fake snow-slush whipped up into bumps, littered with casualties, strewn with people having a rest. This section of piste is wide, but felt steep (and looked it from the other side) and the conditions were not ideal. If I'd realised I could download on the old cable car I'd probably have done so with hindsight, but at least there was the satisfaction on having achieved something without freaking out! It's probably lovely with cold snow on it.
On we headed up to Passo Salati and over towards Alagna. We popped down the short blues which were very nice and relaxing, and then heading back up - at which point I opted for a hot chocolate while J and my OH went off to ski at least the black run V3 down towards Alagna. They reported back that it was a relatively gentle black with a couple of steepish pitches, but was becoming very slushy towards the bottom, so they didn't bother skiing all the way down to the valley.
Back up to Passo Salati, and we skied the runs over towards Gressoney La Trinite. Red G7 from the top was really nice, and in the sunshine felt like a breeze. Back at Gabiet, I opted to download which the others skied black G6 to Stafal. They reported great conditions and hardly anyone on the run, with again just a couple of steep pitches on what would otherwise by a fairly easy road piste. The bottom was apparently a little hairy due to slush, and there's a walk from the end of the run to the cable car back towards Champoluc. Still, they said it was worth doing! Back over towards Champoluc and it was seriously warm - slushy bumps already formed on the second half of run C14 off Bettaforca, and the runs back down into the villages were pretty revolting on tired legs! All of us totally forgot to have lunch, so went easy on the beer in Kondor - but we all had the good feeling of having travelled around, skied some nice runs, all in all very satisfying. Oh, and that sun is strong - we were all rather red despite having applied sun cream in the morning.
Leaving J and family to enjoy the last night of their holiday at their hotel, we had booked La Sapin for dinner due to the many recommendations I'd seen. It did not disappoint, especially for a hungover pair who hadn't eaten since breakfast. A nice bottle of Nebbiolo went very well with the typical cheesy, hammy Valdostanan dishes, and we just about stayed awake long enough to finish it!
Day 3 we were aiming to get the bus down to the valley at 3.30, and we were TIRED. So we had a very chilled day, long breakfast, and skied as far as Sant'Anna on the Stafal side. The difference in the conditions underfoot was marked - cold over night had left the pistes pretty hard and in some places (run C1 into Champoluc sticks in the mind...) icey. The Goat run mentioned previously was not great for me as a family group with very small children was strung out across it having trouble, so I had to stop picking my way down and found it difficult to get going again. Still, managed it, and it's all a learning experience. It's a funny little piste, a couple of sharpish corners and steepish drops at the beginning are the worst of it, but it's dark and enclosed and just looks a bit intimidating. It also has one of those 'expert skiers only' signs at the top which always put me about.  If you were feeling less confident, or with less confident people, I'd say get the bus up to Frachey instead of having that as the first run of the day. It's not one for a warm up. Generally though, a nice little ski around, before a quick burger lunch at Kondor, picking up our stuff from the hotel and getting the bus. 25 minutes wait for the train at Verres going this way, but that's no big hardship and the train was on time.
Dinner that night - a Chinese takeaway from Yi Koux Xiang. It was really good! Just what was needed, and an antidote to cheese.
Overall, as I said, we had a fantastic weekend. Whilst I wouldn't like to be a beginner in Monterosa, it's got some really lovely runs for anyone intermediatey, with the odd bit of challenge but nothing that can't be overcome. Others on here have mentioned the feeling of wildness you get once you're away from the villages, and it is really very beautiful - a completely different feeling from resorts in a bowl where all the runs lead to the same one or two places. The nature of the resort means that many of the runs are good and long as well, which is a bit lacking in some of the other Aosta Valley resorts. We really loved everything about it - food, friendliness, skiing, scenery - and will be back.
In other news - had a text off our instructor from Cervinia, Alessandra, to say she was going to be in Aosta this week and would I like a lesson. Jumped on it, any opportunity, and had 2 hours Monday morning. It was interesting, my onesided-ness becoming more apparent during some of the exercises (going to have to do some serious work on that as my left and right turns are very different in quality). But most interesting was when we swapped skis. I've been skiing a pair of S/Max W8 at 150, so I thought about right for my pootling style and lower intermediate ability. She made me try a pair of Rossy Pursuit 600 CAM in 170 (her mum's skis ) and they felt absolutely brilliant - stable, I could go a bit faster without worrying, nicely into a turn. Anyway, she advised that perhaps over the last 5 weeks I'd actually become a stronger skier despite all my anxieties, and it was time for a longer, more stable and slightly stiffer ski so I could have the confidence to go faster and work on carving, as well as deal with the inevitable spring slush which the S/Max dislike. This morning I took myself off to technosport and hired a pair of Head e-magnum in 163 under their guidance. Got given a price of 60 euros for 2 weeks hire and they may do me a deal for my S/Max and stick them in their hire pool. I can't recommend these guys enough, there's always a deal or discount to be had and they know their onions. Looking forward to trying the magnums out (they will probably kick my back bottom and I'll be back skidding around on soft lady skis tomorrow ) and have another lesson on Friday to test the theory.
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You know it makes sense.
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Loving this thread. Working remotely myself I have been seriously looking into the possibilities for something like this next season. Mind if I inquire as to the living arrangements you guys have? Was it easy to find a rental for that period of time + what did it cost in that region of Italy/elsewhere you considered?
TIA!
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Sounds brilliant - wish I was still out there  I'd be interested to hear more about the logistics of doing a season too.
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Poster: A snowHead
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@mclovin, thanks! We have literally packed all our belongings into storage in the UK, and moved out of a rental flat, so we're only paying rent over here. We found a good 1 bed apartment on airbnb which has space at the table for both our laptops, for £1000 a month which is far less than we were paying in the uk. We're off to Croatia for hopefully a year after we've finished here. We have no ties really and both run our own companies so gave ourselves permission to work remotely.
We considered Grenada for Sierra Nevada, and an equivalent airbnb would probably have been about 1500 a month. However, the ski convenience here is just so good - I'm not sure there's another decent sized town to beat it though willing to be corrected! Feel free to ask any questions about arrangements.
@denfinella, the sun is back. It's like you and everyone else went home - Pila is absolutely empty today apart from a couple of school groups. Pretty weird, but means the dreaded ice isn't so bad yet. At times earlier it felt like we had the place to ourselves, and some runs still had some cord at lunchtime. Town however is hopping with the evenings drawing out!
Conditions good to try out my new skis - and they were brilliant. I'll probably start a different thread in an attempt to understand why they are so much better, but I'll definitely keep the magnums for the rest of our time here. I'm so excited to have a bit more confidence on my planks!!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, it's been a decent week all round.
Conditions on piste in Pila have kept up pretty decently since the last snow fall/Saharan dust, although like everywhere it's getting very slushy towards the bottom and by lunchtime there are puddles in the most sunny places. The last run down to the top of the Aosta gondola is particularly watery. It has been slowly getting icier as well, but not to the extent of horrid sheet ice it was a couple of weeks ago. Perfect for a final lesson with Alessandra on Friday, where she took me down black 10 (I'd come a cropper there before) and it was absolutely fine. That'll do!
We got across to La Thuile on Sunday to conquer another demon - I'd had a very bad day there a couple of weeks ago, and was quite grumpy about the massive fail. This time round - sorted. We went straight over towards La Rosiere, very hard pistes on the way out where the sun hadn't done its work yet. As we reached Fort, it was clear that it was a touch windy over La Ros side, nearly got blown off! Over in the La Ros bowl the wind was brutal, and after a couple of trips up the Plan du Repos gondola it was more than time for a quick hot choc stop (very friendly in LA Traversette at the bottom of the Fort gondola), and the mission back to La Thuile.
The snow all over is a mix of icy and blow, choppy or slushy, but the runs there and back were still ok early on. A couple were quite tough (for me) though - 54 off Fort down to the Bellecombe drag has some intimidating corners and some folk were having a struggle (not me for once, hurray!), and the runs off Fort towards La Ros were very icy which increased their perceived steepness... we took 44 and the first few turns were not nice, but fine thereafter. The Bellcombe 1 drag, though long, is quite relaxed, and I was pleased it's a button as T bars are the work of the devil when you're 5'2 and your husband is 6 foot. Back over in La Thuile where it was significantly less windy, everything nearer the top was skiing lovely, just a touch softer than the morning. Down towards the lift bottoms and on sunny corners, mushy bumps. After lunch at the Offshore bar which was recommended up thread, and was indeed a very quirky and a fun place to stop, we braved a couple more runs but tired legs and swiftly deteriorating snow made us decide to download rather than doing a valley run. We'd achieved what we set out to do!
An aside -we were chatting to a chap and his daughter on the bus (they were over from Courmeyeur) - they'd braved the La Ros side for the day and were livid to hear there'd been much less wind on the Italian side. Poor sods - the daughter was going to take a long time to warm up. Very glad we headed back when we did, after all we're meant to be skiing for fun not pushinshment!
The bus there and back was straightforward, first the Courmeyeur bus from the bus station to Pre St Didier (stop 'SS26'), then the La Thuile bus picks up in the car park behind. The bus back likewise involves getting off at one stop (Centro) and wandering round to the main road to pick up the Aosta bus at SS26. About a 15 minute wait at each change. Back home it was cheese, ham and wine and a well deserved sofa pass out in front of some rubbish TV. Extremely satisfying.
It looks like there might be some snow this week, just before we go home! Exactly one week to go... we're currently watching the valley coming alive for spring, the lower slopes are looking very green and the blossom is out, and today the sun is shining and I'll maybe go for a hike later to make the most of it. Town is suddenly buzzing with the longer, warmer nights, and there's a lovely atmosphere in the evening. We've really grown to love Aosta and it's great to watch it wake up after winter. If we do get the snow, hopefully we'll get a couple of days of non-ice skiing before we pack up. Fingers crossed! However, I hope it doesn't put a dampener on the Festival of St Ours which is happening next weekend, they've been setting up over the last few days and it looks like there will be all sorts going on.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Thanks for the continued updates! It must be nice being able to watch the seasons change in Aosta.
Hope you get some fresh snow to end on a high 
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@denfinella, cheers!
A quick update to say - it's snowing! Forecasts vary as to how much we'll get over the next five days, but it's much needed. Yesterday the conditions were not good, and so thin at the lower end of the resort that we were wondering how long they could keep some runs open, especially the Chamole lift access and the area running down to the gondola. A few days of snow and low temps might just sort that out!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Funny for me to have just stumbled across this thread. I’ve been going to Monta Rosa (Gressoney) for years, always in March. The skiing on the Champuloc side is particularly dreamy. Wonderful traditional vibe, long mellow runs. Great spring snow even this year Which is said to be the worst for 40 years. Also love Val Toutnenche in Cervinia (similar vibe to Champoluc). Also liked Pila and La Thuile. Would love to explore some of the other small resorts in the area such as Antagnod, Cogne etc. And I second what a nice town Aosta is. The perfect base.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@Davidgdg, Champoluc town is also lovely if you ever fancy a change from Gressoney!
We're a bit sad not to be able to try the smaller areas, Antagnod and Crevacol in particular. Cogne was definitely not at its best this season, we're told that the ski school had a bad time as there's only a red run to progress to off the blue at the bottom, but conditions made it too dangerous. We'll definitely come back at some point to try the others, and bet they are even more quiet than the big areas in late March.
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@denfinella, Hi... what was the contactless V cash situation like...
Don't really want to take cash if I can help it...
Any probs in the mountain huts
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@Gaz_H, this is @ElzP's thread (mine is in my signature below), but we used a random mix of card and cash and always seemed to be fine. The only place card didn't seek to work was at a self service petrol pump.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Gaz_H, a couple of on mountain places have been cash only, though I'm blowed if i can remember which - will try and think. But cash for small amounts seems to be preferred in the local little shops. We always try to have a bit handy for those purposes and tips.
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@ElzP, @denfinella, thanks Guys. Both excellent threads regardless
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FAQ
