 Poster: A snowHead
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@spyderjon, a belated thanks for the response. I may be in touch! First I need to see if I can source kids boots with pin fixings for my daughter.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| spyderjon wrote: |
Shift brakes run wider than their stated size. They come in 90mm, 100mm, 110mm & 128mm widths but measured from inside face to inside face of the plastic feet their actual widths are 8mm wider that their stated widths. However there's a reason for this and it's due the way the levers deploy so to ensure reliable depolyment, particularly on ski designs with less sloping sidewalls &/or a square junction of the sidewall/topsheet, I'd not fit them to skis that are more than 5/6mm wider than the stated brake width - & even then a bit of profiling of the plastic feet may be necessary to ensure that they don't catch. So that means a 90mm brake will work on 95/96mm ski.
Bending of the brake levers should be done with caution (ie plenty of support at the elbow) as if the top end of the levers are altered it will effect their ability to lock-up when in tour mode. |
Hey Jon,
I found this reply whilst working on a wee dilemma and hope you can help. Im going the export my Shifts with a 100mm brake and 100mm crampon onto the QST106. From the above, it looks possible, maybe with a bit of tweaking. Have you had any further experience with this!? Am I going to be lucky or buying parts.....
Thanks for your help, and hope that you are well!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Husky Dave wrote: |
| spyderjon wrote: |
Shift brakes run wider than their stated size. They come in 90mm, 100mm, 110mm & 128mm widths but measured from inside face to inside face of the plastic feet their actual widths are 8mm wider that their stated widths. However there's a reason for this and it's due the way the levers deploy so to ensure reliable depolyment, particularly on ski designs with less sloping sidewalls &/or a square junction of the sidewall/topsheet, I'd not fit them to skis that are more than 5/6mm wider than the stated brake width - & even then a bit of profiling of the plastic feet may be necessary to ensure that they don't catch. So that means a 90mm brake will work on 95/96mm ski.
Bending of the brake levers should be done with caution (ie plenty of support at the elbow) as if the top end of the levers are altered it will effect their ability to lock-up when in tour mode. |
Hey Jon,
I found this reply whilst working on a wee dilemma and hope you can help. Im going the export my Shifts with a 100mm brake and 100mm crampon onto the QST106. From the above, it looks possible, maybe with a bit of tweaking. Have you had any further experience with this!? Am I going to be lucky or buying parts.....
Thanks for your help, and hope that you are well! |
Hey bud, good to hear from you.
You'll be fine with the brakes but you're on the cusp with the 100mm crampons as their internal width is 105-106mm so whether they'll fit will be depend on the individual crampon you have and the actual width of the ski at the point where the crampon locates which is often a bit wider as it's further up the ski. But it's also common for the actual width of the ski to be different than its stated width, eg the 19/20 QST 106 is actually 105mm underfoot in the 181cm length.
The crampons are really hard anodized aluminium and it's highly likely that they'll crack if you try to bend them. If you're brave enough to try then use constant pressure as opposed to hitting them! If only a tad needs removing from each side then it's better/safer to use a Dremel/die grinder to thin down the arms (with regular dunks in water so they don't get too hot) rather than trying to bend them.
Hope this helps.
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@Husky Dave, Jon put shifts on my 2018 188 qst106 recently. The brakes were indeed 100mm but put on by the master himself so all worked perfectly. For the crampons I could go and check what they are if that would help
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Hey bud, good to hear from you.
You'll be fine with the brakes but you're on the cusp with the 100mm crampons as their internal width is 105-106mm so whether they'll fit will be depend on the individual crampon you have and the actual width of the ski at the point where the crampon locates which is often a bit wider as it's further up the ski. But it's also common for the actual width of the ski to be different than its stated width, eg the 19/20 QST 106 is actually 105mm underfoot in the 181cm length.
The crampons are really hard anodized aluminium and it's highly likely that they'll crack if you try to bend them. If you're brave enough to try then use constant pressure as opposed to hitting them! If only a tad needs removing from each side then it's better/safer to use a Dremel/die grinder to thin down the arms (with regular dunks in water so they don't get too hot) rather than trying to bend them.
Hope this helps.[/quote]
Hey Jon,
Thats really good info. Looks like I win some, loose some there! Great that I don't have to mess around with a new set of brakes, but not so with the crampons.
Was hoping not to have another 2cm width of crampon clatter to deal with but the margins are tiny. I reckon I'll be buying the 120mm crampons and over time have a go at getting the 100mm to fit during a down day.
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| mooney058 wrote: |
| @Husky Dave, Jon put shifts on my 2018 188 qst106 recently. The brakes were indeed 100mm but put on by the master himself so all worked perfectly. For the crampons I could go and check what they are if that would help |
Hey Mooney,
Would be great to hear what Spiderjon was able to do for you on that one. If you're able to dig them out, be great to know. Order is going in tomorrow!
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| Husky Dave wrote: |
| mooney058 wrote: |
| @Husky Dave, Jon put shifts on my 2018 188 qst106 recently. The brakes were indeed 100mm but put on by the master himself so all worked perfectly. For the crampons I could go and check what they are if that would help |
Hey Mooney,
Would be great to hear what Spiderjon was able to do for you on that one. If you're able to dig them out, be great to know. Order is going in tomorrow! |
Indeed, brakes are 100mm and sitting neatly. Crampons are 120mm
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| mooney058 wrote: |
| Husky Dave wrote: |
| mooney058 wrote: |
| @Husky Dave, Jon put shifts on my 2018 188 qst106 recently. The brakes were indeed 100mm but put on by the master himself so all worked perfectly. For the crampons I could go and check what they are if that would help |
Hey Mooney,
Would be great to hear what Spiderjon was able to do for you on that one. If you're able to dig them out, be great to know. Order is going in tomorrow! |
Indeed, brakes are 100mm and sitting neatly. Crampons are 120mm |
Thanks for getting back - thats really appreciated! A productive wee chat gentlemen. Thanks - makes tomorrows big purchases a little smoother...
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@adithorp, Ouch!!! Bit of araldite should sort that ???!!!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| offpisteskiing wrote: |
| @adithorp, Ouch!!! Bit of @spyderjon-magic, should sort that ???!!! |
FIFY
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| offpisteskiing wrote: |
| @adithorp, Ouch!!! Bit of araldite should sort that ???!!! |
Seems like a gaffa tape problem to me.
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You know it makes sense.
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| offpisteskiing wrote: |
| @adithorp, Ouch!!! Bit of araldite should sort that ???!!! |
| Sharkymark wrote: |
| Seems like a gaffa tape problem to me. |
Nah, nothing that techy. It just buffed out......
Before:
After:
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Question for some Shift experts. Over the past few outings I've noticed a pronounced clicking coming from what I think is the toepiece of one of my Shifts when skinning. It occurs as I complete a step and my heel comes down again. I can't properly identify it other than I think its the toepiece. I wouldn't usually worry but it's quite an obvious noise and happens on every step. Even if it doesn't affect performance its a bit annoying....
Thanks in advance
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Poster: A snowHead
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Just one hopeful bump of this before I seek my answers elsewhere. Thanks again.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Meltus, I had a similar thing for the first time yesterday. I assumed it was due to the extreme cold and/or ice somewhere. Will let you know if it repeats next time out too!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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In the hope that feedback is better than silence: sorry @Meltus, I’ve never experienced that.
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@Meltus, @clarky999, I've not heard of that before.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@DB, that link is describing an out of adjustment AFD when in skiing mode whereas meltus & clarky are getting a clicking when in skinning mode when the boot is not in contact with the AFD. Two different scenarios.
meltus & clarky, where you in skinning in flat mode or did you have the climbing bar up?
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| spyderjon wrote: |
| @DB, that link is describing an out of adjustment AFD when in skiing mode whereas meltus & clarky are getting a clicking when in skinning mode when the boot is not in contact with the AFD. Two different scenarios. |
lol
Note to self "read the post properly first and then reply"
Ah well at least it's in the right thread.
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| spyderjon wrote: |
@DB, that link is describing an out of adjustment AFD when in skiing mode whereas meltus & clarky are getting a clicking when in skinning mode when the boot is not in contact with the AFD. Two different scenarios.
meltus & clarky, where you in skinning in flat mode or did you have the climbing bar up? |
Both. Hard to remember exactly now, but I would say the sound was somewhere almost between squeaking and clicking, and only from one binding. But again, that's the first and only time I've experienced that, with more than 50 tours on that particular pair of bindings, and temperatures were somewhere south of -20°C. It only started after having already climbed ~500 vert metres, and I'm absolutely NOT certain that it wasn't due to ice or snow getting stuck somewhere (under the toe of the boot maybe?)... But it felt a bit like there was a little bit of resistance somewhere while completing the step/rotating the heel down around the pins. OTOH it was so bloody-fu-freezing that I only noticed after 1100m that one of my boots was still in ski mode, so I'm not sure I actually trust that I actually felt what I think I felt! Will see if it occurs again in normal temperatures before I worry about it.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Hey, just to update in red hot temperatures yesterday I didn't notice the noise so it does seem like something to do with the cold?
I also have another issue which others may have experienced. On two occasions now, whilst skinning, the front half of the heelpiece has detached itself from the rest of the binding and would've fallen off had I not noticed. To fix it, I've turned the rear screw so that the rest of the heel piece moves forward until it becomes loose and can be removed. I've then "hooked" the front half of the heelpiece back into the rear half and slid them both back onto the rail before tightening the screw and setting the forward pressure again.
This seems like it fixes the issue but then it happens again. Two occasions isn't a massive issue but it is definitely an issue and if it happens and I don't notice it then I could be scuppered. Is this a known issue?
Thanks
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@Meltus, I think there was mention of similar issues earlier in this thread.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Hi guys — any suggestions on the *narrowest* slalom ski + touring binding setup possible? Everyone thinks I’m crazy but I love to ski tight radius turns on groomers here in the NE but still “earn my turns” on the way up — just for exercise. I just put a set of Shifts on my wider powder skis but shops are telling me there’s really no touring binding options for a narrower 70’s waist ski. Wondering if a race plate could perhaps help. Any ideas appreciated!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@matthewhart, whilst any tech binding will work on a narrower ski they're not designed/recommended for continual hardpack downhill performance so you really want an alpine binding with an uphill function. A narrow frame binding would work (ie, Marker Tour F10/12 but not the wider EPF model) but they're gonna suck on the up compared to a tech toe.
The Shift would be a great choice as it's a proper downhill binding with loads of elasticity. The narrowest ski I've mounted Shifts on was 76mm underfoot and you might be able to go a mm or two narrow. Their 90mm brakes are really 98mm which'd be waaaay too wide but it's a straightforward 'vice'n'pipe' job to rebend them narrower (being careful to to affect the lock-up mechanism. The Shifts have sufficient lift to not require a lifter plate to prevent boot-out plus you wouldn't want the added weight of a plate.
The new Marker Duke PT will also work on a mid 70mm ski but I've not tried narrowing their brakes but looking at them I think they're be a lot trickier to do than the Shifts. Between the Shift and the PT I'd pick the Shifts every time.
Or there's the CAST Freetour system which will work on 70mm skis as it's based upon Look Pivot 15/18 bindings for which there's a 75mm brake option.
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Hi,
On my shift 13 a plastic lever, which switch between ski and walk mode, broke. I've lost an invoice so its probably a no go with warranty replacement.
Does anybody know if it's possible to get a replacement lever and how to change it?
Cheers, Luka
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You know it makes sense.
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| slakuter wrote: |
Hi,
On my shift 13 a plastic lever, which switch between ski and walk mode, broke. I've lost an invoice so its probably a no go with warranty replacement.
Does anybody know if it's possible to get a replacement lever and how to change it?
Cheers, Luka |
@spyderjon, at https://www.thepisteoffice.com is your man; he'll know what's what.
..Nick
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| slakuter wrote: |
Hi,
On my shift 13 a plastic lever, which switch between ski and walk mode, broke. I've lost an invoice so its probably a no go with warranty replacement.
Does anybody know if it's possible to get a replacement lever and how to change it?
Cheers, Luka |
Re the pic of the broken binding you emailed me. Your bindings are still within the two year Atomic warranty period. I only sell the Salomon version so I'm unable to process the warranty claim for you. Any Atomic dealer can submit the claim for you but unfortunately you will the need proof of purchase.
The lever is factory fitted so you'll need a complete replacement toe to which you'll attached your existing AFD assembly.
If you can't get a local Atomic dealer to process the warranty claim for you then I do have some new single Salomon Shift 13 blue/black toe bindings available for purchase at a very reasonable price and shipping to Slovenia isn't a problem.
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Poster: A snowHead
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After a couple of days on my Legend 88's with Shifts this year noticed a bit of play in the binders. Haven't skied these boards since before covid and closer inspection revealed the heel plate screws had all loosened. Toe piece screws nice and tight. I am hard on bindings as Im a fat tall Fitzwilliam and have broke binders and torn out screws in the past but haven't had any problems with either pair of Shift equipped skis before.
I had previously skied these set up for alpine boots and I changed to using some new touring boots with a slightly shorter BSL and stupidly didn't adjust the toe pressure as just forgot as it has been a couple years. All tightened back up and reset correctly..
Just wondering if anyone else has seen any play in theirs, loose screws , or perhaps this is just a one off and caused by too much slop in the toe pressure setup ??
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Question, that could probably apply to all bindings.
The highest I've ever set my DIN is 10 for "you do not want to lose a ski" off piste scenarios. When I get my touring set up done, it'll be Salomon Shifts (or whatever variation is cheapest at the time). Would I be best going for the 13 DIN or will the 10's be fine?
All my other bindings are 13's and have never had them cranked to the max setting.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@skimottaret, not seen any play in mine and have swopped them around 2 pairs of skis 4 times I think now? Did you also check and adjust the toe height? Assuming the alpine boots had an alpine sole and the touring ones have a grip sole??
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| haigie wrote: |
Question, that could probably apply to all bindings.
The highest I've ever set my DIN is 10 for "you do not want to lose a ski" off piste scenarios. When I get my touring set up done, it'll be Salomon Shifts (or whatever variation is cheapest at the time). Would I be best going for the 13 DIN or will the 10's be fine?
All my other bindings are 13's and have never had them cranked to the max setting. |
I was always told one should aim for bindings where the max is around double the din setting for normal sking. Ie if 7 bindings should max out at 14. Aparently this is to avoid placing the release mechanism under undue pressure. It may just be old school thinking that is no longer applicable with modern tech. FWIW I am an 8 and my binding max at 12.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Dear All, I am still flirting with the idea of the Shift bindings to replace my heavy Atomic Tracker frame bindings, I find these pretty cumbersome to kick turn mounted on 188cm Salomon Rocker 2s. @spyderjon, (very kindly) recommended the Duke PT12s as I said I had broken Salomon STH2 bindings and another couple of other pairs too, I have ripped out bindings and cracked boots. I had read about serious pre-release issues and also read threads on here. I will be doing occasional touring/free-rando stuff (mainly off-piste) and also on-piste in the afternoons too, I can ski very quickly and sometimes I am skiing in exposed scenarios so I cannot think about pre-releasing. I am 6.3 and 95kg. How have people found the Shifts? Has anybody had any issues or concerns with pre-releases? Thank you for your thoughts and updates..
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@JayDub, the pre-release issues that get a lot of air/moan time on t'internet saree largely due to badly adjusted bindings. With the forward pressure and afd height set correctly, shifts are very reliable. But, for all that, they're still a hybrid binding and not as substantial as a full alpine binding. Not ask issue for someone my size (67 kg or so) but with your size and history, I'd either take @spyderjon's advice on the Duke PT, or go with the CAST system. Both are more substantial than the shift, with a corresponding weight and faff factor penalty.
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@skimottaret, I'm much smaller than you and not hard on bindings. Not seen any problems with screws loosening, and i swap my bindings to different skis at least a couple of times a season.
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Not had any problems with my Shifts and they’ve been in the snow park a fair bit so have been stomped down on a lot.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@mgrolf, thank you very much for your thoughts, I have had done a good bit of research and have read about the adjustment/set up problems. I have had a look at the Cast jobbies too. I should probably just go with Duke PT and get off here!
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| Ozboy wrote: |
| haigie wrote: |
Question, that could probably apply to all bindings.
The highest I've ever set my DIN is 10 for "you do not want to lose a ski" off piste scenarios. When I get my touring set up done, it'll be Salomon Shifts (or whatever variation is cheapest at the time). Would I be best going for the 13 DIN or will the 10's be fine?
All my other bindings are 13's and have never had them cranked to the max setting. |
I was always told one should aim for bindings where the max is around double the din setting for normal sking. Ie if 7 bindings should max out at 14. Aparently this is to avoid placing the release mechanism under undue pressure. It may just be old school thinking that is no longer applicable with modern tech. FWIW I am an 8 and my binding max at 12. |
Yep that jogged my memory a bit there and sounds like what I’ve heard before. Not a huge cost difference between the 10 and 13 DIN models to be fair.
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FAQ
(In powder it shouldn't make too much difference... 
