 Poster: A snowHead
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| Mark_NC wrote: |
Visit Dates: Be careful about when you visit. One year we booked when most of the European schools were on vacation (kind of like spring break) and the slopes and restaurants were crowded. I think that January is pretty good; a little less crowded than Feb or Mar, which are the peak months. We actually stayed the week before Christmas one year and it was great. Lots of Christmas decorations and Christmas markets, and the prices were a little cheaper. |
Here's a helpful chart of European School Holidays:
https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=167136
The critical section for Val Gardena are the Germans, so February into March, Fasching (Carnival) week being the busiest, which falls late in 2025 in the first week of March.
Middle weeks of January have few school holidays, so are OK, though the Sella Ronda is rarely without waits at certain busy points.
This Dutch chart shows overall expected ski numbers across Europe. Again January is lighter than most:
https://cdn.wintersport.nl/media/content/2024/02/08/Vakantiedrukte_wintersport_2024-2025.jpg
Germans are coloured yellow on the bars.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I've been in the Dolomites several times. Don't be obsessed with the Sella Ronda (SR). Of course, you can do it (but it is much more crowded than the rest) but you probably will do it once (or perhaps twice to test both directions). You can consider places a little bit far from the SR, but from where you can reach SR in a reasonable time. For example, San Cassiano (and many others). If you plan to rent a car, you can try other parts of Dolomiti Superski like Cortina and Kronplatz.
Venice has two close airports (Marco Polo and Treviso) which I think are the closest ones to the Dolomites.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| fragoral wrote: |
I've been in the Dolomites several times. Don't be obsessed with the Sella Ronda (SR). Of course, you can do it (but it is much more crowded than the rest) but you probably will do it once (or perhaps twice to test both directions). You can consider places a little bit far from the SR, but from where you can reach SR in a reasonable time. For example, San Cassiano (and many others). If you plan to rent a car, you can try other parts of Dolomiti Superski like Cortina and Kronplatz.
Venice has two close airports (Marco Polo and Treviso) which I think are the closest ones to the Dolomites. |
Some sound advice there!
Strictly speaking, the closest airport is the small regional one on the edge of Bolzano, served by SkyAlps. It's definitely a premium offering and only offers limited short haul routes...to London, Antwerp and a few German cities.
https://www.skyalps.com/en/
After that, Innsbruck & Verona are usually best for the S Tyrol and Trentino resorts respectively using the A22 corridor and Venice & Treviso for the resorts in the Veneto region using the A27.
Further afield you have the Milan options...Bergamo, Linate & Malpensa in that order of proximity.
Munich is a good international hub, though roadworks on the Brenner may exclude it & Innsbruck for a while.
There might be some leftfield options such a Bologna or Trieste, if lower prices and better timings make the extra transfer time seem worth it.
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The Sella Ronda is better viewed as a highway to get places, as opposed to something that you do. Especially if you are going to be there for a week. The best skiing there (and there is a lot of it) is not on the Sella Ronda route itself. If you do it right, on at least one of the days you will essentially wind up doing it, because if, for example, you are staying in Selva, and want to ski some of Arabba, you just take the opposite color back and you will have done it.
Val Gardena, for example, which is where Selva is, takes about 3 days to fully explore. The Seceda/Col Reiser area is amazing, but completely off of the Sella Ronda. And in Corvara there is a lot that is great, like up the Boe gondola and then up Vallon chair.
The best ski advice I can give someone doing the Dolomiti area is to ski as little as possible on the Sella Ronda, not the other way around.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@wjrlaw, agreed and I would never 'do' the Sella Ronda just for the sake of it now. But it has to be done once, I think, and your idea of using the excuse of a trip to Arabba is a good one.
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To be slightly contrary, I think quite a few of the Sella Ronda runs are excellent runs and very enjoyable.
The problem is that the amount of traffic on them can make them less enjoyable and far less good to ski as the day progresses and the surface deteriorates.
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| T Bar wrote: |
To be slightly contrary, I think quite a few of the Sella Ronda runs are excellent runs and very enjoyable.
The problem is that the amount of traffic on them can make them less enjoyable and far less good to ski as the day progresses and the surface deteriorates. |
Your second sentence is baked into my analysis as to why everything else is better. Same conclusion, basically.
As to deterioration, it's easy to underestimate how much longer it takes to loop back in the afternoon to get home when the route gets bumped up. Especially if there has been fresh snowfall. This needs to be factored in, or you will be paying for a cab at 4 pm
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| wjrlaw wrote: |
The Sella Ronda is better viewed as a highway to get places, as opposed to something that you do. Especially if you are going to be there for a week. The best skiing there (and there is a lot of it) is not on the Sella Ronda route itself. If you do it right, on at least one of the days you will essentially wind up doing it, because if, for example, you are staying in Selva, and want to ski some of Arabba, you just take the opposite color back and you will have done it.
Val Gardena, for example, which is where Selva is, takes about 3 days to fully explore. The Seceda/Col Reiser area is amazing, but completely off of the Sella Ronda. And in Corvara there is a lot that is great, like up the Boe gondola and then up Vallon chair.
The best ski advice I can give someone doing the Dolomiti area is to ski as little as possible on the Sella Ronda, not the other way around. |
I agree. You've got to get the skates on sharp, get on the ronda, get off the ronda. Do your skiing and lunch etc. Then get back on the ronda a smidgeon before the post lunch nonsense begins. Then stop for drinks within sight of you last lift back to your valley. Then take the lift and stop again for drinks before skiing down for drinks.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I enjoyed the Ronda, particularly the runs down to Arabba, wasn't busy when I did it though. Do agree that it's best as a means to and end though e.g. we did branch off and explore the Arabba area before jumping back on.
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Agree with @Owls101, the circuits can be a nice morning ski.
A lot is down to timing to avoid the bottlenecks which is down to knowledge and a bit of luck. Things seem to vary day to day.
I am a fan of being on first lifts and a late lunch.
Fresh snow and later in the afternoon and things become a bump fest. 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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My advice re: the Sella Ronda is to get out there as early as possible. In January, it will be pretty dark at 8 am and many vacationers will still be in bed. Hit the slopes early and beat the crowds. That will also give you more time after lunch to stop along the way for beers or an Aperol Spritz. We didn't start one day until about 2 pm, and we almost didn't make it back to Selva. The last lift back to Selva had just closed when we arrived and I sweet-talked the lift attendant into letting us on. I don't know what we would have done if we didn't get on that lift.
Also, when you are on the Sella Ronda, and you're on a slope that's starting to level out, keep up your speed! There are several places where the slopes are almost flat, and you'll be pushing with your poles like a cross-country skier. I had to keep telling my daughters to keep up their speed to avoid getting stuck on the flats.
And I definitely agree that you've got to do the Sella Ronda once, just to be able to brag that you've done it. 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@MikePiter, outdoor hot tubs are a rarity in the Dolomites I think. Maybe larger upmarket hotels might invest in them?
By contrast, indoor saunas, steam rooms, jacuzzi and the like are much more common. Mid range hotels and even many modest Garni have some of these facilities. Don’t know about apartment blocks, individual research needed.
Why soak outdoors in human soup in chilly January, except around midday, when you should really be skiing or thinking about lunch? Much nicer a toasty indoor spa early evening, where you often get an unexpected eyeful of sausages and germknodels on display, usually of the German or Dutch variety. 
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@Mark_NC, great advice again, you’ve definitely passed the audition.
The other benefit of getting out early to do the SR circuit is that there’s time to enjoy one of the many offshoots, or else repeat a piste or two that were particularly enjoyed.
Plenty advice from:sH:s nearer the time on offshoots, lunch stops, hot choc breaks, best views.
Opinions differ on orange or green way around SR. My preference is Orange, bit more skiing, bit less lift riding.
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You know it makes sense.
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I've skiied both sella ronda loops twice. Fantastic. Stayed in Vigo di Fassa the first time and some nice skiing around there also. Stayed in Cavalese the second time and also nice local skiing there on Alpe Cermis. Some of the local passes gave an option to add 1 day sella ronda. Flew into Treviso the first time and bussed to Val di Fassa and flew into Bergamo the second time and drove to Cavalese. Great scenery, food and skiing
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Its funny and telling how when you are skiing the Dolomites you can always tell the Sella Ronda pistes from afar because of the hordes of ants moving across them. That said, its a great day out for people and a great chance to see and get exposed to the broader area with easy to follow signage. Most skiers would be worried about how to navigate the broader area and afraid they'd miss a turn or get stuck away from their accommodation. I actually think the best way to ski it would be with at least one overnight in a refugio on the way, allowing plenty of time to explore the adjacent valleys.
While people are talking about it, I assume waking up in the Lagazuoi refugio, skiing down and doing the Sella Ronda anti clockwise to Arabba and then skiing over to Malga Ciapela would be easily doable in a day for a group of fast skiers, first weekend after the Jan school holidays end (which from experience at same time last year, was quiet and had zero lift queues)? Have it planned for last day of a self guided ski safari and am pretty sure it will be (easily) doable, but a flight is waiting for us at the far side
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Poster: A snowHead
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@8611, I was in Canazei on the 18th of Jan this year and the Ronda was heaving - no idea why (busiest I have seen it)
As I mentioned in another thread, my only worry for your group would be the lift up to Padon being closed due to winds. Having said that ; it is being replaced for next season, so that might not be a problem..
If it was though, you could always bail out in Arabba and get the taxi to Alleghe. Several SnowHeads do this journey in reverse following the Pre BB in Alleghe
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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You did thanks albob. Google tells me thats only 30 minutes by car - would that pass be open in Jan though? Seems to be over Salesei and the google pictures suggest its not that high (there's snow elsewhere).
My window 9-12th Jan, was there that time this year and very quiet.
As an aside, where do the Dolomites get their unusual names - neither Italian nor Germanic sounding. Canazei, Salesei, Lasties, Siusi, Arabba. Are they Ladin?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Other pieces of advice for the dolomites.
A taxi from Arabba to Colfosco was 40-45 euros for two of us with skis and about 15-20 minutes but the taxis can typically fit 6 and have ski racks on their back doors, I don’t think they charge more for more people. Think mini-van.
Bombardinos are great. Stick to one, otherwise your skiing may become erratic 
Strudel and hot chocolate are fantastic pretty much everywhere. Unlike the USA and Canada eating on the mountain slopes is normally a fantastic culinary experience.
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Grappa also. The good places have like 60 varieties. I used to think it was just jumped up moonshine produced for free with the bill but it can actually be really nice.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| 8611 wrote: |
You did thanks albob. Google tells me thats only 30 minutes by car - would that pass be open in Jan though? Seems to be over Salesei and the google pictures suggest its not that high (there's snow elsewhere). Not sure -- you could ask in the Pre BB thread
My window 9-12th Jan, was there that time this year and very quiet.
As an aside, where do the Dolomites get their unusual names - neither Italian nor Germanic sounding. Canazei, Salesei, Lasties, Siusi, Arabba. Are they Ladin?-- I suspect so |
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@8611, yes you can ski that route easily in a day, don't need to be a fast skier unless you're planning a long lunch
and
yes the passes are normally open but obviously depends on recent snowfall. Coaches use all four passes around the SR for day trippers
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train to Bolzano, hit a hotel to sleep off jet lag. Go to the iceman museum, rent a car in Bolzano, go to the Dolomites for the bulk of your trip. Drive back to Bolzano, drop off your car, back to Milan airport via train to your flight home (or train to Milan for one or more nights if your flight is too early to allow the train from Bolzano to catch the flight).
One thing we Americans have to overcome when planning travel in Europe is the default to rent the car at the airport because those comprise most of the rental car locations in the US. In Europe, rental car locations are much more widely scattered, including in smaller cities (frequently near train stations) and in downtown locations of many larger cities.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| mr. mike wrote: |
train to Bolzano, hit a hotel to sleep off jet lag. Go to the iceman museum, rent a car in Bolzano, go to the Dolomites for the bulk of your trip. Drive back to Bolzano, drop off your car, back to Milan airport via train to your flight home (or train to Milan for one or more nights if your flight is too early to allow the train from Bolzano to catch the flight).
One thing we Americans have to overcome when planning travel in Europe is the default to rent the car at the airport because those comprise most of the rental car locations in the US. In Europe, rental car locations are much more widely scattered, including in smaller cities (frequently near train stations) and in downtown locations of many larger cities. |
Interesting thought. We have settled on Selva and will be flying in/flying out of Milano Malpensa, based on the input provided earlier. I was initially thinking to rent the car right there. What was your rationale to rent the car in Bolzano instead?
We're flying in a day earlier, so we'd be staying somewhere on the way to our ski hotel and I also got 2 nights to fill after our stay in Selva (we're checking out on Saturday morning and our plane back to States is on Monday mid-day). I wanted to spend some extra time besides skiing, not only for the purposes of breaking the 4 hr drive to/from the airport, although this would become useful on the way to Selva.
There were a few places that were mentioned earlier on this thread to use a stop by points on our way to/from Selva, i.e. Bolzano, Trento, Limone in Lake Garda, Bergamo. How about Milan itself on the way back, is it worth spending a day or two there or something there is a must see? We're not too crazy into museums/ anything of religious variety. Some great scenery, architecture, nature should draw our attention though. Is brand names bargain shopping in Milan a thing (this may not be an appropriate question for this community )?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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FYI, A train to Bolzano from Malpensa involves two changes, (Milan & Verona) and takes 4-5hrs. Also Bolzano will have limited rental options so will likely be quite expensive especially if you pick-up there and drop back at the airport, though cost obviously may not be an issue.
Last week we rented a car in Rome and even though we had to make our way to the airport we ended up doing the rental from the there because it was so much cheaper than from the city centre, IIRC it was less than half the price.
So just rent a car from the airport and drive somewhere not too far as suggested above.
@MikePiter, Milan has plenty to keep you busy for a day or two but probably best to drop your car (and some luggage) off at the airport and get the train in, driving in central Milan is not for the faint hearted and you won't need the car. Narrow streets, triple parking, no apparent rules of the road! The centre has some nice areas to walk around, good Cathedral in the centre, some museums, lots of shopping including brands you won't of heard of. Also if shopping you probably know that for many items you can claim the VAT back at the airport (20%).
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You know it makes sense.
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| 8611 wrote: |
You did thanks albob. Google tells me thats only 30 minutes by car - would that pass be open in Jan though? Seems to be over Salesei and the google pictures suggest its not that high (there's snow elsewhere).
My window 9-12th Jan, was there that time this year and very quiet.
As an aside, where do the Dolomites get their unusual names - neither Italian nor Germanic sounding. Canazei, Salesei, Lasties, Siusi, Arabba. Are they Ladin? |
There's no pass between Arabba & Alleghe, Salesei is on the way down and it's pretty much downhill all the way! Though it is a tortuously winding road with some hairpin sections as you drop into Caprile. It should be kept open as its the main way in and out of Arabba, but during the notorious 'Snowmageddon' episode it was closed for quite a few days and Arabba was cut off.
Yes, a lot of the place names in the Dolomites (and Eastern Alps in general) have a Ladin (or Rhaeto-Romanic) origin, though those you mention are the Italianised versions, thank Mussolini!
I believe Canazei is Cianacei in Ladin and means something about where reeds grow and Arabba is Reba.
Even the name of the famous Valluga peak in St Anton has Rhaeto-Romanic origin. Evidently, Rhaeto-Romance dialects were spoken in many areas of the Alps until the Middle Ages when German-speakers gradually moved in from the North and supplanted the local speech, but some older place names lived on.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@luigi, interesting. There's a whole world in italy the average west european is unaware of. Similar in Monte Rosa resorts with a different language / culture / atmosphere in each one.
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Poster: A snowHead
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My rationale on not renting the car right at the airport is that I generally prefer not to drive in a foreign country right after stepping off an overnight flight. Much easier to jump on a train and not worry about navigation etc. especially if flying into malenesa which, unlike Linate, has a train station right in the airport.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Makes sense @mr. mike, it's just a two and half hour flight for most of us. Main problem is staying sober.
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