 Poster: A snowHead
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If you have to use a squat loo, ski boots are probably perfect. Less likely to let your trousers fall right down, and moderately impregnable to pee. Not good if you wear salopettes with braces - but who does that, these days?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@KNoceros, @Chuckles3, thank you kindly for your bog knowledge!  These things matter - especially ones where you don't have to go downstairs!
@skanky, wow, what a beautiful run. Will mark that as a must do. Am hoping to have some lessons soon so will ask about any off-piste routes that might be suitable, and the VB. Thank you!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@pam w,  But they are slippery and unbalanced! There was something slightly in the 'mild peril' category about the whole thing.
I nearly bought one of those all in one ski suits a couple of years ago, now that would have been a nightmare...
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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An update to muse on what it's like to live and work in the mountains (so far) and the dangers of buying skis after one test...
Having had the day off on Monday, on Tuesday and Thursday of this week we did the 'early stint' pre-work ski, whilst on Wednesday we both had morning meetings so went for the last couple of hours of the day instead. Totally different experiences. I'm not really a routine person, but spending an hour or so skiing every morning is a routine I can live with! The first gondola from Aosta is at 8am, so alarms at 7ish (snoozed at least once), cup of instant and chuck on gear, mooch around trying to remember what we've forgotten, leave at 7.50. Tens mins to the lift station, where we have hired a season locker (225 euro, but worth every penny), ten mins to swear at our boots, and on the lift at 8.10. This gets to the top just as the next lift up (Pila Gorraz) opens, so onto that and note that a) Leisse hasn't quite opened and b) it's swamped by the racing teams up for training, and their kit! Or the army, as today. So pop back down the blue for a warm up, and the next time you get to Leisse - everyone has magically disappeared and the lift is running!  The morning runs for us seem to have settled into those off Lisse and Nuova, and at that time the corduroy is undisturbed. We particularly enjoyed 9 and 7 today. Lap until heading for the 10am lift down, and be back by 10.30/9.30UK work time more or less... Gorgeous!!
The weather has been all blue skies and smooth sailing except Monday's winds, and for our morning jaunts that is just perfect, the rising sun over the mountains etc etc... but in the afternoon, less fun. On Wednesday is was apparently 13 degrees up the hill, full sun and slush except where it's never sunny and therefore solid, and generally just boiling on every lift and piste (it felt like). Add to that my all black ski kit  that is maybe just a tadge tight after too many pies and, well. I topped the day off by falling over quite hard on a blue run, just caught a bit of slush and went flying, banging my head. And then trod in dog poo outside the bar getting a drink to make myself feel better. 
The fall is annoying as I'm not the most confident, and compounded by the fact we did indeed buy skis on Tuesday, after testing them on the hard as nails pistes of Tuesday morning. I felt good on my sale price S/Max W8s then, but I suspect I may have to learn how to ski them a little better in varying conditions. I knew I should have bought the Menaces and just slid around for the next few weeks. Oh well - some lessons will help, and god knows I need them anyway!
Aosta is really, really nice - loads going on, including the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition over from London which is lucky! Plenty bars that we haven't sampled yet, but I can recommend so far the pizza at Osteria dell'Oca (unfortunately - it's literally below our apartment!) and 'pochetta' at A Petit - hollowed out ciabatta stuffed with such things as meatballs or aubergine parmigiana - seriously tasty little arancini as well.
Vague plan this weekend is now to test the buses and go to La Thuile on Saturday and Champoluc on Sunday (or otherwise depending on snow/weather). Tomorrow is an afternoon ski day up at pila, and maybe a little apres to celebrate our first week. 
Edited to add - have now added all the recommendations off here onto our paper piste maps (free from the tourist office in Aosta) so looking forward to checking them out!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@Bergmeister, thanks! No regrets so far! Worth any hassle for afternoons like today - soft snow and the sun came out, much hooning about and whooping.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Really enjoying this thread - thanks ElzP. Have a great time and don’t forget the photos for us!
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@ElzP Yet another East Sussex skier here. I’ve not long returned from 4 nighter in Courmayeur. The snow is fine on the pistes, slopes were a bit up and down busy wise, but fairly easy to manage. Me and matey had a great time, although we’d skied mostly everything by day 2. It was not a hardship going over old ground, the pistes are in terrific condition.
Mountain restaurants were good, best over the Val Veny side, La Zerotta being the top for me. Remember to book, at least a day ahead for La Chaumiere.
The town is lovely, the Bar Les Guides felt like the sort of pub I’ve always craved. Brilliant service during the rugby, free pizza/limoncellos throughout. Easily the largest pizza I’ve ever known (parts of it were in different postcodes), to be had at Pizzeria Du Tunnel.
Have fun.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@Blanch1962, thanks for the recommendations!
We spend Saturday in Courmayeur in the end. We had planned a day trip on the bus, but it'd been a long week so we didn't get the bus til 8.45. Easy to manage - we bought tickets on the arriva mypay app prior to the journey, though it's a bit of a faff having to choose which fare you need from the website first (from Aosta to Courmayeur is fare I, FYI) - the bus was punctual, the journey interesting (castle spotting is should be a sport in this valley), and he stop for the lift obvious. First blip in the day was the lack of lockers available at the bottom of the 'Armani' lift where the bus stops. It was extremely busy and the hire shop there had none left, none at the lift. None at the top of the lift either (or even the open stash rack you get at some lifts which would have been fine for our shoes!), and the hire shop there was complete CHAOS. We queued for 20 mins to be told... no lockers. So we gave up and shoved our shoes on top of the lockers in their locker room anyway - sorry guys. By this time we were both super flustered, and decided not to walk all the way across the village to the main lifts up the middle bowl as it looked packed with people, but went straight off on to run 6 over to the Dzeleua lift over to Val Veny. By this time it as 11am. Our mild irritation was giving way to stressy inability to ski for me, so run 2 down was not much fun, there were a lot of people on it going in a straight line which freaked me out some more. It having been a long time since breakfast, we stopped off at Rifugio Monte Bianco for a coffee and pastry, best bit was the lovely Bernese mountain dog! View wasn't bad either...
The stress wasn't subsiding (you know when you get in your head...) so we decided to head straight for lunch, at La Zerotta (thanks!) which was lovely, great venison pasta. Over lunch, a reality check was had, and we decided to head back over to the main bowl to see if the wide, open runs would feel better than the tree lined routes. We headed to the Checrouit gondola, and found, ta da, the resort run lockers at the lift. Grr. From the top of Checrouit lots of staight wide reds lead down to the resort again. It was the right choice, out in the sunshine, but there were a ton of people, and after skiing really badly all morning, everything hurt, so we called it - better to stop and walk away unharmed than push it when it's just not happening for whatever reason. We had thought we'd have a drink on the way but clearly tolerance levels were low and the music was a turn off from the bars. Oh dear.
The bus goes from a different place on the return, so we went down the Dolonne gondola (the gondolas are painted gold, of course they are) and hoiked our skis ten minutes walk to the bus station. Bus again was easy, punctual and decent.
Not the best of days then, but a few pluses. Courmayeur is really very beautiful, Monte Bianco sitting in view is a stunner, although depending on your mood it might look like a massive, malignant force of nature waiting to crush you... the air was clear and cold and the sun was bright, the food sampled was good and hey, we were out and about. However, that slog across from the top of the town lifts through the resort to get to the other lifts feels like bad planning. A moving walkway could be good! I realise it's nice for people to see and be seen, but it's not for me. The runs felt quite difficult in various ways - but that was probably half mood and half conditions; snow conditions were not brilliant, unsurprisingly, and it was very hard and icy in places. We may have been spoiled by Pila! In general, there was just something slightly annoying about the whole place!  I think we'll go back by car (loads of parking left at Dolonne on what was a very busy day) on a week day when there will be fewer people to be intolerant at. And next time I'll actually ski it rather than sliding around scowling at it. I think I spent a fair amount of time thinking fond thoughts of Austria, not sure why...
Another factor - we were knackered. We've been combining skiing and working, and I don't think we'd appreciated how that would tire us out, especially as we're not very fit and haven't been this active for ages. Saturday night we basically slept 12 hours (after a delicious sushi meal at Zenzoro in Aosta and a drink at the Crazy Fox, a slightly odd but cool bar, we deserved it)! This sorted us for a lovely afternoon in Pila today (Sunday), for more sunshine, more chilled out runs, a burger at the Restaurant Chamole (decent if a bit dirty) and bombardino at La Maison De Jean opposite Leisses. Nice, quiet afternoon in a now familiar place to regain some sorely needed confidence.
Anyway, I did say Courmayeur was beautiful, and it really is.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Thanks for another great report, even when it didn't go so well. I hope next time you go back Courmayeur will be a bit quieter and more appealing.
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Glad its working out fine. one you get some wheels, defo get yourself over to Champoluc / Monterosa on a clear day. That was defo the highlight of the week for me, if you think Courmayeur was beautiful.....
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You know it makes sense.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| t44tomo wrote: |
| Glad its working out fine. one you get some wheels, defo get yourself over to Champoluc / Monterosa on a clear day. That was defo the highlight of the week for me, if you think Courmayeur was beautiful..... |
Agree - Monte Rosa is a different level......... feels soooo out in the wilds!
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Poster: A snowHead
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@ElzP, are you going to try La Thuile again or is that off the radar now?
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Gaz_H, we'll either do it when we have the car that week or hire a car for another couple o f days and go - but we definitely want to try it! We've had some good tips on here as well for La Thuile so would be rude not to.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@ElzP, hope it goes well.
Out of interest, would you say snow coverage on the pistes has been holding up well since you arrived, or has there been a slow deterioration?
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@denfinella, snow coverage on the pistes in Pila is holding up really well, though there are some brown patches at resort level and a bit slushy late afternoon. It has snowed a couple of times this week up higher and it's nice and grippy. Deterioration only at resort level since we arrived - it's got better up top!
When we were in Courmayeur, the pistes were well covered but icy. Direction of the pistes i think!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Should add, the piste prep in Pila is some of the best I've seen!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@ElzP, when you go back to Courmayuer, park in Dolonne open air carpark, it’s free, and take the gondola up, to avoid the walk across Plan Checruit, take Pra Neyron Chair, then traverse across to Aretu then drop down to Gabba, from the top of Gabba turn right, and do a few laps on that run, it’s usually the quietest, and also lap up and down the runs to Aretu. Eat at Chez Olier which is under the Pra Neyron lift.
I’m hoping to get out for a week in March, will probably stayin Aosta, how busy is the gondola up to Pila, I’d like to avoid being in it with other where possible.
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Loving your trip report @ElzP.
Please do make the effort to get to La Thuile as I'm sure you'll love it. On Courmayeur it didn't do it for me either although the town itself was enjoyable.
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| geoffknight wrote: |
@ElzP, when you go back to Courmayuer, park in Dolonne open air carpark, it’s free, and take the gondola up, to avoid the walk across Plan Checruit, take Pra Neyron Chair, then traverse across to Aretu then drop down to Gabba, from the top of Gabba turn right, and do a few laps on that run, it’s usually the quietest, and also lap up and down the runs to Aretu. Eat at Chez Olier which is under the Pra Neyron lift.
I’m hoping to get out for a week in March, will probably stayin Aosta, how busy is the gondola up to Pila, I’d like to avoid being in it with other where possible. |
Thank you, that sounds like a plan!
We have sat on the aosta/pila gondola nearly every day for two weeks, and have only shared once, last Sunday. Might be different during half term (next week?) It's been empty except for around 4-5, when i think lessons kick out and people are heading home, including the ski racers who seem to be there every day. Even then, mostly no sharing.
Only once in a queue at the bottom, and that was a weekend - max 5 minutes. Still didn't share. Beginning to think we're intimidating. 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@ElzP, Some of the racers will be British, from here. There are local clubs too.
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@rjs, yup! They are amazing to watch, fearless! Was very surprised to come across the Brit racers.
Our first experience of them was in a ski shop though, with one lad loudly demanding 'atomic 165' from his dad, who had a resigned look and a credit card out.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Oops.
Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Fri 18-02-22 11:55; edited 1 time in total
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Quick update on the snow conditions... yesterday we didn't ski but it was very warm with a fohn wind. 8.30am this morning it was 6 degrees at the bottom of Chamole. The pistes are a bit scuppered below about the half way points, lots of brown patches and chattery lumps of ice. Further up, still nice to ski. It's absolutely fecking boiling today, t-shirt weather in town. 
Hopefully a bit of snow on Monday will freshen things up, but it's not looking great for the weekend!
Up high was the way to go this morning, and we had a gorgeous run off Couis 2!
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We arrive tomorrow and ski from Sunday. From what you’ve said about pila I’m thinking we might do crevacol as it’s high, for Sunday to find our legs and see if the anticipated Monday show arrives to give more options.
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You know it makes sense.
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@MHskier, Crevacol is south facing and I think quite a lot of the runs are closed. Something to bear in mind...
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@MHskier, we're about to ski Cogne tomorrow (Saturday) so will let you know how that is - north facing slopes. Pila is also mostly north facing so may not be a huge difference. Anything facing south that isn't very high may be brown town.
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Poster: A snowHead
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| Quote: |
I realise it's nice for people to see and be seen, but it's not for me.
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"Fare la bella figura" I think it's called - very Italian. Fantastic, inspirational, report - but I think if it were me, I'd have more time off, just lolling around. And sleep in a bit later in the mornings sometimes. Still, I'm old.....
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@ElzP thanks for info re crevacol. Had not considered we may have to worry about slope direction at a high resort in feb! A bit shocking and sad.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@MHskier, hope your journey is going smoothly! My advice having skied in Cogne today would be stay in Pila and stick to the Nouva, Leisse and Couis lifts. Suspect the snow making and piste prep will make for the better conditions in the bigger area.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Our weekend in Cogne very nice so far. Cogne is a village at 1800 and very picturesque, lovely old buildings and a bustling little centre. It's known for its cross country skiing, and also has some alpine pistes served by a three car egg box arrangement, and two two man chairs. There's also a cute little beginner slope and play/tubing/sledding area in the village.
The bus from Aosta station to Cogne is 50 minutes on good if windy, mainly a lane each way road. We treated ourselves to a 'weekend special' at the Miramonti, with half board, massage, spa, a drink thrown in. Free garage if needed as well. The Ceour de Bois restaurant at the hotel is good, and dinner includes 2 a la carte courses, salad bar, pudding bar (Creme de Cogne recommended!), and cheese bar. Wine extra - we had a great bottle of Torette Superiore, and a couple of cocktails after. Breakfast decent but we couldn't face much, though the waiter was begging us to accept omelettes or scrambled eggs.  Good coffee though!
We booked ourselves a cross country skiing lesson for Saturday morning, 2 hours private for 2 people was £80. We dropped into Gal Sport before dinner on Fri night to get kit - boots, skis and poles, 33 quid. It was lots of fun, and knackering, taught by the delightful Lorenzo who made everything easy to understand. The cross country tracks in the village are set out across a huge meadow, and thought they clearly couldn't keep them all open, the ones there were in perfect knick between the grass! We are told that many Aosta CC areas haven't been able to keep much open, so Cogne is busy with local skiers. Still plenty of space for us to tumble without being run over.
After really good pizzas and a drink at Bar Licone in the village centre, we did a quick change and headed for the gondola for a spot of alpine. The gondola is slightly out of the village centre, up hill - walkable, but there's a free ski bus which seems to run every 20 minutes at peak times, and only a bit less frequently between. There's no parking by the lift. There are ski lockers, and we left our shoes in the room without a locker.
I counted ten people anywhere on the hill, including people sat outside the two bars we passed, but not including lifties! Dead quiet. From the top of the gondola, we headed on 1b over to chair 2, passing the top of black 1 which we decided we didn't fancy. Onto chair 2, which seems to go on forever! Only red 3 is open off here; snow ok at the top, but icy sections on the narrower bits and off the turns. It's pretty steep and twisty all the way down really, plenty of netting, from 3 onto red 1b and onto blue 5 - snow conditions may have made it seem more so, and the massive pizza may not have helped... towards the bottom, a nice mix of icy, lumpy, corny... this place needs snow! I reckon the runs here with decent snow would be fast fun, and it's lovely to be skiing through the pine forest. In these conditions, not so much. We did one top to bottom and sacked it off for the day. Another place to revisit if conditions improve.
Coming down red 3 - probably the best section for snow quality.
Brown town at the base if the gondola...
Luckily our hotel room balcony overlooks the cross country race, and there's a spa calling, so all is not lost. We've decided not to ski tomorrow - we'll be leisurely, have massages, explore and have an enormous lunch at Bar a Fromage. @pam w, I'm reading and taking note. Some time to relax is required.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Sounds like you had a good day despite less than ideal snow conditions. I couldn't quite work it out from the description - did you go all the way up to the top?
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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@denfinella, yes - from the bottom there's a short chair serving the blue, or the gondola. Off the top of the gondola you ski slightly down/across, and come to the bottom of the chair up to the top - lift 2. From the top, only run 3 is open, 4 is shut.
We had a cracking time doing other things so worth the trip. Can recommend the Bar a Fromage, bit pricey but i won't need to eat again today. Cogne's a very pleasant place for a break, skiing or no skiing. It must be wonderful in summer as well.
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@ElzP, I'm enjoying your trip report. We're planning a month in the alps next season. Probably not Aosta but some of your tips and experiences are proving very useful, thanks.
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Very lovely reading these reports! You're living my new dream. I have it on my bucket list to spend at least a month somewhere over the winter, even if I'm in my 60s and retired it shall happen!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@LOTA, @Pastorius, thanks! I recommend it - we're already plotting where to do similar next year.
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Piggy backing onto this threat but we were planning either monte Rosa or cervinia tomorrow but it’s looking like 50-60 mph winds so we’re going to head for courmayeur which looks calmer.
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FAQ
