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St Gervais or La Clusaz in December

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
EdYarker wrote:
Thanks @Jonny996, I haven't given up on St G just yet!
@Jonny996, I am looking at Swiss options. Yes, more expensive but for two days, might be swallow-able. I need to go and do research, rather than blurting out all the questions as they come to me (I have just been looking at the option of train to stay in Le Chable to ski Verbier or even trying Leysin). Maybe I will start a new thread once I have narrowed down some options. Thanks again.


That’s not a bad option. Gives you easy access to the tree skiing in Bruson in case of bad weather or head straight up to Verbier if it’s clear, or you need the extra altitude. Check out Una Lodge in Le Chable. What’s your accommodation budget?
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Megeve?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Jameswp, I thought Megeve was quite low and part of the same range as St Gervais? Fairly pricey as well but otherwise, I would be happy to go.
@BobinCH, funnily enough, I have just been looking at Una Lodge. Looks excellent, slightly more than I was hoping to pay in France (under £200 BB for 2 nights) and I was hoping that there might be some DBB options in Switzerland to save Dinner costs, but the only ones I could find were in Leysin, which I would consider but the lure of Verbier skiing is more appealing. The benefit of Le Chable, is that the train is likely to save a bit of cash over car hire or transfers. Una Lodge also appear to offer discounts on lift pass and ski hire. I also read that Bruson does a special daily rate for Thursdays off season, so it may not work out too bad, so long as we don't indulge in a 3 course meal on the main slopes in Verbier!
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EdYarker wrote:
@Jameswp, I thought Megeve was quite low and part of the same range as St Gervais? Fairly pricey as well but otherwise, I would be happy to go.
@BobinCH, funnily enough, I have just been looking at Una Lodge. Looks excellent, slightly more than I was hoping to pay in France (under £200 BB for 2 nights) and I was hoping that there might be some DBB options in Switzerland to save Dinner costs, but the only ones I could find were in Leysin, which I would consider but the lure of Verbier skiing is more appealing. The benefit of Le Chable, is that the train is likely to save a bit of cash over car hire or transfers. Una Lodge also appear to offer discounts on lift pass and ski hire. I also read that Bruson does a special daily rate for Thursdays off season, so it may not work out too bad, so long as we don't indulge in a 3 course meal on the main slopes in Verbier!


It has a good reputation but books up quickly! If you decide to leave it last minute send me a pm and I may be able to help you out
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@EdYarker, very good place in Megeve. Usually busy with full week bookings plus long weekends lower season.

May be flexible enough that week to accommodate a 2 nighter. If dinner available there it’s consistently excellent. Of all decent sized French resorts, I think Megeve ticks your ‘alpine charm’ box best. Best leave credit cards locked in hotel safe if strolling around window shopping though. Smile
Personally I wouldn’t book in advance but would wait to see what snow conditions and lift operating is like in mid December.

PM me if you want more information.
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EdYarker wrote:
I thought Megeve was quite low and part of the same range as St Gervais? Fairly pricey as well ...

Correct.

Great for people watching though, fur coats aplenty. But no reason to rule it out for a short trip.
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You'd be lucky to have good snow and loads open in Megeve in mid-December. And even the mink coats will be in short supply that early.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
So I came in wanting La Clusaz or St Gervais and have been sold Verbier and Megeve. Classic Snowheads upgrade Very Happy
Seriously, I greatly appreciate all the advice. I will buy the flights and either go ahead with Le Chable or hold tight and wait until early December, in which case you may hear from me again.
@BobinCH, @PeakyB, thanks for your offers. I will give you a shout if I’m doing the waiting strategy.
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@EdYarker, I think if you have flights booked, in mid December there’s no good reason for booking accommodation in advance, that I can think of. The snow is the constraint. Accommodation will be plentiful and a bargain, even in Verbier and Megeve.
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EdYarker wrote:
So I came in wanting La Clusaz or St Gervais and have been sold Verbier and Megeve. Classic Snowheads upgrade Very Happy

That's what happens! If the snow is right, I think St G is nicer anyway, Megeve always seems stuffy with its flaunting of wealth.

Book your flight and go back to your shortlist in November when weather patterns are clearer.
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@EdYarker, for snow sureness, Megeve is no upgrade. ... not sure it's an upgrade in any regard really, unless your wallet is bulging and you have an intention to spend.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@EdYarker, and another thing ...

You should have absolutely no trouble booking accommodation, so I would not do that until the very last minute.

You also need to bear in mind that many bars/restaurants/spas close inter-season - Chamonix is one of the "better" resorts in that there's always a few places open, even in late November, but it's a town not a ski resort. And even here there are quite a few that won't open until, say, Dec 15th.

And don't believe a word the Tourist Office says on that. 1. They're working too hard (or should be) to be spending any time in bars and restaurants and 2. They have a vested interest ... Twisted Evil
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Les Carroz in the Grand Massif opens on 18th December this year. As the schools break up on 16th December we will be arriving that weekend with everything crossed for snow. More often than not we are lucky and ski Christmas, some years it is fantastic a few others not so good. No way of knowing till just before you get there. How about just going for Flaine or Avoriaz? We use Go Massif when we need a transfer, always been reliable.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
My experience of Megeve was a one day excursion when the Chamonix valley was closed down by weather.
It was somewhere other than the usual St Gervais excursion which we usually end up with.
I had always associated Megeve as high end, but not really what I saw (and yes, I have been to Verbier), suggestion was more as it felt to be slightly higher than St Gervais, for the same ski area.
I like St Gervais, and fancy it for a family ski/drive holiday; only downside is everytime I`ve ended up in the Grand Massif area, either the snow cover is patchy and slushy, or epic, and the weather is "extreme" (especially in Chamonix Valley).

Considering I used to go to Val d`isere for my birthday in mid December (it used to coincide with the premier neige usually), global warming is marching on if December is now so readily written off.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Quote:

now so readily written off

Nobody has "written off" December, just warned about the possibility that snow might well be poor in lower resorts and that many of the smaller ones will not be open, or not fully open, in mid-December. The responses to the OP have been helpful and well informed. St Gervais is not in the Grand Massif.
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pam w wrote:
Quote:

now so readily written off

Nobody has "written off" December, just warned about the possibility that snow might well be poor in lower resorts and that many of the smaller ones will not be open, or not fully open, in mid-December. The responses to the OP have been helpful and well informed. St Gervais is not in the Grand Massif.


Maybe I should have said vicinity rather than area...

Anywhere too close to Flaine makes me cringe.

As I said, I like St Gervais, and it seems to be a safe haven everytime we are chasing/running from the weather further up in Chamonix.
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@Jameswp, what's wrong with Flaine?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Worst ski trip in my life.

Arrived to only one lift open due to high winds, watched rain wash away the snow, and when the lifts opened the main run was shut for a mountain bike race.
Lower slopes to the town looked like a current cake with all the rocks poking through; I even took my skis off and walked down one day there were that many.
Had one decent day skiing, and that was off piste/ out of bounds.
Stayed in Le Hammeau, which meant entertainment was watching cars slither down to the monolithic mess at the bottom and watching the tennis courts appear under the rain.
This was in January, not late season!

Never been back.
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Worst ski trip in my life.

Arrived to only one lift open due to high winds, watched rain wash away the snow, and when the lifts opened the main run was shut for a mountain bike race.
Lower slopes to the town looked like a current cake with all the rocks poking through; I even took my skis off and walked down one day there were that many.
Had one decent day skiing, and that was off piste/ out of bounds.
Stayed in Le Hammeau, which meant entertainment was watching cars slither down to the monolithic mess at the bottom and watching the tennis courts appear under the rain.
This was in January, not late season!

Never been back.
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@Jameswp, but why would you go to Flaine if you;

a: wanted snow
b: didn't like rain
c: didn't like wind
d: didn't like mountain bikes

Puzzled Puzzled

Any fule knos that it is always windy, always raining, never, ever, ever gets any snow and is always, always, always running mountain bike races (because there's never, ever any snow so they can plan ahead).

rolling eyes rolling eyes
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Laughing
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under a new name wrote:
@Jameswp, but why would you go to Flaine if you;

a: wanted snow
b: didn't like rain
c: didn't like wind
d: didn't like mountain bikes

Puzzled Puzzled

Any fule knos that it is always windy, always raining, never, ever, ever gets any snow and is always, always, always running mountain bike races (because there's never, ever any snow so they can plan ahead).

rolling eyes rolling eyes


Well it was 1992, internet research was a little less easy back then.
Easy to have one of the list in a week, but I`ve never before or since run up the whole damn lot in one go.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Jameswp, Do you not think that all the surrounding stations would have had similar conditions that week ? They are all at similar altitudes.
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No, @j b, surely St Gervais (significantly lower altitude than Flaine) would have had lots of lovely fluffy white snow and wall to wall sunshine.
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@pam w, whoops, did I say St Gervais would have better snow than Flaine at that time of year? Actually I think Flaine (or somewhere with easy access) is a better bet for more open pistes then, but the smart move would be to wait before finalising since either will be OK some years.
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Jameswp wrote:
Well it was 1992, internet research was a little less easy back then.
Easy to have one of the list in a week, but I`ve never before or since run up the whole damn lot in one go.


So you were unlucky. Just as well you didn't pick this region in 89, 90 or 91. A whole lot worse.

My point is just, having decided that one fairly high resort, generally well known and with a good reputation for its snowfall is crap, based on a single experience, you then lstate you like an area in the same geography, with the same prevailing weather and significantly lower.

Looks to me like you secretly really loved Flaine and can't wait to repeat the experience.


Last edited by snowHeads are a friendly bunch. on Wed 12-05-21 9:57; edited 1 time in total
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EdYarker wrote:
@j b, Thanks for the advice. Yes I can (and will probably have to) hire a car. Just would prefer not to IF I was heading to a close resort.
@DCG, there are actually flights from Bristol to Basel which could just about work and perhaps brings Engleberg into the equation. I know very little about the place but it looks fairly high.
As most people are alluding to, my best bet is probably booking flights to Geneva, biting the bullet with a high car and study the forecasts when we get close. I still think the option of St Gervias with back up skiing in Les Cs is on the cards but why take the risk booking now? Thanks all once again.


I think you are planning a 2 day trip? My view is that for a two day trip I want a SHORT transfer, I'd be more flexible for 3 or 4 days. Many of the Swiss options are a bit long IMV. Verbier is probably at my margin on transfer distance but definitely a very good option in other respects. I've done a couple of weekends to Engelberg (including one in 2020 in mid-December) - it has got a lot to recommend it, train transfer is longer than by car (but less so when you allow for hire car pick up etc) but very smooth and easy and you will in easy walking distance of your accommodation. It is high enough that there will definitely be snow. The town is attractive. While there is plenty of skiing for anyone for a weekend, it does best suit keen skiers - there is not much easy cruising on offer. All that said, if you can get flights to Zurich then I think Engelberg should be high up your list if you want to book. If you are happy to just get flights then GVA always makes a lot of sense. You could hope for early snow in StG/Les C and use Verbier as a more snow sure back up
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So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
under a new name wrote:
Jameswp wrote:
Well it was 1992, internet research was a little less easy back then.
Easy to have one of the list in a week, but I`ve never before or since run up the whole damn lot in one go.


So you were unlucky. Just as well you didn't pick this region in 89, 90 or 91. A whole lot worse.

My point is just, having decided that one fairly high resort, generally well known and with a good reputation for its snowfall is crap, based on a single experience, you then choose a selection of areas that are in the same geography, with the same prevailing weather and significantly lower - oh, and at a time of year when snow is unlikely.

Looks to me like you secretly really loved Flaine and can't wait to repeat the experience.


That's the period when I did most of my early skiing (at university - bit of a late starter) - early Jan in Megeve, Meribel and Argentiere and we had some pretty rubbish conditions. I'm no kind of climate change denier but fact remains that SO FAR late 80s and early 90s was worse for snow that anything we have had in recent years
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@jedster, I did my youthful seasons (I don't count geezonnairing in Chamonix) 88-89, 89-90, 90-91 Shocked Shocked Had a ball but iirc just before the half term (i.e. mid Feb) in '90 the whole Portes du Soleil was down to 2 chairs serving 6 scrabbled pistes in Avoriaz ... Shocked Shocked
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
January 2007 was bad as well in Haute Savoie, some stations closed completely until the end of the month.
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under a new name wrote:
@jedster, I did my youthful seasons (I don't count geezonnairing in Chamonix) 88-89, 89-90, 90-91 Shocked Shocked Had a ball but iirc just before the half term (i.e. mid Feb) in '90 the whole Portes du Soleil was down to 2 chairs serving 6 scrabbled pistes in Avoriaz ... Shocked Shocked


THat's miserable. Not withstanding my earlier comment, I fear we will see that again in the coming decades. A horrible thought that I try to avoid!
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88 verbier, 89 verbier, val d`isere, 90 vdi, St Anton, 91 meribel, vdi, 92 Flaine.

Verbier were both january and more like march/april, `90 was december for my 22nd with 4 feet of fresh snow in the village.
That was probably the first time that I had actually seen it snow in a ski resort.
The st anton trip, was rock hopping on monday, started snowing on tuesday and did not stop for the rest of the week.
From memory there was a world cup race that week, it was cancelled for lack of snow, then too much snow!
Considering I was on apprentice wages and only had 16 days holiday a year, I wonder how I managed.
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@Jameswp, '90 iirc then was dry for about 6 weeks. A high pressure south blocking patterns to the Alps through January is not at all unusual.
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under a new name wrote:
@Jameswp, '90 iirc then was dry for about 6 weeks. A high pressure south blocking patterns to the Alps through January is not at all unusual.


Only in France! This is is a typical mid-Dec day over the border in CH wink

http://youtube.com/v/A32smOHyfy4
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@EdYarker, now this thread has attracted the attention of @jedster you can ask for expert advice on Les Contamines as a possibility. I suspect it doesn't get more early snowfalls than St Gervais or La Clusaz, but it might be better at holding on to anything if the weather warms up a little.

Neither do I know when it typically opens the lifts, or when the village's facilities get going (my impression from out of season visits is that it is more seasonal than St G which has most things open all year). It is 15 minutes beyond St G in terms of transfer, which can be done by BlaBlaBus as well as in a rented car. Not the biggest of resorts in itself but plenty of good skiing for a couple of days. For longer trips St G/Megeve/Combloux is on the same lift pass, but there is no direct connection on skis.
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@BobinCH, 89-90 we had to excursioned Courmayeur to get snow, then again, Verbier just that further away from Morzine so maybe that was why.
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j b wrote:
@EdYarker, now this thread has attracted the attention of @jedster you can ask for expert advice on Les Contamines as a possibility. I suspect it doesn't get more early snowfalls than St Gervais or La Clusaz, but it might be better at holding on to anything if the weather warms up a little.

Neither do I know when it typically opens the lifts, or when the village's facilities get going (my impression from out of season visits is that it is more seasonal than St G which has most things open all year). It is 15 minutes beyond St G in terms of transfer, which can be done by BlaBlaBus as well as in a rented car. Not the biggest of resorts in itself but plenty of good skiing for a couple of days. For longer trips St G/Megeve/Combloux is on the same lift pass, but there is no direct connection on skis.



I think Les C gets more snow in general so probably does have a better december record - it's a function of its position at the head of the valley facing the prevailing westerly weather systems. There have been a couple of weeks at xmas since we bought that Les C has been the only place in the EMB that was open.

Certainly true that while the village has about 2000 permanent residents it is still quite seasonal. e.g., I believe the 3 supermarkets operate in rotation in the shoulder seasons. Mid week, mid december it will be VERY quiet. Even at the weekends in Dec the vast majority of the skiers will drive in for the day. St G would feel more lively (not that it is a party town) and a more interesting base. It's another reason to hire a car
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I mean, early-mid Dec can be lovely, Les Houches this last Dec - if that had been properly bashed it would have been mighty fine for some time, even without the snow falls that followed. Not every year is like this.

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ooohhh
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@jedster, I agree with you about a 2 night stay, which is why I wanted somewhere like La Clusaz or St Gervais, an hour or so from the airport. We did a similar trip to Innsbruck a couple of years ago and were on the slopes less than an hour after arriving. As mentioned, Innsbruck flights don't work this time, but at least with Geneva we can get a later departure enabling us to ski fully on the final day.
My original thinking with St Gervais was that somewhere like Les Contamines might offer a back up if we are not as lucky with the weather as @under a new name, was in Les Houches last year and we would still have a relatively interesting resort to explore in the evenings. The conclusion I have reached from this thread is that this still isn't a bad plan, but the chances of decent snow in St G is not quite as good as I had hoped. But a 15 minute commute to Les C isn't the end of the world, if the buses are running that early in the season, or we hire a car. I guess where we will get caught out is if there is poor snow in Les C, or it is not properly open that early in the season, which is why not committing until nearer the time is sensible (but it's nice to discuss the options anyway).
The thread has also thrown up the attractiveness of getting the train directly from Geneva Airport to a Swiss resort and Le Chable (to ski Verbier) looks like the best bet here. I agree that a 2.5 hour + transfer isn't ideal for such a short trip but the fact that it will be on the train and looks so straight forward might make up for this. Engleburg sounds decent as well but maybe too knarly for the wife and we would be flying into Basel, not Zurich, which limits our alternatives if we wanted to stay flexible.
It's been really good hearing from everyone and thinking about skiing for the first time in a while, so huge thanks to all contributors.
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