 Poster: A snowHead
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Had the fortune to spend some time in Japan sandwiching a bit of work in a triple combo – 2 days skiing in Zao Onsen, 3 in Myoko Kogen and then 7 with Rob/Scott (Inside Out) in Niseko. Will tackle in that order with a few other thoughts at end:
Zao first – an incredibly atmospheric place to be, especially for the onsen-lover. The skiing seems to draw early stage skiers who are happiest on the groomed stuff, leaving plenty of powder free if you want that just off the pistes plus 3 blacks left ungroomed. I was only there briefly and skiing solo so did not explore much off-piste, not sure there is massive amounts to be had. Lots of good food to be had on the mountain, although my favourite was the ramen noodle bar down at village level (next to Best rental ski shop – who are also good). Local honesty bar onsen (public baths with hot mineral waters) are nice and hot; highlight for me though was an outside one set in the trees, snow falling, steam rising, pure magic. Only a tiny % of Zao skiers being Aussies, Hong-Kongers and the odd token Brit; v friendly locals do all they to communicate and much innocent fun to be had here. Stayed in Lodge Scole, v nice place to be with good people/vibe and handy for slopes. Fell in love with Zao Onsen and would love to go back. Think that about 4 days skiing would be perfect before moving on; it is pretty simple to get to via bullet train/bus.
Myoko Kogen was next, following a city break in Kanazawa on the west coast (itself a loverly place if you get the chance, full of sights, sounds, friendly people and fantastic food). Had 3 days skiing in Myoko, stayed at Hotel Moc in the Kanko resort (Myoko has about 10 resorts in total, some of which are linked together by free bus, most not.) Myoko grew on me; first impressions were low key compared to the charm of Zao. Some fun bars and cafes and restaurants. Myoko has a bigger range of skiing than Zao, and its USP seems to be the snow – both quantity and quality…Day 2 and 3 of skiing were top notch powder days, esp day 3.
Something like 40cm of fresh to play in, and not exactly massive competition for it. Skiiers left of the top lift and down through the trees was endless fun. 5-6 days skiing prob about right for this area, unless you want to explore more of its areas or just generally chill.
Finally had 7 days in Niseko, on Hokkaido, with Rob/Scott. It is a trip they may be looking to build up in future years (perhaps they should prune the videos of me wiping out!).
Niseko took a bit of time, too, to grow on me. Partly as the famed powder did not really arrive en-masse, and so conditions were some way less than epic. Still, a good amount of off-piste skiing to be done in all sorts of snow types during the week sure was a good basis for dealing with future offpiste sorties. We were in lower Hirafu village and that was a good spot, easy shuttle bus to/from slopes (staffed by incredibly friendly and helpful staff) and some v nice chilled bars/restaurants in vicinity. Of course, loads of Aussies in resort; shame Ashes were not on…Plenty of other ski areas can be accessed from Niseko as we regularly see from Mike Pow’s posts, and if there is a next time for me here then would def book in some local guiding which would be esp impt if fresh snow is not abundant. It is funny how Niseko seems to = skiing in Japan for most folks, whereas plenty of other spots can perhaps offer a more ‘authentic’ experience if that matters to you.
More generally, Japan is just the most fascinating place I have been to, and if you are able to go there to ski suggest you eke out a bit more time to see some of it beyond the slopes. I was lucky enough to see quite a variety of stuff in 3+ weeks. I loved all of it. Food is wonderful, esp if you like your seafood & enjoy slurping. Prices not too bad, esp as Yen has weakened. So much old besides new in terms of culture and architecture. Japan’s debt and wider socio-economic problems are well-documented. What intrigued me is how well it will be able to compete against its noisy neighbours – China, Korea esp but also the Malaysias and Vietnams. The population is certainly an aged one, there is an adherence to rules and hierarchy and consensus, they have incredible technology (gotta love your bog seat all heated up for morning movements) but seem (to my untrained eye) to waste energy ever so casually. Yet as a visitor it is a delight to be there, with pleasant surprises around every corner and people who combine modesty with a sense of fun and genuine hospitality. Interesting to return to the UK and realise just how much of a melting pot of peoples the UK now is, compared to Japan where that is so much less the case/obvious. Also, I don’t recall our beloved Heathrow ground staff respectfully bowing and waving at the passengers on departure as did their Japanese brethren….
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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DoubleBombardino, Great read. Specially about the first two resorts and Japan in general. Very tempting. Thanks
Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Thu 14-02-13 12:09; edited 1 time in total
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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DoubleBombardino, nice report. Had a fun trip to Zao a few years ago.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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DoubleBombardino, Loved Zao and the ramen bar!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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DoubleBombardino, how where the snow monsters 
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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DoubleBombardino, great TR! 
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hi radar, the monsters where shaping up nicely twas quite snowy and a bit breezy when i was there so only went up there the once given low viz and tbh was more intent on getting back to calmer waters than snapping the monsters! Think I got the Lodge Scole rec from a trip report of your's and was a good spot alright.
BTW Pedantica, you don't get off that lightly, reckon a Japan trip for 2015 is in order, 2014 if the lottery boat comes in.
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Hmmmmmmmm. Kanazawa. I have a colleague at Kanazawa University. I feel an application for funding to set up a collaboration coming on  .
I can remember sharing a bath and a converstion at an onsen in Yuzawa with an old guy who was very keen to show off his English (learned many years ago on a language course in nEastbourne):
"Ah. You play ski. - I play ballroom dancing"
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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DoubleBombardino, glad it helped, hope you got some of Mao's cake as well.
Acacia, had some similar conversations, though not in the bath
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Three great and very different choices.
+1 to seeing more of Shiribeshi than the Niseko Resort Area
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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DoubleB, what skis were you on and how did you rate them?
I had some old Salomons first then swapped to Elans in Myoko. In Niseko I was on Dynastar Cham 87s which were great in the tracked powder and through the trees.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Hi dbeatski, in Zao on standard 'carving' skis, main problem was the shop finding me a set > midget length. In Myoko had some 90mm and then went fatter for final day (can't recall the brand/models), good shout given how much powder was about and that I'm still a novice on that soft stuff. In Niseko was on Movement Trust, long and fat. Am no expert either at skiing (cue headplant image above) or evaluating skis, but got distinct impression that they responded best to strong skiing - when I was on my game they were excellent and surprisingly versatile.
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