 Poster: A snowHead
|
|
There's often a lot of discussion about bindings. I see that for something special - telemarking, ski jumping, cross country skiing the bindings pure functionality becomes important to the intended use, but what does it mean to the average on-piste, guided non-extreme off-piste skier. I've been told that my new skis will have system bindings and that I should really like them. I'm pleased that I should like them, but what difference in use/functionality will I notice and why over hire bindings and possibly other bindings that I may experience with time.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Megamum, They will weigh less than demo/hire bindings but be less adjustable for boot lengths.
The whole point of bindings (other than tele/touring) is that you don't notice them. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
OK, then and following on from the original question, what purpose do the little arms serve that move up and down as the bindings operate and seem to sit on the outer edge of the skis please? They don't seem to be necessary to the getting in and out of the bindings? Sorry, I know these are probably all simple questions, but I'm about to own my first set of bindings and want to know about them.
Also, do bindings need maintenance - oil in certain spots etc.?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
I'm sorry to say, that my binding knowledge is not up to speed with my ski knowledge.
I'm hoping to learn something with this thread, and hope that someone will correct me, where I'm wrong.
System bindings are made to fit a plate or rail on your skis. No drilling necessary to mount the binding.
These are usually heavier than flat mounted bindings, but not as heavy as a rental or demo binding. Some system bindings, as in Volkl motion bindings are designed to flex with the ski and allow for that little bit of energy feedback from the ski.
Flat mounted bindings, are the standard binding that you need to drill. There is a vast variety of these. You'll find most powder skis and twin tips will be flat mount and people who use them can be very particular about what they want in a binding.
I'd like to learn more about the pivot bindings and what kind of bindings hold up best for wider skis and aggressive skiing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Megamum, no such thing as a silly question if you dont know the answer. I am somewhat surprised you didnt know what a brake was. I only mention it because it has sounded to me that you have received excellent instruction judging by other comments you have made in various threads
Generally most instructors at the first timers stage should have explained the basic parts of the ski and what they do.
off topic and just out of curiosity did anyone ever explain how you should buckle your boots up?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
skimottaret, No - I've never had the parts of the ski explained - that might have something to do with the fact that my instructor speaks v.v. little English. When I first skied 10 years+ ago I just hired skis and had no lessons and taught myself to snow plough. Maybe on seeing that could do a basic snowplough the instructor could also have thought that someone would have already told me. Is there anything else I ought to know please!! 
The man at Skee-Tex did tell me how to do the boots up when I bought them - though I may have now forgotten I think it was to work from the toe upwards and finish with the velcro band at the top (if that's wrong then its because the brain cell is currently asleep not because I wasn't told when I bought them). Funnily enough I've owned walking boots for years, but it wasn't until I bought new ones in Milletts in August that I was told how to do them up properly too!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
Having slim feet I do my boots up the following way... grunt, swear, manage to get one buckle hooked up, swear some more, stand up gasping and sweating, bend down again, wobble and almost fall over, almost manage to get another buckle fastened, slip and skin knuckles on buckle, swear lots, bleed onto snow, give up and order another coffee.
Repeat process untill boot successfully done up.
Repeat process for other boot.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Megamum, swiss guy might only have little english but seems to know how to teach skiing..... no big deal but doing boots up ( i am sure i will be corrected from the bootfitters) start by sitting down and bang the boot heel down on the ground so that your heel is back in the boot. then buckle up the second from the top buckle, then the top one. THen stand up an lean forward to draw your foot back in the boot and do up the toe and top of foot buckle.
and then curse, sweat, wobble, get a coffee and ..... 
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
I can't believe someone can have over 3000 posts on here and don't know what ski brakes are - the mind boggles
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
|
Bang heel back into boot, while sitting down. Stand up, bend over (multi-tasking here, this is a useful morning back stretch) do clips up, firmly but not tightly, starting from the toes and working upwards; don't bother with velcro strap at the top at this juncture. Then start again from the toes, doing them up a notch tighter on each clip, which at this point will probably be as tight as they will go. Fasten velcro strap. Straighten up slowly, with knees slightly bent, 'uncurling' the spine. Job done, including a small Pilates exercise.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
Interesting that there are so many different answers to the "how to do a ski boot up" question - here's another angle, lifted from the Profeet website:
When putting on your boots, ensure your heel is well placed into the rear of the heel pocket. Close the cuff of the boot with the power strap to aid initial buckling and then start by alternately tightening the top two buckles only on the shin of your boot. This will ensure your foot moves to the rear of the heel pocket providing maximum steering control and comfort. Next close the bottom buckle over your toes, and lastly the buckle over the in-step. These last two buckles never need to be closed tightly; just enough to feel contact or wrapping of your foot. Over tightening of these buckles will speedily shut down the circulation of your feet and remove any enjoyment potential once held in your day. Lastly, firmly secure the power strap around your boot.
Hell, I've no idea if this is the "best" method but it seems "heel back, shin buckles, bottom buckles" is a quick summary, and not far removed from skimottaret's version
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Oh blimey, yet another thing I'm doing wrong. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
I rarely do up the instep buckle for the first couple of runs as I find it easier to get my legs and ankles warmed up without it. Once the legs are moving a bit then I just put it on the first notch.
Megamum, it becomes very apparent how handy the brakes are when you ski on something that is so wide the brakes don't fit. I forgot this when I was on Volkl Sumos last week, put the skis on the snow when we got out of the helicopter and then had to rugby tackle the bl**dy things when they started sliding towards the edge of a cliff
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
BGA,
| Quote: |
I rarely do up the instep buckle for the first couple of runs
|
Actually, I forgot that bit, I too often undo the instep clip - because it feels too tight - after the first couple of turns and do it up again when I've warmed up.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
so many people start off with the toe buckles really tight which crushes to foot and instep and causes a lot of sore/cold feet and pins and needles
PhilG, good description and Megamum, it will make a difference to both comfort and skiing. as BGA says the instep buckle shouldn't be to tight and it can be a good idea to let the boots warm up and expand before doing up the last buckle. WHen i lean forward in the boot the instep buckle starts to come loose.
And lastly Megamum how many socks do you wear and do you tuck in your trousers to make sure snow doesnt get down your boot?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
You are wicked.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
veeeight, sometimes but disingenuous this time, she needs/wants to learn....
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
To get back to the initial point Megamum, I have a feeling that you're getting Elans? Perhaps I'm wrong...
If you are, the fusion binding system that they use is pretty sweet. It's really easy to adjust to your boot, you just flick a little switch thingy and move it. Good if you're swapping skis with someone or something like that. Apart from that, I don't think you'll really notice the difference though as mentioned they'll be lighter than demo bindings.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
skimottaret, I have bought my boots down to get the sole lengths for when Gavin at Elan calls me so as I've got them handy tonight I will play around with the buckling up process!!
In terms of trousers - as far as I have learned these should be outside of the boots (OK, so some things I don't know, but I do have 3000+ posts under my belt  ). The smaller amount of fabric around the calf under the boot the better. This leads onto socks. These I have learned should be of natural fabrics and ideally should not be too thick. Unfortunately these also come expensive and as I like fresh socks each day (sometimes two pairs per day if I get a chance to change them at lunchtime) I have not yet sprung for 7+ pairs of these expensive items. Instead I try to limit it to one longish pair of standard tourist looped fabric ski tubes with a partial natural fibre content. I find the ski boot is uncomfortable around the calf with no sock under it so I like the sock to come beyond the end of the boot. My boots are a tad (but not too much) large (I hope to see the fitters in October), so sometimes I wear a shorter sock around the foot under the longer ones so I still only have one layer of fabric around the calf.
For coolness someone said on the TV one day that glove cuffs should be inside sleeves, but this seems such a faff, that I ski round with uncool sleeves!!
Hurtle, Those walking boots. You might be doing it right anyway. However, I always used to get to the lace clips at the top and hot the laces under the clip then as they came out of the top then cross them over to the next clip from the top position. The lady in Millets suggested that it was better for the clips (put less strain on them) if you hooked the laces over the clip and then took them across the boot from the bottom of the clip. She said that it it also had the advantage of make the boots look more interesting and it would show other walkers that you knew what you were doing - the implication being that I didn't (but then I'm no walking addict!!)
Thanks all this is an interesting thread
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Megamum, if you wear more expensive natural fibres, you should not feel the need to change your socks at lunchtime .
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
|
Helen Beaumont, if she had better-fitting boots, she wouldn't work so hard and need or remember to.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
Megamum,
| Quote: |
better for the clips (put less strain on them) if you hooked the laces over the clip and then took them across the boot from the bottom of the clip.
|
Weird. I've never had a pair of walking boots that have suffered from noticeable clip strain. However, you might be interested in this tip from a contributor to a rather splendid website called www.go4awalk.com: when lacing your boots up instead of tying a knot at the top as is usual with shoes, back lace a few hooks down before tying. This will prevent the top of the boot pinching and make for a more comfortable fit. I haven't tried this yet, but it would help to cure the several-feet-of-spare-lace syndrome. Wonder if the bootfitters have any views...?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hurtle, Yes!!.............that was also something the lady in Millets said - I'd forgotten that, but it was also something she said. I wonder if she and the lady on your website are the same person!! B.t.w. I have never noticed clip strain on my old boots either!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
Megamum, don't forget the extra lace is also there to help change lacing pattern. X is provably the shortest, something like shoestore or Z-pattern takes more lace.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
So I've been putting boots on wrong for years - very rarely do it sitting down but usually standing at the back of the car or in the boot room, hallway etc 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
OK, I'm going to continue with this thread as it was mine to begin with and this does relate to bindings. I mentioned that the chap from Elan was going to call to get the information about the boots so that he can adjust the bindings before sending me the skis. Well I've looked and there are lots of figures on them - which one does he need? They are a pair of Head 8.8 and if its any guide I take a 7-7.5 UK shoe size. On the side of the boot near to the heel it says 305mm. On the sole in the middle between the toe and heel plates (?) there are two figures 260 and 265. Is it the 305mm that is required please?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
Megamum, Fair enough, but have you thought of PMing one of the bootfitters?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Megamum, 305mm is the sole length and is the measurement that's needed
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
Hurtle, Sometimes I think PMing someone is a bit presumptious because you kind of oblige someone to provide an answer - on a public column folks can choose to ignore you if they wish.
LARGEZOOKEEPER, I'm honoured sir - many thanks {tugs forelock}
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Megamum, going by the boot sole length of my own boots, (smaller size) you need the 305mm as the boot sole length.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Quote: |
When putting on your boots, ensure your heel is well placed into the rear of the heel pocket. Close the cuff of the boot with the power strap to aid initial buckling and then start by alternately tightening the top two buckles only on the shin of your boot. This will ensure your foot moves to the rear of the heel pocket providing maximum steering control and comfort. Next close the bottom buckle over your toes, and lastly the buckle over the in-step. These last two buckles never need to be closed tightly; just enough to feel contact or wrapping of your foot. Over tightening of these buckles will speedily shut down the circulation of your feet and remove any enjoyment potential once held in your day. Lastly, firmly secure the power strap around your boot.
|
Bit dificult for me to follow those instructions as my boot doesnt have:
1) a power strap
2) 2 buckles on my shin
I usaully start from the toe up, leave the second buckle over my instep just tight and close the 3rd buckle around the shin as tight as I can comfortably get it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
Megamum, going back to socks. Treat yourself to just one pair of merino wool socks - they are so lovely to wear and totally different to those tubular ones. They wash and dry so quickly you don't need lots of pairs.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RachelQ, can merino wool socks be machine washed?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
