 Poster: A snowHead
|
OK, following on from my previous question on ski's from various years, whats the difference between different bindings, is there anything in particular I should be looking for ?
There seems to be big differences in cost, are cheap ones cheap because of the materials and likely to break more easily ?
Obviously the most important thing is the colour, they need to match the ski's but I can't work out the differences technically that will translate to better performance or stability when skiing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
It's a fair question. Most people I think buy bindings packaged with their ski's and don't think too much about it. This seems a reasonable stab to me:
http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/alpine-ski-bindings.html
Intermediate vs. Advanced Models
Intermediate: For value-minded skiers who put a priority on ease of entry.
Advanced: Usually higher in price, with added features typically important only to sophisticated skiers, such as longer retention and travel before release. Wider bindings usually fall into this category. Often with higher DIN (release settings; see below) and beefier construction due to the higher forces exerted on them.
| Quote: |
| Obviously the most important thing is the colour, they need to match the ski's |
You are kidding right 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
One of the sites I was looking on has skis but with several options on bindings at varying price ranges, which is why I asked the question.
I can't find anything definite on why an expensive binding would be any better than a cheaper one for my particular requirements/level.
I was joking about the colour but it may sway me if I can't find any technical reason 
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
Yup, if you're going to be hucking drops, doing big jumps or skiing hard as in racing or just very fast then a stronger binding may be preferable. A stronger binding may also be advisable if you tend to crash a lot at speed. I smashed a binding taking off and landing on a bloody big rock 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
Little Martin, Assuming your requirements/level are recreational skiing mostly on piste the all you need to do is to select a binding where your DIN setting is roughly in the middle of the range provided by the binding. For example -- if when I look at the charts I should set my bindings on 7 then a binding with a range of 4-12 would be fine, but one from 8-16 would not. Alpine bindings all have to be certified for use, so there is not reduction in safety going for a better value model.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
|
Looking at the Salomon range Snow & Rock as an example the max DIN setting is used in the name of the binding and they are priced accordingly: So Z10's are about £100/£120, Z12's about £140 and Z16's retailing at £320 (reduced to £224). And as ski says the recommendation is to be in the middle of the DIN setting. At each level you would expect the robustness of the binding to move up a notch (metal rather plastic components as an example).
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ski, thanks, that gives me something to work from
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Layne, so that's what those numbers man, I thought they might be year originally. That definitely helps. Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
Remember that being in the middle of the DIN range is more to do with having potential adjustment either way, they still work towards the ends of the scale.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
