 Poster: A snowHead
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When they service skis it seems like the big ski shops cannot be prevented from grinding your ski bases on their sanding belts till any small repairs are invisible and the whole ski base has been thinned. I always try, but they seemingly cannot help themselves.
My ski bases are now very thin and a small gouge I made in my ski base on Friday at the bottom of Hampstead Heath has gone right through the p-tex to show a small glimpse of the layer above.
I am hoping to repair my beloved Scott Missions for one more season. Is there anywhere near London who will do what I ask and fill the holes without overgrinding and killing them?
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 8-12-10 11:47; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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snowball, Try it yourself... I bought one of those p-tex repair pistols from spyderjon and with a little of the magic metal sticking tape it's easy to even repair quite deep holes. About £50 but you can also repair your friends skis for a small contribution of beer money.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Yes, I think that sounds like good advice,Scarpa. I've used p-tex candles regularly but they aren't that good for serious repairs. I'm not sure what the sticking tape does, though. I think I had better contact spyderjon. I would feel more confident if I had seen a demonstration. Where is he based?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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snowball, You can prob find any demos you require on you tube. I found the pistol to be so much better than the candles. I use a cheapo dedicated (to avoid flux residue) soldering iron to heat up the base and then extrude the pistol into the hole. Once it's set I just use a metal scraper (Scarpa vs scraper  ) to shave the material off and level the base and a touch of rough emery paper to continue the structure across the repair.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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OK, thanks. I've PMed spyderjon.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Scarpa, i cant seem to get the gun thingy to work well. whenever i have tried to do a repair the ptex from the pistol is kinda rubbery and pulls out when scraped.. any ideas ?
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skimottaret, let it cool more...or file it off with an illegitimate file
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CEM, i use a barstewart at the moment but perhaps need to let is set longer... unless it is a deep core shot i have been using regular old ptex seems to work better for me. might need a proper over the shoulder lesson on this though
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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skimottaret, also make sure the wound is clean before you start and, if possible, heat up the surrounding base. A hair dryer might help. I have a temperature controller hot air gun that goes down to 160C which seems to help.
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altis, ah good point... i had been using an iron but now that you mention pre heating perhaps i am getting some wax in the "wound" and need to de grease, probably should add a hair dryer to my bag of spanners , more junk to buy 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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skimottaret, is the gouge down to the core?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Scarpa, talked about a soldering iron, not just a hair dryer - really melting the old edge to get a bond. I am a bit nervous about that - that was why I was rather wanting a lesson rather than just a you tube clip.
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skimottaret, some tips:
- p-tex won't stick to metal or core material (it only bonds to other p-tex) so in cases were there's a lot of exposed edge or core either a metal grip foundation layer needs welding in first or, if it's a small deep repair, just fill the hole completely with metal grip.
- thoroughly degrease.
- the repair site needs to be heated to the point were the p-tex (adjacent to it) starts to soften/melt before you pull the trigger otherwise you won't get a proper 'welded' joint.
- let the repair fully cool.
- dress off with a sharp chisel & then a few quick londitundinal rubs with some sand paper.
If using a metal soldering iron be carefully as they tend to run at approx 500C whereas the p-tex melting temp is approx 285C. The pucka base repair pistols & gas base solderers (Base Doc) are designed to run at the right temperature. If using a soldering iron a 10-15mm circular/elliptical shaped head works best.
snowball, I haven't seen a PM?
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You know it makes sense.
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snowball, said
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| I've used p-tex candles regularly but they aren't that good for serious repairs. |
For smaller scrapes, I find the trick with candles is to not drip the pTex from too high, but to keep the flame just in contact with the base.
This has the double effect of heating the existing base material so that the molten pTex bonds better, and prevents too much oxygen getting to the flame, minimizing the amount of carbon that builds up in the flame.
As Jon said - for more serious core shots, particularly at the edges I don't bother with pTex any more, but just wack in some araldite / epoxy metal or whatever.
After edge-filing & base-scraping, I often give a quick once over with a B&D belt sander
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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spyderjon, thanks jon!!
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Poster: A snowHead
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snowball, have sent you a PM, might have another option for you 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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spyderjon, Goob point about the iron... I just dab with a fine tip but I actually use a little butane pocket one.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Re-PMed youspyderjon. Thanks radar, PMed you too.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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snowball, when my own repairs haven't cut the mustard I've gone to Ski Bartlett in Hillingdon (to the extent that the tech groaned the second time I went through his door!). They do a good job with filling rather than just grinding bases. I never go to S&R now - I had a pair that managed about two services there before ending up like yours sound.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Thanks Graham. (Only 5 weeks to Verbier! -Yipee)
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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hi mate cheers for getting back to me so quickly... so you reckon i can do with p-tex (it isn't too deep i.e not the core, i read p-tex doesn't work well on deep or core scratches)?
yeah when i pick them up, i'll be having words, and if he isn't reasonable then i will definitely put a complaint in!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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rishik, Give Spyderjon http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/ a nudge with an email inc. the pics for a rough estimate of the repair including shipping and get that off the price. That is NOT a 'small scratch' but it's not terminal damage.
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rishik, you will need a bit more than a Ptex candle, Ptex strips and a base doc, it doesn't look like its gone to the core which means you won't need metal grip.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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rishik, reparable no problem (I've skied on worse damage for several weeks before getting round to repairing it before), but you should definitely be getting money off for it...
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| Scarpa wrote: |
| snowball, You can prob find any demos you require on you tube. I found the pistol to be so much better than the candles. I use a cheapo dedicated (to avoid flux residue) soldering iron to heat up the base and then extrude the pistol into the hole. Once it's set I just use a metal scraper (Scarpa vs scraper ) to shave the material off and level the base and a touch of rough emery paper to continue the structure across the repair. |
Get to Spyderjon and the Piste Office
He is based up near Nottingham but he does have DVD based tutorials and all the kit to purchase. I did a half day course with him and can say it is well worth the trip up there. Brilliant time not to mention you sort your skis out at the same time. If there is more life in them he will get it out for you and explain why you should never let anyone near your skis. Especially grinding them just because they have a machine.
You will not regret the money or the time once you have been on the course. Many other comment on here concur.
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rishik, "winning" does not apply to auctions, not on ebay nor anywhere else.
Unless you mean winning to imply that you've by definition paid more than market value.
Anyway, doesn't look too serious, but doesn't look as though there's that much life left in them.
Hope you didn't win too high a price.
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You know it makes sense.
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cheers for the advice guys - will defo drop spyderjon a line shortly and get his opinion!
i haven't paid for them and am picking them up on monday, so i can easily just tell the guy to go jump, if the repair is too costly.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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That is easily repairable by a ski tech, will be good as new.
I would ask the guy for about £20 off to cover cost of this, assuming skis are otherwise in good nick.
HTH 
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cran
cran
Guest
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rishik, That's only a small scratch, easy to repair.
Knock £20-£30 off the price to cover the ptex and a scraper and a box of matches
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Yup - if you are near the Piste Office then make use of the knowledge contained within 
I get all my supplies from Spyderjon.
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