 Poster: A snowHead
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Before heading off to Bardonecchia I noticed that there was not much on Snowheads about the resort, so having returned I thought I would rectify that.
I travelled with my girlfriend who was a first time skier, I'm a decent intermediate (I hope) and used a late deal from Crystal, who were fine, but wouldn't let us book the learn to ski package and hence cost us an extra £150 or so. Double check with them before you book I guess. The idea was to find somewhere where she could attend ski school and progress onto proper slopes, while I could enjoy hooning around in the morning on my own before meeting for lunch and leisurely afternoons.
First impressions were not great. We chose a hotel near the Campo Smith area of the resort, away from the town centre but opposite the slopes and ski school. The area is modern and in 18 degree heat looked more like a sun resort in the Costas than the chocolate box maintainside retreat that my gf hoped for.. However I do recommend the hotel we used, Ca' Fiore. Clean, great food, lovely spa and opposite the slopes. Being away from town didn't matter. It's v quiet. Worth a walk around the old town area with a large church if you get time. But no real big nights out. Sitting Bulls, under the railway is the best bar.
Once we started skiing it was apparent there hadn't been much snow for a while and the temperatures had been high. The slopes are not low by any means (1300-2400m) and mainly north facing but were still very icey, with a number closed. I was later told that this had been a very poor winter by their usual standards of Bardonecchia (despite the huge snow falls elsewhere in the Alps). If this is the case, go to the far side of Melezet. The most interesting runs are here anyway.
The second day I headed to the higher Jafferau mountain via an efficient bus service. There is also a free minibus going directly from the slopes. This is a few 100m higher, above the tree line and subsequently had much better snow and even fewer queues. Unfortunately the lift system here is arcaic, with a couple of slow 2 man lifts and a couple of drags (one of which was shut) taking you all the way up. But having resolved to spend most of the week there it snowed hard, which just about saw us through the rest of the week on both mountains.
Meanwhile at a well taught ski school my g/f was making great strides. She was able to take on blues by the 3rd day and reds a day later. The blues are fairly tough here, so the move from the nursery slopes is a bit tricky. But she was delighted by here progress and the Campo Smith side of the resort is great for allowing you the feeling of movement, with easy links across the valley to the pretty village of Melezet.
Mountain restaurants are also very good especially on Campo Smith. The one at the top of the long drag being our favourite, with amazing views of Sauze on the run back around the mountain after. We found a one course lunch with beers or hot chocolates costing about 20-25 euros.
The final day was spent battling crowds. I had been warned of the hundreds who flock over from Turin at weekends and this wasn't wrong. The lift company opened all lifts and runs but it was still packed. I recommend an early brunch and then ski through 12-2pm, when the lifts are quieter.
Overall this place worked for us and was pretty good VFM. I would recommend it for couples, probably families, but maybe not those who wanted huge ski mileage and lash.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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EdYarker, thanks for the report. I have skied in Bardonecchia twice, 10 years apart, and wonder if the same single man chair is still in use, from the Jafferau car park up to the first skiing? VERY scary 
We enjoyed the skiing on Jafferau more than the main side as, on both holidays, the snow was markedly better and everything was much quieter. Agree it's not a party town, but suited us very well.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You will be relieved/ disappointed to hear they have got rid of the 1 man lift.
There is now a decent gondola up from the Jafferau car park. But the rest of the lifts are still antiques!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Went there on my second ever ski trip (1982?)
I can remember almost nothing about it....though name Campo Smith rang a bell.
Do I recall a long walk from our hotel to the ski area? Was that there or somewhere else?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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rungsp, Until Campo Smith was developed for the Olympics (2006?) most of the hotels were in the village away from the lifts/slopes and that was a bit spread out. I stayed in apartments about 10 minutes walk away, the first time we went, and in a hotel (Des Geneys) in a completely different part of town, but still a good 10 minutes away the second time. Campo Smith now has - I believe - a good apartment building which is the base of the lifts. I hope that this helps you to determine where you were as I really have no idea 
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I've been there spring break and first week Easter for the last two years. I stayed in the Hotel jafferau above the gondola at 1900m. Skiing below this level was not to be recomended at Easter. Very slushy.
I'm not sure if I'll be there again in 2013, but if so look me up.
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