I'm looking to get out to South America for the 2nd 2 weeks in August. Don't know a huge amount about these mountains apart from trip reviews and vids I've found. Seems like the snow is likely to be best then.
Two resorts I'm looking at are Las Lenas and Portillo but would appreciate other recs. Lifts seem a problem in Las Lenas but everything else looks good and Portillo looks quite small.
Going with 3 mates and really only want to ski off-piste. We are all decent skiers and up for touring and hiking.
Who's been out there? Which agent did you use, where did you stay, how much was it etc. Want to keep it as cheap as possible without going really nasty.
Thanks in advance. J
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
kesone1, interesting, irbis and I are planning a trip to South America either end July or last two weeks of August. Also offpiste skiers. Will be interested to see responses to this thread, and if planning coincides, perhaps we can even ski together.
The TGR forums have a wealth of info on South American skiing (better to search there before asking questions though...)
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Yes Irbis. Skiing together sounds good.
Might just go and TGR and ask some stupid questions. King Jong.
Might just go and TGR and ask some stupid questions. King Jong.
Contact Enlosandes on TGR, he lives there. Let's stay in touch. I also have a friend who spent 2 months in Patagonia this winter (their summer) and knows some guides in the area. I am tempted to go for Bariloche, but still researching the subject
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
irbis and kesone1,
I have been to Bariloche (albeit in the Summer not the Winter) and can recommend it as a great place. The skiing area ( Cerro Catedral ??) is a short drive out of town, maybe 10 or 15 miles. I did go there to have a look and it is small by European standards. The best way to get to Bariloche would be to fly from Buenos Aires. The distances in Argentina and Chile are vast and the roads are not good, and get worse the further South you go. There are overnight coach services around the country, I think one such is "Via Bariloche". In summer it was fairly hard to get around, in Winter I would imagine it is worse so a lot of careful planning and much web browsing is required, but they are both beautiful countries so i am sure you will not regret it.
Aerolineas Argentinas seems to have a poor reputation but I have taken many internal flights with them around Argentina and they have been fine. Unfortunately people from outside of the country have to pay more for their flights than the locals
The drive across the Andes from Mendoza into Chile (which passes Las Lenas I think...) is spectacular so if you get a chance to go that way take it!
There is a small ski hill at Ushuaia in the far south too if you want something different. Not very big though, we walked the piste from bottom to the glacier at the top in the Summer, great views of the Beagle Channel, it would be interesting to see what it was like in the Winter.
I would recommend Portillo but only for a week. It is an experience not to be missed and there is some great off piste accessed by a unique lift system - the va et vient! Then go to La Parva - about 2 hour transfer where you can stay cheaply in nearby Farellones which is linked to La Parva, Valle Nevado and El Colorado where there is some fantastic skiing and the off piste can be accessed long after a storm as so few skiing in August. You will meet all the international teams training in all the resorts - Austrians in Portillo when I was there. Best restaurant in La Parva is La Marmita de Pericles owned by a famous Chilean skier called Jan. Only 1.5 hours from Santiago and buses go there daily but be warned there are 40 hairpin bends on the way up so avoid a full English breakfast! Have a fantastic time and don't forget to go to a "cafe con piernas" when in Santiago
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I've been to El Colorado/Valle Nevado in Chile and would recommend it. Can be really good off-piste after a storm. Just remember everything is backwards there and south facing slopes are actually a good thing. August is a good time to go in general. Would be comparable to March in the Northern hemi. There are a few drag lifts to contend with and the lift lines really were not bad when we were there. The only thing that was annoying is the places on mtn want the Saturday to Saturday or they also do the short 5 night stays too, which can be a pain.
Also did Bariloche as well. Spent a few days in BA before flying out. We rented a car in Bariloche and stayed in town. The drive up to the ski area is not bad, and you have access to the night life in town. And a really good steak house. Will have to take a look at the name of it when I get home and post it. Lots of decent off-piste skiing when the snow is good. The lifties were not the best when we were there. Our first experience with Agentine lift ops was to watch six people get pushed off the loading ramp on the 6 pack at the base when the safety bar was still down on the chair as it came around to load and no liftie was paying attention to lift the bar or to hit the lift kill switch. All 6 went off the ramp and into a net. Some good on mtn restaruants too.
After all it is free
After all it is free
Quote:
Which agent did you use, where did you stay
We used a US firm - Casatours - who we would highly recommend. Did a week long road trip with them which was great value as their prices include most food, transfers, lift tickets and off piste guiding. They also fitted in a fantastic lunch at a winery (hic) on a long drive between ski areas . On the tour we skied the 3 Valleys resorts near Santiago plus Termas de Chillan. Highlight of the trip was a guided hike up a smoking volcano in Termas de Chillan and a fantastic off piste descent.
After the tour, we stayed on and - under our own steam - skied Portillo and also visited the Pacific coast town/resort of Valparaiso, which was worth a look.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
I second mountainaddict's recommendation.
We did a 15 day trip with CASA tours and skiied the above areas plus Pucon, which included a 4.5 hour climb up a steep, active volcano (Villarrica) and an incredible ski descent at sunset.
5 ski areas, 10 days skiing and more or less everything included (including off piste guiding, all lift passes, food - except lunches - very good accommodation, transfer between resorts - including an internal flight - the food stop at the plush vineyard mentioned above and a couple of nights in Santiago, which is worth a visit).
You just need to arrive in Santiago and everything is taken care of from there.
We had fantastic powder conditions and found the ski areas to be largely deserted.
I'd have no hesitation in recommending CASA and skiing in Chile!
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Hey there i recomend u www.chilextremo.com they have a hostel in the ski town of Farellones 1,5 hrs from the airport of Santiago, they made also transport airport- Santiago, airport- Farellones, Santiago-Farellones. The hostel is 15 min. walking to the slopes in El Colorado n 20 min by car to Valle Nevado or La Parva, the other 2 ski areas in Santiago, between the three of them its call Tres Valles. You can find al kind off piste area, shuts, powder, hicking, glaciers, no trees though.
Could also cordinate tailormade trips to other ski resorts in Chile and Argentina send them a mail n get more info.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Skiing in Argentina is good fun (can't comment on Chile). I've skiied Las Lenas, Cerro Catedral and Los Penitentes and enjoyed them all immensely.
Trenmold, the drive across from Mendoza to Santiago can be closed during the winter- I got caught out with that one. The ski resort on the way is called Los Penitentes- tiny but I skiied one day there in perhaps the deepest powder I've ever skiied and absolute white out conditions!!
Las Lenas- best terrain of the three mentioned above but lifts (four or five years ago) in desperate need of upgrading. I had to queue 45 minutes to get the Marta chair which accessed the best off piste (and top of the resort). You're also out in the middle of nowhere. Nearest town (where I stayed) is Mallargue and there's not exactly a lot there! Las Lenas itself is purpose built and quite small so there will be limited eateries etc.
Cerro Catedral- most European of the three. Biggest area and decent terrain. I think you could amuse yourselves for four or five days easily. Also if you stay in Bariloche itself it is beautifully. Consciously trying to be Swiss. The skiing has fabulous views over Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Penitentes- tiny but worth a day trip if you're in Mendoza to have a go!
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I stayed in the worst hotel I have ever visited in 30 years of travelling at Los Penitentes, so if you do go there, make it a day trip, don't stay!
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Penitentes is kind of like a motorway rest area with ski lifts.....you can book day trips from any of the numerous tour operators in Mendoza. Trip to the wineries is fun as well!
You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
I have skied both Bariloche and Las Lenas. We had a fantastic time in both, although, each were a little different. Bariloche was great fun, we stayed in a hostel called Marco Polo, private room, breakfast and dinner were something like €15 a night. Brilliant value. We actually got a taxi to and from skiing as with three to four people the cost of it versus the bus is not much abou €1 or 2. We stayed in Las Lenas, much more expensive, shockingly so, and not great value. All the hotels etc are owned by the same company so no competition. Having said that, met a couple of people who managed to get some of the apartments and they worked out not too bad.
The skiing in Las Lenas was incredible. The some of the best lift accessed off piste I have had the pleasure of skiing. Plenty of variety, and easy to access, without being too tracked. The problem as everyone knows is Marta and if the lift is open or not. For the week we were there, it was open every day, so I think we struck gold. There is also Cat skiing there, which is worth having a look at.
Getting around, we flew from BA to Bariloche and then took the bus up to Las Lenas. I would highly recommend this as a way of travelling. The level of comfort is high (business class airplance seats) that even I can get comfortable (I am prop in rugby, so me and small spaces are not friends.) On some of the trips you can get lie flat beds, champagne etc. Just go for the best standard of ticket available. Great way to see the country, saved us accommodation overnight, and actually worked out quicker time wise as we left after skiing for the day, traveled overnight and reached our desintation the next day...where as flying we would have had to leave the next day after skiing and spend all day travelling.
Final thing...ski hire is shocking there. We got some alright stuff in Bariloche (where there is competition) but Las Lenas was awful. Bring your own skis (even if you have to hire them before going...well worth while.)
Cheers
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Last time went was during the Argentine economy crash of 2001. Therefore i was getting great value.
I just bought an "Open Jaw" with SwissAir (old company). Out to Buenos aires Return from Santiago (Chile)
I pre booked a cheap hotel in BA for 2 nights. This was to give me time to track down a local argentine travel agent who could fix up all my ski itinery & get me to Puerto Monte in Chile. I did the Cruce de Lagos (Recommended) which in winter is an overnight in a hotel.
Las Lenas (Great except when Marte is closed)
Bariloche
Chillan (IMO best in Chile)
Portillio (small & over rated)
Valle Nevado (expanded a lot since i last went)
These are scanned celluloid pics
I stayed in downtown Santiago & used a rental car everyday to get up the hill to Valle Nevado. Accomodation on the hill is Expensive & there is very little to do. Santiago is Happening !
Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
stanton, love the photos...I think I have pretty much the same panorama of Lago Nahuel Huapi! I never actually managed to get over the pass to Santiago, I can only imagine how hairy it must have been before the tunnel was opened!
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
kesone1, did you decide? The other three of us are about to book flights for the last two weeks of August (with two more possibly coming for a week).
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
horizon Have you decided where you are skiing? And whether with a tour operator or not?
Echo stanton's recommendation for Chillan. Stay down the valley in Las Trancas.
And La Hoya was my favourite in Argentina
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
mountainaddict (and others) - we've reserved our flights to Santiago arriving 13 Aug early morning and leaving 27 Aug afternoon. We're still staying flexible on where to ski. One option is Portillo + Las Lenas, another is Portillo + Chillan. There may be a couple of days at resorts close to Santiago (Valle Nevado, La Parva) and at Los Penitentes close to Mendoza if we head across the border. Waiting a while to see where the snow starts falling etc. I don't think we will use a tour operator, they seem rather pricey.
FAQ
Poster: A snowHead
. On the tour we skied the 3 Valleys resorts near Santiago plus Termas de Chillan. Highlight of the trip was a guided hike up a smoking volcano in Termas de Chillan and a fantastic off piste descent.
