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Fitting Ski Bindings

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I am asking how difficult it is to fit ski bindings. I have a set of Sal Z10 B90 bindings that I want to fit to Sal Lords. From the instructions on fitting Z10s, it seems a fairly simple process. Drill some holes accurately for the screws and not too deep. I understand that the screws should be set in epoxy - any particular preference or would Araldite or similar suffice?? My boots are also quite small, 297mm, so I was thinking whether to fit the bindings with the rear binding towards the minimum adjustment. Finally, lost one of the side screws from a front binding - so where can I obtain a replacement??
Or I might wimp out and go to a shop!!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
colinstone, If you let a shop do it,they should be insured if they screw it up - then they'll replace the ski.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
colinstone, from some of the questions you have asked I would suggest visiting a shop.
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colinstone, Go to a shop, better than breaking a limb or worse! Araldite??
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
colinstone, everyone else has said it ...let a shop do it, also EPOXY????? nope...... binding glue (which is waterproof wood glue in reality) it is there to seal the holes, act as a lubricant for the screw going in and as a shock absorber with some elasticity

it does NOT hold the binding on
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You'll need to Register first of course.
epoxy is recommended for some skis
just sayin...
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Arno wrote:
epoxy is recommended for some skis
just sayin...


Not salomon lords last I heard Little Angel
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
colinstone, don't forget that if mounting without a jig, & especially with the heelpiece forward it it's track, to allow for the forward pressure travel on the heel.

Industry rate for a mount is £25 inc the screw you need.

Industry rate for one toe piece screw only is £25 wink
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
spyderjon, I've often wondered is the drilling done with a specially short drill that is not permitted from going below a certain depth, maybe by a 'stop'?
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Ski the Net with snowHeads
Megamum, strictly it's the drill bit that has the 'stop' (or it was 20 years ago when I was a ski tech), but broadly, yes. If nothing else it reduces the risk of expensive mistakes when spending the day mounting bindings on that season's stock of hire skis
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viv, Interesting, thanks! I must admit I often think about the bindings that screw into the surface of the skis and think what little area they are drilled into vs. the enormous forces that they have to deal with - it's quite amazing that it all works and holds together. Somehow the various rail systems that are almost set 'into' the body of the skis seem to engender more confidence in terms of 'build mechanism, but the screw system clearly works well given the lack of horror stories that abound. There must be some clever peeps about that worked it all out so it functions as it should.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Official Salomon instructions state

Use Salomon Glue,

Use Salomon Jug

Use Salomon Recommended Drill Bit.

Mounting without a Jug is quite difficult to be honest for a newbie but not impossible.

If I was you I would get a shop to do it.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Jug? You mean jig?
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Monium, nope he was right - you need beer in a workshop.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
i've got the salomon binding manual and fitting seems straight forward, assuming you have the jigs, tools and training. btw manual is freely available on epic ski.
i've fitted my own bindings to rails and agonised on setting the forward pressure, so the idea of drilling without a jig etc wouldn't fill me with a lot of hope.

get a ski shop to do it after all it's your knees vs 25 quid.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Thanks all. I do not think it is that difficult and having downloaded the Sal 2010/11 Manual it is quite simple to go through the manual, do an on-line exam and become certificated as a binding installer!! Some of the links are excellent and some very comprehensive instructions on how to do it. The most difficult part will be finding a 19mm self tapping 4.5mm blunt nosed screw - oh well, dig out the lathe!!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Megamum, the force between the binding and ski is not actually that great with releasable alpine bindings. One reason is that the major force is likely to be a twisting force and the relatively long lever (greatest distance between binding screws) between the front and rear parts of binding means the force is not too great (as the force x lever length is constant), and another reason is that modern bindings normally release before too much force is transmitted.

A comparison can be made with most telemark bindings, which are typically only attached to the ski with 4 screws under the toe area, and don't normally release in the same way. The lever length is around 10cm, compared to 30-40cms between the toe and heel pieces of an alpine binding, so the screws attaching a telemark binding take around 3-4 times the twisting force (the factor is actually higher if you take into account the variation in releasbility, and that you typically have 4 screws per binding, compared with a typical 8 across the toe and heel piece of an alpine binding). I've ripped a telemark binding out of a ski, but not an alpine one (then again, I don't really ski alpine bindings, but I've only once seen an alpine binding partly ripped out of a ski, which I expect was poor workmanship - it happened to a not particularly agressive skier on a blue/red slope)
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