 Poster: A snowHead
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Meribel is the place for me and Mrs Forne next year... but where to stay? I've had a bit of a mooch around and read on www.skiclub.co.uk that
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| "...the diffuse layout means that the resort itself is devoid of a single heart, and its atmosphere is accordingly muted. The convenience of the various hamlets for skiing, shopping and nightlife varies considerably." |
Sounds like a bit of a mixed bag. We're after somewhere handy for the lifts AND a fair few bars without being toooooo lively (been there, done that, bought the now rather musty-smelling and wee bit too tight T-shirt!)
Can anyone recommend a particular hamlet (or even apartment) that would fit our needs???? There's just the two of us and we prefer to self-cater. TVM! 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Mottaret sounds perfect. Meribel proper has better nightlife, but by the sounds of it you are not looking for that. Avoid all the other little hamlets as they are all either dead of remote from the lifts.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I would consider Les Allues or Meribel Village (confusingly a satellite village to Meribel itself) if you want to be in the Meribel Valley. MGM have appartments to rent in both villages. We lived in Les Allues for a season and loved it, but its only really suitable if you have a car. Parking is €2 for the day under the Chaudanne, from where you walk straight out onto the pistes. Meribel Village has a lift linking directly into the Meribel system and a fairly easy blue run back. Both have bus links into town at night if you want to sample the nightlife.
Les Allues has a great bar/restaurant called La Tsaretta which i can recommend highly, especially if you are over the age of 25!
Les Allues gets my vote for character (it's the original farming village in that valley) and is as convenient as anywhere as long as you dont mind driving.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Manda,
I worked a season at the Rond Point. That walk up the road/piste is a killer on the legs. Luckily we could usually get the Gendarmes or Piste Bashers to give us a lift!
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Meribel village is very pleasant but as has been said the snow cover can be sketchy. That said Meribel (in my experience) always has the worst snow conditions of the 3 Valleys. It's called the 'Garden Valley' for a good reason. The appartmetns to go for in Meribel Village are the Fermes de Meribel Village as I recall. Personally I'd avoid Meribel altogether and stay in Courchevel 1550 or Saint Martin de Belleville (Val Thorens valley). Mottaret is probably best for fairly quiet and straight onto the slopes but it is soulless.
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Manda, Meribel was recommended to me because I'm after somewhere with great big wide runs and I've been told it has them aplenty! Also, Mrs nforne saw it on some 'top holiday destinations' programme and liked the look. It's only going to be our second ski trip and we're looking for somewhere to build up confidence on intermediate slopes. A big choice of runs would be nice too. Can you think of anywhere else that fits the bill? We aren't 100% decided yet - just leaning heavily...
Bexen, looking at going late Jan/early Feb.
We won't be taking a car but don't mind a bit of a walk to the bars and shops. Would be nice to have an apartment near the lifts so we're not clunking around in ski boots (am I the only one to cast secret envious looks at boarders?)
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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nforne, Les Arcs has plenty of really wide blues and reds. Also parts of La Plagne. And both are large resorts with plenty of variety and not too many drag lifts. Also high (at least parts of the domaines) and snow-sure. You could easily achieve ski-in / ski-out in either of these linked resorts.
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nforne, don't discount good 'ol Val D'Isere, which I think is an excellent resort for beginner/intermediates. In fact most of the pisted terrain is green/blue, with lots of different options over a weeks holiday. Also, given the time of year you are intending to go, there will probably be a few cheap deals around. Another alternative is Tignes, which is cheaper, but arguably not quite as pleasant a resort to stay in. Val has a large range of shops/restaurants/bars/entertainment to suit all tastes, and I believe that there are a number of self catering options.
I would recommend going in late Jan rather than early Feb - it will be cheaper and you will avoid a potential clash with French school holidays, which will probably be a big factor influencing price/availability particularly wrt self catering accom. The French stagger their holidays by regions which means that most of Feb ends up clashing with one region or another.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| M80euf wrote: |
| nforne, don't discount good 'ol Val D'Isere, which I think is an excellent resort for beginner/intermediates. |
Perhaps I'm alone on this, but I think Val d'Isere is a terrible resort for beginners and early intermediates. There are few ways to ski back to the main resort if you're not confident on skis, and skiing back to La Daille can be a bit of a lottery. The so-called green piste down there has always been bumpy and icy whenever I've skied it. I once took a mixed ability group to Val and it wasn't a great trip for the first and second-week skiers.
My recommendation would be Courchevel - either 1650 or 1850. Great choice of pistes for 2nd-weekers, with lots of runs to progress to as you improve. Most importantly, two great British-run ski schools http://www.supremeski.co.uk/ or http://www.skinewgen.com/
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| rob@rar.org.uk wrote: |
| M80euf wrote: |
| nforne, don't discount good 'ol Val D'Isere, which I think is an excellent resort for beginner/intermediates. |
Perhaps I'm alone on this, but I think Val d'Isere is a terrible resort for beginners and early intermediates. There are few ways to ski back to the main resort if you're not confident on skis, and skiing back to La Daille can be a bit of a lottery. The so-called green piste down there has always been bumpy and icy whenever I've skied it. I once took a mixed ability group to Val and it wasn't a great trip for the first and second-week skiers.
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That seems to make sense, but I've taken beginners and they've loved it. What they've liked is nursery/beginner slopes high up, like top of the Solaise, so they're not stuck down in the village and the modern lifts that let them ride down. They also seem to like the village.
Of course, some of those at the EOSB were riding down in the lift 
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You know it makes sense.
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rob@rar.org.uk, you make a very valid point re skiing back which I totally accept. But as ise says, if one is prepared to "download" (especially feasible on the Bellevard side, also in Fornet/Pissaillas) then there is some very enjoyable early intermediate skiing. The Val bus service is also one of the best/most reliable I have ever come accross, so finishing the day at Fornet or La Daille is no problem. I think there is a new high spped chair being put into Le Laisnant at the bottom of the Solaise sector which should make downloading easier from that area.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| M80euf wrote: |
| rob@rar.org.uk, you make a very valid point re skiing back which I totally accept. But as ise says, if one is prepared to "download" (especially feasible on the Bellevard side, also in Fornet/Pissaillas) then there is some very enjoyable early intermediate skiing. The Val bus service is also one of the best/most reliable I have ever come accross, so finishing the day at Fornet or La Daille is no problem. I think there is a new high spped chair being put into Le Laisnant at the bottom of the Solaise sector which should make downloading easier from that area. |
I agree that once you get out of the village there is some terrific skiing for all abilities, but the hassle of getting back to the village at the end of the day was a real downer for the beginners I took with me. I also have an aversion to catching buses - the trip up from La Daille at 5pm was always like being in the middle of a rolling maul, with the added danger of skis and poles.
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Poster: A snowHead
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does Chez Kiki still exist?
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Yes, it does Bexen.
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Meribel (in my experience) always has the worst snow conditions of the 3 Valleys.
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Not always Chris Angus, in early Jan this year it was superior to Courchevel and St Martin. Usually, the main problem with Meribel is the sheer volume of slope users sweeping the runs clear day after day. The less trafficked areas of the 3V (e.g. C1650) don't suffer as badly in this respect.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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rob@rar.org.uk, clearly both resorts have their upsa and down. I encountered a problem in Courchevel with a weaker skier - a few friends agreed to meet at the top of Saulire for a end of day beer as some were staying in Meribel and some in Courchevel. Unfortunately there is no easy way down from there, and the situation was made worse by the fact that the pistes at the end of the day were not in great shape. It took well over an hour to coax one timid second weeker down! Not something I wish to inflict on anybody.
I agree that 1550 and 1650 provide lots of great early intermediate skiing, though I suspect the number of drag lifts would put off some. I think more and more of these are being replaced every year. I'm just not so sure about 1850 for that level of skier. In the end, I'm sure nforne would have a great time in Meribel, Courchevel, Les Arcs, La Plagne or Val D'isere at that time of year as they are all very good resorts for intermdiate skiers.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| M80euf wrote: |
| It took well over an hour to coax one timid second weeker down! Not something I wish to inflict on anybody. |
Yes, the top part of the Saulire red can be a bit daunting! There is a track which zig-zags dwon to the right of the piste which cuts out the steepest part of the piste which can make it achievable route for timid skiers.
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| I agree that 1550 and 1650 provide lots of great early intermediate skiing, though I suspect the number of drag lifts would put off some. I think more and more of these are being replaced every year. I'm just not so sure about 1850 for that level of skier. |
I think the replacement of the Signal drag this summer will mean that all the Courchevel valley will be skiable without riding a drag, with the exception of the Pyramide & Plan Mugnier pistes above 1650.
I think 1850 is just about perfect for 2nd-week skiers: they have the Jardin Alpin, Biolay, Verdon areas which are all gentle slopes with wide-open pistes; there are a couple of routes down from Chenus; they can easily ski down to 1550 including the new Cospillot extension piste; and for the more adventurous there are easy journeys to be made to ski to 1650 or even La Tania and back. No bus journeys, and no scary greens with moguls and ice!
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| In the end, I'm sure nforne would have a great time in Meribel, Courchevel, Les Arcs, La Plagne or Val D'isere at that time of year as they are all very good resorts for intermdiate skiers. |
Agree with this. They are all terrific resorts offering lots of opportunities for new skiers. Perhaps more than anything else I would recommend a 2nd-week skier chooses a good ski school rather than the 'perfect' resort. That will probably contribute more to your skiing enjoyment than anything else.
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Wed 8-06-05 11:33; edited 1 time in total
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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M80euf wrote:
It took well over an hour to coax one timid second weeker down! Not something I wish to inflict on anybody.
Yes, the top part of the Saulire red can be a bit daunting! There is a track which zig-zags dwon to the right of the piste which cuts out the steepest part of the piste which can make it achievable route for timid skiers.
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This option was considered - the problem is that many early early intermediates get fraked out by narrow paths! Inretrospect the best option was for the skier concerned to take the bubble down, but it was closed by the time we left the retaurant.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| M80euf wrote: |
| This option was considered - the problem is that many early early intermediates get fraked out by narrow paths! Inretrospect the best option was for the skier concerned to take the bubble down, but it was closed by the time we left the retaurant. |
Yes, especially when there are steep drops to the side 
I've found that an easier, although longer, route is to go around the back and ski down Creux as far as the new Gravelles chair (although no use if the lifts are about to close). Although it is also a red it is nowhere near as steep as Saulire.
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I'm after somewhere with great big wide runs and I've been told it has them aplenty! Also, Mrs nforne saw it on some 'top holiday destinations' programme and liked the look. It's only going to be our second ski trip and we're looking for somewhere to build up confidence on intermediate slopes. A big choice of runs would be nice too. Can you think of anywhere else that fits the bill?
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Well, yes. The 3V has that. But Meribel isn't the only place to stay in the 3V network. However it was purpose built by Brits in the late 70s and so it gets sold to the British market as THE place in the 3V to aim for. As a result there's v. little French spoken there and that's a turn off for many. Personally I don't mind Meribel itself (I just avoid Brits if they're being "typical" on holiday) - the problem for me is that the Meribel valley slopes are over-rated in comparison to the rest of the 3V network.
I personally would recommend you stay in Courchevel or its satelite villages - Courchevel valley has arguably the largest number of wide (and best maintained) easy cruising pistes of the entire network and as a learner you might as well stay near the better learner slopes anyway. Courchevel accomodation prices are only astronomical if you want them to be.
The Val Thorens valley is equally good in terms of wide open pistes. Val T itself has perfectly good accomodation, as do the lower villages (although Les Menieurs is still an eyesore).
Alternatively, as mentioned above, there's the Paradiski network (i.e. Les Arcs/La Plagne), or the L'Espace Killy network (i.e. Tignes/Val D'Isire), or Deux Alps, or the Portes du Soleil network. Each have their unique selling points/drawbacks, but overall they'd do the job for what you're after. NB these "mega" French resorts are relentlessly pushed to Brits by UK tour operators - however there are in fact a vast number of resorts which never make it onto the TO market - in France for example, Megeve/St Gervais would suit you fine. A number of Italian resorts would also fit the bill.
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nforne,
Avoid Meribel in February. The French schools are on holiday, hence the slopes are very crowded & the prices go up! I presume it is the same for all French resorts?
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| Manda wrote: |
the problem for me is that the Meribel valley slopes are over-rated in comparison to the rest of the 3V network. |
I agree with you to a certain extent, Courchevel and Val Thorens/Menuires feel a bit more open and extensive- but there are some blinding runs in the Meribel valley too.
The thing that I like most about Meribel is that you're in the middle of the Three Valleys giving you more choice and easier access to them all. When I go to that area I go to ski the Three Valleys rather than just the Meribel valley so it's definitely the most convenient for me. Horses for courses.
Having said that, depending on your skiing level, you might want to stick to one valley, and then it does drop some of its benefits. It still holds its own though!!
It does get busy in the French holidays (which now last over a period of about a month I think because they stagger them by region....) but so do all of the 'mega resorts'. If you want quiet, the quietest resort I've skiied in is La Rosiere/La Thuile, a great resort for intermediates.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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As a 2nd week skier I would have thought that any one of the valleys in the 3V would have been sufficient. I've often got a Courchevel pass and had a very full week skiing without needing to venture further afield. As others have said, there is no shortage of big French resorts offering lots of wide open gentle pistes. Les Arcs would be good (perhaps stay in Vallandry and ski school with New Generation?) although I accept that I might be biased!
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Picking up an obsucure part of this thread, is there a new chair for next season "Le Laisnant"? Will it go from the bottom of Piste L & Germain Mattis and if so where is it intended to end up. This could be a great improvement in the Val D'isere ski area, I've always really enjoyed both the above runs.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Val d'Isere - Basically yes. The top and bottom stations and the pylons were installed last summer and easily visible last season. The bottom station of the lift is close to the road and close to the bus stop at Le Laisnant. The top station is visible from the top of the Fornet cable car and from the Tete-d-Solaise; it is on the ridge between these areas. I think it was a little higher than the summer road.
Guessing now. They will need to make at least two new pistes from the top of the new lift. One into Fornet area, the other to Solaise.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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If you want to stay in Meribel then to me, Motteret looks the better bet - ski in/out.
But having stayed in Courchevel and skied the 3V, I would stay in Courchevel - the snow is better. For 2nd week skiers, Courchevel is by far the easier area to ski.
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nforne,
we've done the 3V about 5 times now -
For access to all the valleys at this stage of your skiing career, then I agree Mottaret sounds about right. A reasonable night-life, but more geared to the "I'm here to ski, not stay out til 3am" brigade. Far better ski-in/out than the mush that epitimises the transition point at valley bottom in Meribel itself during the hotter days.
La Tania works when you are slightly more experienced, and you know the best routes across the Meribel valley to get to the 4th valley, & out the other side of Les Manures - La Masse etc. (my favourite 'challenging intermediate' 3V skiing) But you still have the whole of the Courcheval areas at your disposal. Nice.
Best beginner snow is, IMHO, on the Courcheval side of life (although I have friends who learnt at, and swear by, VT) , and you can find untracked powder on gentle type of slopes, till late in the afteroon out towards 1600. A good place to learn about the stuff!
But that's what works about being in the middle valley - you can choose which way to go, left , right, or up and down, without undue time pressure of getting home in the evening. So I think you'll be fine in the Meribel Area.
Whatever you chose, Have fun!
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You know it makes sense.
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Nforne, Personally, I would pick Val Thorens or Courchevel in the 3Vs - the snow is usually better. However, in late Jan / early Feb you're unlikely to have a snow problem in any of these resorts. Both VT and Courchevel have good easy slopes with plenty of interrmediate sopes to progress to and both have reasonable nightlife - Courchevel being more upmarket than VT on average. Meribel is probably the best looking of these resorts, with Courchevel second and VT third. (Les Menuires comes a distant last!)
I have stayed in Courchevel, Meribel/Mottaret and Val Thorens - and it's VT I keep going back to. Roll on November 22nd.......
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Nforne - by the way, in view of your fear of heights, avoid the "Trois Vallees 1" chairlift in VT - use the Plein Sud chairlift (similar routing) instead. I had never been scared on a chairlift until I got on that lift - and I gather it's not an uncommon reaction! Quite unlike any other chairlift I've ever been on.
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Poster: A snowHead
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| nforne wrote: |
It's only going to be our second ski trip and we're looking for somewhere to build up confidence on intermediate slopes. A big choice of runs would be nice too. Can you think of anywhere else that fits the bill?
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There is nowhere in the 3v's that gives an experienced skier a bigger choice of runs than Mottaret (just above Meribel itself). In the morning, u can be at the top of the Saulire, Courchevel's primary Peak, even before the inhabitants of Courchevel can and from that point alone, U have a choice of almost a dozen routes down. In the other direction U have Val-Thorens and below it, Les Menuires each with some fantastic skiing. Mottaret is definately the place to 'strike out' from in the 3v's if you're a skier who clocks up the km's.
However, the sides of the valley coming into Mottaret are fairly steep. Although they are marked as blue pistes, returning to base at the end of the day can be a little daunting as a few (fairly short) stretches of piste tend to be strewn with side slippers, snowploughers, general panickers and rather tired-ers.
It's not that the slope is so hard, it's just that it aint no "confidence booster" in your second week.
Given your particular level of experience, I would agree with those who have suggested that another base in the 3V's might be most suitable for u.
If u like trees, Courchevel is the one. Either 1850 or 1650.
Courch 1850 is the place for Firs and Furs. It's not cheap and it's recent popularity with the Russian super-rich means it's not going to be getting any cheaper. But the quality is there: pistes and lifts are expertly designed so that those who can afford to do nothing for themselves, don't even need to Pole a few feet to a lift entrance. Many signs are now in French, English, German and Russian!
Courch 1650 is more suited to the cost conscious: right on one end of the 3v domain it doesn't suffer from the through traffic that Mottaret/Meribel do. There are no particularly demanding pistes in 1650: rolling blues, a few interesting reds but for a second week I can't see u needing a lot more. Skiing from there to 1850 is a doddle and there's enough classic skiing to be done in the Courchevel domain alone to keep u busy for weeks.
If you're not fussed about trees and like high altitude, lunar style mountain scapes: Val Thorens is the business.
Val T itself has more than enough skiing available but if u include Les Menuires below it and St Martin below that, u might not need to ski the same piste twice all week! The altitude (it's the highest resort in Europe) means the snow quality is usually the best in the domain and with 5 lifts which take u above 3000m, it gives u access to a lot of good snow!
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FAQ
) a couple of nice bars aroundabout 1600 anyway- does Chez Kiki still exist? It's also a very short walk to the slopes and there's a regular free bus service taking you to the centre and the altiport.
