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Aiguille du Midi North Face by the Eugster Couloir

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Today Seb and I skied the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi by the Eugster couloir. First skied in June 1977 by Laurent Giacomini. It hasnt had any descents yet this year and didnt have any last year.


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 7-05-24 12:03; edited 2 times in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Hats off to you boys. That is someting I will never experience as a town boy stuck in the north of England!!


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Wed 11-05-05 19:10; edited 1 time in total
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Cool, much respect! Smile

Cheered me up to see someone doing some epic turns whilst I've been sat in a tedious meeting in London all day.

How long is the hike out at the bottom? And how do you know no one else has skiied it all season? I'm not doubting you, but curious to know if there's a book at the top or part way down like some summits have, do the lifties keep a record, or is it just a matter of record amongst the extreme skiiers in Cham.

BTW, this ice bollard you mention on your site, exactly how big does it have to be before you will trust your weight to it? Puzzled
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Steve Sparks,
Quote:

Cheered me up to see someone doing some epic turns whilst I've been sat in a tedious meeting in London all day.


Surely a hint of sarcasm there wink
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You guys are nuts - do your insurers know what you get up to?

Major respect.
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Steve Sparks, Ice bollards can be fairly small ie sub 2 feet. You could even drill a V thread (Abolokov anchor) which only needs one foot of good ice and is safe and quick to set up.

Snow bollards are less secure - make them much bigger and pad the rear with clothing and/or ice axes (can be retrieved if tied to one side of rope). Hope I never have to use one though Wink
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Steve Sparks wrote:
And how do you know no one else has skiied it all season?


It is pretty hard to ski one of the descents under the Midi cable car and no one notice it being done. It is actually pretty hard to ski any of the ‘big lines’ in this area and no one notice it. There are a crowd of people here who are continuously eyeing up these lines and waiting for them to get in condition and they will notice anyone else on them.

I have been looking at skiing off the north face of the midi for three years now and have been keeping a close eye on it, close enough to know that last year Seb skied the Mallory in terrible conditions and it was mostly side stepping down and lots of abseils. A few days after him Remy Lacluse (a guide) skied it with a client!! Again many rappels. They were the only descents last year, no one skied the Eugster. It might have got more descents if the Midi cable car hadn’t shut for a month due to them dropping the cable during maintenance.

The year before (2003) it was the hot hot summer and there was no where near enough snow on either line for them to be skied.

The year before that (2002) it was in poor condition. It still got one descent when Marco and Bertrand snowboarded the Mallory, they had to down climb large sections of it though as well as some rappels. I wasn’t keeping such a close eye on the Eugster that year, I don’t think anyone skied it but cant be sure.
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I skied with Remy Lecluse on an SCGB holiday in Chamonix in 1998 and he was by a distance the best skier I've ever seen. Someone said back then that he'd been the first guide to take a paying punter down the north face of the Midi, but gawd knows what kind of client it was, certainly no ordinary holiday skier like me...
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philingle, They must use those piste bashers with a winch attached on these pistes wink
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Chapeau!
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snoflake wrote:
Chapeau!
Shouldn't that be "Casque!" ? wink
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philingle wrote:
It hasnt had any descents yet this year and didnt have any last year.


You astonish me.

Great photos, btw.
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Brilliant! Keep posting whenever you do something like that - it's great to look at the photos. Very Happy
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PG, Why are you calling me a "helmet", is this a euphemism for something ruder Shocked snowHead wink
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simply humbling
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Phil,

all your descents posted on here this year have been stunning! Can you share your background, how you developed your skiing/mountaineering to be able to do this kind of thing?

I assume a fair bit of planning is called for?

Is there an "unofficial" club/get together in Chamonix where these things are discussed and possibilities uncovered, this years routes analysed??

It's amazing to see, please keep posting!

regards,

greg
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Phil,

When I am a grown up I want to be 1/4 the skier you are!

Wow!
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You are right about a fair bit of planning. Lots of these lines are only briefly in condition every year if at all, you have to keep watching them. You also keep up to date on what other lines have been skied so you can compare altitude and aspect to get ideas of the snow condition on the line you want to ski. And ski easily accessible slopes like the Rond and Cosmique to keep an idea of the snow conditions.

There is a bar in town where most of the participants go regularly. You only need to head in there and grab a few beers and chat to a few people and you will know who has skied what recently and what condition it was in. you hear what people are thinking of skiing and what everyone thinks might come into condition soon.


Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Tue 7-05-24 12:04; edited 1 time in total
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thanks for that Phil, very informative! Keep skiing those lines! How long into spring/summer are skiing lines still possible?
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bump! this is such a good TR!!!
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skiking4, thanx for digging this out of the archives...philingle, nice stoke..ballsy line..last 2 pics especially make my wee wee tingle ...........


okbye
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philingle, Great info and pics as usual fella, pure inspiration. I'm still keeping my eye on some much smaller and rather less steep gullies in North Wales.... where's all the old style snow gone? Laughing
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
poo-poo!!! As someone who has been up the Aiguille Du Midi, you must be mad Wink
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Wow! Respect.
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This line has been skied a lot this year. About 2 weeks ago it was skied by sixteen different people in a 2 day period.

The Mallory was skied in November last year by one of the crazy Swedes in town.
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Sorry to resurrect this thread yet again but I've just found a video of a descent of the Mallory Eugster Couloir by Santi Padrós and Giacomo Schenardi on 25 April this year (in HD too!):


http://youtube.com/v/AuQTXFc4bY8

Respect!!!
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Amazing......

Silly question - how do you get back your rope when you're descending like that - shows my ignorance!!!
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Look carefully and you'll see it's always TWO pieces of rope. Or, more precisely, two pieces tied together or one in a long loop. At the top you put them round a snow bollard or through a piece of 'tat' that you leave behind. When all are safely down you just pull on one end - and hope it doesn't get stuck.
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You know it makes sense.
Great video. Shocked
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Holy Cow! Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Great video! I wish I had the balls (and skiing ability) to do that!

There were a couple of French guys setting off yesterday at around 10.30am and there were already 3 or 4 tracks that you could see on the way up in the cable car.

This is the view from the arrete. Looks very tempting but somewhat scary!!!



Are any of the other couloirs skied?

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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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altis wrote:
Sorry to resurrect this thread yet again but I've just found a video of a descent of the Mallory Eugster Couloir by Santi Padrós and Giacomo Schenardi on 25 April this year (in HD too!):


http://youtube.com/v/AuQTXFc4bY8

Respect!!!


Shocked
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bobinch, There's 3 main lines skied on the north face - the Eugster, the Mallory-Porter, and the North Face of the Col du Plan (roughly #2 on your pic). Col du Plan was skied lots about 10 days/2 weeks ago - not sure if its still in good nick. Eugster has been getting skied regularly for last 2 weeks generally in good nick, though mates of mine had a 5 hour epic in there a week ago on rather firm snow... (hoping to sneak in a run if I can get away from commitments here), Mallory has also been getting skied in last 2 weeks..shares the start of the Eugster then stays skiers right basically under the midi cables...
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PS a line has been skied down beside the Frendo Spur (Tardivel?) - #6 on the map, not sure if its been repeated...rather steep..
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altis, thanks for that - thicko moment over!
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Thanks offpisteskiing. Looking at the gradient and rocks I assume the engagement on these routes is extremely serious - you fall, you die?

I love the idea of the challenge of doing a route like the Mallory/Eugster but (don't have the ability) and even if I did, I am not sure I could ever deal with that risk level.

How do you handle this risk in your head?

When I get into situations where a fall becomes very serious (not usually on purpose!) I have to fight myself to stop it freaking me out with the associated negative impact this has on my ability to get down.

You must have serious belief in your ability but also the ability to channel out the unpredictables, like catching an edge on a hidden rock, or debris taking you out from above?


Last edited by You'll need to Register first of course. on Sun 10-05-09 11:22; edited 1 time in total
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Quote:

Looks very tempting

not to me it doesn't. There aren't too many skiers who could sensibly head over that edge. Great to watch, though - I'd love to be in that cable car watching someone coming down.
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Shocked must be mad. Respect
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Staggering, that link of altis's makes it much clearer what this really entails.. I found this one (the Mallory)
http://youtube.com/v/mSEmYkirBoE&feature=related even more impressive though - much more linking turns on what looks to me equally (or even more) committing terrain. I would love to do something like this - but a few more years' practice required (before I have to fact the fact that I'm not up to it) I feel Wink .
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GrahamN, totally, staggeringly scary.
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