 Poster: A snowHead
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I have just got myself a used set of skis. (Atomic Beta-ride) Unfortunately, one of the binding screws has stripped it's hole in the ski. Also, the bindings (salomon 700) will not quite fit my boots (size 9) on full adjustment. I am hoping that I can just move the front binding forward about one centimeter to allow my boot to fit, and re-drill the screw holes to secure the binding properly.
I would appreciate any advice/tips on this and whether what I am doing will be ok...there are no ski shops even close to where I live and i'm pretty confident I can drill the holes...
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Okay, here goes:
Allow yourself plenty of time to do this. It's very easy to make a complete mess of things and then you'll just have to ditch your new purchase - or worse, you'll seriously injure yourself.
If possible, practice on an old pair of skis first - or at least a lump of timber.
Get yourself the right tools. A pillar drill will help to get the holes vertical but the right drill bit is a must. Check the printing on the skis to see if there are any recommendations. Otherwise scour the web till you are sure. You'll also need a #3 Pozidrive screwdriver and a paper template for your binding. Try here:
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153971
There will be a mark at the bottom of your boot, somewhere near the middle, and, in an ideal world, this should line up with a similar mark on your skis. If you mount it perfectly then your new holes may well end up too close (< 1cm) from your old ones. So you'll have to take a view as to which part(s) of the binding to move.
Others may disagree but I'd be inclined to remove both parts of the binding anyway to make the job easier.
First put some masking tape down the middle of the skis and then mark on it a long centreline. You may find it useful to wrap a strip of paper round the ski, pressing it tightly round the edges. Then fold the paper in half to find the middle.
Line up the paper template with the centreline down the ski and the centre mark across the ski. Check if your holes are going to be too close and adjust fore/aft accordingly. Tape down the template, centre punch the holes and drill CAREFULLY.
Mix up some Araldite and pop it in the holes with a cocktail stick. Make sure you fill up the old holes well to keep them watertight. Then screw down the bindings firmly but beware of stripping the screws.
When all is set you'll need to set up the DIN release (fore and aft), the toe height and the heel position. All these need to be done carefully and accurately else you risk busting your knees. Details of the settings available here:
http://www.ian-staniforth.org.uk/sections/tech/manual.pdf
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Or just take 'em to a shop and, for a few quid, let someone else worry about all that.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You don't need a paper template when the ski has already been drilled for the binding that's gonna be re-used - just measure off the existing holes, it ain't rocket science. Just moving the toe piece a cm is fine, especially as the BCL mark on the Beta's is a tad rearward for most folks. The old holes should be plugged with plastic plugs (if you email me an address I'll post you some) which are then trimmed off flush with a chisel. The plugs & the binding screws should be glued with a waterproof/flexible wood glue (Evostick in the blue bottle is ideal). Araldite is not required as the glue is only for lubing the self-tapping binding screws/to seal against water ingress & not to bond the screws in. A pucka 3.6 x 9 binding drill bit is ideal but you can use a sharp 5/32 bit to a depth of 9mm. After setting the DINS make sure the forward pressure adjustment is also correct (use the search function & my username for forward pressure info).
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Thanks very much for the useful info!
I have decided to move the front bindings only and need to go about 12mm forward. I have worked out that this will bring the centre mark of my boots about 8mm forward of the mark in my skis...is that gonna be ok do you think?
Despite being just over 10 years old, the bindings look very clean and I was told that the skis have only been used about 6 times in their ten years. I have also read that most ski shops refuse to remount bindings over about 5 years old, but I'm happy to use them.
The plastic base part of the binding will make an excellent template to mark the new holes and being a builder I have a pillar drill handy to make the holes. Just off to find a 3.6mm drill bit.
Would car body filler be ok to use to plug the old holes, instead of plastic plugs?
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| xt600 wrote: |
| Would car body filler be ok to use to plug the old holes, instead of plastic plugs? |
Why not use the proper plugs ? spyderjon has offered to send you some, I got a handful of them from Snow & Rock for £1 the last time I needed some.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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midgetbiker, if the screws torque up ok just use the same holes but if not then kiwi1's solution is fine although because I've got all the helicoil gear I prefer that solution. My next available lesson slots are now in April & yes I'm still in fit-out but business is so poor I could soon be doing my tuning stuff full time.
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| rjs wrote: |
| xt600 wrote: |
| Would car body filler be ok to use to plug the old holes, instead of plastic plugs? |
Why not use the proper plugs ? spyderjon has offered to send you some, I got a handful of them from Snow & Rock for £1 the last time I needed some. |
Yes, a very kind offer, but if car body filler will do the job (i have plenty of it) then i won't have to put Spyderjon to any trouble....his advice is much appreciated 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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spyderjon, business poor..............I don't know what you mean 
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still lots more time for skiing, should get 50days in this year 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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 have a ski shop with some form of experience mount your skis bro! If something happens and the binding doesnt function as intended your screwed. If a certified technician mounts your bindings and something happens then you have some recourse. It should also be noted that they will use a gig to mount the ski. This will ensure that the binding is centered.....
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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I did this today. First, I drilled the front screw which was easy because there is a centerline already marked on the ski. 3.5mm drill bit in the pillar drill set to 9mm depth. After fitting this screw, I then marked the other two with a center punch through the binding, and drilled these. I screwed the bindings back down using some waterproof pva on the threads. I filled the old screwholes with a waterproof body filler.
The end result (because I only moved the front bindings) means that with my boots fitted to the skis, the centerline mark on my boots is 8-10mm forward of the line on the actual skis.
Does anyone know if this will be a 'noticeable' amount when I come to use the skis?
Thanks...
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