 Poster: A snowHead
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Mayrhofen 3rd-10th Jan 09
Hotel: Alpenhof Krystall, HB.
Very efficient, clean and tidy. Traditional Tyrolean hotel, larger than average rooms with plenty of storage. Superb “wellness” facilities including sauna, steam room and relaxation lounge all included in the price. Food was typical Austrian fayre, well prepared. Breakfast a little “samey” – traditional European. The service was good and friendly. Bedrooms/bathroom cleaned on a daily basis, bed made and towels replaced. Additional towels provided for the sauna.
Breakfast served from 7am, which was excellent for those wishing to get to the lifts before the masses decend on the Penkenbahn lift!! More on that later.
Large boot/ski room in basement with boot heaters. External access to avoid trapesing through reception. Slight question mark over security as door remained open throughout the day. We heard two reports of two pairs of boots going astray.
The hotel is at the lower end of town in a quieter area, though regular buses stopped outside for transport to and fro from lifts. A 10 minute walk provided access to the livelier parts of Mayrhofen. The train and bus station was a 5 minute walk away – ideal for getting to other resorts covered in the Zillertal region.
Overall, the Krystall is a quiet hotel that would suit families and those who aren’t fussed too much about the livelier aspects of Mayrhofen. The temperature inside was on the warm side, which we found brought on bouts of tiredness - possibly deliberate as there were no guests in the bar/communal area beyond 9pm.!!
Holiday Company TO: Neilson
First time used Neilson. The reps were quite knowledgeable, but based at the Sports Lounge up near the Penkenbahn lift, so quite a hike to find them. Other than the first evening, we didn’t see them at the Krystall at all during our stay – odd when there were 4 reps covering our week there. That said, other than using TOs to provide the basic holiday, we tend to do everything else ourselves, so this was never an issue, though others in the hotel found it a little frustrating getting information for trips etc. The coaches for the transfer were on the luxurious side, comfortable and very efficient.
Airport: Innsbruck
One of the best airport experiences I’ve ever had! On the outward journey, we were off the plane, transported to the terminal, through passport control, collected baggage and on the coach within 30 minutes! If that’s typical, then the Austrians are to be applauded for a very well-run airport! The transfer took 75 minutes. We were on resort by 1.00pm, allowing plenty of time to check in the Krystall, unpack and head in to town to on-hire our gear and grab lunch.
Ski Hire: Luggi’s Ski Hire http://www.rentski.info/indexuk.htm
I found Luggi’s from a recommendation on Trip Advisor and a link via the official Mayrhofen website. Whilst their range and volume of equipment is more limited than many of the other hire places, the equipment was very well looked after and has skis for all abilities with advice on the best type/length according to one’s requirements. I went for a technical race carver at the top of the range, requesting 165cm against the recommendation to drop to 160cm (I’m 178cm). Sure enough, I was back the next day to take the recommendation. The Blizzards are an Austrian ski designed at the top end of the range for racing. The longer ski just took too much pressure to complete carved turns consistently. The shorter version was excellent – super grippy and assured even at fairly high speeds. I did a few GS courses around the resort including a very rutted and frozen run. The skis never let me down, even though the legs eventually did!!
The prices were up to 25% less than the others I looked at. When I went to book on-line prior to the trip, the ordering platform facility was full, but a call to Luggi enabled me to reserve our equipment at the reduced on-line rate and pay on the day hire commenced.
Luggi provided a wealth of local, useful information. He spoke excellent English (he regularly visits the UK to stay with his son who is a director of a major South West radio station). I couldn’t recommend them highly enough, hence a link to their website. Owing to their New Year, Mayrhofen was awash with Russians which Luggi advised would mean a good hour’s queue for the Penkenbahn lift. He suggested we walk to the station (5 minutes), and take the Green Line bus to Tux-Voderslanersbach, a 15 minute coach journey. The Rastkogelbahn lift was queue-free and provided access to some great blue and red runs to get the ski legs back. The reverse journey also eliminates the shoving hordes at the end of the day.
We were also given the times for taking the train to Zell am Ziller and recommended to a piste side restaurant tucked away in a “corner”. More excellent advice from Luggi.
Their hire shop is located roughly halfway up the main drag in Mayrhofen on the right hand side, tucked away in a side street. There are usually flags on the high street indicating their presence.
Ski Area: Penken and Ahorn
Two separate areas so I’ll deal with Ahorn first. Served by Austria’s largest cable car lifting passengers to an excellent beginners area comprising wide blue pistes, 3 restaurants and the White Lounge – an igloo complex with bar/restaurant and a few rooms for overnighting should one wish the experience. Ahorn also has a short red for advancing on to.
There is also a stunning red (no.5) down to the resort providing 1350m of vertical descent  . The run provides some steep, narrow, open, icy, cruisy sections that run through the trees to challenge quite a range of technical skills. I loved it – reminiscent of the La Rosiere red down to Ecudets for those that know it.
Someone mentioned that it’s 5km long. I’m not so sure, but it is certainly a leg burner that’ll leave a smile  on the face and also give a few marvelous glimpses of the Mayrhofen valley during the run. Everyone I saw and spoke to on the way down was grinning. Because the run departs from what is really a beginners area, it was never very busy – far too demanding for anyone other than a confident skier with a reasonable skill set IMHO 
Penken: the main distribution point for the Mayrhofen area. Well linked for access to Eggalm, Rastkogel and Horberg, the main ranges providing c160km of pisted runs. The mainly South facing runs around Penken provide some fast cruisy reds and a few blues which tend to attract most of the ski schools. Consequently, one has to approach them with some caution and they get very chopped up by mid-afternoon. I tried a few of the blues, but actually found them harder than the reds in places owing to their narrow track-like aspects and the volume of beginners trying to negotiate less steep ways down the mountain.
To get the best of the pistes around Penken, I’d recommend them for the first hour of the day. With the sun out and much less traffic, I enjoyed one really satisfying morning blasting around and fine tuning my technique. Horberg plays host to a long, straight and steep black (no 17) which was fun and a fabulous red (no 27) and again recommended by Luggi. There’s another blue which is quite long, but again, much is fairly narrow track.
To avoid the shoving (and moaning  ) queues at the end of the day either take the Penkenbahn about an hour before the mountain closes, head for the Pilsner Bar (loud n lively  ) to let the queues subside, or take the Horberbahn lift or Finkenberg Almbahn lift and catch a bus.
The Harakiri: Austria’s steepest pisted run  . The steep section (about 100m) requires the piste basher to be lowered on a cable owing to the angle of the run . In a conversation with Luggi, he absolutely wished the run was removed, claiming that it was merely a gimmick and one that accounted for many accidents, some quite nasty. The week before we arrived, a German official from one of Germany’s local government regions lost control at speed, took an uphill run off to avoid completing the piste and ran into a mother of 4 children killing her outright. 
I decided against skiing the run, although not out of a concern about a lack of ability. It just seemed sensible. My son (16) and his mate, who we took with us, did the run twice without incident, though they saw quite a few people who went down not on their skis
Zell am Ziller: As mentioned, easy to get to by train in 15 minutes. The train leaves Mayrhofen at 35 minutes past the hours of 8, 9 and 10. A Red Line bus transports to and from the station/ski lift. This is a terrific area of mostly motorway pistes that are quieter, in great nick (at the moment) and in the sunshine from about 10am at this time of year. I think the variety and terrain is better than those above Mayrhofen. Speedsters who love carving down the mountain will not be disappointed  . Well worth a day or two IMHO.
OK, the evenings: Mayrofen is a lively town and I’m getting on too much now to burn both ends of the candle for a whole week (get the violins out!  ). Mo’s Bar in the main street is fun but not too hectic unless there’s a band playing. Liked this place for an après beer or three, or for a nightcap. The Sports Lounge plays host to Brian Cristopher 6 nights a week. A guitar playing singer, Brian (a maths teacher) got roped into playing a session at the Sports Lounge 15 years ago. He was such a success that he was booked for the week whilst on a ski trip holiday. Since then he has played a 3 hour set, 6-days a week for the entire season every year.
The guy is a real entertainer and a mesmorising guitarist. The Sports Lounge is on the main drag 50 or so metres from the Penken Lift and the Ice Bar, another well-known après ski destination. Don’t miss out on a lively evening! Recommended!
We did look in on Scotland Yard, but it was rammed so decided against staying. Sounded and looked fun, but on that particular night we were looking for something a little less frenetic where conversation could be conducted in decibels that wouldn’t threaten the old hearing .
Overall: I like Mayrhofen. There is some excellent skiing, though I think it would suit intermediates as opposed to absolute beginners or off-piste powder hounds (all the off-piste was tracked out) or the advanced. Although there are beginner areas and a few easy blues, I think the progression to most of the reds presents quite a jump in technical requirement and ability. Certainly I saw quite a few people skiing not entirely in control and spoke to quite a few beginners/early intermediates who found the terrain challenging to put it mildly.
On the other side, because of the mostly red nature of the pistes, I don’t think I’ve seen so many good intermediates carving around the mountain.
Beginners, head to Ahorn – less queues and sunshine kissed blue runs that provide confidence-building pistes and a good, short red to hone the skills before tackling some of the other terrain. Obviously I didn’t ski all 160kms of piste, so this is only my general view and I daresay others may have differing opinions.
The town is clean and everything seems very efficient. The uplift is insufficient from the centre of Mayrhofen though, having spoken to a local instructor, the lift company is 2 years into a 5 year contract to complete a second lift and piste down to the town. The project will take 2 years to complete, so will have to start next year to fulfill the contract. Given the economic situation, the completion of the project is now perhaps in a little doubt. That it is needed is beyond question in my view.
Transfers are quick and easy from Innsbruck.
I’d certainly go back, though probably for a weekend having stayed there for a week. So little time and so much more to see.
Hope this helps some of you considering Mayrhofen
Mark
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Alastair Pink, thanks. Good to hear another positive about Luggi's - he really seems to care about what they do and is a font of useful knowledge.
I did read about Kaltenbach and given that the train is free with the lift pass, should have gone. Heh ho - something to look forward to if we go again
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| Chasseur wrote: |
| The week before we arrived, a German official from one of Germany’s local government regions lost control at speed, took an uphill run off to avoid completing the piste and ran into a mother of 4 children killing her outright. |
Eerily similar to this... http://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=46958
Tip... avoid German politicians
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Chasseur, good write up. I like Mayrhofen and Zell am Ziller, and can't wait to go back (hopefully do a weekend in mid-Feb  ).
Do you know if the new/second lift is open from the Zell am Ziller carparks up to the mid station? I guess it must be a bit further along the road from the ski stores and carparks?
Alastair Pink, am I right in thinking that the Kaltenbach lift is right near the train station (unlike Mayrhofen and Zell am Ziller) ? I may try that next time if there's a decent carpark and rental shop.
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| andy wrote: |
Chasseur, good write up. I like Mayrhofen and Zell am Ziller, and can't wait to go back (hopefully do a weekend in mid-Feb ).
Do you know if the new/second lift is open from the Zell am Ziller carparks up to the mid station? I guess it must be a bit further along the road from the ski stores and carparks?
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According to their website it is. And yes, it is further left (when looking towards the mountain). It looks from the piste map like it only goes to the mid-station though, which won't be an awful lot of use if the original lift is crowded, unless you take the chair up over the black from there.
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Alastair Pink, am I right in thinking that the Kaltenbach lift is right near the train station (unlike Mayrhofen and Zell am Ziller) ? I may try that next time if there's a decent carpark and rental shop. |
Yes, it is about 250m from the train station to the gondolas in Kaltenbach. Basically just across the car park.
There is a good big free car park, with a free multi story just a few yards further if that is full. And the shop has large branches at both the top and bottom of the gondola.
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Mayrhofen: Additional
Ski School: The SO elected to book a 2hr 1:1 lesson via Luggi's which cost Euro 94. Prices, comparison-wise, went up to Euro 119 for a similar instruction period. The feedback was excellent.
Parapenting: A group from our hotel booked at Euro 75/head plus an additional Euro 20 for photos and a short video during the descent. This was from the Penken area and was commented upon very positively.
Beer: Seemed to be Euro 3.30 to 4 for a large beer (0.5l) in most places (or at least those we went to).
Lumumba (hot chocolate + rum): A fav of the SO and about Euro 2.60
Lunch: Mostly we avoided the ususal mountainside places and opted to drop into town. Opposite the Penkenbahn lift is a shop specialising in hot rolls for about Euro 2. A little further up the main street, on the left hand side is a small eatin/take out place called UFO offering pizza slices from Euro 3 or excellent wrapped kebabs for Euro 5 - very tasty and filling! It opens from 1pm. Lunch in the Ahorn area seemed to be from Euro 5 to 9.
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My first or second ski holiday was in Mayerhofen in 1987. We didn't stay at the Alpen Krystall, but think we spent a night there on the sauce. The guy that used to own it and maybe still does was an Austrian Pop star. he could drink, we shambled out of there about 5.30 in the morning.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Forgt to say that after a couple of days on the Penken and Ahorn, we spent the rest of the holiday on the Hintertux Glacier at the top of the valley. 30 minute bus ride and big bowl, motorway skiing at 4,000m and all on the one pass...
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| macwad wrote: |
| My first or second ski holiday was in Mayerhofen in 1987. We didn't stay at the Alpen Krystall, but think we spent a night there on the sauce. The guy that used to own it and maybe still does was an Austrian Pop star. he could drink, we shambled out of there about 5.30 in the morning. |
Trust me, the guy either died or sold it.....perhaps died, the place was like a morgue after 8.30/9.00 . It's the family Bidner who run it now.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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thanks for the info . off to mayrhofen in 2 weeks praying for more snow .
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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tim000, well according to the locals, it should arrive end this/early next week. There's still plenty there though, unless you're after some off-piste. Have a great time
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it looks like it snowed there yesterday by looking at the webcams . this will be my third time in mayrhofen . first went about 6 years ago and i remember a singer/guitarist in the strass(they called it the speak easy bar then) . have to agree , if it,s the same bloke he was bloody brilliant . was,nt there 3 years ago though , maybe he had a week off . cheer , tim .
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You know it makes sense.
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tim000, I didn't catch whether the guy (Brian Cristopher) has always played at the same spot to be honest. The Sports Lounge is part of the Strass Hotel. Anyway, he was there from about 9pm, although things don't tend to liven up until around 10. Certainly sounds as though it's the same guy.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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thats right , the first time i went the bar was called the speak easy and the night club was called the arena with the garage bar down stairs . 3 years ago the bar was called the sports bar and the club was called the speak easy arena . dont know why the changed . last time there the sports bar was very quiet and had a big tv screen showing sport(maybe that why they called it the sports bar ) were staying in the pramstraller , pretty handy for the train station .
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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we,re staying in the guest house , but there is also a pramstraller hotel . we,re across the road from the church above a tabac / shop on the right as you walk up the main street . only 2 weeks to go now , hope it snows next week to freshen thing up a bit . went to soll last year and tried off piste for the first time . knee deep in powder , brilliant. any good areas in the penken for off piste ? also do you know how much they charge for a snowboard service in resort . cheers for all the info , tim .
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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tim000, most of the easily accessible off-piste was totally tracked out and without any recent, decent snowfall, that won't have improved. If the projected snow falls this weekend/early next, things may well improve hopefully. Eggalm (up from Tux Lanersbach and a 15 minute bus trip from the station) might be worth having a look at. There were also off-piste opportunities at Zell am Ziller, though again I suspect new snow will by now be required.
Maybe other Mayrhofen 'experts' might have more to offer.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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We were up on the glacier over new year and found some off-piste that wasn't too difficult. If you go up to the highest point, taking a drag lift for the last bit, head off to the right as you're coming down and you head towards an interesting gully. I've got a picture put don't know how to post here. Also, on the way down to the top of the lowest gondola there are bits of off-piste between the pistes. Hardly powdery snow but much better than the icy pistes over new year. The green line buses will take you from Mayrhofen to the glacier for free as part of the lift pass and the gondolas on the glacier are really efficient.
The only decent bit of off-piste we found at Penken was near red 19? at Horberg, where the two lifts converge. There was also some interesting off-piste at Rastkogl. If you take the lift up to the highest point you'll see it on the left near the top.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Kelskii, might that be red 7 or 27 from Horberg, or possibly red 16 from top of the Wanglespitz chair down towards the valley below Horberg? Just been looking at the piste map and couldn't see red 19. That said, there were a few runs that weren't marked on the piste map, and one or two blues on the map that were actually red on the slopes.....much to the chagrin of the SO who had an epi at me on the first day
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Chasseur, 27 rings a bell, at the place of employment now without my piste map. Pretty sure it was on the map. I just remember it as being the run on the far edge of the skiing area. It didn't lead to any other chairs, all you could do was ski down to the chair that served it and come back up again, if that makes it any clearer. Blues that are actually red just add to the fun, colour blind skiers must have a ball.
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Forgot to add we went on a trip to the Ziller Beer Factory.
Well worth a look.
I'm now online searching for Ziller beer.
How sad. lol
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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There is off piste around the Penken area,
Under the Tux 150 cable car is do-able in good conditions, but be very careful if the conditions are even slightly avalanche prone, or if you are not a very good boarder / skier. It is a bit easier and safer behind the chairlifts at the top after the Tux 150 cable car where you come back out into the 'bowl'
My favourite off piste runs were from the very top of the Rastkogel area, you do need good snow and I only managed it one season, but you basically ski towards Eggalm on the blues but duck under the fence on the left, under the heated chair lift and carry on down, it is a leap of faith as you can't see where you're heading, but eventually you have to cross a tree trunk bridge over a stream, skate push a while on a sort of walkway, before coming down under the Rastkogel gondola.
The season after people couldn't believe it was ever skiable due to the lack of snow and wind.
The best off piste in the area for me is definately at Kaltenbach and Hochfugen though, especially the bit in between. The little barn roof tops make challenging jumps! as does the toboggan track! Don't miss the off piste run back to the bottom of the single man chairlift in good snow, I forget the lift name, but it is in between Mayrhofen and Zell Am Ziller. A very underskied area because of the 35min journey up on the single chair, where slightly better lifts await you. Always fresh tracks there.
A great Valley when you get to know it, and a different area every day in a weeks holiday if you really wanted to 
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Interesting report. But if the lifts, and some of the pistes, are crowded in this dead-rock-bottom low season week, what are they like at New Year or Fasching?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Chasseur, at such times I just switch to "selective hearing" mode in those circumstances, normally ensures an enjoyable day. Red 27 is one of the best runs in the Penken area but was getting very busy at times during the new year week. pam w, can be busy at new year etc. but that's when sensible snowheads take the advice of Andy C, and explore other parts of the valley that are usually quieter than painful penken.
I'm part of the Zillertal beer quality control team too. I'd always check on the quality of the stuff in scotland yard before the place got too busy and full of those young people with long greasy hair who insist on wearing woolly hats indoors. Pleased to report that standards are being maintained.
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You know it makes sense.
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| Andy C wrote: |
The best off piste in the area for me is definately at Kaltenbach and Hochfugen though, especially the bit in between. The little barn roof tops make challenging jumps! as does the toboggan track! Don't miss the off piste run back to the bottom of the single man chairlift in good snow, I forget the lift name, but it is in between Mayrhofen and Zell Am Ziller. A very underskied area because of the 35min journey up on the single chair, where slightly better lifts await you. Always fresh tracks there.
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Gerlossteinwand I think is where you mean - a one man chair goes up from Ramsau, although there is a cable car up the other side of he hill. But it is a small and isolated area, so as you say, it won't get much traffic.
There was also what looked like some pretty good off-piste down the "back" side of the Zell face of the Arena - Either above piste 10 or above 11.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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looks like their have a good dump of snow , hope it carries on for another 10 day .
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FAQ
)
. just off to the pub for some training , and to meet my best mate who has just got back from st anton today . i wont mention my hol in 2 weeks though . 