 Poster: A snowHead
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Off there in 10 days, Hotel is near the Gonergrat train station. First time to Switzerland and celebrating our 10th Wedding Anniversary. So tell me what you know.......
Bars etc for apres and a little one or two after evening meal.
Lunch stops - not full on more snacky.
Runs / areas - favourites etc ( both good intermediates - 1 skier, 1 boarder).
Best way of getting / skiing to and from Cervinia - time frames - ie you need to have left the bottom of Cervinia by ... x pm.
Any other tips and hints greatly appreciated 
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Can't help you with all that stuff above, but it's right next to a mountain called the Matterhorn:
The Matterhorn (German) or Cervino (Italian), (French: Mont Cervin or Le Cervin) is perhaps the most familiar mountain in the European Alps. On the border between Switzerland and Italy, it towers over the Swiss village of Zermatt and the Italian village Breuil-Cervinia in the Val Tournanche. The mountain derives its name from the German words Matte, meaning meadow, and Horn, which means peak.[2]
The Matterhorn has four faces, facing the four compass points, the north face overlooking the Zmutt Valley, the south face Breuil-Cervinia, the east and west faces looking towards the Gornergrat and the Dent d'Hérens, respectively, with the north and south faces meeting to form a short east-west summit ridge. The faces are steep, and only small patches of snow and ice cling to them; regular avalanches send the snow down to accumulate on the glaciers at the base of each face. The Hörnli ridge of the northeast (in the center of the view from Zermatt) is the usual climbing route.
Hope that helps.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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shoogly, ta for the info - the Matterhorn and the scenery are why we chose this resort.
red 27, brilliant - just what I needed to know - thanks. I hope the link isn't closed much while we are there as we are looking forward very much to skiing the "other side"
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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whoops
I quote from the gang who've just got back
| Scouse phil wrote: |
I think we can say we had a good time skidding – despite Zermatt!!!
The chalet was v good, well located and we had good food (not sure Rach will absolutely agree!). Our chalet maid was a keen 18 year old (may be not so keen on cleaning!) who was very posh and off to Cambridge in Sept.
We had snow and high winds for a few days which restricted us to about a quarter of the whole area. Then they opened some lifts, then closed them again then opened them then……. You get the idea!! Still we got to ski quite nice powder and have some good fun. After the snow, the weather brightened and the piste skiing was lovely – where the snow hadn’t been blown into Italy!
Zermatt seems to be surviving on the fact it’s got a big pointy rock at the end of the valley. Lot’s of old, posh people skiing an hour a day and then having a 4 hour lunch. The lift system is crap, poorly connected and it takes an age to get up the mountain – almost 2 hours some days from leaving the chalet to having skis hit snow!!!!
Still the banter was good, we drank beer, discovered Hitchmough’s can’t play draughts slagged off Zermatt and generally had a fine old time.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Hmmm... my experience is the polar opposite of Scouse Phil's. It can take a long time sometimes to get on the slopes but I think the skiing in general is well worth it. I thought the lift system was pretty good too but then again I strangely enjoyed the long T-Bar ride to the Cervinia border so maybe I ain't the one to comment on the lifts.
The best bar for apres ski is on the trail into the town, the Hennu Stall, really good lively friendly bar that often has live music. I'm not sure whether that run would still have enough snow by now to get there? Anyone know? I imagine it will and would def recommend going there.
There was a small little pub that I can't quite remember the name of that I enjoyed. Was in the centre of Zermatt off a side street next to the big Mont Cervin hotel. Also Grampy's was ok, not great but ok and the one directly opposite which I think is under Hotel Post possibly, was also good.
The Hennu Stall was the best though but if you stay there more then a couple of hours drinking then you find the last bit of the run into town a lot more taxing than it is!
Any other tips... er.. avoid the Taxi's.. get up and out early... be prepared for jaw dropping when the Matterhorn comes into view.. Oh and for resteraunts, the Mont Cervin has a very nice but expensive place. I found one across the road from there to be particularly good in terms of quality of food and price. Again, can't remember the name though but it was directly opposite.
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trisco, thanks.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Got to agree with trisco and with the Furi to Gornerat lift, the three areas are far better connected than they used to be. You can now ski in all three areas without taking a bus. The wind can affect the upper slopes but isn't this normal in mountains?
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Elsie's bar in the main street - church end is worth going to for a glass of bubbly in the evening. And you have to have lunch at Chez Vroni on the mountain. It is fantastic - ski hard in the morning and have a late lunch there. Zermatt is famous for its mountain restaurants. On the way home you should go to Zum Zee for a drink - wonderful atmosphere and also excellent food. You need to book at Chez Vroni and you can get a list of mountain restaurants from the Zermatt tourist office website. Have a wonderful week and the sales should be starting too!!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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skilegs wrote
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the sales should be starting too!!
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I was hoping for this but haven't told OH yet - might be perusing for an anniversary present
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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minx,
First thing Zermatt has its own tv channel which is on in hotels and apartments all over the resort. Watch it at breakfast as it will give you the forecasts and tell you which lifts/runs are open. nbt's mate might have benefited!
Don’t know if you hire skis but if so hire from Flex Rent opposite the Sunnega base station or at the Matterhorn base station. They are very good, you can swap and change kit as much as you like, but the best bit is that you can drop your skis and boots off with them at either shop at the end of the day, tell them where you’ll be starting from the next day and they move it for you overnight to collect in the morning. Fantastic service! Works really well if you end up at the Matterhorn base and want to start next day at Sunnega, because you can then stroll leisurely into town(it’s a fair walk) without your skis and commence your après!
I would always recommend starting at Sunnega base station in the morning and skiing the area left to right, this probably comes from the time when it wasn’t connected well the other way. But from where you are staying which is fairly central in the village Sunnega is the fastest way up. The Gornergrat train is a beautiful way up but it does take a while, I reckon about 30-40 mins maybe but my hubby thinks about an hour! I think some trains stop at all the stations on the way up and some are express. Hubby is here saying it’s nice but you do it once then you go up Sunnega every morning. I would go up and ski Rothorn and Sunnega and then have lunch at one of the Findeln restaurants or go across maybe to Fluhalp for lunch, then I would ski Gornergrat and/or Matterhorn in the afternoon and finish off at the Hennustall which is on the run home from Furi and is fantastic, live music, great atmosphere! Fun skiing down after, we’ve done it in the dark but at least it’s quiet then and often there are taxis waiting at the bottom. If you are coming back down the Sunnega side the Olympia is a good place for après ski.
For drinks in town the North Wall and Papperla, very well known, busy, lively bars. There is a very little bar on a corner on the main street it’s lovely and quiet but still really relaxed. Can’t remember it’s name, but it’s tiny. Hotel Sonne bar is nice and civilised for a quiet drink a deux! Hotel Tschugge has a very unique restaurant, it’s carved into the stone of the hill. It’s quite romantic and the food is good, especially the steaks. And it’s not top dollar compared to some of Zermatt’s upmarket restaurants.
Re. mountain restaurants you can’t go to Zermatt and do a quicky lunch it’s not possible! There are several restaurants at Findeln just below Sunnega, it’s wise to book but you might be lucky if it’s just the two of you. Chez Vrony is the obvious one but the others are great and less well known and maybe a bit smaller and friendlier perhaps. Enzian, the Findlerhof by Franz and Heidi are great as is Adler, very good chicken. Paradies is good too. To be honest I never ate anything bad in Zermatt except at the self service at Riffelberg. The other good lunch spot is at Furi where there’s my favourite Simi (for hot stone specials) and then further down the Zum See, which does a cake bit like a vanilla slice/mille feuille it’s lovely!, and then Blatten.
If you have to do a quicky lunch then the main restaurant at Sunnega is ok, and the bar above it at Blauherd for a quick pizza is ok, the Pizzeria at Trockener Steg is good.
Re. Cervinia allow plenty of time and keep a very close eye on the weather. You don’t want to be stuck over there, it costs a bomb in a taxi to get back I believe. Eat at Chalet Etoile (great) or TukTuk (quick). Both at or just above Plan Maison. I love Cervinia. I love to come over from Zermatt and just rip it down to Plan Maison. I don’t know what it is about the place but the snow is always good, it’s usually sunny, the pistes are wide and easy peasy, it’s just a good place to have a blast! The T bars up are ok on a nice day, I don’t remember them being horrible – maybe got a hazy memory. But then I don’t like the top of the Matterhorn cable car, I always feel wonky up there walking through the tunnel to the other side and feel very much better for getting down to Plateau Rosa again. It’s a real shame they can’t make the top of the Furrgsattel chair link to Cervinia, the top of it is right on the border and it would be so convenient!
I really feel for nbt's mate, it sounds like he had a rotten week in a really great place, I can’t help thinking he missed something. Zermatt is just such a special place, the atmosphere is second to none, all right it’s by no means ski-convenient but somehow it doesn’t seem to matter there. My best trips have been there.
Have a wonderful time! If you PM me your address I will stick the resort guide in the post to you if you like, it’s got loads of useful info to have before you go or you can easily pick up an up to date one when you get there. Very envious wish I was off there! 
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You know it makes sense.
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sarah, thanks so much, a great post full of info. We can't wait to go and I think we'll love it.
Thank you for the offer of posting the resort guide, I'll pick an up to date one up when I get there now I know they do one.
mosh, thanks also for your info.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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I showed this thread to my mates - feedback edited to protect the innocent
| Rod the Boarder wrote: |
a lot of talk of long lunches and champagne... which comes back to the type of skier you are. and the fella that says we should have watched the tele to see which lifts are open: (a) the building we were in didn't have a TV aerial; and (b) we were leaving just after 8am to get to Furi (up one gondola) so all of the upper lifts would be shown as closed anyway. we'd have forgiven the arkward access and lift system if the skiing had been really good - but it wasn't. it would have lot more interesting bits with better snow coverage, but there wasn't - and I'm not quite sure how often you would get good enough coverage (given this is a "good" year).
the 2 hour trek to get on the slopes involved long wait for bus, long queue for gondola, finding out no lifts were going up from furi, queue to get back down from furi, queue to get back on bus to sunnegga (next to where we were staying!), queue to get on funicular, then another 2 lifts up before we actually got to ski anywhere.
all that talk is from skiers too - I'm not really amused when it comes to the third flat/uphill section in a red run...
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| Welsh Phil wrote: |
The other point about those lifts were that a lot of them a gondolas, trains, funnycolours and cable cars where you have to take your skis off so you feel less like you’re skiing than when you ride a chair. Also the cable cars would have been banned if we were cattle and Switzerland were part of the EU. I’ve never been so squashed and uncomfortable in a cable car!
The flat spots really were not fun for boarders or anybody not willing to tuck and shoosh for long distances. And the narrow reds really were long and not suitable for beginners or early intermediates.
I still had a bloody good time though. Not everything was a negative honest. There are just a lot better places to ski in my opinion.
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I had a great week there in January. The snow was fantastic and we had 5 blue sky days and 1 with heavy snowfall. On the day with heavy snow many of the lifts didn't open and by mid-afternoon little was open, on another day I think the Klein Matterhorn top section didn't open because of wind. However I enjoyed the skiing in all 3 areas, so much so I've booked to go back in February next year. One tip if going over to Cervinia use the civilised Swiss toilets first 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Sound advice. Do they still have squats in Cervinia? Using one while wearing ski boots ad salopettes is no mean feat.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I'm in Zermatt next week with a group of very good and keen young skiers and the Triftji bumps would be an excellent challenge for them - but they've gone from black to yellow.
What's the status of these yellow "itineraries"? I realise they are not groomed, but are they avalanche-controlled and patrolled like the normal runs, or should they be considered as true off piste?
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Triftji bumps are quite hard.
A question; I am going to Zermatt begining of May- I might ant to buy some skis i(ina sale) preferably Movement- Flame or Spark but without the Movement (VIST) bindings - any suggestions?
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I've skied Zermatt for three weeks now, most recently the last week of February. A few assorted thoughts for you:
- the lift system is now pretty good (miles better than a few years ago) as the various areas are now pretty well connected. There aren't usually any real lift queues (except for the Klein Matterhorn cable car), but there can be a very long wait for the free buses particularly at about 4.30 pm and 9 am. We gave in one morning and took a taxi, he charged 3 francs each for the 7 people he picked up at a bus stop. Although you are staying by the Gornegrat train station, once you've used the train once you'll give in and go from either Sunegga or Klein Matterhorn as the train is very very slow. The list system is now good enough that you don't need to go 'left to right' any more, once you are on the bus just go to either Sunegga or towards Schwarzsee, whatever you prefer.
- it really is expensive. The lift pass costs a fortune, but it's worth coughing up for the 'international' one otherwise you have to pre-plan your trips to Italy. Don't expect to buy anniversary presents or similar there, unless you are really rolling in it.
- the 'best' way to get to Cervinia is via the Klein Matterhorn gondola plus two cable cars. Best because it gets you highest, and the red run down from the very top is some of the most fun you can have while clothed on a piste. But if you do it at peak hours be prepared to wait up to an hour in the last lift queue. The T-bars are faster when you take the queue into account, but as others have said make sure you are well wrapped up. There are lots of signs in Cervinia telling you what time you need to leave by. Don't get stuck there - it's cheaper to find a hotel than get a taxi back, it's about a 4 hour drive. But once the link is open they will do their absolute best not to close it later in the day. The '7' run from the Klein Matterhorn down to Cervinia is supposed to be 16 km... try and do it without stopping. You can also ski all the way down from Klein Matterhorn (3883) to Zermatt (1620) without needing a lift.
- the skiing in Zermatt is not boarder-friendly because there are lots of flat sections. Cervinia is better in that respect, but in common with many others I found the skiing on the Italian side a little more dull by way of scenery and variety of slopes. And many of the Italian chairs are elderly and extremely slow. And if you go to runs 21/22 in Cervinia (Cielalto) be aware that you have a rather hard uphill walk through the village to get back to the main skiing area afterward. The toilets at Plan Torrette are more civilised (just) than Plan Maison. The ones at the top of Klein Matterhorn you have to pay for.
- In a week you'll have time to ski all the Zermatt areas and find your own favourites. We liked the runs off the top of Rothorn (11,12,13,14,15).
- Many of the original blacks are now yellow itineraries, these are not pisted and not patrolled but are (I think) avalanche secured and closed if the snow isn't good enough. The Triftji bumps are some of the most famous, but the boarder may not like them. Personally I thought they were easier than either Mont Fort or Pas de Chavanette or the 'S' in Val d'Isere - not as steep as any of these and being high up very nice snow. Maybe similar in difficulty to Tortin, but not as long. The hardest part is the walk at the top. There's a second set of bumps down from Stockhorn which are much steeper and narrower.
- Don't feel embarrassed about getting the lift down at the end of the day. We did each resort run once (some of them in the mornings when the snow is good) and then stopped. Particularly from the Gornegrat area, the red/blue down is horrible in warm weather it gets very slushy, very bumpy and very crowded. Really not fun at all. The final red from Klein Matterhorn also has a very long flat poling/walking section - ski to Furi on either the black 62 or the red 52 then get the bubbles down for the last part.
- There are plenty of places to have a short lunch, but none of them is particularly cheap. Findeln has a very high density of restaurants. Chez Vrony is the most famous - we ate there without a reservation, but you can't get away without about an hour and a half, it's not somewhere for a quick lunch. Chez Adler and Paradies there were both very nice sit-down restaurants where we had soup/salad easily enough. And the ski area as a whole is hardly short of places to eat, including plenty of the standard ski-self-service type. Don't forget the Euros if you want to eat in Italy - that used to be rather cheaper but I'm not sure it really is any more.
"And the narrow reds really were long and not suitable for beginners or early intermediates. "
Well yes, that's why they are red runs, not blue. The reds on the left & middle of the piste map are not for beginners or early intermediates. The right hand side of the map is easier.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Frances, yikes...  detailed report!... If you could do that for every resort Frances you'd have a decent book on your hands.
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minx, most of it has been covered really, but:
Skiing over to Cervinia, we always try for the 8:30 Gondola upto Furi. Change there for the cable car, and straight on the next one to Klein Matterhorn. Take the path off the top, and when you hit the big wide piste, keep left. This takes you to the Italian side. From here, stick to run 7.0 right into the bottom of Cervinia, and throw your brain out!! Fantastic run, one of my favourites anywhere, was clocked at 91kmh on it at xmas Also, if you go over again, and the snow is upto, head down the Valtourneche side. Lovely little bowl, very quiet.
First morning ski legs: Take the Gondola upto Schwarzsee Paradise, you'll have a small ski from here down to the 4 man that takes you to Trockener Stegg. From here, head for the next chair you see by the main building. Top of here are two fantastic red runs, both fairly constant pitch, and 2 football pitches wide. Again, ideal for confidence building.
Other notable runs: The red down from Gornergrat to Furri, along the side of the railway. Any of the ones thru the trees aove Sunnega. Red from Gornegrat down to Gant. And my fave run ANYWHERE, follow the First morning route to the top. Take the left hand piste, but keep left off it. Goes into a lovely red down to the little link (5 cable cars, cant remember the name). You can come up from here, or head right back down to the village.
Mountain Resaurants: Prebooking is well advised at any. Fluhalp my personal fave, in the Rothorn sector (marked on the pistemaps). Massive sunterrace, with an Irish Ban playing, fantastic food, best view in the alps. Chez Vrony down towards the Village. Self Service at Gornergrat is good for a self service. Cervinia - not sure what it's called, but looks like a golf clubhouse, not far from the border.
Apres Ski: Hennu Stall on the run back from Schwarzsee. Great little hut with love bads on. Papperla - best bar in town, the two guys on the outside bar (Pocket and Stuey) are nuts. Tell 'em Ian the Scouser sent ya! Great inside too, live bands most nights. Schneewitchen downstairs, nightclub with rock night on sunday. Brown Cow on the main street, recently done up, much nicer than it used to be, great burgers. Beer Keller underneath, that stays open til 4am. Elsies bar on the high street, great wine list, lovely relaxed atmos. Potters Bar, down the side of Gornergrat Train Station, authentic English Pub, pub food (excellent), Boddies Bitter etc.. Internet access. Tell Shaun we sent yer! The little bar, like a window in the floor on the main street. The landlady brews her own Williams Schnapps!
Restaurants : Nelly's, best steaks in town. Old English (under the couronne), really nice. We aint too big on posh meals tho, so can't help too much here.
Hope that helps!!
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Very useful thread as we're going in 10 days time and I had some of the same questions. One thing though..
Red 27 wrote
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minx, I can help with the Cervinia stuff...
As for coming back - (most prefer not too ) - there are two ways... via the Cime Bianche cable car back to Plateau Rosa, or the 3 high speed quad chairs from Plan Maison to Theodulpass. The latter is preferred, and you should aim to be on the first of those chairs by 15.00. From the top of either of those routes is skiing all the way back down to Zermatt.
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Looking at the piste map , I can't see how you get to Plan Maison for the preferred return to Zermatt from the Salette area without going down to the bottom. Is there a way across, Red 27?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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DCG, you're right you can't... If you've skied in Salette / Valtournenche you will indeed have to go down to the gondola in the village which takes you back up to plan Maison... I guess my post is a little misleading - which side of Cervinia you're on does rather dictate to best way home to Zermatt.
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You can get back to Plateau Rosa, and hence Zermatt, from Valtournenche without going down to Cervinia, or even to Plan Maison.
When you come to the top of the drag lift that brings you back from Valtournenche, keep right towards the restaurant about 100 yards away; pass it, leaving it to the left, and there's a short (often a bit icy) drop down to the Ventina. Join it, and keep to the right and you'll end up at Cime Bianche, with the cable car straight up to Plateau Rosa. Like many of Cervinia's lifts the approach to the cable car station is uphill; I have no idea why, but I suppose it could be to give skiers greater satisfaction by making them feel they've made an effort.
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You know it makes sense.
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Charlatanefc, you forgot Grampies bar . . .
minx, just go to see the little guy on his keyboards - hilarious !
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Poster: A snowHead
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I'm reading this thread with great interest - we've decided definitely to go to Zermatt for next Christmas, and I'm about to start emailing hotels for availability. Some are already booked up
minx, do tell us how you got on please.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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mosh, It may well have been me. We have just come back from 1 week in Wengen and 1 week in Zermatt booked through them. I would not hesitate to recommend them, excellent service and they are very flexible whether you want self-catering or hotel. Jeff the MD even arranged to go out for a beer with us. How's that for personal service.
I have no connection with otp, just used them 3 times so far.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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RachelQ,
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It looks like there are going to be a fair number of snowHeads in Zermatt for Christmas
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Who might that be then?
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Charlatanefc, well, apart from us, just some other random skiers I happen to have met from time to time through some internet forum or other
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RachelQ, weirdo's the lot of em
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FAQ
as for you 
