 Poster: A snowHead
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We had planned to head to the Croix de Fer, mythic leg of the Tour de France, which had opened officially this weekend. After meeting at 4.30am we were heading up the pass in the dim light of dawn. David was in a hurry, gunning the motor of his Berlingo and short shifting the gearbox on the corners. Suddenly, BANG! The car skidded to the right, below a 300 meter drop into the Riviers d'Allemond gorge, for a few seconds we were on a short bronco ride into the void before the car eventually came to a halt across the road. We had hit a stone and the tired had blown. An early walker came across to find out if we were okay. He inquired if we were from Grenoble, the last time he'd seen someone drive like that was when he had visited the autonamed Capital of the Alps.
We would leave the tire change until later. This was as far as we would go today. From here we would walk.
Plenty of snow on the Grandes Rousses/Etendart
The snowline was hovering around 1900m. This seems to be the spring resistance point. From late April the snow retreats to this altitude then hovers around this point until the end of May when the full force of the summer sun hits home. It is then a rapid melt until no snow remains on the mountains. The Grandes Rousses above Vaujany were still covered in snow, they could run the lifts until the end of May if they had the skiers and you could ski on the Sarenne glacier until the 4th of July but it obviously doesn't make commercial sense.
Tracks under the Rocher Blanc
Over the last week the snowline had hovered between 2100 and 2800 meters. Conditions were considerably better than last weekend although the snow also hid quite a lot of stones for the unwary. There was a layer of graupel around 2200 meters, this could be dangerous as it would form a weak layer in the snowpack, a bit like ball-bearings. For the most part it should melt off at this time of year. Higher up the snow turned to powder with a wind-crust.
At the summit of the Rocher Blanc (2928 meters) a strong northerly was blowing spind drift everywhere, down jackets, into rucksacks. It was distinctly chilly. This was my third visit to this, oh so skiable summit. We had been here the week before when we had Toured the Cretes of the Marmottane. Then we had perfect firn snow and back in March we had skied the steep and cold Couloir Septentrionale with difficult icy snow at the top transforming to knee deep powder lower down.
Genepi
Given the crust we had encountered on the way up, and that it would be a good hour before the sun transformed this into skiable snow, we decided to ski the north facing Combe Madame in the hope that this sheltered bowl with its moribund glacier would have conserved the snow. This meant a return by the Col de la Combe Madame. I'd never skied the south side of this col but the steep walls made it a secret and magical destination.
The first hundred meters of descent were still crusty. Jean and I were both on Sweet Daddies. A relatively stiff and wide ski (80mm underfoot) I'd brought mine for soft snow and other difficult conditions and they certainly coped with the crust, the wide shovel blasting through the layer like a Russian ice-breaker. David was on his Dynastar touring skis and was less confortable initially, our nice tracks lulling him into a false sense of security. The snow soon improved and we were treated to 500 meters of excellent skiing before refixing skins to climb to the Col. We stopped here for a break. Jean, an expert hunter, had homemade Pate. He was about to explain how he made it but I stopped him, it would spoil the pleasure. He had also brought some Genepi.
Col de la Combe Madame
The tour is fairly logical as the climb is only 200 meters vertical, accomplished in a bit under 20 minutes. The col has the biggest cairn I've seen and this and the shape of the col scuplts the snow into a narrow bowl. There was a single set of ski tracks at the col but these lead off to another summit. We had the slopes below to ourselves, pure. 600 meters of vertical before the short walk back to the car and our real work of changing the wheel. David had a bit of a shock when his tire wrench didn't fit the nuts on the wheel - then I showed him he was trying to undo the fake plastic nuts on the tire trim. Banane as the French would say.
The skiing on this tour is not difficult and not dangerous. 30 degree slopes and on good snow if you plan things right. It was nice to just ski for the pleasure without a care for the dangers that beset many ski tours. Falls, cliffs, hard ice, steep slopes.
More photos on Jean's site Rocher Blanc
Oh the Sarkozy Effect. We were worried about the rock strewn road on the way down as we now had no spare but it has been swept clean, not even dust remained. Obviously the new president was good to his word to get France working.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Just a quick note. There are quite a few slabs at higher altitude (>3000m) with 30-50cm of fresh snow and strong winds. Some skiers triggered a large slab on the aptly named Grand Casse yesterday. Take care if you are heading into the mountains.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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When's he going to lower the taxes, that's what I want to know!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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davidof, Its a great report, and would certainly have me tempted were I young fit lad. Friends that bring along home made pate and genepi......invaluable. 
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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| davidof wrote: |
| The Grandes Rousses above Vaujany were still covered in snow, they could run the lifts until the end of May if they had the skiers and you could ski on the Sarenne glacier until the 4th of July but it obviously doesn't make commercial sense. |
If only...
Great TR. Snow looks like it's holding up pretty well despite the warm temps in April
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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davidof, sounds wonderful. Lovely pictures too. 
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brian
brian
Guest
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davidof, nice t/r and vid Looks like you found some interesting snow off that summit ... and some lovely stuff later on.
How much season do you have left do you think ?
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| brian wrote: |
davidof, nice t/r and vid Looks like you found some interesting snow off that summit ... and some lovely stuff later on.
How much season do you have left do you think ? |
with rain falling at altitude (again) not much. Normally I ski to mid-June and folks I know push it to July. Although snow is still good > 2500 meters it is very poor lower down. It may be that some of the traditional June routes are still feasible that late but with a bit of a hiatus in between.
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davidof,
Seems daft to post seperately saying the same thing to your reports Brians report and Arnos so I will just post here to say thanks a lot to all of you for posting these Trip reports. I find them all great to read well put together and inspiring . Great stuff, 's at its most enjoyable.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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davidof,
Always enjoy your trips
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