 Poster: A snowHead
|
I'm thinking about servicing our skis, S&R are ok but they just bung em through machines and they dont always need it IMV.
I have been shown how to clean, fill, scrape, file, wax and brush.
I will be servicing Dynastar Troublemakers 05/06 and Fischer RX8's 06/07. I will stay with the standard edges, can anyone tell me what they are ?
And can anyone recommend a good edging tool to do those angles - hopefully they are the same for both skis.
I've seen a Value Steam iron in Tesco for under a fiver, if I set it to the lowest heat and go carefully will it do the job ? The sole plate has holes in it.
All opinions welcome.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
micky, You don't have to stick to the factory tune. A 2* or 3* side angle would work fine on both skis and if you keep them the same you'll only need one tool.
Get a fixed angle metal edging tool - all much of a muchness from what I've seen so don't worry too much about "brand", but a good set of stones and a decent file are a good idea. Toko do a reasonable file you can find all over the place and moonstone do great stones, but you need to import them or speak to Spyderjon.
You can use a cheapo iron, ones with no holes are better, but proper wax irons are the best. The melting point of the wax is (I think) at the "cotton" setting  . You'll have to guess it, you need hot enough to melt the wax, but cool enough so it doesn't smoke.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
|
I just bought a load more stuff from Sj. I had been using a travel iron for waxing but found that it stayed hot for 20 seconds and then required turning up the heat and waiting for another few minutes for the damn thing to heat up again. Instead of taking an hour to wax a pair of skis I should be able to do it in 10 minutes now.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
micky, Factory tune on the Dynastars is 1,2 & on the Fischers is 1,3. If you only want to use one side edge guide I'd tune 'em both to a 3 degree side angle, otherwise you'll need two guides.
Great advice above from Marc t'Mosher re using fixed angle guides (I've never found adjustable guides to give repeatable accuracy) & the superb Moonflex diamond files.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
spyderjon,
Hi. I'm used to 89degrees and +1, how does this relate to 1,2 and 1,3.
I will get two tools of they are not too expensive. Mind you the Dynas have been serviced at S&R once so I think they will be their standard whcih as I recall is 89/ +1 which gives an effective 90.
What angles am I aiming for and what tools would you suggest ?
We hope to get away for 2 weeks a year.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
micky, the base edge angle dictates how much the ski has to be tipped before the edge engages & the side edge angle dictates how much the edge bites once engaged.
When specifying edge angles the base edge angle is always quoted first, then the side edge angle. Therefore a 1,2 denotes a 1 degree base edge angle & a 2 degrees side edge angle. The base edge angle is measured from the horizontal plane & the side edge angle is measured from the vertical. The actual 'effective' angle of the 'knife edge' is never quoted. In the US they sometimes measure the side edge angle from the horizontal so a 1 degree side angle can also be known as 89 degrees etc.
Factory tune on the Dynastars is 1,2 & on the Fischers is 1,3 but S&R usually have their machines set to 1,2.
The tools required for effective edge work are as follows:
Alu-oxide stone - for removing case hardened impact dings etc.
Base edge angle guide - for holding the file/stone at the correct angle. Can be omitted if the base edge is already set.
Side edge angle guide - for holding the file/stone at the correct angle. Either fixed angle anodized aluminium c/w clamp to hold the file/stone (ie Snoli) or a fixed angle plastic holder that has a slot to hold the file/stone (ie Moonflex Minituner).
File(s) - for initial edge setting (if required).
Diamond file(s)/stone(s) - for regular touch-up's/sharpening & polishing. Usually in grits of 100, 200, 400, 600 & 1500. Only using one stone is fine for recreational skiers but most of my customers go for two stones to give a sharpening cut & then a polishing cut, usually a 100 & 400 or a 200 & 600. Racers or true tuning geeks will have all five.
Gummi stone - for deburring, ie removing the hanging burr raised by the edge tuning process. Also great for removing rust etc.
BTW, once the edges have been set & polished all future tuning should be done on the side edge only to avoid over bevelling the base edge &/or lowering the base edge below the level of the p-tex to give a 'high base'.
Hopes this hleps. I've a full written guide on my website.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
spyderjon, Thanks Jon. I would like to keep the cost down but I don't want to waste money on poor tools. I can see that you approve the stuff on your site. the edges are in a good state at the moment (no burrs) so I thought I would try a tune up with a stone(s) on the edges to start with. The Dynas have been into S&R once and the Fischers are still in the factory state so I think I need the following tools (please confirm):
Dyna 1,2 = an 88 degree side angle
Fisher 1,3 = an 87 degree side angle
Will doing the side edges only actually sharpen the skiing edge ? or will I need a stone on the base edge as well ?
What tools/stones/etc would you recommend as a minimum please ? cost ?
Excuse my need for so much detail, appreciate your help
PS. I'd love a lesson, have you got a branch in Surrey ?
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
micky, You're quite near me - if you want a lesson (spyderjon, does a DVD btw).... send me a PM and we'll see if we can agree a date
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
micky, A min set-up would be:
A couple of Moonflex Minituner's (one in 88 & one in 87 @ £11 each), a single Moonflex Mini diamond file in 100grit (£14) & a Gummi stone (£5) to remove the hanging burr. All tuning should be on the side edge only unless you get damage to the base edge. BTW, an alu-oxide stone & base edge guide are only £5.50 & £5 respectively.
If you haven't done any tuning before & can't make to Nottm then I'd recommend my DVD or popping along to ski's.
You can order from my website.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
spyderjon, many thanks.
ski, I have PM'd you.
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
ski, Are you about, I have PM'd you, maybe you are away ?
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
micky, He was online yesterday. The message will still be in your outbox if he has not yet read it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
|
spyderjon, The 87 degree edge was fine on my B2's. I kept the tips sharp and they weren't too grabby, but they did need a little more finesse on hte hardpack. In powder... who cares hehehe
|
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
Scarpa, 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
|
spyderjon, Nice terminology section!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
veeeight, Thanks. Having a bit of trouble with the spacing at the moment 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
