 Poster: A snowHead
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I was servicing my skis over the weekend. When I was scraping and brushing the wax off today it just dawned on me that I've completely forgotten about brushing the skis before waxing. So I guess I didn't really open the structure in the base. Obviously not ideal but will it matter? I'm a bit lazy to wax my skis again just for this...
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Mon 26-02-24 18:56; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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it won't matter much
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Unless you're a WC racer you won't notice!
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I always thought its the iron heat slowly warming/heating the skis/boards matrix up that then opens up the ptex base structure to suck up the wax .
Isnt brushing before waxing just another step to aid getting even more old wax out/off before using cleaner/prep base wax then using your preferred wax ?
I cut corners miss steps depending on my time ..but concentrate on getting the top sheet warm so the ptex takes the wax .
No doubt the more time you put in doing all the correct steps the better off you are but I just do whats possible in the time I have ...and end up doing it more often .
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Don’t worry about it. Give them a good proper clean out every few weeks of use though.
And no, it’s not a good idea to get the top sheet warm. In fact you want the base quite warm but want to avoid that penetrating into the complex layers of the ski. So that one is not good advice!
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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How does the hot box principle work then ?
Off topic in the op,s case but heat works for myself in cold resort rooms especially with cold temp wax
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I never brush before waxing.
I don't clean or hot wax either.
Shoot me 
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@euanovsky, What about flossing? You should always floss before a wax.
Then there's always the debate about do you wax yourself or have a professional wax. 
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Timc, Sorry I haven't come across this term and a quick google didn't quite answer the question either. What's flossing?
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@Tirol 164, if you have to ask….
The hot box treatment takes so long because it is a relatively low temperature and designed to slowly heat the ski evenly. This avoiding damage from different layers in the lamination heating and expanding at different rates. An iron on the base will do the opposite. Don’t do it. Unless you want to ruin your skis of course.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@euanovsky, whatever good you did by waxing, it just won't last as long. No harm done.
I think for regular folks some of this being anal about waxing is a bit much. I used to be that way about waxing, and about wine. Now I wax when I feel like it, and I drink local wine without even asking what it is. And I'm having as much fun or more as a result.
Now, the edges....they're still important! 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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| zikomo wrote: |
| And no, it’s not a good idea to get the top sheet warm. In fact you want the base quite warm but want to avoid that penetrating into the complex layers of the ski. So that one is not good advice! |
Really? not what I was told. You should get top sheet warm to know the base has fully expanded to accept the wax.
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| Baron von chippy wrote: |
| zikomo wrote: |
| And no, it’s not a good idea to get the top sheet warm. In fact you want the base quite warm but want to avoid that penetrating into the complex layers of the ski. So that one is not good advice! |
Really? not what I was told. You should get top sheet warm to know the base has fully expanded to accept the wax. |
That's also my understanding. The top sheet should be warm to touch (well not warm warm but not room temperature either) when you are ironing.
Agreed for all intents and purposes it's unlikely to matter for a recreational skier like me 
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You know it makes sense.
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The other hot box is to wax on a sunny day, leaving the waxed bases to lie in the sun.
The wax will.warm up to a semi liquid and really soak in.
Come back after a day's skiing and scrape/polish.
Lovely job
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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My thing is I have about 20 boards a few are decades old.
I have never had a delam or any structural issue whatsoever other than hitting trees using the board as a shield
Generally I would have 6-7 waxed and repeat waxing every three days of riding over months in resort
In resort with a cheap wax I take my time with a 1000w iron set so as to never burn or alter the ptex structure .
Crayon on first then drip "always keeping the iron moving" eventually over a period of time the heat warms thru to the top sheet If touched by hand .
Its not hot only just touch warm and this is at the end of it all which takes time.
Givern its -10 to -20 temps inside sometimes I try and warm the board in the boot room first.
Then wax using the right wax heat temp on the iron.... this eventually opens the ptex structure up and helps absorb the wax but its a slow process .
You cant increase the iron temp and rush it in cold temps as it risks burning the ptex structure and effectively can melt the ptex pores shut defeating the whole purpose and requiring a base grind.
Which is what will happen with a house iron in cold rooms using cold wax on big boards the ptex will change its colour or shade of black .
So I wax at night and scrape in the morning as you tend to rush in the morning especially on a powder day .
The only anal part is the heating part all the other steps depend on my time that day .
A 1000w iron is a key requirement with large surface area powder boards cold waxes and cold rooms ie diy with no proper workshop
The boards noses are over a foot wide so when doing wide longer boards the stable heat from a 1000w iron really works well I wouldnt use anything less.
A 800watt iron just isnt as good and certainly not worth the price difference it also takes alot longer when doing a few .
For home use once or twice a year they are probably fine I have one but dont like using it.
I miss steps sometimes because of no proper workshop but thats where the 1000 watt iron still gets the wax impregnation done which imo is the important part diy if you just want glide .
Better Dominator wax from the piste office would very likely help in my case so would vices and a bench in a warm room ,
I tend to do the best I can with what time and tools Ive got and slow even heat is how I do it .
Last edited by Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: on Tue 27-02-24 14:25; edited 1 time in total
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Poster: A snowHead
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@Scooter in Seattle, +1
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Scooter in Seattle, @Baron von chippy, agree with both
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Quote: |
Givern its -10 to -20 temps inside sometimes I try and warm the board in the boot room first
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Brrrr.............
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Ask 20 skiers/boarders......
...... get 20 different answers.
For my halfpennies worth, after 5 minutes you won't know the difference.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@king key, +1
And ask a few organic polymer chemists about ptex “drying out”, “oxidising”, “pores opening up with heat” and similar, and they’ll look at you like you’ve landed from Mars.
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@king key, ...nope...
ask 20 skiers
get 50 answers....
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Wine makes me emotional. So do sharp edges.
Wax….meh. I do all my gear perfectly at the start of the season because I’m hanging out for a slide. Give up on it when the snow comes and have just as much fun.
Maybe spring is the time to actually care ?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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This was interesting. I've always been pretty sceptical about the claim that ski bases have 'pores' which wax penetrates - at least in the way I think most people think about it. This experiment is at least an attempt to address the issue, but is very far from conclusive. I think it's completely consistent with the dye/phantom just binding to microscopic surface roughness (and sintered bases have more microscopic roughness than extruded bases), which is my prior for what wax actually does.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Hi
I wax my own skis. I always check the temp the iron should be set to against the packaging of the wax I'm using. Drip a continuous bead on to the base of the ski. Keep the iron moving whilst melting the wax and whilst spreading across the base of the ski. Keep checking the temp of the top sheet using the back of my hand - once slightly warm to the touch that's enough - leave wax to cool and then scrape off and finish with a good brush.
Cheers
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