 Poster: A snowHead
|
I know this has been mentioned previously but having looked on both here and SCGB I cannot find the relevant thread.
Whilst in the loft yesterday (I know they shouldnt be kept in a loft) I noticed a small amount of light rust (some of it came off) around the tips of my skis.
Can/How do I remove this?
The skis were serviced prior to going into hiding for the summer, plenty of wax on them and the edges are ok.
Do I need to get them re-serviced?
Only 12 weeks to go 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
|
Linds, start with a little (just a few drops ) of vegtable oil on a cloth and rub off any light rust, if there is any rust remaining get a bit of very fine emery paper (that's sandpaper for use on metal, try a B&Q or similar) wrap it arround a small rubber block say 2cm x 1cm x 6cm (a pencil eraser will do) and gently rub away any remaining rust before rubbing over with that vegtable oiled cloth, if the rust is deeper than just on the surface and takes more than light rubbing to remove get the edges re ground, the bases should be fine so wont need doing. in future remember always keep your skis in a dry area where they can breath and wipe the edges with veg oil before you put them away each year
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
Many thanks DJ,
Only one small bit that hasnt come off. I will try the emery paper on it.
They are now going to stay in the spare room and not the loft. 
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
Linds it helps to keep a candle end (or ski wax) in a pocket so that you can displace any water immediately after skiing. Just run the candle end up and down the edges- it does the same thing as veg. oil only easier to carry  . (Oh, and never, never put them in a ski bag when wet).
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
|
The trouble with never putting them in the bag when wet, is that it's not always possible, plus sometimes water is trapped inside the bindings so whilst they appear dry the moisture comes out later, the best option when putting the skis away is to ensure that they spend at least 2 weeks out of the bag in a warm dry room, then when you put them away either put them in a sealed bag with some silica gel crystals or similar if going in a loft or garage where moisture can get in or in a nice warm dry room somewhere at home, also try not to leave the skis in tight base to base contact as this will eventually reduce their spring
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
| D G Orf wrote: |
| The trouble with never putting them in the bag when wet, is that it's not always possible, plus sometimes water is trapped inside the bindings so whilst they appear dry the moisture comes out later |
Very true, D G, I've wrapped the race skis in diapers  before for just this reason.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As Comprex suggests, this is a convenient and fairly inexpensive source of fresh silica gel. There is quite a bit of silica gel in diapers, and even more in the corresponding product for senior citizens.
Although I have never used them for my skis, I have used such products for years in my camera bags, and they work extremely well. The only problem I ever had was once, when I was shooting a wedding, I left the top of one of my bags open and an elderly guest spotted the diaper. The look on her face was priceless - I could just imagine her saying to herself, "He looks so young to have to deal with such a problem" .
Tom / PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Comprex, Thanks for the suggestion to carry ski wax, would be a lot easier and less messy than a bottle of vegtable oil 
Diapers (nappies to us Brits), I carry around enough stuff in my pockets as it is.
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
|
Linds, you only need the oil at the end of the season, something most people have in their kitchen, it will take several days for rust to form on the edges, that won't happen whilst skiing as snow is a natural abrasive, as anyone who has ever fallen at speed will testify to
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rust on ski edges is usually very superficial, and nothing much to worry about. Unless the skis are stored in very humid conditions it won't amount to significant corrosion.
I rust my case.
|
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
Actually on a technical point, it depends on the hardness of the edges, edges that stay sharp and work well on ice tend to have a higher carbon content and thus be more vunerable to rust than others, the iron will rust and it can be significant given the current methods of ski construction, a pitting of just 0.5 mm may reduce the life of the edges by as much as half, very roughly an edge grind will remove between 0.05mm and 0.1mm so 0.5mm could be the eqivalent of 10 full services.
Ok it won't rust right the way down the edge, rather you will end up with small patches of deep rust, these look like flakes of rust with a granular appearence, and larger areas of surface rust, which tends to much finer and is easily removable
|
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
There's a product called Super VP90 (sold at gunsmiths) that if you drop a sachet in your ski bag will protect them completely while in store over the summer. I really can't recommend this stuff highly enough.
And 4 long term protection the SuperShield is incredibly tough www.vp90.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
FAQ
