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Christmas for non skiers, impossible ask?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
This may be an impossible ask but trying to present a realistic view of what we need Smile

I'm looking for suggestions for a Christmas ski holiday with a focus on non skiers. Ideally some kind of non skier Christmas paradise where my non skiing wife is happy and relaxed with plenty to do.

Any views from non skiers/non boarders on Christmas trips they have enjoyed would be especially helpful.

Date will be Christmas 24 (unlikely) or Christmas 25 (more likely) for a week or so.

The group:
Me good all mountain skier.
Son 11 year old early intermediate (fine on reds unless bad conditions), typically likes to ski all day and then do almost nothing in the evening.
My wife who is a non skier who has a tendency to feel left out when me and my son ski. She's a fluent German speaker and loves German type stuff. Loves hiking but has been reluctant to try snowshoeing in the past. Not one for sitting around drinking wine all day.
My non skiing parents probably won't come but worth mentioning.

Requirements:
My son and I are not really fussy where we ski. We can get the most out of sub optimal conditions. For example we still enjoyed skiing slush in the rain Seefeld in Feb 24. The only thing we want to avoid is lift queues and everything being closed (slushy, brown, patchy, artificial snow is ok).
My wife will need an incredible array of both active and relaxing non skiing activities in stunning settings.
If they came my parents are very relaxed. They will be 100% happy with a few cafes and possibly the odd trip up a gondola if not insanely expensive.
We would also need some kind of family activities for the afternoon that will work for an 11/12 year old. Think family time enjoyed together doing something active. These are absolutely key but and must be appealing enough to my son who will be tired and will naturally want to stay in after skiing.
We'd like to minimise the time to get to/from the slopes so we can pop out for a ski and get back easily for family time.
Using a car in resort is not possible because my wife does not drive. EDIT: I also wouldn't be driving on a ski trip.

The last time we tried something like this was Easter in Saas Fee in 2023. Weather was exactly what I had hoped, either 20 degrees and sunny in the village or fresh snow. My son and I had a great week skiing but my wife got bored because the walking trails were all closed and wasn't keen on exploring down the valley. We stayed at the hostel 4000 so we had an onsite spa and swimming pool but it still didn't deliver enough of a range of non skiing activities. EDIT: This trip was not a success for my wife because she felt she was trapped at the end of the valley surrounded by snowy mountains without much to do. She said that too many hiking trails were shut for avalanche risk (we did have a couple of major dumps of snow).

I have come up with a few options but I'm not sure if they fit:
Tignes Le Lac, I'd love to but I'm not sure if the swimming pool and a walk across the lake will be enough for my wife.
Les Arcs 1950, Again I'd love to but not much for non skiers apart from pools and saunas in the apartments which would be too limited.
Saas Fee, In theory great but if it didn't work at Easter I'm concerned it won't work again.
Sierra Nevada (Spain), skiing would be fine (slush, rain artificial snow ok) and would be quiet I think (the Spanish celebrate kings day in early Jan, right?). It seems non skiing activities would require a bus down the mountain to Granada which would possibly take up too much time.
Ischgl or Samnaun, Skiing great but non skiing activities look limited. Ischgl spa looks really expensive for the whole week.
Innsbruck, Non skiing activities are probably really good, skiing would work at the local resorts, downside is travel time to the slopes eating into time together too much. If snow is bad, bus to Khutai or Stubai would take far too long for my son to cope each day.
Orelle/Brides Les Bains/Bourg St Maurice, Skiing would work but trip to/from slopes would take too long. Possibly good activities at village level but don't really know them well enough.

My current view is to accept this isn't possible but I thought I'd ask because you never know if there is a genius on here that can suggest something? Smile


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Fri 5-07-24 16:43; edited 4 times in total
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@Henwc, if the cost of holidaying in Switzerland is no bar, it would be hard to beat the Jungfrau region. Trains go to umpteen places, non-skiers can meet skiers for lunch in lovely mountain-top restaurants, the possibilities are limitless. Grindelwald probably has more to offer within the town itself - it's quite a big place - but personally I prefer to say in Wengen, because it's positioned more centrally between Grindelwald and Mürren, and because it's car-free.
Another Swiss possibility might be Crans Montana, but that's French- speaking.
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(But I'm not sure what Crans Montana's snow would be like at Christmas.)
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@Hurtle, Thanks, Switzerland is a possibility in that we can probably avoid too many meals out etc. to keep the cost down. I usually dig through the resort websites for a bargain on the accommodation as a starting point. Transport is usually ok if there's a train for transfers.

I don't know the Jungfrau region at all so I'll do some research.
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@Henwc, You say that your wife does not drive, but you don't mention if you do. If you were to stay in Innsbruck, the use of a car would cut the resort travel time for you and your son, and your wife would not need one as public transport within the city and nearby is good/it's small enough that you can walk to a lot of places anyway. The Christmas markets also run until the first week of January, I think. I often ski over the Christmas period – it is usually very quiet on the slopes.
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Scarlet wrote:
@Henwc, You say that your wife does not drive, but you don't mention if you do. If you were to stay in Innsbruck, the use of a car would cut the resort travel time for you and your son, and your wife would not need one as public transport within the city and nearby is good/it's small enough that you can walk to a lot of places anyway. The Christmas markets also run until the first week of January, I think. I often ski over the Christmas period – it is usually very quiet on the slopes.
Sorry, to clarify I would also not be driving (technically I can but it wouldn't be an option in Europe). Edited original post to reflect this. Innsbruck may still be an option though.
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Dachstein Koenig, Gosau, Dachstein West.

150m from the lift. Families only hotel with a lot to offer the non-skiers. Swimming pool, wellness centre etc etc.

Skiing: not the biggest ski area but a great sense of travel from village to village - sounds as though the skiers would manage the mostly red piste skiing. Easy access to the mountain summit for non-skiers with good options for a mountain restaurant meet up. Foot passenger prices reasonable.

Non skier(s): Abundance of snow shoe walking or normal hiking in the entire Gosau valley. Plenty of level-walking on marked tracks. Local buses increase options for slightly further afield walking e.g. around the Gosausee (lake). A part day trip to Hallstatt (UNESCO village) also possible. The hotel provides either transport or complimentary (or it certainly used to be) e-cars for guests.

Mountain eating: lots of decent, traditional options. Lunch from €10-18, large beer €5 for example.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Quote:

Tignes Le Lac, I'd love to but I'm not sure if the swimming pool and a walk across the lake will be enough for my wife.
Les Arcs 1950, Again I'd love to but not much for non skiers apart from pools and saunas in the apartments which would be too limited.

Tignes le Lac would be my choice as ski resorts go it seems to have the most for a non skier. For a start there is:

Scuba diving under the lake.
Ice climbing.
Snow mobile rental
Indoor climbing wall
Sports centre
Swimming pool
Walks
Cross-country skiing

I'm not sure about ice skating since all I can recall is the ice skating rink in Val d'Isere.

Most of these would also be available as afternoon/evening activies for you and your son.

TBH I don't think many of these activites are available at Arc 1950. Bourg st Maurice is a quick funicular ride from the skiing at Les Arcs, but apart from the municipal swimming pool, the skateboard park and, of course, the cheese factory I cannot think of much for the non skier to do.
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@Jäger, Thanks, hotel looks lovely, the boy loves a water slide, might just be enough to tempt my wife Smile

@johnE, Thanks, I'm in favour of anything that improves my chances of getting back to Tignes so very helpful Smile
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Henwc wrote:
@Hurtle, Thanks, Switzerland is a possibility in that we can probably avoid too many meals out etc. to keep the cost down. I usually dig through the resort websites for a bargain on the accommodation as a starting point. Transport is usually ok if there's a train for transfers.

I don't know the Jungfrau region at all so I'll do some research.


I'd echo @Hurtle's recommendation of the Jungfrau region of Switzerland, with it's iconic views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, and many blue and red pistes including of course the classic Lauberhorn downhill course. As she said the mountain railways make it very easy for non-skiers to meet up with the skiers for lunch together. It's also a German speaking part of Switzerland (although of course all the shop and restaurant staff speak excellent English). Wengen is also my preferred location when I stay in the region, I can recommend the very good value (for Switzerland) hotel Edelweiss which I've stayed at for many years. The hotel owner Daniel is very welcoming and the hotel has a good buffet breakfast and the set 4 course evening meal option is very good and worthwhile taking as it's CHF35 extra per person per night. The hotel also has sledges which guests can use (the area has several long toboggan runs).

The hotel has a sauna but no pool, but if anyone in your group fancies a swim session then the hotel Victoria Lauberhorn right next to Wengen station has an excellent pool and spa complex which non residents can pay to use.
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@Alastair Pink, Thanks, I have a feeling the Jungfrau region will appeal to my wife. Looks good for a train journey from UK with an outward stopover in Paris and a change at Geneva.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Info on the Jungfrau region skipasses: https://www.jungfrau.ch/en-gb/jungfrau-ski-region/buy-skipass/

There's also a hiking and sledging liftpass which lets non-skiers use the trains and cable cars shown on the map in the link: https://www.jungfrau.ch/en-gb/jungfrau-ski-region/jungfrau-region-hiking-sledging-pass/

If you did want to fly you can fly on easyJet to Basel and then go by train from there (there's a frequent shuttle bus goes from Basel airport to Basel train station, takes about 20mins) or fly into Zurich on either BA or Swiss (Swiss have free ski carriage if that's a consideration) and then train from the airport to Wengen.
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You could consider Davos.
It is a bit pricey but the valley is very attractive, there is a wide variety of alternative winter activities going on in the valley as well as a very good rail and bus network to take you to the different places. It has a reputation of having a very good early season snow record.
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You know it makes sense.
@Alastair Pink, Thanks for the extra detail.

@T Bar, Thanks, I have never considered Davos, I'll take a look.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Thanks all, some very good suggestions, I'll save this thread as a link on my master ski trip planning spreadsheet.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I'd agree with the earlier recommendations for the Jungfrau area. Regular Trains up to the Eiger Gletscher are spectacular even if you don't ski and don't want to do the whole Jungfraujoch thing. Even just taking the trains between Grindelwald and Wengen gives lots of places to get off and have a meal or a drink, enjoy the atmosphere, of which there is plenty, and allows you to easily meet up at lunchtime or for a bit of apres-ski then take the train back down together if you feel so inclined. And you can also take the train down to Interlaken, just half an hour or less, IIRC, for a day or evening out down there (I recall a half-decent curry house, for example, although that was >15 years ago).

Davos is mentioned, but although it's great for skiing (I've lead holiday groups there quite a few times, as I have in Grindelwald, now I come to think about it) the town is a mess, no real feel to it, no central point, spread out along the valley. Klosters is a better option to stay at, IMO, much more self-contained and compact. And the last ski through the woods down to the village never ceases to please.
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@Chaletbeauroc, Thanks for the good advice, useful details.
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Chaletbeauroc wrote:
I'd agree with the earlier recommendations for the Jungfrau area. Regular Trains up to the Eiger Gletscher are spectacular even if you don't ski and don't want to do the whole Jungfraujoch thing. Even just taking the trains between Grindelwald and Wengen gives lots of places to get off and have a meal or a drink, enjoy the atmosphere, of which there is plenty, and allows you to easily meet up at lunchtime or for a bit of apres-ski then take the train back down together if you feel so inclined. And you can also take the train down to Interlaken, just half an hour or less, IIRC, for a day or evening out down there (I recall a half-decent curry house, for example, although that was >15 years ago).

Davos is mentioned, but although it's great for skiing (I've lead holiday groups there quite a few times, as I have in Grindelwald, now I come to think about it) the town is a mess, no real feel to it, no central point, spread out along the valley. Klosters is a better option to stay at, IMO, much more self-contained and compact. And the last ski through the woods down to the village never ceases to please.

I agree that the town of Davos is not particularly interesting but the valley is very good. My experience of non skiers there though is based on going with my mother when she found far more to do see and walk than when we went to Wengen.(Her experience not mine) ,
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Kitzbühel, maybe Chamonix, and Davos spring to mind. Maybe Zell am See?

Ischgl is not it, I think.

If Innsbruck, you could look at a village outside Innsbruck like Götzens or Axams. A bit quicker for you + son to get to the slopes at eg Axamer Lizum, with option to try other resorts some days as you like, and still only ~10-15 mins (depending where) for your wife to get to the city on the bus or tram.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
If your wife wrote a list of her 6 favourite things to do, what would they be, @Henwc? People often ask about activities for non skiers without giving any idea what they like doing. For example, I'd not be remotely interested in either shopping or a spa but would like a network of busses or trains to get about. I would also welcome guided walks or snowshoeing, especially if I spoke fluent German. If in self catering accommodation I'd also be happy some days to buy nice stuff and produce us all a super meal ( leaving you to wash up whilst I read a good book with a glass of expensive brandy).
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I'm in Dartmouth at present, and hugely enjoyed the small local museum. A fluent German speaker might well find some interesting local corners even if bigger towns like Salzburg were out of reach.
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@Henwc, Non German speaking, but how about St Martin de Belleville (3V)? I speak with non skier experience recently after spending 5 weeks there from Boxing day as I couldn't ski (I had a broken arm!). I was never bored. It's a pretty village with excellent access to the skiing at Christmas, even if the snow cover is thinner lower down. Pretty village, 1450m. LOADS of walks, and the option to take the lift up to meet family for lunch and even get right over get top to and from Meribel (all lift served), plus a free bus up the valley to explore further, and (for example) walk back to base.
At Christmas I'm not sure as a pedestrian I'd want to stay too high, as there's less joy to be had walking in a whiteout. There is a new very swanky looking indoor/outdoor pool and wellness centre being built in the middle of St M at the moment which will really add to the facilities, Other stuff-there's a really good local museum in the village-well worth a visit (features life in the mountains pre skiing, and how the skiing developed) dog sledding is in walking distance, guided snowshoe walks-and I think guided walks more generally.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
We did a similar Christmas trip a few years ago to St Anton. My son and I skied while my wife enjoyed great walks, all the stuff in town, plus a day out on the train to Innsbruck Christmas market. She also took the bus to Lech and met us for lunch as we skied there and back for the day. We stopped in Nasserein which was significantly cheaper than St Anton itself but only a short walk to the nearest lift. It was one of the best trips we’ve had in many years of ski holidays with a non-skier. I’d thoroughly recommend it.
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1. St Moritz
2. Davos
3. Lech
4. Kitzbuhel
5. Cortina
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@johnE,
Tignes has ice skating on the lake in le Lac.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
Someone who is reluctant to try snow shoeing is unlikely to be tempted by ice skating.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
A few years ago, took my Mum with us to VdI at Christmas and she wasn't bored at all - it's a big enough town to have things other than skiing and you'll get your Tignes fix @Henwc
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Some people are not easily bored! We took my mum to a tiny Austrian resort and she loved it. She walked a flat easy road to a nice cafe and had coffee and cake watching the skiing then walked back to the apartment to make us all a simple lunch. I cooked the evening meal for the six of us. There was also an outdoor heated pool which everyone enjoyed. And she read a lot. There were no gondolas or she'd have enjoyed a trip up to a mountain restaurant.
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I always struggle with these threads because it seems that there is often a moon on a stick list of requirements for the non skier who doesn't like snow-shoeing, spas etc. My usual response would be let the non skier stay home or go on a break with friends somewhere of their preference but I guess that isn't realistic for a mum at Xmas time.

I'd be inclined to suck up a car rental for the skiers for convenience and ski out of Innsbruck. Non skier could take bus up and meet skiers at Patscherkofel and Axamer Lizum a couple of days.
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@Origen, you never know what some people like and others don't. On another thread someone couldn't undertand why active people didn't go running, for example. I have a climbing friend who goes to Scotland for winter mountaineering. I've tried to entice him skiing but he has no interest and prefers going up an ice filled gully with his axes, crampons and rope. I fancy joining him someday.

I was shocked a few years ago talking to a young lady who said she liked shopping. I couldn't imagine anyone liking shopping.

So in answering a question about a non skier coming on a skiing holiday in the absence of any other information I just list the things I would like to do in the resort if not skiing. I'm not particularly keen on snowshoeing but scuba diving under the ice in Tignes sounds fun.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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clarky999 wrote:
If Innsbruck, you could look at a village outside Innsbruck like Götzens or Axams. A bit quicker for you + son to get to the slopes at eg Axamer Lizum, with option to try other resorts some days as you like, and still only ~10-15 mins (depending where) for your wife to get to the city on the bus or tram.
That's a great idea, I really hadn't thought of that (facepalm). My wife would happily jump on a bus into Innsbruck (or anywhere else). Axamer Lizum is a great little resort with some really nice tree runs and a good fast central gondola. I noted it as a good fit for my son when I was there this year. I'll also check out somewhere near Patscherkofel/Igls because I remember that being pretty good and very close to Innsbruck.
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Origen wrote:
If your wife wrote a list of her 6 favourite things to do, what would they be, @Henwc? People often ask about activities for non skiers without giving any idea what they like doing. For example, I'd not be remotely interested in either shopping or a spa but would like a network of busses or trains to get about. I would also welcome guided walks or snowshoeing, especially if I spoke fluent German. If in self catering accommodation I'd also be happy some days to buy nice stuff and produce us all a super meal ( leaving you to wash up whilst I read a good book with a glass of expensive brandy).


Off the top of my head the top 6 things to do when away from me and my son are (in no particular order):
- Wild/Outdoor swimming somewhere warm
- Hiking (not mountaineering) solo or in a guided group
- One to one socialising with a close friend
- Reading a weighty novel
- Spa and treatments
- Theatre, ballet or live comedy (not Opera)

The Saas Fee trip really did hit 3 or 4 of these but the trip didn't really work. I put this down to my wife feeling left out of the skiing and wanting to make up for it later in the day by doing something together while my son was very tired. I was expecting us to all be tired and happy after having done our thing during the day but it didn't quite work out the way through no fault of my wife.
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I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Zermatt given Saas-Fee was such a success for you, although cost becomes an issue, especially (but not only) for sightseeing lifts which I'm sure your wife would like to experience. It seemed to me that lift prices for skiers are much cheaper than for non-skiers, and I'm not sure if buying a ski lift ticket as a pedestrian is acceptable or not. I think even in winter half the visitors would still be non-skiers so there is plenty to see and do.
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@Perty, Thanks St Martin de Belleville is a good shout, one for the list. Good to know loads of walks, I had assumed much would be closed but forgot it is so low.

@Critical_Al, Thanks I hadn't considered St Anton but the fact it's on a direct major train line is a big plus. Skiing would be a winner too.

@Whitegold, Thanks a couple there that I hadn't considered, I'll note them on my spreadsheet.

@Kenzie, Thanks, yep Tignes seems to have more going on than I thought.

@always29, Thanks, I'll check it out, no doubt Val will have a good list of stuff to do on their website.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Dave of the Marmottes wrote:
I always struggle with these threads because it seems that there is often a moon on a stick list of requirements for the non skier who doesn't like snow-shoeing, spas etc. My usual response would be let the non skier stay home or go on a break with friends somewhere of their preference but I guess that isn't realistic for a mum at Xmas time.

I'd be inclined to suck up a car rental for the skiers for convenience and ski out of Innsbruck. Non skier could take bus up and meet skiers at Patscherkofel and Axamer Lizum a couple of days.
Yes, this is very much a moon on a stick situation. This is why it may be impossible Smile

Our general plan is to never go on a ski trip as a family again for the very good reasons you mention. The downside of that is that my son never gets Christmas on the slopes and I spend 2 weeks compulsory leave over the festive period in UK drizzle.

Having seen a number of posts on other threads highlighting the joys of being in the mountains for Christmas I thought I'd practice the art of the possible and aim for a holiday my wife will like as the priority with some skiing on the side for me and the boy.

I agree about a general Innsbruck based plan being a good shout, although the driving is more down to me not being confident to drive on a ski trip rather issues with car rental. My driving is a possible but fairly long fix due to me not driving for years in the uk.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Fri 5-07-24 11:17; edited 1 time in total
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@rdk, Thanks, I have never been to Zermatt and the rail station would add more options. Sorry I wasn't clear enough about the Saas Fee trip, it was not really a success (original post edited). Saas Fee was great but it didn't work for my wife which I put down to her feeling left out of the skiing, I'm not sure if this would be a terminal issue for a Christmas trip to be honest.
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@Henwc, my initial thought was Innsbruck, and then you mentioned travel times not being great for the Son, but @clarky999 has given you a good suggestion there already.

Then I also thought Zermatt, but of course it's pricey.

My other thought was Zell am See. You'd have the skiing there, plus Kaprun with the glacier, Saalbach-Hinterglemm, and also Maria alm just round the corner also. Plus plenty of other areas also if you travelled more. Your wife would then have Zell am See and the lake to explore, plus fairly easy transfers to Salzburg as well.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Another option might be to not ski everyday wherever you end up! Having organised many family ski/non-skier holidays it seems to me that the key is to spend some days doing what the non-skier/s want all together as a family, and then having some days dedicated to the slopes where the non-skier/s do their own thing. That has worked for us but only because of the willingness to drive in snowy mountain conditions. I`d guess at the right resort you could achieve the same result using public transport.
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swskier wrote:

Then I also thought Zermatt, but of course it's pricey.

TBH I don't think it's any more expensive than the other Swiss resorts mentioned.

I wondered about it, but somehow it doesn't seem to me to offer as much to the non-skier as the Jungfrau area, and honestly at that time of the winter it's quite dark and miserable in the village and the high Swiss side skiing is seriously cold due to the complete absence of sunshine.

Like the others, I've lead holiday groups there, but I've also done a number of BASI courses there, usually in late November (and one Ski Club refresher the week before Christmas). One time my wife was doing an adaptive course so she never once got over onto the sunny Italian side; she was freezing all week.
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
Thanks all, I spoke to my wife and the problem she had with Saas Fee was that it is stuck at the end of the valley surrounded by majestic peaks but quite a faff to get anywhere from. As a skier I feel this is a massive plus for me but I see her point. Edited original post to reflect this.

@swskier, Thanks, Zell am See looks good and a day trip to Salzburg for a would be doable for her from there. Zermatt would most likely have the same problems as Saas Fee I think.

@CaravanSkier, Thanks, yes every other day skiing is an option although it might result in my ski mad son disagreeing, being in a ski resort with open lifts and not skiing would be hard for him (not that I mind putting my foot down). Overall the best plan may be to book him into a block ski school or private lessons to free me up a bit to spend time with my wife.

@Chaletbeauroc, Thanks for the view on Zermatt, kind of fitted with my wife's view of Saas Fee.
snow report



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