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Washing ski wear

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi, I’m wondering what people use to wash ski wear? Are some products better than others? I’ve just bought new stuff for me and the kids and it’s ready for a wash so want to make sure I use decent stuff from the get go. Thanks for any advice!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Rightly or wrongly we use Nikwax Tech Wash and TX proofer. Not had any issues up to now.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Another vote for Nikwax, tech wash when dirty and that seems to re-activate the waterproofing. Re-proof when necessary.

We got a free sample of the Mountain Warehouse own-brand equivalent which seems to have done a good job as well.
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I've never re-proofed any of my gear, jsut stick it in the washer, that said you won't find me skiing in the rain
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Halo Proactive sports wash for soft items (base layers, fleeces, Lycra etc) and Nikwax to re-proof outer layer hard shells.
Whatever washing product you settle on, never use fabric softener.
..Nick
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Nikwax, used according to the instructions, including strictly no softener.
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
I wash everything on a normal 40 degree wash then run a cycle with a re-proofing liquid (that I buy from Great Outdoors or Mountain Warehouse).
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Follow the washing labels, typically 30 deg, no conditioner. I've used Tech wash and pure soap crystals in the past and not noticed any difference to a standard wash. That said, I haven't bothered with my ski jacket and ski trousers this year as they didn't look dirty. I just packed them in the ski bag and put it in the loft. Only washed my base layers and socks.
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I avoid washing my outer layers until they start to pong. After which I use Nikwax tech wash and TX proofer. One item per load otherwise it doesn't re-proof as well. Not so important if you ski but very important for boarders sallies or motorbike kit.
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gixxerniknik wrote:
I avoid washing my outer layers until they start to pong.


This, although they say dirt can affect the water repellency so you should wash them, I find after a wash even in the right stuff they never seem to have as good repellency as they had when first bought.
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I am with Hurtle and Gixx - BUT and it's a big BUT - washing seems always to compromise the DWR. I have not yet tried low iron after washing. Tumbledry to 'meld' the silicon yes, but some instructions after a wash-in reproof are to use a low iron. I am going to try this on some things this Spring....
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@valais2, melted ski wear. Ni-i-ice. wink
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Hmm, I use softener as I just chuck them in with other stuff
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@holidayloverxx, Normal detergent and softener are terrible things, they break down the DWR in no time. But as you say, does it really matter if you don't require them to be waterproof?

Actually normal detergent is pretty bad stuff all round. Most of it contains bleach which is why your jeans lose colour.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Soap flakes. If you can get it. Nikwax Tech Wash is just soft soap at about ten times the price of the stuff I can buy in French Supermarkets.

Assuming, as many of the earlier replies have, that we're talking about outer clothing of the waterproof and breathab;e type.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
I use Nixwax, get it from the local equine places. I am more careful when things are new but it is all a bit old now.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Grangers Performance tech wash for Goretex jackets and pants / synthetics etc at 30degrees followed by tumble dryer at low heat to reinvigorate DWR. Have a specialist detergent for down jackets - also tumble dry at low heat with some spiky dryer balls to re-fluff the fibres. Tech fleeces def worth washing in tech wash or low detergent soap as standard non bio breaks down the fibres and fleeces lose their 'pile' really quickly. Merino / Falke socks again low temp tech wash but line dry or put on the radiator. Synthetic t-shirts/underlayers I normally just use standard non-bio and line dry (they dry quickly anyway) . .

Wash in DWR treatments are not that great IMO - better to use spray on application when the garment is damp after first wash then tumble dry / line dry. Grangers Repel X used to be brilliant but new non-fluro sprays are nowhere near as effective. If you really need to re-proof DWR on old jackets use Diver Daves Repel (you can apply it to anything!) or Fabsil Gold in an atomiser. I wouldn't use fabsil on my 3Layer Arc goretex but do use it on ALL my fishing clothing including synthetic puffas and waterproofs - does affect breathability a little but water just bounces off . . .

Washing makes the DWR more effective - dirt oil and sweat compromises the DWR. Next time you rain test look at the areas that 'wet-out' quickly (usually shoulders where packs are worn / forearms / collar / knees on pants etc) and apply DWR sprays more liberally in those areas . . .
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@Hurtle, ...yes I know it sounds weird but here it is from GoreTex themselves:

https://www.gore-tex.com/blog/restore-durable-water-repellency-raingear

Patagonia has moved from fluorocarbons and heat is not needed for some coatings these days

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durable_water_repellent

Most companies are reviewing the chemical footprint of their DWRs

https://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/blogs/sustainability/dwrs-a-changing-landscape
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Thanks for all the responses everyone, super helpful!
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
gixxerniknik wrote:
@holidayloverxx, Normal detergent and softener are terrible things, they break down the DWR in no time. But as you say, does it really matter if you don't require them to be waterproof?

Actually normal detergent is pretty bad stuff all round. Most of it contains bleach which is why your jeans lose colour.


Which is why I use capsules for black clothes..keeps them black
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@valais2, no, I realise the advice is genuine, I was just thinking of the number of times I've misjudged what a 'cool' iron is. rolling eyes
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
holidayloverxx wrote:
gixxerniknik wrote:
@holidayloverxx, Normal detergent and softener are terrible things, they break down the DWR in no time. But as you say, does it really matter if you don't require them to be waterproof?

Actually normal detergent is pretty bad stuff all round. Most of it contains bleach which is why your jeans lose colour.


Which is why I use capsules for black clothes..keeps them black
What's that got to do with proofing? Or is that just normal thread drift? Laughing
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@Hurtle, cos he said about bleach and losing colour. I'll accept thread drift but he started it Laughing
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
@holidayloverxx, Laughing
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Ski the Net with snowHeads
@Hurtle, ...ah...yes...the horrible feeling of the iron grabbing the fabric....
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
The fat from a steak and cheese pie all down the front of a jacket is actually really good waterproofing. Water just runs straight off it.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Graingers Tech wash for Gortex jackets and sallopettes. Low heat tumble dry afterwards to reactivate DWR. Down jackets washed in specialist down wash - again tumble dry low heat, out every 20 mins to tease the down apart and prevent clumping. Very mellow task !!
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Non down stuff generally gets chucked in the machine with normal detergent and a conventional wash plus extra rinse cycles. Extra mucky parts (collars and cuffs) get neat detergent scrubbed on and left for a few hours first.

If I’m feeling really generous, I’ll reapply a repellency spray after. I’ve occasionally used the wash in stuff and it’s also worked. A mate who works in the industry swears by car upholstery proofer as apparently it is more durable, but I’ve not tried it yet.

My kit has had this treatment for 20+ years, and it’s never damaged anything.

My personal view is there’s a lot of FUD sold for cleaning outdoor kit - “do you want to risk your £300 ski jacket with normal detergent, or would you like my £10/wash snake oil?” If you’re that fussed, you can buy liquid soap flakes for a fraction of the price of the same stuff with a “specialist” label on it.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@snowdave, On the other hand, if you pay out £300 (or often a lot more) for a breathable jacket why would you then throw away the very feature you've paid a lot extra for? It's not a myth, using normal laundry detergent really does reduce both impermeability and breathability. If you're so unbothered by these features then why did you bother paying for them in the first place?

But yes, you're right about the soap, as I posted earlier.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@Chaletbeauroc, I don’t buy £300 ski jackets. Strangely, cheaper ones seem to do the job just as well. And can also be washed happily with normal detergent.

Andy Skurka (for whom fabric performance really matters) on the topic… https://andrewskurka.com/why-im-hard-on-gore-tex-the-king-of-hype-tm/
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Quote:

Nikwax Tech Wash is just soft soap at about ten times the price of the stuff I can buy in French Supermarkets.

That's interesting......

As for base layers, socks, fleeces etc, they go in with the usual stuff (something like Waitrose Essential or Tesco). I don't see any point in using some "sports" magic for them.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
All my ski base layers and other stuff are things I use all year round for sailing or other outdoor stuff. Doesn't need any special treatment and it seems to last forever.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Origen wrote:
Quote:

Nikwax Tech Wash is just soft soap at about ten times the price of the stuff I can buy in French Supermarkets.

That's interesting......

As for base layers, socks, fleeces etc, they go in with the usual stuff (something like Waitrose Essential or Tesco). I don't see any point in using some "sports" magic for them.


We've used "liquid soap flakes" for some time now. Often branded in different trade colours, but usually same supply though. Very gentle for many items, with no perfume included.

Last bought some from "The Range" near Chichester as they've bought all Wilko stock and selling it at about 1/3 price, even better value Very Happy
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