![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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I just got some G3 86 wide skis in some sales. I was trying to save some money and have some Head SX10 bindings (max DIN 10) manufactured 2012.
So, I know they are out of date but they haven't been used much: maybe 10 ski days and then been sitting in some drawers for around 8 years!
Main question is, for my weight 95kg, edit: most recommend a binding din range of max 12 to 14.
Could I use these or is it really time to update technology wise.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 2-04-24 15:27; edited 2 times in total
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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I suggest you check again; using https://www.dincalculator.com/ I have to put it a tiny boot sole length, max height, weight and ability level to get it as high as 10. More reasonable guesses for you values give results from as low as e.g. 8 if you're a size 10 or so foot .
Anything higher than 10 would be strictly for the professionals, IMO. I have mine on 8.5; I'm slightly lighter but at the max height and with size 10.5 feet.
In any case, you should probably get the bindings checked by a professional. They will test the release settings are still within specification. (Here in CH you can get it done for free at many ski shops and they'll put a nice little sticker on your ski to remind you when it was last done.)
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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I meant the max din range.
I set my DIN to 8 but most recommend the actual binding DIN range have a max of 12-14 (ie 0 to 14) not to be set at that for actual skiing.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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OIC.
I'm no expert on this, but I always thought the advice for buying higher than you need was in case, when tested, they had lost some of their spring, such that you'd need to set them higher, i.e. put them on 10 to get a 'real' tested 8. But I've never known this to happen, so I suspect it may be based on antiquated equipment where this was possible.
It's in the manufacturers' interest to let this myth, if such it is, continue, so they sell more expensive bindings than are actually necessary. Conspiracy theory much? Well maybe, but I've never actually seen anything credible to support the idea that you need to go significantly higher than your actual setting. I'd be as interested as you if anyone can find anything to back it up.
I looked into this just a little bit a few weeks ago when I bought some new off-piste skis off t'internet that came in a bundle with bindings rated at max 11. For my normal setting of 8.5 I decided there was no point whatsoever spending extra to get the optional 14 or 15 binding, which would also have added an extra half kilo per ski, or thereabouts.
One other thing worth checking though is whether the old ones you have are compatible with your boots - if you've got GripWalk boots, for instance, it's quite possible that the older bindings may not work correctly with them.
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