 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi all
So back from a weeks trip to Val D'Isere on a package with Ski Vertigo. Hopefully this review might pop up in the google search as there aren't currently many reviews for them!
Previous reports:
Levi 2024
Les Menuires 2023
Montiond 2023
Mayrhofen 2022
Les Crosets 2020
Val Di Fassa 2020
Saalbach 2019
La Tania 2019
La Plagne 2018
Montgenvre 2017
Package - Ski Vertigo
Destination - Val D'Isere
Accommodation - Chalet Columbia (part of the Residence Canadienne building)
Ski hire (and locker) - Intersport Mattis
Dinner (staff night off) - Le Lodge
Ski lesson - TDC
Pre holiday - So I'm in charge of booking our group ski trips and normally lean towards DIY. However this year, due to various reasons I just didn't have the time (or energy) required to put together a trip for 8! We had a few pre-requisites for our trip the main one being an area we hadn't been to before, as high as possible due to the late season booking and the accommodation somewhat nicer than our AirBnB last year that let us down big time. I stumbled on Ski Vertigo and initially was hesitant due to their fairly short amount of time being in existence and lack of reviews so far. However, after a bit of digging and seeing that they are part of the very well regarded Ski Famille group we decided to take the plunge and book. Due to a couple of drop outs we only had 6 of us and Ski Vertigo had a catered chalet for 6 with an outdoor hot tub which is quite a rarity.
Everything was smooth and as you'd expect from booking with a TO and can't really fault the pre-holiday bits with them!
Flights - Chartered flights with BA from Heathrow terminal 5. No option to check-in online or pre-book seats as the norm with chartered flights. Couldn't have gone smoother. Through check in and security in about 20 minutes. A quick breakfast and a very smooth flight, landing on time at Lyon. 5 minutes through passport control and a similar wait for our luggage. Onto the coach with a maybe a further 15 minute wait for the other passengers and we were away. No traffic at all, so the journey only took 3 and a half hours putting us into resort about 2:30/3:00pm. It was literally the smoothest, easiest outward journey I think I've ever done. I know a lot of that is subject to stuff like weather, roadworks etc but hey....I'll take it!
We were dropped right outside the apartments and helped up with our luggage.
Accommodation - Residence Canadienne I believe is a reasonably newish building complex about a 5 -7 minute walk from the front de neige in the village. The communal areas are clean, modern and functional. Ski storage and boot heaters on the ground floor for each apartment (with locks on so secure). The chalet (well apartment) was modern, comfy and spacious enough for the number of us in there. All the rooms were en-suite (one with a bath and shower) with a separate WC just off the corridor just in case the 10 second walk back to your room was too far! The rooms were ok size, with generous bathrooms. The showers were hot, powerful and very nice. We had a hot tub on the balcony which was under cover. I would say this was the only negative (and I use that word loosely) that the hot tub was really only big enough for 2 adults. 3 at a squeeze. Such first world problems! This wasn't too much of an issue for 6 of us as we could organise and take it in turns (however, if you were last in then the water temp would have dropped off). So don't think that you'll all be in the hot tub with a beer relaxing together! However, it was topped up and cleaned daily so top marks for that!
Food - Let's be honest, chalet food can vary massively. The companies need to make a profit and the meals are planned out to the exact gram. I'm pleased to say that the food was the best I've had from a large TO run chalet. We've had better with an independent chalet provider but paid much more for it. The food from our hosts was plentiful, well cooked, tasty and varied. Breakfast was the usual affair (a selection of cereal, pastries, yoghurt and eggs/bacon cooked to your liking). I'm a tea drinker but our coffee drinkers appreciated the coffee pod machine which was free to use at will. The apres-ski cakes was all blooming lovely. A glass of prosecco with a different canape led onto a 3 course meal. The favourites of our group were the pork medallion and the curry! The wine was free flowing with a choice of a couple of reds and whites. There was also an honsety bar but we bought our own pack of beer from the shop for the week and kept it out on the balcony.
Hosts - I thought Brex-poo had scuppered British passport holders from doing seasons as per before the vote in better times. And a lot of catered chalets have disappeared. So it was actually quite nice to see young people doing a gap season and experiences the highs (and lows) of being away from home, working hard and developing skills for later in life (god I sound old!). As per the norm the average age of all the staff was around 20 or so. And when I was that age, I struggled to cook beans on toast for myself let alone cook all week for paying customers. Everyone we met from Ski Vertigo was just a pleasure really. And our hosts we spot on and joined in with some friendly banter (I hate that word).
Location - As mentioned, it's about a 5-7 walk to the pistes/lifts. Far enough away to be quiet at night but close enough so that it is just walkable in ski boots (or you can jump on the superb bus service). Despite the storage in the building being perfectly useable, we hate walking in ski boots. And it's easier to partake in a bit of apres if you aren't lumbered with skis etc at the end of the day. So We rented a locker from Intersport Mattis where we also hired our skis from. But plenty of people did the walk in boots. There is B'Bar and Le Garage less than 30 seconds away for a quick pit stop on the way home (as well as plently of other options on the way closer to the village centre).
Ski Hire - Many, many recommendations for Snowberry. But at nearly £70 more per set of skis than virtually any other shop in the village I just couldn't understand how they could justify that price (and actually some reviews were quite negative of them). For that amount extra, I'd expect them to come with a butler to put them on my feet every morning. The slopeside shop also seemed in a more difficult location than where we ultimately went for, Intersprot Mattis. We booked online and collected our skis the afternoon before. It was simple enough, the shop was busy but not as manic as some shops I've been in before on change over day! Ski rental comes with ski storage in the shop, but not boots. So we also rented a 4 person locker for 120 euros for the week. Some might say that is steep, but I've paid 30 euros for a single person locker in many other resorts so this seemed in line with other places. We rented all mountain skis due to the weather forecast for the week. My friend got a lovely pair of Black Crows and I got a pair of Dynastar M-Pro 90s. Whilst there were a few scuffs on the top of skis (to be expected after a season of use), the edges were sharp and wax fresh. We were both very happy. Personally, I actually fell in love with the Dynastars. They skied lovely. On piste, they allowed me to carve and really get the "flying" feeling down the piste on the groomers. Off piste (and in fresh snow on-piste) they provided enough float to really enjoy the fresh powder we had. If I were to buy a pair of skis, I think they would be high up my list.
Lesson - It's been a while since I'd had a lesson so was keen to brush up on a few bits. A couple of our group were in the same boat so a PM to our resident expert Steve Angus at TDC was sent. Unfortunately, Steve was fully booked but we ended up booking a 3 hour private lesson with Kieran. What a great 3 hours we had. After a brief ski and chat about what we were after from the time, it was decided to make hay whilst the snow was falling and tidy up our powder skiing. What followed was a engaging and very useful session with Kieran taking us round the hill, finding some hidden gems of untracked snow (even at 2-3pm in the afternoon!). We all felt that that our skills and confidence increased so if you are looking for lessons then I'd thoroughly recommend!
Dinner - Kieran also recommended us Le Lodge for dinner. And it turned out to be a hell of a suggestion. We were a bit unsure when we walked through the door and down a corridor towards a velvet curtain. But when we pulled that back the smell of beef, cheese and wine hit us. The restaurant is lovely, traditional savoyard affair and very reasonably priced for the quality of the food. The cote de boeuf I shared with one our of group was one of the best pieces of steak I have eaten.
So after all that, I should talk about....
The skiing - Well save to say...I loved it. The Val/Tinges area is now up there in my list of favourite areas. I think it's only let down by a lack of decent on piste eateries in comparison to other areas (and by decent, I mean not self service. It may sound a bit snobby but I really don't like the canteen feeling places. I have to get my own food at home...I'm on holiday! Bring me my food!). I know it's subjective but I do think the area has something for everyone. Some lovely cruisey blues, challenging reds and black, some long descents as well as such easily accessible side and off piste. Can get up high for quality snow, or head down into the tree runs for if the weather is a bit pants.
We got lucky with the snow conditions. Some fresh snow prior to our arrival and a lowering temperature meant that the pistes were still in good condition despite an overall not very good season across the Alps for snow. However throughout the week, we had some fantastic top ups pretty much every day. Ok some of the snow was a bit wet but beggars can't be choosers! After a decent dump Sunday afternoon, Monday was a bluebird day and powder rules applied. That day was probably one of the best day's I've had on a hill. The pistes were amazing and the off piste just blooming fun. I think it was also helped that there was a band playing at Rosee Blanche at the end of day. And then another band in Bar XV. Many beers were drunk and dinner turned into a bit of a blur....but when in Rome!
Throughout the rest of the week, we skied in every type of weather apart from rain (so I'm not complaining!). The wind did start to pick up the last few days (leading to the higher lifts shutting on the last day) and when we ventured up above Le Fornet to the glacier, we actually couldn't see any piste markers at one point on the Cascade piste. Now that was an experience!
I mentioned about the lack of on piste eateries, once place I really liked was Le Trifollet. Always seemed very busy which is a good sign and we had a couple of lunches there which we enjoyed.
Some of my favourite runs were:
Orange - just a nice run down to La Daille and nicely sheltered.
Rhone Alpes - a fun black which I thought was better (and certainly less busy that M!)
L - An enjoyable red down to Le Laisinant.
Johan Clarey - a thoroughly enjoyable black down to Tignes.
Glacier down onto Double M - a long red down from the top with great views.
Leisse - so good with fresh snow, we did it twice back to back. So much fun.
Sache - wow what a run down to Les Brevieres.
The Village - really enjoyed the feel of Val. I know it's pricey and probably not everyone's cup of tea. But I certainly would return. I would also consider La Daille as a base. Easier return runs to get home (because Santons is rubbish) and the buses are so easy and frequent to get into the village for dinner etc it is a good option.
To summarise, we had a fab week and would recommend Ski Vertigo if you are after a package catered chalet holiday.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Fridge03, great TR.
How do you think Val D/Tignes compares with the 3V? If you had to choose one?
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| PeakyB wrote: |
@Fridge03, great TR.
How do you think Val D/Tignes compares with the 3V? If you had to choose one? |
Thank you!
Difficult one. No where can really match the 3V for the shear size of the area and the amount of runs available and the two trips I've done there I've loved it. I can see why people go back every year. But I think Val/Tignes pushes it hard, probably just falling down for on mountain eateries and maybe people seeking a more "village" feel. 3V has lots of more "traditional" style villages as and just more location options I guess. Where as outside of Val and les Brevieres, its purpose built locations which aren't that pretty to look at.
But the skiing is defo on a par with the 3V.
We don't like to go back to the same resort. We got into skiing much later than we should have, and with the amount of resorts out there we want to visit as many as possible but both the 3V and Val/Tignes will always be on my radar for a re-visit especially for a later season trip!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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I love trip reports. Loads of great experiences being shared.
Thanks for taking the time and effort.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Great report. Thank you for writing it up.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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An excellent read. Thanks. 
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Really interesting read. I'm surprised at the observations re. lack of on mountain restaurants with table service. I've always had the impression that Val d'Isere was particularly well provided with those. They're not something I'd generally choose, though, so might have got that wrong.
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Echoing above. Thanks for taking the time to write a great report... you've put Ski Vertigo more on my radar thats for sure - a new comer to the resort in last few years but good to hear nice things about them! I passed on your comments to Kieran - yes K LOVES a good steak at Le Lodge - we used to have a regular TDC Friday evening feed their years back before most of us became parents (and older!). Like sugarmoma666 says I was surprised re lack of non self service places to eat comment - there are a fair few out there - IMO I think its other way around - not enough self service places but interesting observation!
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@sugarmoma666, @Steve Angus, may have just been me. Just didn't seem to be a huge choice vs the amount of KMs in the ski area (without dropping into a village). But it was only a very minor point. Loved the area as a whole.
Thanks for the comments everyone.
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@Fridge03, Glad you had a great time. I met a Vertigo Rep 2 years ago. He explained it was a mini brand to attract folks who might be put off by a chalet full of young families. Vertigo to reflect the altitude of their operations (Tignes, Val D, Val T and Reberty 2000.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Excellent report @Fridge03.
| Quote: |
| Vertigo to reflect the altitude of their operations |
And hopefully not the prices 
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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What and excellent report ... thanks for taking the time to write this. I have to slightly agree on the mountain restaurants point, there are plenty (Edelweiss, Peau de Vache, Signal and L'Armailly for example) but definitely not as many as in Meribel or Courchevel.
We have been going to the 3Vs each February HT religiously for the last 25 years whilst "only" spending another 10 weeks or so in Val d'Isere during the same time. I would say that the 3Vs are now becoming a victim of their own success - this is reflected in how busy, runs and restaurants are (particularly at peak periods), the level of new development, prices etc.
There is something special about Val though - it's a lovely / proper mountain village in itself (if you haven't been in the summer you're missing out) and the quality and variety of the skiing is superb.
We would definitely look at Vertigo now.
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Super
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FAQ
