ArgentiereUCPA - Weekend Ski Trip 3 day - February 2024.

A snowHead

A snowHead

ArgentiereUCPA - Weekend Ski Trip 3 day - February 2024.

Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?

ArgentiereUCPA - 3 Day Weekend Ski Trip - February 2024. Report thing.

I flew out from Bristol Airport on easyjet. I had parked in the silverzone parking and got on the bus to the airport. Silverzone parking is efficient but it was all automated so it was a bit confusing working out how to post my keys in the post box. The days of parking outside the airport and walking over are sadly long gone. I only had hand luggage so had already checked in many days prior. This was a bit of a problem as you can only take a medium sized rucksack onto the plane now. I was only going for three nights so there was enough room in my bag, just! I saw that many people took their helmets onto the flight with them, they werent made to put them on. I wore my snow boots on the flight, my ski jacket, ski mid layer and my salopettes. It was pretty hot in the airport and i got very sweaty very quickly. It was pretty tight packing everything in and i had to carry my book, that i almost left on the car park bus. I prioritized skiing gear over day wear, but managed to cram in a pair of light walking trousers, a pair of slip on shoes, a couple of tshirts, some shorts to sleep in and a travel towel along with the rest of my skiing gear that included my skiing backpack. In hindsight it wouldve been wise to book a bigger cabin bag, but it was handy travelling with just a backpack. (It didnt save me any time waiting for my bags at geneva or bristol because i had to wait for my transfer in Geneva with peole collecting skis etc, and there was a huge passport control queue in Bristol so the bags had already arrived once we passed through that. It was handy and saved time not having to queue up for the bag drop however.) Bristol airport was heaving - it really is too small for the numbers of flights now. Security was ok, but the bar was packed - and no where to have to obligatory holiday pint. I did queue in the little side bar and managed to get in their for an £8 pint. Unfortunately my flight was delayed by an hour so it was pretty dull waiting about in the airport. There is a Starbucks now downstairs which is pretty good.

I elected to get a door to door transfer with mountain dropoffs. This was because i was staying in argentiere and the night bus in chamonix looked pretty ropey. I was a bit worried as our flight was an hour late. A few of the other bus companies stands were absent but mountain transfers was manned by my polite driver, Seb. In a few minutes about 7 of us were in the minibus ready to leave. They had enough for our bristol flight for its own minibus it seemed. Seb was a great driver, despite his terrible taste in music. After a few drops in Chamonix we were in Argentiere. When i arrived in Chamonix it was pretty obvious that i didnt need my snow boots or my thicker morino wool inners, or any of the jumpers i had brought! I had tried to book a few air bnbs before i went with UCPA but many wouldnt allow a late check in. Fortunately the UCPA seemed well prepared for this, although reception was closed when i arrived. I used the codes i had been given to get in. Changed into my PJs in the toilet, and brushed my teeth. I promptly went into my dorm and crashed on the one bed left. Everyone else was just getting into bed at 11pm. (A girl did ask if i was in the correct room, but i definitely was. I worked out the following day that we were all on the 3 day no instruction skiing).

I had had a great night’s sleep and someone’s alarm went off at about 7am. I was with 4 well behaved people from Belgium who seemed a bit older and wiser...definitely not party animals thank goodness. It was a bit annoying as there was one female, so i didnt feel comfortable getting changed in the room so i changed in the shower. Note to self next time to take a plastic bag to hang on the back of the door with your clean clothes in. The showers were clean, warm, and had a drying seat to get changed on. I didnt have to queue for them either. I c hecked in with a very pleasing receptionist and went for breakfast. The breakfast was pretty good (although no fresh eggs or fresh yoghurt due to the farmers strikes). Juices, coffee, cereals, breads, yoghurts and fresh fruit were all on offer. There was also powdered screambled eggs and sausages. The clientele was pretty mixed, i certainly was not the oldest at 39. There were some serious looking types who were obviously going far off piste, and some people who were going trekking. There was a real mix of nationalities, obviously a lot of french, but many people speaking German, English, and there were quite a few chinese girls as well. (a few chinese boys, but mainly girls for some reason.) Im not sure how full to hostel was but it has four floors of rooms so i must hold quite a number of people.

There was a full ski shop at the hostel with all the machines for preparing skis etc. I went to get my included equipment but because i had arrived in the middle of the week, it was a bit sparse. I asked the man for my size 260/265 305 length but he just kept asking my shoe size. To be honest ive never had a problem before, even in italy where they spoke no english but i couldnt get it through. He produced some boots that were too big so i asked him for smaller but wider ones. He found some round the back but left me too it. (theyve always helped me check before). They seemed better so i kept them. He then asked for my height in CMs but didnt have any 160 skis. So he grabbed some 150s, but offered me 170s. We agreed on 150s. I asked if they had a good edge but he either didnt understand or ignored me. When i went to the well spec’d equipment room (with heated boot warmers) it was obvious that there was some decent equipment, just that i didnt get it.

As i only had a few weeks skiing experience i decided to go to Le Tour with it's easier blues. I couldve gone to Les Houches as UCPA include an ultimate lift pass (with megeve and the du midi lift pass) but it wouldve taken an age to get there. (When i drove home at the end of the week i was stunned to see all the hills of Les Houches were green with grass!) The bus stop is almost right outside the UCPA and the train station is in the car park. The ski bus came in about 5-10mins I hopped on the bus in my ski boots and within a few minutes i was at the foot ot the Le Tour bubble. I shared the bubble with a frenchman who mentioned something but when i said i didnt speak much french he went very quiet. Id brought my packed lunch from breakfast as provided by UCPA and i intended to ski hard. It had been six years since id done any skiing and it was with some trepidation that i ski'd or ploughed down the gentle slope to the first chair lift. I had yellow and dark goggles for the trip, it was quite dark to i elected for yellow. I dropped my bag trying to get onto the chair lift which was pretty embarrassing, but i soon found myself at the top. I decided to ease myself in on liason balme. Liason Balme is a long winding blue thats more of a roadway that a slope. There was plenty of snow but it was pretty hard packed. It was a nice gentle way to find my ski legs but it was pretty busy and narrow and people were wizzing all around me. I made my way back via retour charamillion and went on the les autannes lift. I looped around again and was beginning to enjoy myself. All those first day nerves made me decide to get a coffee at Charamillion. The barman insisted on speaking english to me despite me practicing French in my head in the queue. I went and sat in the sunshine and a great view of the alps, with my coffee and pan o choc.... There is a picnic area inside underneath the cafe and a paid restaurant and cafe up the top. It's the only cafe on the eatery on the mountain but a good one. After that i went via liaison balme and skied down to l'aiguillette rope run. Naturally i fell over trying to use the tow. I felt like a complete wally, but fortunately i waited until no one else was anywhere near me to use it! I managed it on the second go, but the run down was barely worth it so i curled round to the left to the les esserts run. This was my favourite run of the mountain. (I didnt try any red given it was my first time skiing for 6 years.). It's a wide run through the trees that genuinely was fun to ski down. At the end you go up the chair lift to the top of tete de balme. Apparently solonges is a good run here but i went down bechat. It is wideish but the snow was pretty compact and i found it hard work going down. It was at this point that i found out that one of the buckles on my ski boot was broken. I realised this was what the frenchman earlier on was telling me about. I half my lunch at the picnic at the bottom, then i ski’d to the cafe at the top of charamillion to eat the rest in the picnic area inside the cafe. I did a few more loops of liason balme down to les esserts and back around via bechat then called it a day because i was pretty exhausted! I decided against skiing down the return, but everyone else did and it looked great fun. I went down on the bubble. I queued for the bus for about 5 mins and got the short trip back to the UCPA. Id ski'd until i dropped! When i got back i grabbed a quick shower - the showers are good with plenty of room for drying and a seat to get dressed, but take a plastic bag to hang on the door with your clean clothes. I had tea in the UCPA which was a buffet affair, fair play the food was very wholesome and tasty. They allow you to bring you own wine in from the shop, but the small supermaket around the corner is very expensive so it’s hardly worth it. The bar sold pichets of wine that were decent value although i stuck to water. I did find it hard to talk to people, but i later realised theyd all been there since saturday and had their own friend groups already set up. I went to bed very early and had a tremendous night’s sleep. I was completely shattered. My fellow dormers were very quiet and didnt cause a disturbance to me.

After my tasty breakfast with a view of mont blanc, i decided i would walk to grand montets instead of getting the decent buses somewhere. The sun was shinning today and i felt up for the challenge, and i felt id done most of le tour the day before. Before i went out i had to change my ski boots. That wasn't so bad as some people were going home and had returned their boots. The boot man found me an identical pair and swapped them. The bubble is a short walk from the ucpa...about 5 minutes. A bit of a pain in ski boots but no bother. I did actually walk in my flip flops and put them in my bag, but i walked home in my boots. The bubble was quiet even though id made it for 8am. The snow was better than le tour, mainly because it's shadier here being northish facing. However that meant you were in the shade for a lot of the day, expect in the afternoon on the arolles run toward the cafe at the right. Out of interest i didnt see any apres happening here, in fact argentiere is pretty quiet. There are a few bars, a bakery and a shop, but certainly not any music or apres fun. I warmed up on marmottons, which is a pretty wide straight blue. It's a really nice run on the main slope of the mountain. To loop around, you avoid the telecabin and ski around it down pradian. Then you can take the tabe chairlift back up the top of it. I tried coqs but the top of more of a road, and the middle and bottom were pretty hard packed in with snow. It wasn't my favourite run. Afterward i went down arolless which is a track/road like run down to the little cafe. It's a really is a pretty run, but it is pretty small and road like. In the morning it was pretty hard packed, but by the afternoon it was actually a bit slushly and lovely to ski on. It's longer that it looks on the piste map, and the chair lift at the bottom to take you back up is pretty slow. It was lovely and peacefully quiet on the runs i did. In fact i was surprised how quiet the whole place was really. Having watched people ski down bouchard i decided it was time to give it a go, the bottom looked easy enough. I was feeling much better on my ski's, especially with all my buckles on my boot done up! After arriving in the bubble, the views at the top were breath taking. From here you could also see flagere in the distance in beautiful sunshine. The skieers looked like ants, the alps really are impressive! The piste was pretty steep and icy, but fortunately no mogels that always trip me up. The first part was much steeper than i imagined and i did chicken out and side slip down the rather steep initial incline. Fortunately it soon got wider and gentler, certainly not a run for a snow plough. The problem is the best runs are at the top of the mountains and here those runs are reds. I enjoyed it, decided not to push my luck on any more runs, especially not pierre ric and made my way down in the bubble. I went back to the UCPA for an excellent buffett lunch, and a shower and change. I resisted the strong urge for nap instead getting an espresso at the bar to perk me up. You have to pre-order that you were staying for lunch, but they never counted us in or out...i think it was just to get an idea of numbers for the cooks so not too much was wasted.
I couldve got the train into flagere but i got the bus. The bus was there in 5 minutes of me arriving at the bus stop, and within 15 minutes i was at the foot of the flagere bubble. There was no snow at all at ground level in chamonix, and the black run home had more grass on it than snow. In fact for much of the bubble up i was surrounded by grass. Flagere had a really different atmosphere to Argentiere and le tour. It was much more chilled, and being south facing, sunny, and more fun loving! To give you an idea, when i got up the top i was asked, in school french, to take a picture for a group of American girls. There were lots more families and young people here than the other resorts, and it was much much busier. I decided to warm up on the green run trappe. It actually had quite a nasty hard packed corridor to get to it, which is quite narrow, twisty and in the shade. It's only a few meters but quite a few people were struggling. Once on it though it was a lovely wide green run. On the other side of the lift which serves it, is a ski park type run. I really enjoyed it and wouldve gone straight to do it again but there was a huge queue to get up the return trappe lift so i didnt bother. Whilst on the lift, shared with a group of girls, i could see the chavanne run, but it actually looked pretty steep, and there were mogels at the bottom. So i decided to go on index to ski on crouches. When i got off the lift someone tumbled right in front of me off it, i cant think what that lift must be like in peak season! At the top of the mountain the views were stunning. I stopped and had a drink, and then ski'd via the access run to crouches.
Crouchues is an absolutely stunning run, and very separate from the rest of the mountain. I really did feel at peace here. There was a great off piste bowl section to ski around, but obviously i took the pisted run. A warning here, crouchues is pretty steep and the first part of it was a rather steep icy drop. A group of girls got completely stuck here and there's no way out! I slipped down it, and then it opens out a bit into a delightful red. It was pretty quiet except the occasional skiers whizzing past me. It’s a glorious long run, with a few death mogels through in for fun. I decided to carry on and do they whole thing to the bottom. remuaz haut connection was quite pretty, but towards the end of crouchues with the bottom is sight there was wall of mogels on a steep section. By now i had conquered steep hard packed slopes, but these mogels thrown in as an extra made it were pretty tough. I finally made it down, and i felt like a hero...i cant help but thinking anywhere else and this wouldve been a black run. This must have been the best run ive been on, for a while. By now the queue had died down for trappe, so i went back to the gondala station and decided to ski down everetts to and get the cable car over to brevetts and go down to chamonix on the other side. I quite enjoyed evettes and towards the bottom it is tree lined, but it was narrow in places, and the snow wasnt as good as up the top. It was almost deserted mind except for people getting accross to brevetts. I made it well in time for the last cable car, but i was pretty tired and decided to get the evettes lift back up. I skid down evettes top to the gondala which was uneventful until the last 100 yards. Here to get down to the gondala required skiing down some very deep mogels. The slope was littered with flotsum and getsum as beginners fell over and crashed. The mogels were so deep, and there was so much traffic that i did fall at one point, yards from the lift. I finally made it, and got in the queue down to the bottom. Once there i walked over to the bus stop to wait for the bus. The first one was full so i had to wait a good 20 mins to get back, but the sun was shining and the tunes were playing from a nearby bar so it was quite pleasant. However it certainly wasn't a mountain top bar place to have a beer, the bar looked more like one in bristol town centre to be honest!

At the UCPA I did the shower shimmy change in the shower, then had tea. There were new people who had arrived today and lots of people had gone home. I was able to chat to a few people, mainly french, who had newly arrived. I managed to make a friend to a frenchman from toulose who was there for two weeks snow baording. After this i went to watch the rugby for a bit, wales were playing scotland. The man in the local bar, underneath residence bellview refused to speak french and spoke to me in english. I didnt have much choice on bars at that was the only one showing the rugby. Argentiere really is pretty quiet. He sold me a glass of wine for 8 euros (ive never spent more than about 3 before in france!) and i sat down to watch the ruby with another pairs of brits. A bit later on, a load of "london" types came in and ordered chandies and pints in english. To get away from mini britain I decided to head into chamonix on the train which was easy, I had a wander around to take in the atmosphere but no where looked tempting. I went back to the nigh bus stop, and had to wait an hour for a non-existent bus. After this hour, whilst waiting with about 30 people, it was evident that the bus wasnt serving that stop, so we all walked to another. After about an hour and a half of waiting i finally boarded a bus home for about 3 euros. Sadly the trains stop at about 8:30 and taxis to take you the 10 minute journey are about 50 euros! Argentiere really is a bit of a faff to get to in the evening. Fortunately when i got in my bunkmates were already getting ready for bed, so after doing another bathroom change shimmy, i read my book for a bit and went to sleep. Now i can’t remember if it was that night or the night before, but the hostel put on an incredibly loud disco. It started at about 11pm and carried on until 4.30am in the morning. It really was pumping in the dorm, but fortunately, despite waking up every hour or two, i slept through it. The others in the room were not so lucky. The next day was either full of people moaning, or gossping about who had enjoyed it etc. Anyway i slept through it fortunately.

You need to Login to know who's really who.

My final day, and at breakfast i sat next to my french pal, and he suggested as he had no lessons we go to grand montets together. we walked from the hostel to the lift in our gear and made it for the first lift, there was a short queue but it was pretty quiet. the sun was shining but we were in the shade. By now I had ditched my merino mid layer and just ski’d in my thinner helly hansen base layer and coat. To be honest I hadn’t really felt cold on the whole trip. My friend told me the snow, although hard packed, seemed pretty good and i agreed. We warmed up on marmottons, a nice wide run, then marmottons, then we went down bouchard, my favourite run here. My friend was able to critique me, and of course i was told to lean forward more, keep my skis parallel and do a pole plant to help with this. I did try and keep up with him when he went in front for a bit and almost crashed, how do they made it look so easy? On the third day my lips were starting to crack and my legs were begging to ache from all the pressing. We ski'd down lognan together for lunch, and i had a delightful hot luncheon. Lognan is actually a really nice slope, with good snow as its no over used. I went for an espresso in the bar (no coffees with lunch, the staff were watching the les houches slalom, the other races had been cancelled due to lack of snow) i went back. I wanting to go to flagere for some sun, but it wouldve been a bit of a dash as my return transfer was at 4:30pm. Id had to clear out of my room earlier, but i was still allowed to use the shower etc and store my bag. I decided to stick to blues and make sure i didnt push my luck. i ski'd down marmottes and then went up on tabe and went down arolles. The slope here is in the sun, and the snow was getting a bit slushy. I enjoyed skiing in it. At the bottom i had a delighful beer in the glorious sunshine, what a way to finish my holiday. it was about 3 now so i decided to ski home down lognan. In hindsight this was a bit of a mistake as i was pretty tired and it's quite a long way! I had roughly 30 to 45 mins to get down it, which seems plenty of time but probably wasnt wise. It was much steeper than i remembered, although i was really trying to lean forward to link my turns well. I must had stopped four or five times, and on each stop i couldnt believe how much time had passed. There really is nothing like skiing to make you lose yourself. Unfortunately i was pressed for time, not wise really, the last thing i wanted to do was get stuck on the mountain. When I made it to the end and i was completely jubilant and had a smile from ear to ear. Sadly it was time to go home, so i had my last mini coke (that id bought in the shop the day before) as a celebration and went to the hostel for my transfer. I gave my equipment and pass back at the hotel, the reason id had to ski grand motents. I had a quick shower, which was great considering id checked out, and read my book whilst i waited. i had to wear my salopettes and snow boots for space which was a bit annoying considering how hot it was outside, and the lack of snow at resort level. Bang on time my transfer arrived at 4pm. It seemed to be too early really and i was his first pick up. After the fourth loop around chamonix to pick up passengers i realised why he was so early for me, it really was pretty awful. It must have been an hour looping around, and around chamonix's one way system. Given that everyone couldve walked the ten mins to a central point this really was a bit of a pain. Fortunately i managed to kip on the journey. Once in geneva i was through security in minutes. They didnt seem to be doing a full on as search as bristol so much for allowing plenty of time, still id only missed out on 30 mins or so skiing. I did have go through passport control at geneva, as well as back home mind which added more time. Geneva airport was absolutely rammed, there was hardly anywhere to sit and i had three hours to kill. There was however a really tasty and popular looking italian restaurant. For 20 swiss frances i had an absolutely delicious carbonara. It was soon time to queue up for the flight, and i was surprised again that most people were carrying their helmets with them as well as a small bag. At the gate i had to get all my gear back into my one rucksack, that was a bit of a tight squeeze but i managed it for the 9pm flight. Before long i was in bristol waiting for a the car park bus. What a mini adventure! I arrived home at about midnight. I did pay for it for a few days from she who must, who was obviously jealous, but i was thankfully she’d encouraged me to go. I spent the next few days and nights dreaming of my ski trip, and sailing down the reds. If anyone is thinking of doing a short trip, i would say go for it. I had ski'd until i dropped in the glorious sun.

Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.

FYI you're allowed a duty free bag as well... so you can go and buy something in DF/WHSmith/Boots like a paper or a meal deal and get away with stashing things like your book and water bottle in there.

"Yes, you can bring one duty-free bag with airport shopping onboard in addition to your hand luggage."

I don't think I have ever needed snow boots for Cham/Argentiere. Even when it snows it isn't like you have to really walk anywhere (except for skiing in ski boots) whilst staying at UCPA so no worries about wearing trainers.

You'll need to Register first of course.

im just impressed someone read this. it wasnt supposed to be quite so long and dull!
yes i think next time id be more hardcore on the duty free bags, i used the automatic tills.
In an emergency i couldve got loads in my ski coat. i was surprised how much i could cram in. I couldve gone to the laundrette if id stayed a week.

Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...

I think your detailed account will be useful to people thinking about UCPA, @llywelyn1984. We've had very few reports about what it's like actually living, sleeping, eating and showering in UCPA. Your whole account is very positive, too, without glossing over the difficulties, like being on your own. Glad you enjoyed it so much!

After all it is free

@llywelyn1984, nice work and a great report. I've been to that UCPA too and I thought it was great all round (even the disco!) I went for a week and the value is excellent. A detailed trip report like yours is only doable for a short trip like this otherwise it's a long rambling story which could be a drag!! Thanks.

*Ski* the Net with snowHeads

Enjoyed reading your report. Brought back lots of memories - I was the Ski Club of GB rep there for a number of weeks, over several seasons, late 90s /early 2000s. Not sure if it's still there, but The Office bar was the place to go, back then..!

Help!!

ArgentiereUCPA - Weekend Ski Trip 3 day - February 2024.

snowHeads Forum Index >>> Resort Reviews and Trip Reports