 Poster: A snowHead
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Many years ago I spent three weeks rock climbing in the Dolomites. We climbed an incredible rock tower and a nearby Reinhold Messner route on an adjacent rock face. This was in the summer. It was at the top of a plateau with a very steep road that went in for several miles through forest to reach it. There was a refuge / restaurant at the top and dozens of very fit cyclists clad in lycra who didn’t seem to sweat and lots of touring motorbikes ridden by leather clad riders who seemed very sweaty. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to but I cannot remember where it was. Unfortunately being the Dolomites this doesn’t narrow it down much. I’ve been searching Google Earth and Street View and I think it might be the Sella Towers. I’m off to the Dolomites skiing in a couple of weeks. Does anyone know if it’s possible to ski to the Sella Towers as I won’t have a car this year? We’re staying in Corvara but I can get anywhere on the Superski circuit.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@IainMcT, The sella towers are at the top of the Sella Joch. A lovely climbing area, but not on a plateau. You get a lot of cyclists and motorcycles at the top of the pass. You may be thinking of the area now referd to as the Messner slabs. Was the route in the Fanes group? UKlimbig give this description how to get there.
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Crag features
The South Face of Sasso delle Nove, perched above the lunar landscape of the Fanis Plateau, is without doubt the most surreal crag in the Dolomites. The large face, which is almost completely devoid of features, is often referred to as the 'Messner Slabs' after Reinhold's classic route that takes the middle of the face direct.
The exceptionally compact rock gives perfect friction climbing but does make gear placements few and far between - expect some big runouts on all the climbs here. The approach to the face is rather long and tiring with many parties choosing to bivvy under the face or at the nearby Rifugio (Ücia) Lavarella. Those that do make the effort to get to this unique crag will be rewarded with almost certain solitude.
Approach notes
The face is usually accessed from either the village of Badia Abtei to the west, or from Rifugio Pederu, to the east. |
Rockfax gives another description https://rockfax.digital/guides/crag.php?id=978
It looks a magnificent route and I would like to have a go next summer
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| IainMcT wrote: |
| Many years ago I spent three weeks rock climbing in the Dolomites. We climbed an incredible rock tower and a nearby Reinhold Messner route on an adjacent rock face. This was in the summer. It was at the top of a plateau with a very steep road that went in for several miles through forest to reach it. There was a refuge / restaurant at the top and dozens of very fit cyclists clad in lycra who didn’t seem to sweat and lots of touring motorbikes ridden by leather clad riders who seemed very sweaty. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to but I cannot remember where it was. Unfortunately being the Dolomites this doesn’t narrow it down much. I’ve been searching Google Earth and Street View and I think it might be the Sella Towers. I’m off to the Dolomites skiing in a couple of weeks. Does anyone know if it’s possible to ski to the Sella Towers as I won’t have a car this year? We’re staying in Corvara but I can get anywhere on the Superski circuit. |
Hi Iain,
I think you probably did a route or routes on the first Sella Tower, it is on a plateau with Sassolongo behind, and there was a refuge and hotel there back in the day. The hotel has now been replaced by a luxury establishment for the rich, not sure if the refuge is still there. The old hotel was a great place, bit like the old Kingshouse before it was demolished.
The first tower has a number of easy routes, but the second tower, next door has an outstandingly Messner route called the North west face direct, graded V1. Messner did it with his brother before he died, and it is indeed a spectacular route. You get amazing views of this Messner route from the first Sella Tower. I was enticed to do the route by the same view you no doubt had. I would describe it as "not an easy day out..." There is also a fairly straightforward traverse of all 3 towers which is worth doing.
Re skiing there, you can't because the 3 towers are a 20 min uphill walk, you could skin up possibly, but great views of them if you take the basket lift through Sassolongo. Hope you enjoy seeing them again.
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Thank you so much. I’ve posted on a climbing forum too and yes it was definitely the Sella Towers. I probably wasn’t describing it correctly as a plateau but it was thirty years ago. We also climbed that Messner route. I found that any route climbed by Messner could easily have at least one grade added. It was an absolutely amazing climb although we had to solo the last pitch due to an approaching storm accompanied by torrential rain and lightening. Not too bothered about going right up to it but if I can ski close enough to see the towers that would be good.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@IainMcT, We skied at Canazai a few years ago and the transfer bus came up Grödnertal and over Sella Joch. If you go that way you will see the towers. Mind you it was a narrow corridor through towering snow banks either side of the road so you may not actually see over them
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| IainMcT wrote: |
| Thank you so much. I’ve posted on a climbing forum too and yes it was definitely the Sella Towers. I probably wasn’t describing it correctly as a plateau but it was thirty years ago. We also climbed that Messner route. I found that any route climbed by Messner could easily have at least one grade added. It was an absolutely amazing climb although we had to solo the last pitch due to an approaching storm accompanied by torrential rain and lightening. Not too bothered about going right up to it but if I can ski close enough to see the towers that would be good. |
Good effort on finishing the Messner, and it was a hard route. You can ski quite close to the towers, I have some good photos of them from a previous ski trip. DM if you want one, it shows all the towers and the Messner route.
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Climbing on the Sella towers is getting harder. Not the actual climbing but getting there. The area is now so popular in the summer that it means parking anywhere within 3 kms (or so it seems) is impossible and even getting onto one of the busses is very difficult.
At the top of the Coffin lift is the Toni-Demetz Hutte from which a number of long grade III and grade IV climbs up both the Langkofel and the oposite side. A traverse of the Daumen and fünffinger Spitze (I love that name) is a classic route but you have to get a move on if you want catch the lift back again. My Wife and I will try just the fünffinger spitze this summer - if we can get into the carpark.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Apparently it used to be a run, perhaps as recently as the 1990s ? It one of the many ski runs in the Dolomites that existed in the 1970s but are now no longer part of the system and have no snowmaking. I can think of quite a few others
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@IainMcT, I’ve enjoyed that Messner route too. From what I remember it felt like E1 5b with some long run outs?
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| johnE wrote: |
Climbing on the Sella towers is getting harder. Not the actual climbing but getting there. The area is now so popular in the summer that it means parking anywhere within 3 kms (or so it seems) is impossible and even getting onto one of the busses is very difficult.
At the top of the Coffin lift is the Toni-Demetz Hutte from which a number of long grade III and grade IV climbs up both the Langkofel and the oposite side. A traverse of the Daumen and fünffinger Spitze (I love that name) is a classic route but you have to get a move on if you want catch the lift back again. My Wife and I will try just the fünffinger spitze this summer - if we can get into the carpark. |
I did the five fingers a few years ago, much easier than the Messner route, but great position. Quite a few in situ thread belays then, probably bolts now. No probs parking then, I wonder if it's not so bad out of school hols?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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We attacked the thumb a few years ago. Provide you get to car park at the bottom of the lift you can park up. If the weather is a bit dodgy then the city of rock sport climbing area is available. Friends did the full traverse and missed the lift down. They did not enjoy the walk down. The main point about these routes is not the technical climbing but route finding and getting a move on. 300m is a fair bit of climbing.
Those route on the Messner slabs look interesting. I may spend a night in the hut at the bottom and have a go in August.
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