Poster: A snowHead
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(Just waiting to be allowed to post photos directly off my computer - I'll update the post later )
In a nutshell, a lovely resort with some fabulous conditions for both alpine and cross-country skiing. I'll try and pad out the last 10 days below.......
So, having been away to Tignes/VDI with MiniCF for the Feb half term break, I was really looking forwards to some quality time with my partner - who has returned from her time at sea, and really likes the outdoors, but not too many people . Being Swedish, she has no burning need to visit the motherland, but it does seem to tick the boxes for what we as a couple like for a winter holiday. After some deliberation, we selected Åre, and specifically the Bjornen area, as it suited her skiing ability more than the main Åre By section - and it also plonks you right on the edge of the groomed and pleasant wooded trails of the XC Arena.
Having had a monster of a week at work, with little packing time, it did lead to a somewhat early start on the Saturday to get from Bristol up to Heathrow for the BA flight to Stockholm. As discussed in other chats, BA do seem to be somewhat more accommodating when it comes to baggage, and as such there were no issues with the XC skis, or in fact my 'modest' carry on either.
Upon arrival in Stockholm we did our usual, and avoid the much advertised (and overpriced) Arlanda Express - and elected for the Flygbussarna to get us to the Central Station, where we had a pleasant dinner with OH's brother in the Italian joint (Vapiano) outside the front door, before heading back into the station for the Night Train up to Åre. As OH tends to eschew the finer side of life , we were booked in a 6 berth couchette. As you can see from the picture, its a little 'stark' and next time I'd probably elect for a compartment.
But, it was functional, and with some broken sleep - slight issue when they stopped to split the train, they turn off the power, and thus also my CPAP breathing/sleeping machine - we pulled up in Åre at just after 9am to blue skies and pleasantly cold temperatures.
We'd booked into SkiStar accommodation (Bear Lodge, Bjornen) and technically couldn't check in until 5pm (turns out it was ready from 11am on this day, but no drama). Checked in our bags at a 'convenient' storage at the station, which was a slight shock to the system at 400SEK! Turns out we found better options for our last day....... then headed through the station, stopping for a Korv and a coffee in the PostNord next door to the ICA (cheapest place in Åre), and out onto the (frozen ) lake to start the day with some XC skiing. Both of us are new to the 'toothpicks' and getting your legs going on a flat surface, with cut tracks, really helped to boost confidence - even if the tracks were partially blocked by the annual ice fishing contest!
The resort run a regular free bus service between the main areas - essentially using the main cable car as the 'bus station' and branching out from there. So we got the bus up to Bjornen where the whole check in, and lift pass collection process with SkiStar was all from automatic kiosks, and went very smoothly. And whilst the Bjornen lodge rooms are small, they are functional, and even better with direct access to the slopes as well from the ski lockers / boot room.
As others have pointed out in the past, there is an ICA Nara in the Bjornen resort, which is a bit like Tesco Express. The main 'big' ICA is in the Are train station complex, and there is also a big COOP slighty further out along the lakeside. The Nara is manned from 8am-2pm, however it is then only 'self service' from then onwards - but available 24/7, which requires 'BankID' as well as the ICAtoGo app on your phone (not sure you can get this working without a Swedish bank account) to access the store. Thankfully, my partner, who is Swedish has this so we were able to dip in when we required any little bits.
So, onto the good stuff - the snow!
Conditions were about as good as could be expected for this time of year. Pretty good base cover, well groomed pistes, all the lifts open, and cross country trails beautifully prepared. We were perhaps a little lucky with the weather in that we didn't see a cloud all week, and the temps ranged from a slightly bitey -20 at the lake first thing - although closer to -10 just a smidge up the mountain - rising up to just below freezing in the afternoons. As we booked for just before the Easter rush, the slopes were generally very quiet, with little to no queues at the lifts - the one exception being the T-Bar from the Saddle area back up to Bjornen at the end of the day. As we were leaving on Sunday we could see the influx of people coming in for the Easter period, so my guess it this week and next will have a few more souls on the slopes.
I won't bore you all with 'on day 1, day 2, day 3' type write up, but hopefully the pictures below tell the story of a good week away, and its a resort we'll definitely be coming back to. We're not really the apres kind of couple, so if that is your bag, I'm not sure Bjornen is quite your place, but the main square in Are By did have more of a 'traditional' ski resort feel with 'Mister French' looking like the place where people liked to hang out at the end of the day.
Top moments on the holiday........
Cross Country tracks to ourselves at some points with peace and quiet in the woods, and a nice 'gentle' run up to the old mine at Froa Gruva.
Stunning views from up on Areskutan, and from the lake looking up the mountains.
Spa afternoons (get in before 3pm) at the Holiday Club next to Are Station - great for tired legs.
Budget lunch of 2 Korv (hot dogs) and a Coke for 35SEK, so about £2.70 inside the Station (might have done this more than once, )
Things to watch out for.
Leaving baggage at the station (olcafe) on day 1 was very expensive. There are lockers in the station too that are slightly cheaper. On the last day elected to get a change room / bag room in Bjornen after check out for 100SEK (about £7), through the SkiStar hire shop. Then having packed up the skis we headed to the Holiday Club for a well earned spa with our bags, and they let us use the baggage room there for free, as a customer of the spa (about £20/£25, depending if you want the towel/gown/slippers option too)
All that was left on Sunday was to board the night train - which was very busy going home, so baggage space especially for the skis was hard to find.
Wake up, not exactly refreshed but rested in Stockholm at 5:30am, to get the bus back to Arlanda for the late morning BA flight back to Heathrow, collect car and head for Bristol.
If I wasn't tired enough when we got home, I was then coerced by club mates to go out on the roller skis for a gentle skate on Monday evening - somehow the car park of a decommissioned nuclear power station isn't quite the same as a groomed trail through the woods where we'd been not 30 hours earlier.
Any questions, please fire away - I'm happy to help where I can.
CF
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Tue 11-04-23 13:38; edited 1 time in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@Checkflaps, thank you for the fun report - hope you can add your photos!
XC on the lake must have been gorgeous, we went on a dog sled across and it was magic.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@Checkflaps, We were probably there around the same time. We had 10 magic days both on and off piste on perfect snow with almost no queues and few people anywhere most of the time. We try and go every year, usually a week in an apartment in Åre By, followed by a couple or three nights in The Granen hotel. If you give Skistar your mobile number they send a text message when your apartment is ready.
Last edited by Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? on Mon 10-04-23 17:45; edited 1 time in total
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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@Checkflaps, @thecramps, I don't recognise the fluffy white stuff on the ground.
Really need to go back as well. A skistar road trip would be immense.
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I'm hoping, as OH 'should' be on shift work with her sea time from June, we can start to plan for next winter (already ) - so I think we'll be looking from first week of March up to Easter.
I guess that's the good side of having someone work 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off.
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@Checkflaps - We are off to Are in two weeks. We are staying down by the lake but will travel to Bjornen as the nursery slopes look good there. The problem we have is that we ill travel over there on the bus in the morning and pick up all our gear but then we will have six pairs of snow boots with us. I can't see locker facilities anywhere (other than in the station) but you mention hiring a bag/change room for 100SEK. I looked on the website and on the App and can't find where you booked that. Do you have link to it or can you tell me how to find it.
Thanks for any help
Cheers
MrD
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