 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi (New) Friends - long-time listener, first-time caller. I think I've read every thread in these forums on mid-to-late April Alps skiing advice but haven't seen this exact flavor of question so appreciate any thoughts:
Group of 3 friends making a first-time Alps visit from U.S. Non-travel ski days are April 18 - April 25.
Flying into Geneva and will have a vehicle. Plan is to visit 2 - 3 resorts/areas depending on conditions.
Zermatt for 1-2 days is on the wish list. Not expecting much conditions-wise for our dates. Sunnegga/Rothorn and Gornergrat areas close April 21st.
Rest is flexible but leaning Val Thorens (or Val D/Tignes) based on what I have read here since open until May 5th. Still need to see what sidecountry/ski touring options are available in mid-to-late April as we are willing to work for turns.
Main question - would you priorize VT or another high-altitude resort/area on the early portion of trip for chances of better conditions and then catch Zermatt at the end just to ski the glacier? Or will the last "fully open" weekend in Zermatt (April 18 - April 20) be potentially worth skiing and save the more snowsure/late season resorts for the latter part of trip?
Snow is number one factor but we are definitely looking forward to the apres scene as first-time visitors in our late 30s, even though I am sure it will be low key compared to peak. Many of the big hotels in Zermatt close April 14 this year due to how early Easter is which leads me to think it will equally dead anytime after April 15.
Appreciate any comments or other things to consider. The season in my home-away-from (Montana) has been so sad this year.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Quote: |
| Zermatt for 1-2 days is on the wish list. Not expecting much conditions-wise for our dates. |
Well you're in for a bit of a surprise then @ATLsway!
The high altitude ski areas of the Alps close due to lack of visitor numbers, not because of lack of snow. Everyone isn't like we diehards on Snowheads - while lots of us just keep skiing until the snow runs out, 'normal people'  start getting golf clubs and windsurfers out in April and skier numbers die off.
Zermatt and Tignes/Val D'Isere/Val Thorens will be superb at the time of your visit - practically full snow cover, winter conditions at altitude and very quiet slopes. You may even get some fresh tracks/powder skiing, as well as being able to ski across the border into Italy for a pasta lunch (Cervinia ski area) from Zermatt. What's not to like? 
In terms of après ski, the most lively experiences (read dancing on tables in ski boots and pumping, singalong, Europop tunes with lively DJs) are to be found in Austria. The other alpine nations, including France, offer more low-key apres ski - which can still mean lively bars with dancing and nightclubs, just not on the level of Austria, which can be a bit wild. I haven't been to Zermatt at that time but have seen hordes of partying, orange-clad Dutch people in late April in Val Thorens, for the annual Dutch week. That has made the slopes a bit busier too.
Val D'Isere is a proper old town and is a good bet for fairly lively apres ski, even in late season. Tignes (being about 1000ft higher than Val D) has better runs back to resort level, will have better resort-level, snow cover and has a thigh-burning, snow-sure,vertical drop of about 4,000ft from the top of the glacier to the village. Although its modern architecture (1960s onwards) isn't to everyone's taste, access to the ski slopes (particularly from the areas of Val Claret, Le Lac and Lavachet) is easy and excellent. You can ski back to close to most accommodation. Other bits of Tignes are more out on a limb and may be a bit too quiet for you in terms of bars and restaurants.
Back on to Val D, I've used this excellent guiding company (Alpine Experience) for off piste excursions:
https://alpineexperience.com/en/off-piste-requirements/
Their prices are excellent as you just book to join one of their daily, guided groups. They go in search of fresh tracks, or spring snow, every day of the season - hiking or skinning as necessary. I think they may do private guiding too - though that would be more expensive.
It all sounds like a fantastic trip. Go for it! The scale of the Alps' skiing - not to mention the views of the Matterhorn - may well blow your mind! 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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If I were coming all that way for just 6 days skiing, I would not want to waste any of it transferring between resorts.
And if I was to go skiing in one place in Europe as a one-off thing Zermatt wins every time.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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| Quote: |
| And if I was to go skiing in one place in Europe as a one-off thing Zermatt wins every time |
A first time US visitor to any mega-resort in the Alps is in for an absolute treat. Zermatt is indeed amazing for the Matterhorn views alone, but there'd be nothing disappointing about the skiing and scenery of the other areas being considered by the OP.
I agree they'd have a fantastic time in Zermatt alone. However, sampling the ski areas of two countries (three if they get to Italy too from Zermatt) would surely make it worth a day's commute in between and could turn a great trip into an absolutely fantastic one.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@ATLsway, can you move your dates a week earlier so more is open? If not, do Zermatt first so you can ski the whole resort until 21st and leave VT/VDI for the last few days. Conditions are a lottery at that time of year. Typically it’s icy in the morning and turning slushy during the day but there can also be some epic snowfalls and deep pow.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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You guys are legends! This is super helpful.
I voted for Austria (Ischgl) for the more lively party scene but one of my group had been there in college (summer visit) and has never been to Switzerland or France so I lost that vote. Coming from boring boring boring U.S. resorts apres, I am sure we will be happy regardless. The other 2 in my group this may be a "one-and-done" for awhile re: Europe trips whereas I plan to make this an annual thing if all goes well so was more flex on location.
Bobin - timing is super locked for us due to my job. I chase powder in Dec/Jan then go into a hole Feb 1 - Apr 15 before remerging for the search. Not ideal but it pays the bills! Did Chile for first time last summer in July and hope to add that to the rotation.
Zikomo - we've gone back and forth but think the drive will be scenic and our legs may appreciate a few hours off the hill.
This definitely helps us settle our ordering. Based on this I think we will add at least 1 day to Zermatt and just focus on one additional area/resort to cut down on further travel. Time to go read (or re-read) another hundred posts about VT vs Val D/Tignes!
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| Quote: |
| Time to go read (or re-read) another hundred posts about VT vs Val D/Tignes! |
Val Thorens is part of the 3 Vallees, which is the biggest ski area on the planet - 450 miles of pistes and over 200 lifts. BUT you will need to check the closing dates of the other ski areas - Les Menuires (in the same valley as Val Thorens), Meribel and Courchevel - to see what connections will still be open.
On the other hand, the connections between Val D'Isere and Tignes (and most of the ski area) will still be open for your trip. You'd not be disappointed by either of Val Thorens or Tignes/Val D'Isere.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@ATLsway,
Are you aware that Zermatt is a car free resort?
I'd advise choosing one resort & sticking there. If you want to try others then Geneva airport to Zermatt by train (there's a station in the airport & you have to get to Zermatt by train) & back, then either Val d'Isere, Val Thorens or Tignes by road - self drive or transfer bus.
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Kenzie - yes I was, though I have read that parking in Tasch and transferring via the train from Tasch -> Zermatt is not terribly inconvenient? We could shorten the car rental but doing the train x2 would certainly cut into our time. Definitely food for thought though.
Part of the idea of self-drive was to wander a bit and have time to take in the scenery or stop as desired between destinations. Will also make lugging bags, boots and skis for x3 people a bit more palatable vs. train I think.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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| Quote: |
| I have read that parking in Tasch and transferring via the train from Tasch -> Zermatt is not terribly inconvenient? |
Yes, it's very easy @ATLsway. Like all things Swiss, it's not particularly cheap though, as you have to pay for parking, as well as the train.
Are you aiming to stay in Zermatt, or have you considered Täsch as a base? It's a very low key place, with food and drink mainly limited to hotels. But accommodation can be a lot cheaper than Zermatt - even when factoring in a daily train trip to Zermatt. Best option of course, is to stay in Zermatt, which is just a fantastic town - despite having a McDonald's in the high street
Once you've had enough Big Macs, one of mine and Mrs MA's favourite mountain restaurants anywhere - with an amazing terrace and fantastic Matterhorn view - is at the top of Gornergrat Railway. It's actually a hotel, which we stayed at for two nights for our wedding anniversary a few years ago. Before that, we'd visited a couple of times on previous trips for lunch on the terrace. In my view, the view and location are worth the trip to Zermatt alone!
We got a good deal on the hotel at the time (5 years ago) but prices have increased significantly since due to the state of sterling and the strength of the Swiss Franc. As a result, Swiss prices nowadays can be rather prohibitive for UK visitors.
Here's Kulmhotel Gornergrat:
Keep us posted with your plans. We're looking forward to hearing about your trip
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Thanks MountainAddict!
We haven't looked much at staying in Täsch - we've got a healthy budget for the trip so wanted to get the full Zermatt experience. The strength of the dollar is helping in that regards too.
I looked (enviously) at the Kulmhotel Gonergrat but was concerned about the train access. It looks like you have to catch the train by 7pm to get back up for the night which conflicts a bit with the "experience the town vibes". Is what I've read accurate about access? I guess if you stop skiing around ~3 or 4 you still have a few hours to see the town before heading up.
I wonder how practical splitting our time would be with 1 or 2 nights in Kulmhotel and the 1 or 2 in the main area?
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| ATLsway wrote: |
| Still need to see what sidecountry/ski touring options are available in mid-to-late April as we are willing to work for turns. |
Do you have avalanche packs, OK with a bit of route finding for side country?
Do you have ski touring gear?
If you do have the cash then obviously a guide would maximise the options. But if just dabbling with some lift served off piste people can give you a few ideas.
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You know it makes sense.
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2 out of the 3 are fully set (avi packs + ski touring gear) and the third will be setup by the trip. Since we are still early on in planning (besides for dates/flight) I wasn't sure how viable it would be for our dates but sounds like we have a good opportunity to get a guide and get off piste.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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| mountainaddict wrote: |
| Val Thorens is part of the 3 Vallees, which is the biggest ski area on the planet - 450 miles of pistes and over 200 lifts. BUT you will need to check the closing dates of the other ski areas - Les Menuires (in the same valley as Val Thorens), Meribel and Courchevel - to see what connections will still be open. |
Les Men closes 19th April and Meribel/Courch 21st April I believe. Val T/Orelle open to May 5th.
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Poster: A snowHead
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| ATLsway wrote: |
| 2 out of the 3 are fully set (avi packs + ski touring gear) and the third will be setup by the trip. Since we are still early on in planning (besides for dates/flight) I wasn't sure how viable it would be for our dates but sounds like we have a good opportunity to get a guide and get off piste. |
The dates you are going is a good time high altitude touring. I would go with a Zermatt/Val D split personally - given you want to experience a bit of apres too.
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@ATLsway, I would stay in town for more action. You’ll get great views all day and from the Findeln mountain restaurants like Chez Vrony.
My fave hotel in Zermatt is Coeur des Alpes which is walking distance from the main lift
https://e.coeurdesalpes.ch/#about
A guided day is worth looking into if the conditions are good. But the classic route for the Schwarztour needs good snow
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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