Poster: A snowHead
|
So I've bought myself some skis, and I need some poles to go with them. I've only ever hired skis - and hence poles - beforehand. Is there anything at all to differentiate between poles, or do I just choose the cheapest?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
Cheap aluminium ones will be fine. Just get the right length
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
I don't go off piste (willingly) and I bought Leki poles as they have the "quick release" loops. However as I could never get the loops to release without risking dislocating something, I just took them off and just grip the poles. I rarely lose them as long as I pay attention...
I would prefer to be able to change the baskets for larger ones as then they would be a bit more useful when walking.
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
What differentiates pole are things like:
- Whether they are made of Aluminium, Carbon or Composite. Carbon Poles are much thinner, which gives less wind resistance and a slight "give" when planting, but are often much more expensive.
- The size and material of the handle (softish or hard plastic). You also used to be able to get a "Sword Grip".
- Whether there is a safety release on the strap
- Whether there is a slight forward angle to help with planting position ie. Not quite a straight pole.
- Whether adjustable or whether it comes with a Powder Basket
Despite all that, I would probably go for cheap Aluminium ones - much like you have always used. While Pole Planting still has its place in modern skiing, most of the time it's more of a "Pole Touch"....and with fast carved GS turns, planting the pole is not advisable.
Also, expensive Carbon Poles are very attractive to the casual thief - so need careful watching.
Last edited by You need to Login to know who's really who. on Wed 15-11-23 20:40; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
@James the Last, cheapest in the right colours
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
My komperdell WC carbon slalom poles are a thing of beauty, the swing weight is perfect, but they have never left the UK. I can certainly feel the difference in quality but it’s just another item to get lose/break or have stolen.
I’ve always used standard mid/low price aluminium poles on the mountain. If I’m going to be fussy the handle is important for me to have good grip and shape.
If you didn’t want anything fancy I’ve got a pair of barely used Salomon grey poles in a 125, bought when I was deciding between sizes, you can have for free.
|
|
|
|
|
|
@James the Last, it's very important that the colour either matches your skis, or your outfit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
@motyl, Leki poles screw off, as I and the ski tech in Fernie discovered a couple of seasons ago.
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
@joffy69, That’s interesting - I did try but clearly I need to apply more strength. I’ll have another go!
|
|
|
|
|
|
OMG at last! It seems that although the fitting is ridged, it's not a screw fitting, so as soon as I tried pulling as well as turning, it started to give way
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
motyl wrote: |
I don't go off piste (willingly) and I bought Leki poles as they have the "quick release" loops. However as I could never get the loops to release without risking dislocating something, I just took them off and just grip the poles. |
I don't understand this, do you mean to release the straps at chairlifts etc ?
You just press the top of the handle and it releases the little loop.
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
@Roguevfr, yes, thank you, that bit was quite nice to use, but for me the point of the Trigger S mechanism was to save my thumbs in the event of a bad fall. There’s a video showing how to get it to release manually which I tried to copy and nearly injured myself in the process. I decided I didn’t trust it and just stopped using the loops altogether which, as you say, are easy to detach
|
|
|
|
|
|
As you say, the loops detach very easily. The "manual" release isn't something you do- it's simply a release mechanism for preventing the jerk on shoulders etc by a trapped pole. Just because you can't easily release it "just to try it" bears no resemblance to the efficacy of the release under accident .
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
I just want something to go with the sparkly grey skis that @flocon made me buy.
Although, @Old Fartbag, less wind resistance sounds like a really good additional feature; how much extra should I pay for this?
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
@Roguevfr, I accept what you say is what I should expect to happen. At the moment I can't find the video I'm referring to which would demonstrate what I'm trying to describe.
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
James the Last wrote: |
Although, @Old Fartbag, less wind resistance sounds like a really good additional feature; how much extra should I pay for this? |
£120
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Wed 15-11-23 22:19; edited 1 time in total
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
If you're a normal piste skier, like 90+% of people any ski pole will do so I'd grab your ski gloves and get out to some shops, either here or out in resort and start picking some up and waving them around.
Getting the correct length is east, stand the pole upright, handle down and grip it in your fist just under the basket. You want your elbow to be a 90° bend.
From there I'd say the next most important criteria is how it feels in your hand. You'll pick one make/model up and it will just feel comfortable - but pick up another and it will just feel horrible, either texture, or having finger groves in all the wrong places for your hands.
From there it all becomes a bit of a gimmick and branding exercise. If you're just sitting to go up/sliding to go down you won't notice the few gram different between aluminium and carbon. If you buy Leki 'clip in' poles you either need to buy matching Leki gloves or adaptor straps - which are just one more thing to drop and lose. Also the more expensive your poles, the more likely your poles and skis are to catch the eye of the more light of finger...
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
I recently got hold of some carbon poles for £34 so can be found at reasonable price. The lighter weight is definitely a plus for me as long as they are balanced.
A word on length, I have come across an argument that the traditional way to judge correct pole length - ie turn pole upside down and grip below basket: correct length is when elbow is at right angle - is wrong and will inhibit an athletic stance (this will probably generate a popcorn thread but I will trial it this season and see what I think).
Might be worth getting adjustable poles and experimenting
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
Plenty of poles left on ski racks. Just take the ones you fancy, if they don’t suit just pop back and grab another pair.
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
motyl wrote: |
I don't go off piste (willingly) and I bought Leki poles as they have the "quick release" loops. However as I could never get the loops to release without risking dislocating something, I just took them off and just grip the poles. I rarely lose them as long as I pay attention...
I would prefer to be able to change the baskets for larger ones as then they would be a bit more useful when walking. |
If you want easily interchangeable baskets I would recommend "Goode" poles, or even just get the collets if your existing poles are the right diameter (will fit any straight pole of 10.4mm or 12.7mm)
I use the smaller piste baskets most of the time, but carry the bigger off-piste ones and switch when heading out the back - simply screw on/off the collet
They are US based, but I've bought baskets/collets from them twice with no problems
https://goode.com/pages/faq
Also, whilst appreciating the desire to have QR loops, I'm flabbergasted how many people don't know how to use their loops properly...
You should put your hand through the loop with it "above" your wrist so that if you're not holding the handle it hangs harmlessly from your wrist/ forearm.
Then when you grab the handle the loop is under your hand (which also means you can put pressure on the strap when poling)
If you let go of the pole it just falls away from your thumb and hangs from your forearm, thus preventing possible dislocation of your thumb.
I see (and know) many people having the straps effectively coming from under the wrist then down between the thumb and forefinger, so if you inadvertently (in a crash for instance) let go of the pole it's still between your thumb/finger and will easily cause dislocation.
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
Collet - a new word for me! The tip of the pole.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Type 'Custom Ski Poles' into Google.... I look forward to seeing the results!
|
|
|
|
|
|
@joffy69,
Not the tip of the pole. It is the attachment of the basket to the shaft.
Generally speaking these are now a standard size. However some baskets are easy to change and have a screw on/off fitting with the collet. Other baskets are simply "pressure" fitted onto the collet (using a big hammer).
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
@geoffers, I bought a pair of Goode carbon poles in 2002 and only retired them last year because I got a shiny fluo pair for xmas. So that's about 1,250 days use. The other nice thing about Goode is that all the parts are available as spares.
|
|
|
|
|
|
@geoffers,
How to use the straps on ski poles should be included in the first ski lesson together with how to use the bindings.
I used Goode ski poles for many years. I replaced the handles and straps and baskets but finally I had to buy new poles when the ice tips fell out because they were simply glued into the end of the carbon shafts.
I now have some Leki poles but I hate the Leki "trigger" system which "integrates" with Leki gloves because the gloves don't keep my hands warm.
|
|
|
|
|
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
|
@James the Last,
It is worth buying a good pair of ski poles. I had a pair of "Goode" carbon poles for over 15 years, in which time I had changed my skis many times.
It is an often an overlooked piece of equipment. Personally, I found that lightweight carbon poles improved my skiing because my pole plant timing improved because they have a lower "swing weight". Carbon poles also absorb some of the shock when you plant them into ice/hard packed snow, reducing "shock" injury in wrists/arms. Carbon also bends but regains it's shape after being bent, aluminium stays bent and eventually breaks (how many broken aluminium poles have you seen that have been thrown away?).
|
|
|
|
|
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
|
@welshflyer, @under a new name we'll have to start a Goode appreciation sub group...
I'm still using my (now very tatty) Goode composites from 1999 - replaced the original collets with push-fit baskets to the new screw-ons when I lost a basket.
Have just replaced the collets again when one broke so have now got sharp ice tips rather than the kinda round metal tips.
If the poles themselves ever actually fail I'll probably just buy some 12.7mm carbon fiber tube, as any straight CF or composite tube would do the job (something like this https://carbonfibreprofiles.com/products/2m-carbon-fibre-tubes?variant=40366232895524)
|
|
|
|
|
|
@geoffers,
The link to the "Goode" website would have been more useful had it included You Tube videos to show how to replace parts rather than simply trying to describe the processes.
It's a shame there it's a UK distributor. I assume that the postage, customs duty and other costs will add up and there will be a long delay for stuff to be delivered.
|
|
|
|
|
You know it makes sense.
|
@welshflyer, it's so simple that a YouTube is probably not necessary: they're just a tight friction fit so twisting or tapping them off (hammering against a bit of wood) works. Use a bit of washing up liquid to lubricate when refitting.
The ordering process was very quick : probably a bit more expensive than if you could buy locally, but I wanted them and it was still a lot cheaper than brand new (decent) poles
|
|
|
|
|
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
|
@geoffers,
Thanks.
It appears that their new "collet/ice tip" units will fit my very old poles and therefore I will be buying a pair with screw on baskets.
Does anyone want to buy some very expensive Leki poles?
|
|
|
|
|
Poster: A snowHead
|
snowheid wrote: |
I recently got hold of some carbon poles for £34 so can be found at reasonable price. The lighter weight is definitely a plus for me as long as they are balanced.
A word on length, I have come across an argument that the traditional way to judge correct pole length - ie turn pole upside down and grip below basket: correct length is when elbow is at right angle - is wrong and will inhibit an athletic stance (this will probably generate a popcorn thread but I will trial it this season and see what I think).
Might be worth getting adjustable poles and experimenting |
Paul Lorenz has a pretty good blogpost on shorter poles, the takehome from which is 'as you start to get higher edge angles, you should look at investing in a pair of telescopic or adjustable poles'. I use a pretty short pole on-piste, and adjustable poles are lovely when it comes to making sure I'm also equipped for those off-piste runs that involve long stretches of poling at the bottom: the last thing I want to be doing trying to pole out of the bottom of the Vallée des Avals, for example, using poles of the same length that I used for moguls or high-inclination turns on the pistes.
|
|
|
|
|
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
|
JayRo wrote: |
Paul Lorenz has a pretty good blogpost on shorter poles, the takehome from which is 'as you start to get higher edge angles, you should look at investing in a pair of telescopic or adjustable poles'. I use a pretty short pole on-piste, and adjustable poles are lovely when it comes to making sure I'm also equipped for those off-piste runs that involve long stretches of poling at the bottom: the last thing I want to be doing trying to pole out of the bottom of the Vallée des Avals, for example, using poles of the same length that I used for moguls or high-inclination turns on the pistes. |
I'm a strong believer in this. I have an excessive pole quiver of now only partially matched old tough Alu poles picked up for under £10 per pair on my travels (e.g. if I find some sword grips or some nice leather straps.) but now largely use adjustable poles with some incremental powder baskets.
|
|
|
|
|
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
|
I found some poles of the correct length (traditional method of measuring...) in a Cash Converters type of place. They are ancient alu Look poles. They have the older style large diameter flange on the top, which I understand was sized to be larger diameter than the average eye socket to help prevent an injury. Has that now been dropped? because I see poles of much smaller end flange these days.
|
|
|
|
|
You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
|
@JayRo, who is this Paul Lorenz guy? Just cos I'd never come across him. Interesting take, and he clearly truly knows his stuff.
I really like this image (if it works) the master and the pupil are broadly speaking doing the same things but there's such a difference
|
|
|
|
|
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
|
@JayRo, and that pole length article makes total sense. I don't ski usually with adjustable poles, and can't imagine I'd be bothered to adjust them per run (I do have a pair for touring) but I think he has a bundle of good points (well and clearly explained too).
|
|
|
|
|
You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
|
He takes it fairly to extreme mind you. 105cm is very punchy for moguls for a 180cm tall bloke. I thought I was being aggressive shortening my poles to around 120 (though I am a fair bit taller).
|
|
|
|
|
|
The "traditional" way to measure poles was usually done in a shop when wearing street shoes. Your feet can be nearly 10cm above the snow with modern equipment due to plates on skis and the lifters built into boots. I have gone up one size in poles just to be able to push off strongly.
|
|
|
|
|
|
under a new name wrote: |
@JayRo, who is this Paul Lorenz guy? Just cos I'd never come across him. Interesting take, and he clearly truly knows his stuff.
|
He is one of the "New Breed" of Pros, in the same mould as Joshua Duncan Smith and Tom Gellie.
|
|
|
|
|
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
|
rjs wrote: |
The "traditional" way to measure poles was usually done in a shop when wearing street shoes. Your feet can be nearly 10cm above the snow with modern equipment due to plates on skis and the lifters built into boots. I have gone up one size in poles just to be able to push off strongly. |
Horses for (literal) courses innit? When racing leverage out of the gate is the primary purpose of poles. For beginners/intermediates flatland pushing is the primary use, as people get more advanced they should almost certainly go shorter for technical improvement and accept that they have less leverage for poling.
I'd guess in addition to the well known ski carrying test, you can have a fair guess about how good a skier someone is by length of their poles.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dave of the Marmottes wrote: |
He takes it fairly to extreme mind you. 105cm is very punchy for moguls for a 180cm tall bloke. I thought I was being aggressive shortening my poles to around 120 (though I am a fair bit taller). |
I'm 175cm tall and regularly ride with 110cm poles (I find that 115 cm encourages me to stay too far from the snow in the turn), and frequently go as short as 105cm if I'm working on getting a lot (for my standards) of inclination or in moguls. I can well imagine that a much better skier than me could regularly use the same length even if 5cm taller.
under a new name wrote: |
I don't ski usually with adjustable poles, and can't imagine I'd be bothered to adjust them per run (I do have a pair for touring) but I think he has a bundle of good points (well and clearly explained too). |
I don't usually alter them between runs, just at the start of the day (often another quick adjustment after the first run), although it is nice to have the option to shorten them if I find myself a top of a mogul field, or to lengthen them for the sake of a long poling stint: it's probably something I do a couple of times every 3-4 days on the slopes
|
|
|
|
|
|