 Poster: A snowHead
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Hi all
So, me and the OH fancied something a bit different for a short break end of Jan into Feb. So we have booked 5 nights in Levi. We have always fancied Finland so thought why not. We aren't treating it as a ski trip per se due to the small ski area but more like a winter holiday where we will spend a few days doing other activities as well.
Just after some advice really from people who have visited Levi (and Lapland in general). We can't get direct flights into Kittila, so are flying into Rovaniemi and will drive the couple of hours. We fancy having a hire car anyway so no big issue there, but just wondering if anyone has done the drive before? Any tips? Very used to driving in Europe and in snow/ice in the Alps, but I imagine this will be a somewhat different drive!
Outside of a day or two on the fell skiing, can anyone recommend or give any advice on the other activities available in the area that are considered a must do? A big part of wanting to go to Lapland is a chance to see the Northern Lights. Obviously no guarantee and hopefully we will see them from our accommodation but are the tours worth it/increase the chances of seeing them?
We are self catering but will treat ourselves to a night out or two to eat. I've read that it's pretty expensive? Are we talking top end Alps prices or worse?
We might take the chance, considering the ski area isn't huge to partake in a couple of lessons to try and improve our techniques. Any recommendations? The mrs is also keen to try a bit of cross country so again, someone to show us the ropes with that.
Thanks all!
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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Been twice but was a while ago, ski area is much better now, when we went it was just the Olympic gondola and T bars, it’s way better now.
A lack of vertical but we really enjoyed the skiing, pretty varied, all slopes floodlit, incredible scenery, everything frozen, superb huts on the slopes with fires and forks so you could cook a sausage
1st time we went it was typical weather, you could sit outside if it was sunny, Temperatures about -6 but still with no wind
2nd time freezing cold, -34 in the village, your jeans would freeze, the moisture in your nose froze, it was unpleasant
Saw northern lights both times, 1st time stayed in a cabin with sauna in the woods , half board with meals at the crazy reindeer
2nd time Levitunturi Hotel, there was a large glass roofed room where you could watch the lights and you could request a call in the night if they made an appearance
Off the slopes we did the husky ride, ice fishing, reindeer farm and the incredible snow mobile safari racing across frozen lakes
Prices weren’t crazy but as I say it was a while ago, €5 a beer, restaurants were on the whole brilliant, the fish counter starter’s amazing, steaks and fish were the main offerings
Village was spotless, we flew direct to Kitilla with Ingram’s both times, yes we were beginners but now as seasoned skiers and used to European hyper resorts I’d still go back to Levi and it’s 40kms of piste in a heartbeat
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Gets very cold midwinter.
Take a hot jacket and plenty of layers.
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Personally I wouldn't spend any money on a specific Northern Lights tour. The NLs are pretty common in the winter, but so is thick cloud so you're no more or less likely to see them on a tour than if, on a clear night, you just take yourself somewhere a little bit away from the street lighting, e.g. to the edge of your resort.
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Spent Christmas in Helsinki during epidemic and then drove to Levi on boxing day. I think its about 3 hours from Rovaniemi to Levi. Worth looking at the route in advance as Waze took us on the back roads. Very few cars with heavy snow and some questionable roads made it the most terrifying 3 hour drive in a long time. Fortunately winter tyres with studs are mandatory on all cars (including rentals).
We used it as an opportunity to learn telemarking which was most enjoyable, but can also get cross country lessons as well. Snow biking also worth a try as is a husky safari. As you’ve got a car you may also get a pass that covers both Levi and Yllas. While expensive we found it cheaper then the alps. While you can buy number 3 beer from the supermarket , wine and spirits are only available from the state operated Alko which I seem to remember is based in the K Supermarket. Opening hours are also restricted so depending upon when your flight gets in you may want to find one in Rovaniemi before getting underway.
When we were there temperatures ranges from -40 to a relatively balmy -5. The frozen snow on the trees was spooky as well as spectacular.
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Late January/early February is not high season yet, so some or many of the slopes might be closed. This might have changed, though, since I don´t go that early anymore. The day is short and cold, so you may feel like keeping your skiing days short. Keeping your toes warm is imperative. Bring something to cover your face with, the winds can be heavy and you could easily have frostbite in your face. Bring the warmest jacket you have and lots of layers. The mountains are not high, but they can be absolutely brutal, even if it´s a resort. Drag lift tracks can get a bit difficult to maneuvre later in the day due to snow piling on them because of the wind.
Since you have a car, you could pop over to Ylläs (about an hour away by car) for a day to check out another mountain. It can be even windier, though. But if the weather is good, the slopes are even nicer than Levi and you could have a great day, and see more of Lapland.
Levi has an excellent cross country ski network. The tracks are very well marked and the maps are good. I would invest (maybe 10 euros?) in a paper map from the tourist info (behind the roundabout), so you don´t have to take out your phone if you need to look at the map. The phone battery will die very quickly in the cold weather. Bring a snack and a power bank. You can rent cross country skis in all the ski shops.
Prices are not terrible at all, pretty much the same as in the UK, I´d think. Salad 12 eur., hamburger meal 12-15 eur., all you can eat buffet 16 eur. An hour of private ski instruction for two is about 100 euros. Alcohol I think is expensive but can´t say what for example a pint would be.
Roads are in general well maintained, but in man vs. nature, nature wins. Snow, ice and wind can form deep and icy tracks on the roads. Studded tyres help on ice but are pretty much useless on snow. I think the roads are not salted to keep reindeer from coming onto the roads to lick the salt. They do come anyway, so you need to watch out for them. A relative of mine who was from Lapland always carried a large knife in the trunk in case he hit a reindeer so he could let the blood out, but I think you could just call 112 if that happened and have your reindeer steak at the restaurant instead.
Don´t leave filling the gas tank to the last minute, since gas stations are few and far between. Better safe than sorry, always be a step ahead and you´ll have an amazing holiday in a truly wonderful and unique place.
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I think everything will be open early February
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The other thing with salt is that it doesn't really work at very cold temperatures; you don't get enough depression of the freezing point to make it useful.
I've not driven where you're going, but mobile coverage on the highways is good in general (you can check - google it) and the terrain is more rolling hills than alpine passes, so driving isn't particularly challenging. Driving on snow with a vehicle designed for that feels odd at first but you quickly get used to it. I'd not expect masses of traffic either.
Cross country... everywhere in Finland has tracks for that. If they see an adult falling over the locals may assume you're drunk because skiing's like walking, but it's a great place for that.
Reindeer... not sure about up there, but "hirva" (Elk) come in at about 500kgs and can easily write off the biggest Volvo when they put a mind to it.
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I live in Helsinki and regularly visit Lapland. The drive from Rovaniemi to Levi is quite straight forward even in winter. Some sat navs and google maps suggest a really stupid route. The route you want to take is road number 79 on the western side of the Ounasjoki (Ounas River). When leaving the airport head towards the centre of Rovaniemi and make sure you cross the river before heading north. This is a wide A road that is well looked after. The road will very likely be completely white at that time of year (the compress the snow rather than trying to melt it with salt) but don't panic, studded tyres make driving fairly easy. Also there are no major hills or sharp bends on the 79 road. You can also check the state of the road in the road weather cameras here: https://liikennetilanne.fintraffic.fi/listanakyma/?list=cameraPictures®ion=19.
Cross country skiing or snow shoeing are good alternatives. You can see the trail maps here: https://www.infogis.fi/levi/?lang=en . The snow shoe route up to Katkätunteri is a good walk.
A good spot for northern light viewing is on the lake Immeljärvi (järvi means lake).
Levi has a huge range of restaurants and the food is not more expensive than the Alps - the wine certainly is though. A few places I like: Levi Brewery (https://levinpanimo.fi/) and Ravintola Pihvipirtti (https://www.hulluporo.fi/ravintolat/pihvipirtti/?tab=menu) and The King Crab house (http://www.kingcrabhouse.fi), Classic Pizza is a chain but pretty good and not so expensive - around €15 - €20 for a large pizza.
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We went to Levi about 20 years ago (so things may have changed) to visit our Finnish friends. They had booked rooms in the Crazy Reindeer (Hullu Poro). From what I remember it was lovely. Our friends had one of the bigger rooms which had it's own sauna - well you are in Finland! Hullu Poro can be booked direct from UK eg via Inghams/TUI which could make life easier.
Can't remember much about the downhill ski-ing but the cross county was amazing. The quiet in the trees was wow! Do get lessons because a gentle down hill slope s really frightening on x-country skis!
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