![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Poster: A snowHead
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Has anyone used Zardoz ? Is it any good or is there a better product please.
Very wet here in the PDS, and elsewhere too I am seeing.
Comments and recommendations gratefully received
Thanks
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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If your bases aren’t properly structured for wet snow, a fresh stone grind will help you more than any wax or overlay. Zardoz is ok but doesn’t last long at all.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Thank you.
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Good for a few runs and then re-apply….however, I’ve no idea if it compromises ski bases in any way with overuse.
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![](templates/subSilver/images/full_size.gif) Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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crosshatch wrote: |
If your bases aren’t properly structured for wet snow, a fresh stone grind will help you more than any wax or overlay. |
+1 Fresh structure will help more than any wax. It's why I have a structure tool in my tuning kit. I do a little every time I work on them.
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You can only stone grind certain number of times so I'd avoid doing that unless you absolutely have to. Could use brass brush to open the structure then wax as normal every three days and apply zardoz daily or as needed?
I just came back from PdS. Gutted I missed the fresh dump on Sat.
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@sibhusky, what structure tool do you use?
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SkiVisions https://www.slidewright.com/skivisions-ski-base-flattener--structuring-tool.php
There are other tools that press in a pattern rather than cutting with a ruby stone, but it needs to be redone, I understand. I just do a few swipes of this on the affected areas, then run a cutter down the base to cut off the tops of the peaks. (This helps with glide.) I haven't stone ground a ski in years.
The other thing I've noticed in spring is that playing with different types of wax (soft, graphite, universal, fluoro, etc.) and switching to newly waxed skis after lunch is not near as effective as just waiting for the freeze/thaw cycles to produce the right size corn snow. Barring that, it's structure. Get at the right angle to look at your bases and see where they are smoothed, without any lines. Scratch that part up with SOMETHING. Then run a metal brush down a few times to clean out the existing structure well.
Spring is tough -- cold and rock hard in the AM, slowly softening, slush by end of day. Shadows crossing the trail. One wax is not going to handle all you'll run into. So I use structure and tactics, picking my trails and lighting conditions throughout the day.
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