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Ischgl recommendations please

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Heading to Ischgl for the first time at the end of March. Would be interested in any recommendations, but in particular we're looking for recommendations for:

1. ski schools/instructor (we're hoping to get two 3 hour (morning) private lessons over the week)
2. the best piste runs/circuits for intermediates (e.g. are these 'Smuggler circuits' worth doing?)
3. restaurants (both on/off the mountain)
4. apres venues
5. anything else (e.g. is the toboggan run on Monday/Thursdays worth doing?)

Thank you in advance!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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1) no idea

2) Piste recommendations (in order of my personal preference):
- 5 (red)
- 80 (red)
- 14a (black)
- 7 (red)
- 70 (red)
- 4 (black)
- 40 (red)
- 35 (black)

3) Restaurants recommendations:
- Schmuggler Alm (at the end of the 80 in Samnaun Dorf)
- Vider Alp (a bit below Idalp, meat from grill)
- Pardatschgrat (if the weather is nice and you can sit outside)
- Alp Bella
- Schwarzwand (pizza's!)

4) Apres:
- Trofana Alm
- Champagnerhütte
(forget about Schatzi unless you want to join 100.000 men staring at 5 paid girls dancing on a stage)

5) Yes, the toboggan run is well worth it! Don't forget decent winter boots (not ski boots!), helmet, facemask and goggles. Ischgl Skyfly is also fun, but expensive...
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As far as I'm aware there is only one ski school in Ischgl . Though we always used a Samnaun ski school as it was cheaper and we got on well with the instructors.

By the end of March the main thing to be aware off when choosing which runs to ski is the position of the sun so you are skiing runs when they are not too icy or soft.
Generally speaking the Samnaun runs face South to South east ish so you really want to be skiing them before lunch and Ischgl runs are a bit more North West and West so you can ski them later in the day.
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Great thank you both! T Bar - which Samnaun ski school did you use? We're interested in any in the area and cheaper would definitely be a bonus!
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@Daux28,
We used this one
https://www.schneesportschulesamnaun.ch/en/
Used them for about six years but it was a while ago now.
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1. There is only one ski school on Ischgl.
2. Pretty much everywhere is intermediate territory.
3. No idea about restaurants in the village but on the mountain you must try Alp Bella.
4. Apres venues Trofana Alm, Kitzloch Niki's Stadl, the Nevada Alm, Freeride.
5. Never done the toboggan run so can't comment.
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Daux28 wrote:
Heading to Ischgl for the first time at the end of March. Would be interested in any recommendations, but in particular we're looking for recommendations for:
2. the best piste runs/circuits for intermediates (e.g. are these 'Smuggler circuits' worth doing?)


The smuggler run is worth doing, once. Food/drink prices in Samnaun are always a shock, then end of the run if flat and can get slushy, and the double-decker gondola is slow and unpleasently rammed.
Also worth doing once is a version of the run to the other end of Samnaun (60/61). Bit of a pain as you need to catch a (frequent/doesn't stop at lunch time like a French one) bus from the end of the run to the gondola but is actually a nice run and usually empty because of the bus.
Outside that there aren't really any specific circuits - but the resort is well linked so you just ski around and jump on lifts without needing to look at the map (few if any lifts that only offer you blacks off the top) until someone says coffee?/lunch?/apres?

Daux28 wrote:
3. restaurants (both on/off the mountain)

Not sure any on the mountain are actually bad, even the self service ones. Highlights for us are the half chicken at Alp Bella (M lifts in the bottom left of the map) and Vider Alp (out the bottom of the Idalp bowl, at the top of the 2b red down to the C4 chair).

In town pre-Covid the Kitzloch was always good (not been back to Ischgl since the Kitzloch changed hands 2/3 years ago). We always enjoy "Heidi's dungeon" - or the Gasthof Alt Paznaun as they prefer you to call it (next door to the Burger King in the building with skiing beavers painted on it (don't ask me!), entrance just down the side of the building then go downstairs).

In fact most places are fine in town to the point it's easier to just say do NOT eat in Stuva. Had a private table there for my 40th as they made a lot of claims about themselves. Based on the claims the food was just OK and more presentation gimicks than good food. High/low light was the dessert souffle. The first one came out and never made it to the table as the matradee refused to serve it (that front of house staff wre excellent). The second one was served - and you could feel the undisolved sugar in that one so no idea how bad the first one was!

Daux28 wrote:
4. apres venues

To be honest, close your eyes, spin on the spot and walk into the one you're facing. If you don't like it, walk out and walk into the next one.

It doesn't matter what your idea of a good apres bar is, Ischgl will have one that fits. And that's all the way from the seedy end (strip clubs and FreeRide, which manages to be creapier than the strips clubs), through sausage town (Shatzi), different degrees of boot dancing (Kitzloch/Niki's Stade/Trofana Alm), I'm to old for pace this (Kushtall), I'm Russian, see my money! (Guxa/the champain bar), to arm chairs and a roaring fire (Trofana Royal hotel bar).
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@Mjit , How difficult is that blue 60 run into Samnaun? Keen to go down at least once but partner is on the slightly nervous side of intermediate. Any other comfortable blue or easy red runs outside of Idalp?

We also love on mountain apre so are keen to try Paznauner Taja. How steep are the red runs to it from Idalp and the run home to the middle station? Thanks for any info
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Manning18 wrote:
@Mjit , How difficult is that blue 60 run into Samnaun? Keen to go down at least once but partner is on the slightly nervous side of intermediate.


From memory blue 60 isn't difficult at all and there always used to be a little bar/restaurant at the bottom of at least the 'keep right' arm.

Quote:
Any other comfortable blue or easy red runs outside of Idalp?


I don't think there are any real 'fake' colours on the Ischgl map. Blues are all either flat or not too steep and motorway wide while blacks are steep or steep and narrow. None of the Alpe d'Huez "Worlds longest black" which is at best a burgundy for a very short section, an easy red for a quater, and a green for the rest!

For an easy start to the day B6 or B5 will get you onto the short blue where most initial teaching is done. Or ski down under the B2/B3 chairs and take C1 and C2 to blue 23, another nice warm-up run.

Probably the only 'trick' on the map is the red 37 run out of Paznauner Thaya that has a long flat section you can either skate or take a flat drag lift (that you keep overtaking).

Quote:
We also love on mountain apre so are keen to try Paznauner Taja. How steep are the red runs to it from Idalp and the run home to the middle station? Thanks for any info


None of the red runs home are especially hard in themselves, going super wide when they are steep and also having chicken loops to avoid the steep section. In fact do them early in the day and you might call them blues.

The problems come later in the day and come down to numbers and altitude. End of the day most of the mountain tries to ski home, including tired legged blue skiers so the steeps and chicken tracks mogle up and get covered in bodies. Then down the bottom you're often down to the freeze/thaw level so they can switch between sluch and ice as you go in and out of the sun.

To be honest we've never really done the 'on mountain' thing in Ischgl. If you want it then either Paznauner Taja as you said or you get some outside Idalp. What most people do is ski down and straight into a bar. Certainly if you ski down 1a/take the Pardatschgratbahn down it's skis off, dump in a rack, walk straight into Schati and get a beer. But what we actually do is ski down, straight to accomodation to dump skis/jump in the shower/change into evening clothers, then directly back out to apres/dinner/someone saying "Anyone fancy another beer?" after dinner and everyone replying "Actually I'd just like to go to bed. What time is it? Oh 10pm." Smile
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I like Red 7 (not so peaceful now that they've put a fast 8 chair to get back to replace a 2 man chair that meant a much more convoluted return - but it makes it much easier to loop)

I like the M area in Samnaun - all easy reds with no lift queues. The skiing in Samnaun is generally a bit easier and less crowded.

Smugglers run... well, yes it's good and is quiet, but getting back is a pain - long flat at the bottom and a slow cable car. The other run down is good, but as has been pointed out you are left with a walk to a bus, or the bar at the bottom provides a taxi if you buy something in duty free in the shop underneath (or did 5 years ago - the last time I did that run)
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Great thanks guys.

Any idea how strong the winds would have to be for the lifts back from Samnaun to close? Keen to try it this weekend, home runs might help as the weather looks bitterly cold! But wouldn't want to get stuck there obviously. Think they're 15-20km

I must give that "Heidi's dungeon" a try Mjit, looks interesting and well located for us
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Manning18 wrote:
Great thanks guys.

Any idea how strong the winds would have to be for the lifts back from Samnaun to close? Keen to try it this weekend, home runs might help as the weather looks bitterly cold! But wouldn't want to get stuck there obviously. Think they're 15-20km

I must give that "Heidi's dungeon" a try Mjit, looks interesting and well located for us


They have to be pretty strong. I think I’ve seen the orange one close with the others open (3 ways back if I remember). There was a warning on display.

The top of those Ischgl ridges can be very windy and very cold.
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Manning18 wrote:
Any idea how strong the winds would have to be for the lifts back from Samnaun to close? Keen to try it this weekend, home runs might help as the weather looks bitterly cold! But wouldn't want to get stuck there obviously. Think they're 15-20km


I've done many trips to Ischgl and never got/been able to get stuck on the wrong side of the ridge. In general they take the risk-adverse approach and won't open the cross ridge chairs in the morning if they don't think they'll be able to keep them open to get everyone home.

Quote:
I must give that "Heidi's dungeon" a try Mjit, looks interesting and well located for us


Nothing like walking down into a basement to find yourself in an alpine chalet, with windows and curtains over pictures stuck to the wall Smile
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@Mjit, Not sure they'd close the chairs up to the ridge specifically to stop people skiing over as that cuts off some of the main runs back to Idalp. Those two chairs would close if it's too windy on the Ischgl side. One has the non-bubble chair option (with holes in the backs of the seat) to allow operation in higher winds.

I do recall (may be my memory though) warnings on the Samnaun side that lifts will be closing. There are 3 routes back so they'll probably close at different times.

Did you know that there's a pylon on one of those chairs up from Idalp that is shared with another 8 seater crossing its path: that's the highest capacity chairlift pylon...anywhere.

Did you also see that remake of Downhill (the original was better) with Will Ferrell where Ischgl was featured - specifically that area of mutliple crossing chairlifts

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/ski/articles/ischgl-ski-resort-filming-locations-in-will-ferrell-downhill-film/
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Might have to watch that film now!

I thought Serfaus also featured, and found this with more details.

https://www.tyrol.com/blog/b-bits-pieces/downhill-the-filming-locations
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
We used to escape the boisterous apres, to have a break from the Kuhstall, in a small bar quite near to the Dungeon. Same side of the road more towards the tunnel. We called it the Quiet Bar. Not sure if it's still there anymore.
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Oh - I like 2B.. the "Beast" - generally nice and quiet with the odd tree.

Lift B3 is the "holy" chair lift and I think it's that one that crosses C1 to have the high capacity pylon.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Jagerbull wrote:
We used to escape the boisterous apres, to have a break from the Kuhstall, in a small bar quite near to the Dungeon. Same side of the road more towards the tunnel. We called it the Quiet Bar. Not sure if it's still there anymore.


For a quite beer we'd either hit the Kiwi Bar (slip up the road in front of the Golden Eagle, towards the church and it's just up on your right) or one of the hotel bars (Hotel Post good/Torfanna Royal better/Hotel Madeline if you prefer the nouveau riche look). Assuming you mean near Heidi's dungeon I'd guess that's one of the 2 in the first little square you come to after passing the Dorftunnel entrance going away from Heidi's. I know I've been in at least one of them and it was quiet - we just thought we'd missed the apres party! Smile

As we're covering apres escapes:
- Keep going from Heidi's, past the quiet bar square and to the next square (we're talking 25/50m each time here, not miles!) and the Konditorei gets some good trade from us - and will also do you a very good cup of tea.
- If you can find it (it's tucked in a back street up on top of the hill) Cafe Salner is another good post ski/pre apres caoffee/cake stop. 12 Brunnernweg. Down the road between the church and Hotel Jagerhof, keep right at Sonn Wend Hof, and follow the road to the end, past the cows.
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@Mjit, I had a look and I think its the Pub Ischgler Einkehr.
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@Mjit, For a quieter venue there's the Golden Eagle pub. No disco oompah but also able to have a conversation without bellowing down someone's lughole Laughing . https://www.golden-eagle.at/
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halfhand wrote:
@Mjit, For a quieter venue there's the Golden Eagle pub. No disco oompah but also able to have a conversation without bellowing down someone's lughole Laughing . https://www.golden-eagle.at/


Depends on the time of day/evening. True I've never heard any oompah or Euro pop in there - but they do crank up the rock from time to time.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
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Would you find anywhere showing 6 Nations or the league Cup Final on Sunday?
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